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The ones like I used are hard plastic with the metal tabs embedded in it. None of the metal parts touch anything other than the wires you attach to them. The cool thing about these is that you can configure them however you like with the little jumpers. The ones I got have 8 separate connectors...

Well, at the risk of repeating myself, those lights REALISTICALLY have a coverage area of 1.5' x 1.5', enough for one plant, barely.

If you've got that much space, don't limit yourself to one crappy blurple light.

These lights have a useful coverage area of about 1.5' x 1.5' - space for about one decent sized plant.

I would run either 14 or 12 gauge from the driver to a distribution bus/strip mounted on the fixture, then from the distribution bus you can run individual 18 gauge wires to each strip. Like this:

JB Weld with a little Arctic Silver paste works fantastic. I spread it super thin using a toothpick. You could even use the JB Weld by itself.

Depends on the total current load and the wire gauge used.

Yeah that was just rough estimate spacing them equally based on the four row limitation.

Then yeah, bunch them at the end somewhat and open the spacing some in the center.

No reflective walls?

7 cobs per row, spaced about 18 inches apart. Space the four rows 18 inches apart as well.

Exactly. They would have to stock literally dozens of different models - far easier for them to just select and buy a few models that go with their kits, and if the end user wants to run something different they can get whatever they want from various suppliers out there.

Damn, I had a feeling they would do that. Yeah, if you can't take advantage of the volume discount, then the Bridgelux are a good alternative.

25 watts per square foot. A little less than recommended but workable. I would do two HLG-480's with 6 COB's each and get it above 35 watts per square foot. You can always dim down from max power, but you can't dim UP.

HeatsinkUSA will cut to your spec, no extra charge.

Which is also what happens when you move to a higher CRI.

No, the correct term is "shill"

Contact @diyleduk - he will hook you up.

No, the heatsink really isn't needed at test current and below. They will run fine without one, but they do need some support in the middle or they will droop. I use .601 profile heat sink anyway, but its dirt cheap at about a dollar a foot. And yeah, I do think the Samsungs are the best bang...

What do you think a filter does?