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Yep, it won't last long in sand. Sand saturates easily but once fully dry may become water repellent. It would not make a good hydroponic medium. Sand also, of course, has no nutrients. Transplant the thing into some good quality, loose, friable potting soil ASAP.

Just so you know, my tapwater (MOST of the time) is <140ppm, since it will not usually cause an indication on the Truncheon. Once in a while, it'll light the first LED on the scale (140-200ppm? I'd have to go look at the thing). This is from an email I got from Canna the other day: Canna...

no problem, andy. Hope it goes better next time.

hey, no problem. You can always shop around some more but it'll be hard to beat $119 for a ballast, ref/socket and lamp tube. Good starter setup. You can always add a cooltube to this setup later on.

HTG sells a 400W HPS with lamp tube, ballast and reflector for $119.

This is a basic diagram of how flood systems work: Get fill/drain and overflow fittings at a hydro shop or at a hdwe store. The fill/drain fitting (on right) has a barbed 13mm (1/2") fitting which suits a piece of common garden hose. The overflow is a bulkhead fitting with a ~19mm...

Start by getting rid of the CFLs. If you are impressed with how they are growing now, you'd drop dead if you saw what they would do under a modestly sized HPS like a 400.

Botyritis spores are everywhere. If conditions suiting their growth exist, you will see infections like this. Botyritis thrives with high humidity and poor air circulation. Healthy plants have good natural defences against pathogens. An unhealthy plant is more susceptible to botyritis than...

If you are making this judgment by looking at the EC of the nute soln, bear in mind that tiny plants will use nutes but in such small qty that you may not be able to see a lot of difference in the EC measurement. You're right in that new growers often kill with kindness; overfert & overwatering...

Heavy duty timers which are rated to handle air conditioners will usually work fine without a relay/contactor. I've been running my 1000W HPS lights on HD mechanical timers for several years now. These are rated to handle 10A @ 240V (2400W). The two HD timers on either side of the ckt breaker...

atrumblood is on it. It's botyritis aka grey mould.

Well explained, Woomeister. :)

movie? aha... Idiocracy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia That one never made it to Australia. No wonder I'm mystified. Great premise for a flick, tho. :D

Well, thanks Bluelab... for making things clear as mud. :?

WTF? Some sort of spoof? :confused: Wouldn't give him/her that much credit. There's MUCH more annoying induhviduals out there. It continually amazes me how hard a troll will work to mess with some people who don't know any better.

Depends on the plant! Skip the hydro guy, come here first when trying to sort out plant probs. You can usually get at least my best guesses, but there's a number of other competent growers here of whom you can solicit a 2nd opinion. Yeffir. :) 2-part types are mixed using equal parts of "A" &...

Don't piss off the gf and your plants won't look like that... often. :lol:

Sounds bitchin'. :)

You only need one flowering area. Can't see any benefit in having more than one. If you already have two 600HPS, use 'em, but I'd prefer a single 1000 in a cooltube. A 1000 makes about 165,000 lumens from about 1100W out of the AC mains, 600s make about 95,000 from about 650-670W. tis...

Now you're going to tax my memory. It must have, but I can't recall offhand how badly. yeah, I started with the jug label recommendation of 2ml/L, reduced to 1ml/L, still cooking them, then 0.5ml/L, when I stopped using the stuff until I could get some clarity from Canna. No, and precisely...