headtreep
Well-Known Member
From the man himself http://www.microbeorganics.com/#What_is_Compost_Tea_
Please be aware that the quality of the compost or vermicompost used is directly proportional to the quality of the compost tea produced.
Some Measures;
50 gallons US is 189 liters
1 gal. = 3.78 liters
1 liter = 4.2 cups US
1 liter = 1.05 quarts US liquid
1 US ounce = 29.57 ml
[SIZE=+1]Bacteria/Archaea[/SIZE]
You will note that I use the expression bacteria/archaea rather than just bacteria. This is because recent scientific research has revealed that there is a distinct species, Archaea, co-habitating with bacteria which previously was called bacteria. The only way to tell them apart is through complex analysis. The difference is in their membrane structure and therefore their ability to process (digest) different substances. Because I can’t tell them apart under the microscope I have decided to name them both.
[SIZE=+1]A/ Recipe for a Diversity of Microbes; Nutrient Cycling [/SIZE]
- measurements do not need to be precise; expressed in different units in brackets.
*compost/vermicompost – 2.38% max. (4.5 liters), (19 cups US), (4.5 quarts US) – reduce as required according to brewer and water quality
*unsulphured pure black strap molasses - I recommend using 0.50% (just under 1 liter), (4 cups US) (1 quart US) [but you can use a maximum 0.75% (1.4 liters), (5.9 cups US), (1.4 quarts US)] – reduce as required according to brewer and water quality
*fish hydrolysate(high quality) - 0.063% - (120 ml); (4 ounces)
Do not use chemically deodorized liquid fish!
*kelp meal - 0.25% max. (0.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
NOTE: This is a maximum amount of kelp and you can experiment using less. This is using regular grade kelp meal for livestock. If you have soluble kelp, I recommend using smaller amounts. Sometimes kelp meal can initially delay bacterial multiplication.
*soft rock phosphate granules/powder - 0.063% - (120 ml) (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
We grind up the granules into a powder with a coffee grinder
Length of Brew;
This will provide a CT with a microbial content of, bacteria/archaea and fungal hyphae (if present in compost) when brewed for 18 to 24 hours. When using our fungal inhabited vermicompost, the optimum time seems to be 18 hours for a bacteria/archaea and fungal brew. If brewed for 30 to 36 hours (and up to 42 to 48 hours if you have a microscope) there will be flagellates and amoebae (& some ciliates) as well, providing a functioning microbial consortia which is better for nutrient cycling in the soil/root interface. Because of the variations in brewing compost tea, it is better to examine the microbial content with a microscope and decide at what period of the brew you should apply it but if you do not have a microscope then use the CT between the time periods mentioned above for the desired effects.
Extras (when using extras you may wish to adjust amounts of other ingredients to avoid overload)
*pyrophyllite clay powder – 0.063% - (120 ml), (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
This is a good ingredient to stimulate more bacteria/archaea diversity which seems to experimentally contribute to disease control. It can be found here at a reasonable price. http://www.continentalclay.com/detail.php?PID=695&cat_id=197&sub_categoryID=4
*alfalfa meal – up to 0.25% (.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
This promotes the growth of flagellates and amoebae and is also a fungal food. Just get the cheap stuff by the bag at the feed store, checking that it does not contain anti-microbials
*Canadian sphagnum peat moss Premier Brand – throw in a handful or two to promote flagellates and amoebae and/or fungal hyphae. Batches are inconsistent, so unless you have a microscope you won’t be sure which set of microbes it will promote but I have never seen anything bad.
[SIZE=+2][SIZE=+1]B/ Fungal Dominant;[/SIZE] [/SIZE]
*compost/vermicompost (fungal content) - 2.38% max. (4.5 liters), (19 cups US), (4.5 quarts US)
*unsulphured pure black strap molasses - 0.25% (475 ml rounded), (2 cups US), (0.5 quart US)
NOTE: Also experiment with eliminating black strap molasses. Recent trials have shown that with some types of compost the fungi does better. If you have a microscope check it out for yourself.
NOTE: If you have activated your compost with oat flour I recommend NOT using molasses in addition to fish hydrolysate unless you are willing to brew for a longer period and best to have a microscope.
*fish hydrolysate(high quality) - 0.190% - (360 ml) (12 ounces) Do not use chemically deodorized liquid fish! You may experiment using slightly higher amounts.
*kelp meal - 0.25% max. (.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
NOTE: This is a maximum amount of kelp and you can experiment using less. This is using regular grade kelp meal for livestock. If you have soluble kelp, I recommend using smaller amounts. Sometimes kelp meal can initially delay bacterial multiplication.
*rock phosphate granules/powder - 0.063% - (120 ml), (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
NOTE: We seem to get the same results using 100 ml of rock phosphate but experiment yourself. Sometimes we run the rock phosphate granules through the electric coffee grinder to get a fine powder.
Extras (when using extras you may wish to adjust amounts of other ingredients to avoid overload)
* Humic acid - I am no longer recommending the use of humic acid in compost tea, as I've not seen any benefits from doing so. Better to apply it directly to the soil.
*you could also add one of the Alaska ‘Humus’ products and/or Canadian sphagnum Premier brand at 0.25% or less. If there are fungi spores present in the substance, hyphae should grow.
*you may add a little soil or partially/completely decomposed forest litter (rotted leaves, wood pieces). If you are applying CT to grass or flowers use some local soil from a healthy (unmanipulated by man) area where similar plant species are doing well. If you are applying to deciduous trees or bushes then gather some soil or forest litter from a deciduous forest where the forest appears healthy and has that…you know… fabulous earthy odor. I recommend using 500 ml. (0.5 liter) or 2 cups to begin with and see how that works out. Careful to not use big chunks if using the Microbulator 50.
Length of Brew
Brew until fungal hyphae is observed with a microscope or for 18 to 24 hours. When using our fungal inhabited vermicompost, the optimum time seems to be 18 hours for a bacteria/archaea and fungal brew, however fungal hyphae is extracted at 10 hours with less bacteria/archaea present. If you want a fungal dominant brew this may be the best time to apply. For those of you with microscopes, check it out. This recipe, provided there are fungi spores in your compost, should produce a higher volume of fungal hyphae and reduced bacteria/archaea numbers.
Please be aware that the quality of the compost or vermicompost used is directly proportional to the quality of the compost tea produced.
Some Measures;
50 gallons US is 189 liters
1 gal. = 3.78 liters
1 liter = 4.2 cups US
1 liter = 1.05 quarts US liquid
1 US ounce = 29.57 ml
[SIZE=+1]Bacteria/Archaea[/SIZE]
You will note that I use the expression bacteria/archaea rather than just bacteria. This is because recent scientific research has revealed that there is a distinct species, Archaea, co-habitating with bacteria which previously was called bacteria. The only way to tell them apart is through complex analysis. The difference is in their membrane structure and therefore their ability to process (digest) different substances. Because I can’t tell them apart under the microscope I have decided to name them both.
[SIZE=+1]A/ Recipe for a Diversity of Microbes; Nutrient Cycling [/SIZE]
- measurements do not need to be precise; expressed in different units in brackets.
*compost/vermicompost – 2.38% max. (4.5 liters), (19 cups US), (4.5 quarts US) – reduce as required according to brewer and water quality
*unsulphured pure black strap molasses - I recommend using 0.50% (just under 1 liter), (4 cups US) (1 quart US) [but you can use a maximum 0.75% (1.4 liters), (5.9 cups US), (1.4 quarts US)] – reduce as required according to brewer and water quality
*fish hydrolysate(high quality) - 0.063% - (120 ml); (4 ounces)
Do not use chemically deodorized liquid fish!
*kelp meal - 0.25% max. (0.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
NOTE: This is a maximum amount of kelp and you can experiment using less. This is using regular grade kelp meal for livestock. If you have soluble kelp, I recommend using smaller amounts. Sometimes kelp meal can initially delay bacterial multiplication.
*soft rock phosphate granules/powder - 0.063% - (120 ml) (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
We grind up the granules into a powder with a coffee grinder
Length of Brew;
This will provide a CT with a microbial content of, bacteria/archaea and fungal hyphae (if present in compost) when brewed for 18 to 24 hours. When using our fungal inhabited vermicompost, the optimum time seems to be 18 hours for a bacteria/archaea and fungal brew. If brewed for 30 to 36 hours (and up to 42 to 48 hours if you have a microscope) there will be flagellates and amoebae (& some ciliates) as well, providing a functioning microbial consortia which is better for nutrient cycling in the soil/root interface. Because of the variations in brewing compost tea, it is better to examine the microbial content with a microscope and decide at what period of the brew you should apply it but if you do not have a microscope then use the CT between the time periods mentioned above for the desired effects.
Extras (when using extras you may wish to adjust amounts of other ingredients to avoid overload)
*pyrophyllite clay powder – 0.063% - (120 ml), (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
This is a good ingredient to stimulate more bacteria/archaea diversity which seems to experimentally contribute to disease control. It can be found here at a reasonable price. http://www.continentalclay.com/detail.php?PID=695&cat_id=197&sub_categoryID=4
*alfalfa meal – up to 0.25% (.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
This promotes the growth of flagellates and amoebae and is also a fungal food. Just get the cheap stuff by the bag at the feed store, checking that it does not contain anti-microbials
*Canadian sphagnum peat moss Premier Brand – throw in a handful or two to promote flagellates and amoebae and/or fungal hyphae. Batches are inconsistent, so unless you have a microscope you won’t be sure which set of microbes it will promote but I have never seen anything bad.
[SIZE=+2][SIZE=+1]B/ Fungal Dominant;[/SIZE] [/SIZE]
*compost/vermicompost (fungal content) - 2.38% max. (4.5 liters), (19 cups US), (4.5 quarts US)
*unsulphured pure black strap molasses - 0.25% (475 ml rounded), (2 cups US), (0.5 quart US)
NOTE: Also experiment with eliminating black strap molasses. Recent trials have shown that with some types of compost the fungi does better. If you have a microscope check it out for yourself.
NOTE: If you have activated your compost with oat flour I recommend NOT using molasses in addition to fish hydrolysate unless you are willing to brew for a longer period and best to have a microscope.
*fish hydrolysate(high quality) - 0.190% - (360 ml) (12 ounces) Do not use chemically deodorized liquid fish! You may experiment using slightly higher amounts.
*kelp meal - 0.25% max. (.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
NOTE: This is a maximum amount of kelp and you can experiment using less. This is using regular grade kelp meal for livestock. If you have soluble kelp, I recommend using smaller amounts. Sometimes kelp meal can initially delay bacterial multiplication.
*rock phosphate granules/powder - 0.063% - (120 ml), (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
NOTE: We seem to get the same results using 100 ml of rock phosphate but experiment yourself. Sometimes we run the rock phosphate granules through the electric coffee grinder to get a fine powder.
Extras (when using extras you may wish to adjust amounts of other ingredients to avoid overload)
* Humic acid - I am no longer recommending the use of humic acid in compost tea, as I've not seen any benefits from doing so. Better to apply it directly to the soil.
*you could also add one of the Alaska ‘Humus’ products and/or Canadian sphagnum Premier brand at 0.25% or less. If there are fungi spores present in the substance, hyphae should grow.
*you may add a little soil or partially/completely decomposed forest litter (rotted leaves, wood pieces). If you are applying CT to grass or flowers use some local soil from a healthy (unmanipulated by man) area where similar plant species are doing well. If you are applying to deciduous trees or bushes then gather some soil or forest litter from a deciduous forest where the forest appears healthy and has that…you know… fabulous earthy odor. I recommend using 500 ml. (0.5 liter) or 2 cups to begin with and see how that works out. Careful to not use big chunks if using the Microbulator 50.
Length of Brew
Brew until fungal hyphae is observed with a microscope or for 18 to 24 hours. When using our fungal inhabited vermicompost, the optimum time seems to be 18 hours for a bacteria/archaea and fungal brew, however fungal hyphae is extracted at 10 hours with less bacteria/archaea present. If you want a fungal dominant brew this may be the best time to apply. For those of you with microscopes, check it out. This recipe, provided there are fungi spores in your compost, should produce a higher volume of fungal hyphae and reduced bacteria/archaea numbers.
