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As I mentioned at the start of this thread, your knowledge and experiments were of great help in getting me on the right track. Thanks again. Here are 4 shots of the light hanging 32" above a piece of reflective insulation. If you look toward the edges of the pics, there's a 72" wood ruler...

Aluminum is pretty soft. I used an 80 tooth 10" carbide blade on the table saw.

Like many here, I ordered the COBs, holders and lenses from Jerry at Kingbrite. Go to their site and you'll see the 100mm lens. It's a generic lens that can fit easily over the CXB3590s and holder.

I plan on growing in my basement, so added heat won't be a problem. In fact, I may have to add some heat in the winter. When I tested the light, the drivers didn't seem to get very warm at all but I didn't measure them.

No shear, sliding table saw - the aluminum sheet stock was only 1/10th". I do a bit of woodworking, so the tools I needed were mostly at hand. The new tools I got for the job were an optical punch since there were so many holes to lay out and a 2-3/4" hole saw for the holders to get attached...

Best looking DIY light I've ever seen.

Yesterday I posted a question about how to apply thermal grease. Thanks again for all the advice. This is the now finished light, front and back. 6 each CXB3590s mounted on Arctic 64s with holders, 3 each MW HLG-120H-C1050As, a 12V power supply and a 6 channel fan speed control. There are 3...

Actually, I watched this video a few days ago and it's illustrative of why I asked about the "right" way to do this. Ignoring the screening method which shows a square of grease that looks to my eye to be more like icing a cake than applying thermal grease, the video shows the guy snaking a...

Evidently, there are many differing ways to apply thermal grease when attaching an LED to a heatsink. Dots, x's, lines, full coatings (thin or otherwise), push down, let the screws in the holder do the pushing, etc. The info I've found (more often in relation to CPUs) lacks consensus as to...

Perhaps you have 2 possibilities using the next size up machine screw: re-tap to next larger size or, since aluminum is pretty soft, just try the next size machine screw and see if it will be OK in your oversized hole. Your build looks great.

You're killing me. Look again at the blades on the cord in your picture (which I finally realized a few posts ago was indeed what this was all about), you'll not see that plug into any 120V outlet. Perhaps Mr. Greengenes may have thought that the cord in your picture was already wired to your...

Cut off the female plug from your cord and wire it the driver. If you really don't get this, I think it best to call in an electrician.

Sorry, but I don't have one of these controllers. I'm assuming your reading the outlets on the CAP, yes? If it's wired into a 240V circuit, that's exactly what you should get. But this is not where you plug in the trigger cable. Looking at the instructions, you are expected to make-up a...

Then your good to go.

Thanks.

Look at a spec sheet for the 185H family As you will see, the brown is line for both 120 and 240 and the blue is neutral for 120 and line for 240. That said, if I understand your post, you can no longer use your C.A.P. controller since it's a 120 device. The cord in your picture is not...

1400 posts read but obviously not completely understood. I'd like to know if this is a proper configuration: 4 each CXB3590 72V 3000K run by 1 each HLG-185H-C700A and 2 each CXB3590 72V 6500K run by 1 each HLG-120H-C1050A. I'm pretty sure I saw this from the super Supra but I can't seem to...