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The trichs on the sugar leaves turn milky then amber before the trichs on the calyxes. Usually a week or two earlier.

It isn't needed unless you've waaay overfed your plants. And it doesn't matter if the nitrogen in your bottle comes from organic grass fed cow piss or a lab somewhere, it's still nitrogen. If you're top dressing organic amendments, then it's a lot harder to overfeed. If you're planted straight...

I'm still waiting for my pistils/stigmas to turn. Most of them are white at the base with brown tips, and have been that way for a week or two. The calyxes/bracts on the lower branches are twice the size of the ones higher up, but smaller than the seeded ones. Does anyone know what temperature...

Autos are notorious for being far more sensitive to overfeeding than photos. I would use lower nute levels, 50% of recommended dosage max. Except maybe the cal mag. Especially with RO water.

Go ahead, take it, use it, and tell us if it works. Reality trumps logic every time.

What type of lights, how strong, how high above the plant? What nutes, at what strength, how often? Medium?

Lol, wasn't attacking you, just expressing doubt as to the efficacy of the product. So this sounds like a foliar feeding of calmag. Static charges would be grounded out by the plant. If this works, it's not through static electricity.

Jorge Cervantes has a video about washing powdery mildew off buds as you harvest. I don't know about the mineral oil as I've never used it. I used potassium bicarbonate for PM once, it never came back.

Are you looking at the calyxes or the sugar leaves? Trichs on the sugar leaves go milky and amber before the calyxes.

A plant that small likely won't have used up the nutrients in the soil, so feeding might be a bad idea. Potting up at this point is unlikely to help either. If she weren't so far into flower I would've suggested trying to reveg, but @DCcan is right, you could very easily bring in a lot of pests...

I have to disagree with a couple of points here. I had to harvest a sativa at 6 weeks after a light fell on it. After drying and curing it didn't smell like weed, but it got me high. Hit fast and wore off fast, but it kept working for weeks. I don't see how you could build up a tolerance to it...

Definitely looks like a micro deficiency. Iron maybe?

I wouldn't think so, out in nature how much does the spectrum change during an autoflower's cycle? But even if it would help, won't the plants in your flower room be done before the auto? Most resin production is in the last few weeks, so putting them in there when the regs are done shouldn't hurt.

If your friend is growing clones from the same plant as you and his are doing better, what is he doing that you aren't? Or what is he not doing that you are? If he has his in a different medium, I can see why that may not help.

Why don't you just keep it under the veg lights? Autos shouldn't need 12/12.

Lol, the only branch of the government competent enough to do that is the military, and they don't really care about weed. It would be the LPs. Never underestimate corporate greed. edit:nice plants

No airstrikes lol, they need to land on the leaf to stick the egg to it. Hornets eat caterpillars, and I think that's one of the reasons why I haven't seen any budworms so far. One of the first insecticides, lol.

I used insecticidal soap for leafhoppers this year, and that probably kept the aphids off. That and the other plants in my yard that attracted them. Milkweed, a rosebush, and a couple of firethorn plants. I would try the tomato spray first, the insecticidal soap works, but it's smelly, and there...

I'm guessing you were looking at the sugar leaves, not the calyxes. They always turn earlier than the trichs on the calyxes.

Looking great!