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Hey everyone, we've run out of UV boards and single heatsinks. Parts are on their way and we should have a new run of boards and heatsinks by the following week. Apologies for any inconvenience in the mean time.

Um, I guess. I haven't seen that before! o_O Is there any way to disconnect the main (AC) power cable and re-attach it to the DC side? That way you could simply put a mains plug on the AC side where you currently have a connector, and then transfer the connector and cable to the DC side...

If it's any consolation, the drivers don't produce that much heat. If a 320W driver is 94% efficient, then that means 6% of 320W is converted to heat, which is about 20W. An additional 20W in a 4x4 grow area isn't that much but when you add it to a heatsink (it won't all go to the heatsink, but...

Anything from 14-17AWG if you are drawing 9A or more. If you are just connecting one board to one small driver, then 18AWG will work. We supply 17AWG with our wiring kits: https://growlightsaustralia.com/product-category/wiring-kits/

We have never condoned placing drivers on heatsinks, and there's a simple reason for it: of all the places you might need to add warmth in a grow room, the LEDs are the last place you want to add heat to. Heat kills LEDs. It reduces their useful life and reduces their efficiency. There is no...

2000 PPFD is way too high for an average 12-hour flowering period. What Bugbee says in that video, if you watch the whole presentation, is that cannabis plants can handle up to 2000 PPFD – which is about what the sun produces at midday in summer at most latitudes – but that it is only for a...

Ha! Ha! You're a funny guy! But go easy on him, he's OK.

We're hoping to have them in a couple of weeks. There was obviously a hold-up with Chinese New Year and the coronavirus shut-down, but everyone's back at work now, so it shouldn't be too long. They've already been ordered and paid for, so the heatsink manufacturer is just working through a...

Yes, I noticed it had been sitting in Customs for a while. It's usually a bit quicker than that. @[ZooWeeMama] your's will be going out tomorrow and should take about 4 business days as it's going express.

Bump the umol/j and increase the amount of cyan when blended with 2700/3000K. You end up with a very efficient, reasonably smooth spectrum with plenty of blue to offset any possible stretch (shade avoidance) caused by having so much red. That would be my guess. It also looks like a blend of...

The Osram Oslon are one of the most efficient 620/630nm diodes and they have typical efficiency of 57%. We have calculated other 620 and 630nm diodes around the 55-56% mark. That is almost the same efficiency that we are getting with our Nichia V3F1 CRI90 2700K. If we used CRI90 3500K we would...

I do not see you post much but you always have very good insights! I completely agree with your premise that perhaps it is best to provide stronger UVB for a shorter amount of time, building it up and tapering it off, to give the plant time to prepare and recover. That is arguably what mother...

Sometimes it comes down to practicalities. We have not built a heavy UVB lamp, but I'm sure there would be added expense not just with the UV LEDs and their short lifespan, but possibly getting it through health authorities. Perhaps ~295nm is the most efficient or can trigger certain...

So we all know that sunlight is not static. If you are not a botanist, like me, then you tend to rely on correlation. For example, if we see cannabis growing and evolving in high-UV areas – which it does and did – and we know that UV breaks down cannabinoids and we have also read scientific...

OK, so many posts to address. I will try to answer what I can as best as I can. Yes I miss his posts too. There was always a lot of information in them and no ego. That is rare.

LED Teknik reckons Marubeni also have the "best" spectrum (his words) but he says they are also very expensive and have large MOQs. We have not looked into them. This is the spectrum. It is very nice and also has a 420-425nm pump. Here is a comparison of the Marubeni 6500K (top) and the...

Yes there are some other purple pump midpower diodes out there (and COBS too) which go into the <450 range. I know the main ones PC looked at early on were Yuji Led (VTC), Nichia (Optisolis 5000+K), Seoul Semiconductor (Sunlike) and I think there were some other Chinese manufacturers also making...

I posted this in another thread. Apart from the missing 400-430nm, this is what I think is a good example of a "balanced" spectrum. There are no gaps, and the spectral levels are fairly "balanced". Of course you would expect me to say that but I'm sure we can all agree this CRI95 LED is much...

Arcadia 6% UVB 30% UVA. Many reptile bulb brands appear to have similar spectra, so there's probably not a lot of difference between one 6% UVB bulb and another. A more interesting comparison might be a 6% UVB and 14% UVB bulb, but I'm not sure you would want to run a 14% UVB bulb through the...

Our definition of a "balanced" spectrum is just that: a complete spectrum that has no appreciable gaps from at least 400-700nm, which is obviously the "official" PAR range, but preferably up to 780nm or so to include Far Red. Most CRI80 white phosphor LEDs have little to no output below 440nm...