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An online dew point calculator says for example: If air temp is 70F (21C) and RH is 55%, then dew point would be 53F (11.6C). How much do we need to stay above dew point to be safe from mold?

Isn't the whole point to increase temperature high enough to stay above dew point (point of saturation)? somebody1701 once said: Absolute humidity isn't relevant. That's the total amount of water in the air. Plants care about RH which is how much water is in the air relative to it's saturation...

It will not: http://rollitup.org/t/drying-without-a-dehumidifier-increasing-temp.953685/

Time to make a few things clear. How to understand the appearance of mold and how is it related to: 1) temperature 2) and RH If the goal is to dry slowly, then how can I make sure to stay at optimal temp and RH? Most popular answer would probably be to stay at 65-75F (18-24C) and 45-65%...

Thank you very much for the answers. I will continue this in another thread.

Let's say the goal is to get it done in 2 weeks (drying and curing) after harvesting. Which way is better? 1) dry it for normal amount of time which is probably 5 days and then cure it for another 9 days. 2) or dry for a very long time - 2 weeks and no curing at all. Which way gives you better...

Bumpadybump.

So you're guessing 2 air changes per hour would be enough. That's 0.03 air changes per minute. That's not much at all. Exactly what I was hoping for. That's exactly my situation. Fan at max speed is 0.2 per minute, which is enough as I'm using CO2. Would be probably enough without CO2 too. But...

Could keep co2 system on timer too, but I'm just wondering if there might be a benefit from pumping co2 after lights turn off - for example 30 minutes more. Maybe photosynthesis doesn't stop right away. I don't know.

That's 0.33 air exhanges per minute. Sounds WAY far fetched to me. They only need some oxigen at night, doesn't them? To my understanding 0.2 air exchanges per minute is enough for lights ON. But lights off must be less, would be my guess.

How many air exchanges per minute is the minimum ventilation at lights off as long as RH is good?

What is the perfect timing for supplementary co2? Switch on when lights on and switch off when lights off? .. or should it be switched off a bit later after switching off lights or something along these lines? Just want to make sure how is best.

You can find it by googling the title: The facts about CO2 ppm: don't use 1,500!

Spurr says it should not be over 1200. He seems to know what he's talking about: The facts about CO2 ppm: don't use 1,500! High, I haven't posted much lately, but I thought this topic was important enough to write a thread. I have written about this topic quite a lot in the past, but I have...

I found an interesting post at grasscity: Like 5Jperday said above... its pretty much pointless to run Co2 unless you have HID lights. If your light intensity is too low, then your plants wont take in more then 400ppm of Co2 anyway, which is already in the air... so adding Co2 would be...

So you're basically saying less is more. I get it. Overabundance is worse than a slight deficit. The difference I'm getting is slightly too pale leaf color closest to light, hence the feeling that maybe I should increase nutrient uptake. Got light movers and stuff, so shouldn't bee to close...

I know that Co2 works better with higher temps than usual. Higher temp itself increases the rate of watering needed. Now I have heard that PPM's should be slightly lowered if dealing with exessive heat, because you will need to water more often and plant will therefore consume slightly more...

Can you please provide me with a good butane hash oil method? I've done it before with isopropyl alcohol, but how much different is it with butane gas?

Why are you so sure of that? What about that 1-3% of THC in fan leaves? Do you even know what Co2 extraction method is?