JMD's #2 Indoor grow (hydroponic)
- Thread starter JMD
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JMD
Well-Known Member
You mean the Cree boards?Excited to see how you are going to arrange the chips
Yep, seems to be a great increase in growth. My journal will be here, for everyone to read and learn from (good or bad).
Slipon
Well-Known Member
is them Cree Chips all 2700K ?
also exited on how you will space em out, are they on 50W each ? if thats 800 actual watt I would like to grow atleast 4 big size plants under em or even 8 small and atleast use 120x120cm space, will you angle em on the panel or make the panel big enough ? if I should build em I think I might choose to build 4 lights with 4 chips in each, so I could spread em out a bit, use one at each plant etc, could even grow some in between if you space em so they overlap a bit, and also give you the option to just run one over your seedling and if you plan to continue to grow autos I would aim for 12 under 800W but thats just me
look good, Im subbed
also exited on how you will space em out, are they on 50W each ? if thats 800 actual watt I would like to grow atleast 4 big size plants under em or even 8 small and atleast use 120x120cm space, will you angle em on the panel or make the panel big enough ? if I should build em I think I might choose to build 4 lights with 4 chips in each, so I could spread em out a bit, use one at each plant etc, could even grow some in between if you space em so they overlap a bit, and also give you the option to just run one over your seedling and if you plan to continue to grow autos I would aim for 12 under 800W but thats just me
look good, Im subbed
JMD
Well-Known Member
All of them are XPGWHT-L1-0000-00EE7. Each module is 50W, so yes, 800W total
The initial idea was a lamp that was 50x50cm, but I'm thinking of making four individual lamps instead. There's just something about making a single 800W lamp!
Right now I'm in the process of making the drivers myself.
Update on the grow:
I just re-tested the water, and it showed a PH of 8.8.. no idea why it changed that much in that short time. Dumped it to PH 5.5. Water showed 1800 PPM.
Slipon
Well-Known Member
yea I understand, a 800W light would rock, specially when its a DIY of quality parts
but IMO a 800W LED panel should then be like 1x1m or you atleast have to make each "cluster" able to turn a bit (wish my panel could do that, consider to customize it at some point, maybe split it up in two if possible) so you can aim them at your plants, since you have enough light to grow 4-8 plants easily but you wont be able to keep them all in a 50x50cm space, agin IMO total overkill, my bought "Apollo" panel is 550x350cm roughly and IMO got enough light (280W) to cover twice the space as it cover (75x50) if you make four panels on 200W each you can use one to start with and add as your plants grow and end up with one plant under each in full bloom and if you grow small autos I bet you could do two under each light or 4 rows of 4 (=12)
btw
the seedling you have going now would thrive well under a single 30W CLF so why blast it with 800W of LED, not like electricity is cheap in our Country
I grew four nice mature plants under a single 600W HPS with great results, should I use 800W of LED, I would like to grow twice of that or minimum equal to a 1000 HPS
but IMO a 800W LED panel should then be like 1x1m or you atleast have to make each "cluster" able to turn a bit (wish my panel could do that, consider to customize it at some point, maybe split it up in two if possible) so you can aim them at your plants, since you have enough light to grow 4-8 plants easily but you wont be able to keep them all in a 50x50cm space, agin IMO total overkill, my bought "Apollo" panel is 550x350cm roughly and IMO got enough light (280W) to cover twice the space as it cover (75x50) if you make four panels on 200W each you can use one to start with and add as your plants grow and end up with one plant under each in full bloom and if you grow small autos I bet you could do two under each light or 4 rows of 4 (=12)
btw
the seedling you have going now would thrive well under a single 30W CLF so why blast it with 800W of LED, not like electricity is cheap in our Country
I grew four nice mature plants under a single 600W HPS with great results, should I use 800W of LED, I would like to grow twice of that or minimum equal to a 1000 HPS
JMD
Well-Known Member
The water read at 1300 ppm before I added any nutes - this is due to a lot of minerals in the tap water as well as clay from the medium.
I could split it up into for example four lamps, each 24x25cm and 200W.
Haha I completely agree, and I do not plan on running 800W on just a single small plant
That would just be silly!Remember that I'm also going to design the driver to be able to run at lower currents.
JMD
Well-Known Member
Nope! Think about the efficiency of the LEDs.. The higher current, the lower the efficiency. So the best solution would be to lower the current, instead of pulsing a high current.
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
JMD you wrote "The water read at 1300 ppm before I added any nutes - this is due to a lot of minerals in the tap water as well as clay from the medium.", which tells me to adjust ppms for however much, and of which elements, the clay and high tap water ppms consist of
I would not treat them as a non-factor
I would not treat them as a non-factor
Oh you r right. I read a bit about it, maybe the diagrams r interesting www.all-electronics.de/media/file/4477 even though u wont understand the text efficiency is better with cc but it changes in contrast to pwm the Color temperature as you can see in the Diagram "bild 1". Blue gets more into yellow range. But maybe you already knew that How do you know about electronics, DIY or some educational Background?
efficiency is better with cc but it changes in contrast to pwm the Color temperature as you can see in the Diagram "bild 1". Blue gets more into yellow range. But maybe you already knew that How do you know about electronics, DIY or some educational Background?
JMD
Well-Known Member
That would be optimal, indeed, but I'm not able to measure what the water contains in which ratios.
I understand the textOh you r right. I read a bit about it, maybe the diagrams r interesting www.all-electronics.de/media/file/4477 even though u wont understand the text
The relative chromaticity of course changes with current, which for the Cree XPG looks like this (they only show a general graph for all warm white, even though there's a difference):
I'd say that's acceptable, considering that the LED output 114 lumen at 350mA (1.015W and 112 lumen/watt) compared to 380 lumen at 1500mA (4.875W and 78 lumen/watt). That's an increase of the efficiency of 44%.
JMD
Well-Known Member
Not necessarily.. If you think I'm German, you're mistaken (but close though)and now i know why u know about electronics
My background is that I have an Electrical Engineering degree (and currently about to finish my M.Sc.EE).
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Just another in a long list of reasons to get rid of hydroton. Also, any tap water that has > 200ppm presents a huge problem when attempting to dial in a nutrient regimen.
Anyway, everyone should be using a QUALITY RO for cooking and drinking (scary shit in water supply, including wells) + plenty of low ppm water to mix nutes with
That would be optimal, indeed, but I'm not able to measure what the water contains in which ratios.
Anyway, everyone should be using a QUALITY RO for cooking and drinking (scary shit in water supply, including wells) + plenty of low ppm water to mix nutes with
That would be optimal, indeed, but I'm not able to measure what the water contains in which ratios.