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i honestly dont even give a second look at companies who use the term "quantum board" for their knock-off products. First red flag that they are a rip off artist

which is why the standard 28mm chip is great. citizen, luminus, sharp, bridgelux, cree, etc all make chips in that size, who knows who will have the best chips in a few years. heatsinks and drivers are a durable investment

Sale on 140x70 pinfin heatsinks - $12 these are drilled for cxb3590 (but can be easily adapted to cob of your choice by using an existing hole and drilling and tapping one other. These were the ones used in the original design of PLCs cob bars...

ill get to it soon, sorry, going out of town tomorrow morning you know how that goes

he obviously has 7% more power in the rig and gains maybe another 5-6% running them at 60 and 75W so not night and day but it is a bump. youd have to balance the 5-6% efficiency bump vs the 25% extra cost (arguably could be recovered in electricity bill or yield in a few runs) you could do...

restocked some citizen chips on site: 1212 2700k 80CRI 1212 5700k 90 1212 6500k 80 1818 3000k 80 1818 3000k 90 1818 3500k 90 1818 4000k 90 1825 3500k 80 1825 3500k 90<------ citi will be discontinuing these soon, if you need qty,please let me know soon! last orders 9/30

yes thats fundamental with all LEDs, its all about heat dissipation. even with super cooled heatsinks, there is still thermal resistance that must be overcome between the diode junction and the case, and then the case and the heatsink. You can play around with the simulators on the manufacturers...

that Y axis isnt a calibrated as PAR or lumens, FYI. its really only for comparative purposes so you can compare curves within a given test, but if you see another test by me it is not comparable. there are lot of variables (temp, did i use the same sensor, etc). I just use it to compare...

depends on what your space can handle if you can maintain your product quality at high light levels, more light will definitely yield more mass of product, but its diminishing returns. In other words, dont expect that going from 800 to 1000 umol will increase yield 20%. Also dont expect that...

have you considered upgrading to a more efficient AC? the newer minisplits are super efficient as i mentioned via email you'll be able to run your room at 85F with the LEDs which should reduce your load a little

maybe people dont post about them as much, reasonably steady over here though it seems its shifted more toward larger grows

correct

that first graph is the gen 3s last graph is gen 4s vs gen 3s as with the gen 3s, nothing in its price range touches it, you gotta get up over $30 a chip to get any better

meter for measuring drivers powered at 220V https://www.amazon.com/DROK-80-300V-Power-Energy-Meter/dp/B01MRZAFAF

you asked me via email what meter to measure power consumption they are pulling from wall, if you are wired 120V these are cheap and easy http://www.p3international.com/products/P4400.html if you want to measure light itself these are accurate enough for your purpose (evening out a garden and...

i looked at a dome i had stashed at the bottom of a tent. gave it the least attention of any other clones going right now definitely lower light level than i usually root under were throwing roots after same 10-14 days, and were *at least* as healthy in my experience lower light keeps them...

ive always wondered about the people who say they 'consistently' root in 5-7 days even taking the most ideal healthy clones ive only seen maybe one or two strains that would show roots that soon. i have close to 100% success rate but 10-14 days is the norm with some strains taking up to 21...

ive since switched to dip n gro. way more cost effective and you can mix up a small amount as you need it without contaminating the bottle. a $30 bottle or whatever is like a lifetime supply

$1 a watt is easy, hit me up

D=36V B=50V C=68V Edit: oops i assumed those were the usual vero 27s. few people use the 18s though those look decent for the price