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Screw the deficiency charts, they are as bad as going on WebMD and trying to self diagnose a cold. You'll end up believing you have Hodgkins lymphoma!!!! Someone here will correctly diagnose the problem if you keep putting good pics up. Your plants aren't gonna die in a day or two.

We're just one site, there are MANY others out there just as big. A pipe dream of mine would be to unite the bickering masses in support of a common goal. (I know....never happen :( )

with over 350,000 members just on this site alone, if everyone sent in $5, we'd be a formidable PAC!

That'll do for now, but when you get ready for the next round, PM me and I'll walk you thru mixing a soil with what you have available that will be light years ahead of any store bought potting soil.

You don't feed seedlings! You are supposed to have them under 24/7 lighting anyway at this stage. No less than 18/6. Why on earth do you WANT the thing to grow faster? If you figure out how to do that, post how you did it and I'm sure they'll make a sticky. That will help everyone here cut their...

that aint a ph problem!!

I have alway been skeptical about the introduction of Ruderalis genes in otherwise perfectly good cannabis genetics!! Other than the auto-flower trait and small stature, I see nothing worthwhile in Ruderalis genetics.

Depends on whether or not your are feeding an organic regimen, but yes, by all means recycle. Now if you have loaded the soil with chemical salt ferts (MG, Scotts, Peters or Ferti-lome) dump the shit and start over right.

I see that you do have drainage holes, are they adequate? They look nitrogen starved to me. I'd add a weak fert high in N, and maybe like you said, add s wee bit of kelp to kick things off. They really aren't "seedlings" anymore. That soil "should" have adequate nutrients in it, but relying on...

I've heard of many who do that. It seems to be a sound idea. I wouldn't know how true it is, I lolli-pop mine and have no undergrowth to speak of, so i'm probably not the best source for a definitive answer,

I doubt you'll make a decent connection there. Your best bet is S Beach or the Grove. It's a hike, but you have a better chance unless you REALLY know someone there. I lived at Bud & Mary's and at Robbies Marina at the southern end (just across Indian Key Fill) on lower matecumbe for years...

According to what I read, she's taking her poo from the middle of the pile where there is active decomposition going on. That's really good bacterial and fungal action!! Yeah, good compost is a must, along with EWC, and Llama poo that has gone thru the worm processor would be GOLD!!

Work as much of the dolomite as you can down as far into the soil as far as you can without disturbing the root area, In fact, if you could mix up a batch of soil with the dolomite in it I'd prolly transplant them into the remixed soil. Another option would be to get as many egg shells as you...

The stuff you are getting almost certainly has a great colony of fungi and bacteria already established!!! Llama poo is good stuff (I been readin' up on it!) It doesn't have as much partially decomposed prganic matter as say Horse or cow manure, however it DOES have a great NPK value. On par...

The llama beans are good. I'd use regular water on them (your plants, not the lama beans. LOL), alternating with teas. As I said in your other thread, the beneficial bacteria and the mycorrhizal fyungi will make P readily available to your plants, so you don't need to give mad amounts of P...

They work.

What about the poverty here in the US?

You want to google "mycorrhizae". The beneficial bacteria found in soil, along with a well established mycorrhizae/plant symbiosis is the very foundation of organics.

What ever FF uses to adjust the pH of their soil. It could be garden lime, but in this case I believe they use either dolomite or oyster shell. Either way, it's calcium carbonate that acts as the buffer. Don't sweat pH in soil. Again, don't sweat pH in soil. pH in soil is a non-issue. Forget...

Is that a "brand name" or are you actually using LLama poo? In organics, less is more. The mycorrhizae will "mine out" P and feed it to the plant. W/O the fungi, P is pretty hard for a plant to take up, which is why most chemical based "Bloom Boosters" have such stupid high P numbers. I doubt...