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IR photons are photosynthetic. I know my mind was blown too.

If you are gonna put DE on your plants while in flower you might as well throw them in the garbage right now.

Defóliate, vacuum and in extreme cases take the plants outside and wash them down with cold water. Then release some predators. To handle the rest. Spider mites are the creatures of nightmares. Drop your room temp to slow their life cycle. also one note on persimillis predator mites. You have...

Has to be the moisture. Chlorophyll won't just come back after drying. Especially in a dark bag. Chlorophyll needs light. That's why we dry in the dark.

@jzs147 did pretty recently you can see his grow threads.

Use a Venturi with your spray pump to incorporate air into the water. I also hate the hum of the air pumps. But honestly air stones just work the best for me.

XLG 20 could get you there if you do 2 strings in parallel. But I've shopped a lot of drivers I think it's pretty rare to see such high voltage on a low wattage driver. i am assuming there's a good reason you don't want to run any in parallel?

If setting a light timer and keeping the tent closed is difficult then yes. It's very difficult to grow photos.

That's a huge/thick canopy for two tiny 15w fans. I'd get a 150w fan and mount it above your light and let it blow down into the canopy. Dead air really helps PM take off. Also potassium bicarbonate kills PM better than anything I've tried.

A pump running in water will raise the temp unless the ambient temperature is low enough to cool the water at a pace faster than the pump can heat the water. if his res is 26 gallons (or 100 liters). And he uses a small hydroponics pump of 20W. And the water starting temp is 64F (18 Celsius)...

Lol I wouldn't bother with a pump at all to be honest. You already heave the air stones which should be enough. I found Floraflex nutrients (powder) to be really PH stable over a week.

I'd be surprised if the problem wasn't at least partly the temperature. Thats super low. You want it to be like 82-84F with LEDs and CO2.

A water pump will heat the res. After two weeks the water will be súper hot. Unless it's on a timer to just run a while each day.

You could just replace the driver. It would be 2-4 wires to reconnect. Not too much effort. But if you are down for an upgrade anyway I'd do a 2x2 bar fixture for the best spread and efficiency.

Sonoff makes power meters you can feed with 110 or 220 I believe. And you can see the power usage on your phone.

Also as a note. Pick a huge relay since LEDs have a big inrush current. Some driver draw 80-100X their operating current when first starting. Each one of my lights draws 3.2a roughly. So I put 3 lights on one circuit and 3 lights on the other to help split up the loads. And some drivers have a...

It's in the room build thread. I killed off everything I had a few months ago things were getting hectic with work. I grabbed some clones off a buddy though. Just growing them into moms and will start back soon. https://www.rollitup.org/t/acmpr-grow-room-build-log.1038307/post-16221218

300w is a little bit too much for the grow space. I would dim the lights down to 200W. 240 would give your 35W/sqft which is about ideal for the grow space.

It's light stress. See how it's fox tailing. What are the temps in the room. It could probably be hotter. What size is the grow area and what wattage are the lights?