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I quite take the point that there's a danger the LED forum could turn into an LED advertising forum. Perhaps there are enough posters like you who will push back hard enough so the advertising stays within some sort of acceptable limits. I hope so. Some of the other forums I went to seeking...

Optic Lighting comes close to what you want. (LINK) And given all your myriad questions on building your own light, I would recommend that you buy rather than build. Too many weed spoil the COB.

From Newegg (LINK).

Great creative re-use of an old light. Glad the cut went easy. Riggers would say to have 4 equal length legs from your central hanging point going to four equally spaced attachment points as measured from the center of the load. Find the light's center of gravity when it's on your workbench...

How did you decide on 145F? In the high heat crash test that Supra is doing, and reporting on in the thread on "Heatsinks for DIY LED lamps", he notes "almost stabilized, heatsink above 55C (131F) not good". Maybe a lower threshold would be better?

Thanks for all the feedback. I read the articles you posted, Salmonetin. And Atomizer, fail-unsafe doesn't sound as good as failsafe, does it?

I use CPU coolers for my DIY light. To protect the COBs in the event of a failure of the 12V DC power supply for the fans, I'd like to add a relay switch so that if the PSU fails, the COBs won't get power. I know little about these relays. Would something like that shown below be a good...

May I suggest you spend a bit of time studying this thread as well as the thread called "Heatsinks for Europe"? I think you'll find all the answers you need. There also may be someone in the "Heatsinks for Europe" who can better help with "alimentation". I think you want to power your fans...

The idea of a heatsink is to put a sufficient amount of surface area at the point and immediately around where the heat is being generated. A flat piece of aluminum, with no fins, is not that. So if you end up with heatsink in your design (and this thread has many discussions of which heatsink...

Perhaps in English, the word is sheets - as in pieces of flat aluminum. If so, there have been some DIY builds using aluminum square stock (which could be made from sheets - or bought as square stock) cooled by a small blower at one end. Not sure if there would be enough cooling for high...

So let's say the dip in the middle of the heatsink in Slitlos's picture is .75mm - right in the middle where a COB would be mounted. And let's also say that a properly applied grease layer is .25mm. So right in the hottest part of the COB, there's a 1mm thick layer of TIM. That much is OK...

Supra certainly knows a lot more about this than I do, but I wouldn't be putting my COB on the one pictured in Slitlos' picture. As I recall, Supra was spending hours getting to a mirror like finished but, through testing, determined that that level of effort produced negligible benefit. I...

It's gonna be LOUD so you'll find out if you've really got a pair. But you'll be fine with your new sharp carbide blade - slow and steady wins the race.

WHOOO indeed. Sounds like a good plan. DD9's example is an excellent one to follow. Two small suggestions: think about dimming and if you want to put in a thermal relay, do it during the initial build. As to the latter point, it will be easier to do it at the start and, if you're like me...

As Scotch said, there are definitely stops on the adjustment screw. The adjustment screw is a small phillips head. Is it possible you're not getting the screwdriver properly positioned or that the head on your screwdriver is too big for the screw? Good luck.

Double sided tape will work after a fashion, but you're right, some sort of mounting provision would be good. By the by, I used some old fluorescent ballast wiring as the wire for the COBs in my project. I had swapped a magnetic ballast for an electronic one and had saved the old wires - 18...

VERY nice. I love the neatness and symmetry. Not to mention that it will work so well.

Sorry, I wasn't clear. I'm saying that if you just move your existing shrouds to butt against the fan, you won't cover the end of the run. I'd cut new shrouds that went from edge of fan to end of heat sink and mount them tight to the fins. Perhaps the same machine screws that hold the drivers...

Another quality DIY build. I think Supra's suggestion about how to use the shrouds is worth following though I think the shroud should cover all of the COBs to the end of the run.

Recently finished a light using 3590s on holders and used Alpine 64 Plus coolers (LINK). The 50-23 Ideal holders (LINK) fit fine on the base of these without any overhang. The pictures of the Arctic 11s suggested to me that the holders would not fit without overhanging. Here's a cut sheet...