LED DIY : Making of a "DJ SET "-style grow led light .

[stardustsailor]

.....
Is that the right one ?
Like it ?
......
...
Can we continue now , with the daisy chain design ?
;-P

 

[stardustsailor]

Ok ......that NAC3PX connector is ...huge ....
I can't fit it anywhere ....

Any other ideas ?

 

[stardustsailor]

And the SSL CP7P Family model ...
...

(Not my work,either ..
That is original Osram's work ...
I've just added the colors and scale it (it was more than 2 meters wide !!!
So no to "loose it easy , in the virtual 3D space " ,while they 're designing it ...)

..Conversion of a STEP ( .stp ) file into SketchUp file via " SimLab Step Importer for S.Up "..plug-in....
Free for 15 conversions ..I've spend two,already ... )

P.S. : do not erase the "oslon ssl Cp7P " indicative sign ,until after you've "fixed" in group or component the led(s) ....
Otherwise you've "lost" it -very easy -in a vast "empty "virtual sketch up ...space .....
( I do not know how to find them,afterwards .... ..So i put a mark that is always showing ...)

 

[stardustsailor]

OK.....

Ebmpapst S-Force ...

http://www.ebmpapst.com/en/products/product-news/s-force/s-force.html

http://www.ebmpapst.com/media/content/products_1/product_news/s-force/downloads_8/S-Force_brochure_EN.pdf


Edit : Nevermind ...We can all S-For-get it .....

90Watts !!! lowest power with 76 dB ....Yeah right ...I bet also ,that the panel will not need hanging cords ..
It will just float into the air ,like a hovercraft .....(just kiddin' there ..)

..
finding a good ( and appropriate ...) fan is way tougher than I firstly thought it will be ..
Shhhhh.....tttttttt....

 

[stardustsailor]

Guod I'll fix and upload the NAC3FPX & NAC3MPX ,from the "powerCon True1" family of Neutrik power connectors ...
Have to go to sleep now ...Sun is rising .... ....

 

[stardustsailor]

Oh..
Brother Guod ...
I've another favor (and task ) for you...
For the analog version of electronics ,you have to choose
an appropriate potentiometer from Alps...

From here : http://www.alps.com/WebObjects/catalog.woa/E/HTML/Potentiometer/RotaryPotentiometers/RotaryPotentiometers_list1.html

Choose a series ,then the model that suits the needs of the electronics ..
So to download the 3D Cad file of it and convert it into a sketch up model ...
( a model can be as close as 99.9 % to possible real reproduction .
The more parts are with their "real-life " dimensions ,the better the estimations and the designing .. )

So we need ASAP ,a ....potential.....potentiometer ...

 

[PetFlora]

Guod I'll fix and upload the NAC3FPX & NAC3MPX ,from the "powerCon True1" family of Neutrik power connectors ...
Have to go to sleep now ...Sun is rising .... ....

View attachment 2507187

When I owned Genesis V speakers they had a separate remote controlled power amp for the woofers. They used similar Neutrix between amp and woofers. Solid firm contact. I don't know why this isn't standard for all hi-end components

 

[stardustsailor]

Yes ....
Oh ...
I feel so tired ....

(Not eating good,not sleeping enough ,>20 joints per day ,no job ,no girlfriend ...
But the worse .....Not even one of these panels ! )

Anyway ..
Guod's right ...
They are the best power connectors available ...

I've to fix the two smaller connectors (inlet/outlet ) and use both of them instead of the "daisy chain" one..
(which is HUGE ! It does not fit anywhere in the box ! )...

What's wrong having the same connectors in two pieces instead of one ?
At least if they fit why not ?

First coffeee and a joint ....


Myshelf I think I've seen those connectors plenty of times ,but never paid any attention to them ...
I think they are vastly used here ...Almost in all industrial devices and machinery ..

Great connectors ...

16 A is not a small Amperage ..
....
Plus another "item " from High end components ..
Alps potentiometers ...
Almost 100% of hi-fi and audio hi-end devices ,bear them ...

Awesome quality electronic parts ...

Guod has to choose the right one/most appropriate and then it will be , in short while,in our model here ...

I want to make the model as close to real as possible ...

-Heatsink : model Fischer ElectroniK SK85 / Normabox ST20 model 100% accurately modelled
-Angles ,rivets,screws,plate all are almost 100% accurately modelled (angles have EN 10056 RSA standard sizes )
-Buck drivers are 100% accurately modelled (for their dimensions )
-Now we have the powerCon True1" connectors ..
-Potentiometer 100% accurate model can be found also ....
-Led model is from Osram itshelf ...
-Pcb ,is easy to model ,almost 100% accurate ...
...

Fan ....Only the model of the fan is an approximation of the one to be really used ...
But then ,those fans ,come in standard sizes also ...
Hard to design something wrong ,there ....

So the complete model will be a really accurate representation of the real ones ,to be made ...
And when you are making the whole thing ,virtually ...
When time comes to build the real thing ....
It will be like you've done it 100 times before..
You are already familiar with the whole procedure and manufacturing steps ..
....

But most important aspect it is the whole designing ability itshelf ,anyways ...

 

[PetFlora]

You do not want them too close together as it's ~ 1/2 turn to lock/unlock. Tough for big fingers

 

[guod]

You do not want them too close together as it's ~ 1/2 turn to lock/unlock. Tough for big fingers

nop, what you mean are SpeakCON, they use a 1/2 turn to lock. PowerCon locks directly and need a press on a button to unlock.

 

[guod]

Ok ......that NAC3PX connector is ...huge ....
I can't fit it anywhere ....

Any other ideas ?

Daisy chain on this side of the Power-Supply and at this Power-Level, a bad idea!
each Modul has to be designed for 8A, because we don´t know which will come first in the Chain
so each light needs a big connector(PowerCON)and heavy wires to connect them


a Solution is a Distributor-Box, one cable goes into the tent in a box above the lights. from here short cables going to the lights.
here we need only one PowerCON for the input, the rest can be XLR
this Idea is also limited, i would not go higher then 6 outlets (about 12A) on one Distributor.
Daisy chain the Distributors is also forbidden.

 

[stardustsailor]

Have you downloaded the model NAC3PX to play a bit with ?
Brother ,this thing is big ....!!!

 

[stardustsailor]

Ok ......that NAC3PX connector is ...huge ....
I can't fit it anywhere ....

Any other ideas ?

Daisy chain on this side of the Power-Supply and at this Power-Level, a bad idea!
each Modul has to be designed for 8A, because we don´t know which will come first in the Chain
so each light needs a big connector(PowerCON)and heavy wires to connect them
View attachment 2507509

a Solution is a Distributor-Box, one cable goes into the tent in a box above the lights. from here short cables going to the lights.
here we need only one PowerCON for the input, the rest can be XLR
this Idea is also limited, i would not go higher then 6 outlets (about 12A) on one Distributor.
Daisy chain the Distributors is also forbidden.

View attachment 2507510

So which one will be ?
Oh...Tough call this one ....

I'm inclined towards ...

But hey !


Those connectors ...Are not connecting appliances in a row (in-line ) .....
Daisy chain isn't a parallel connection ?
It is not "bridging " .....

So In the first case ....
You can have connected as many panels in a row as it will be allowed by :
-connectors
-daisy chain interconnect cables ...
-power supply ....

Connector NAC3PX has contacts only for the inlet .....
those contacts are parallel connected with the outlet plug ,which does not have anything behind ...(insulated ) ..
So .....
First case is possible ..up to 16A regarding the connectors ...
If cables withstand the same or more ....
And if the power supply can provide those 16 A ...
Then I do not see any problem there ...

First case is better and less devices built ...
But ..
We can not use the NAC3PX connector ...
We have to use both FPX/ MPX instead ..
If 16 A is wanted ,then those two connectors should be bridged ,with short and really thick and good insulated pieces of wire ...
Only if 16 A is wanted ....

Edit ...:
Wrong pic ,mistake ....
Yes .... First in row interconnect cables of daisy chain and first plugs ,are of greater pressure than the rest ..or last
You're right .....

 

[guod]

Brother ,this thing is big ....!!!
yeah i know

some words to the Fanan4414 FL will do the Job. the Higher Voltage that this fan need is a benefit because we had to lower the Voltage from 48V. more loss if we use a 12V Fan(36V loss against 20V) cuts down the Heat of the Voltage Reg. by 50%

a nice simulator for Heatsinks
http://www.abl-heatsinks.co.uk/index.php?page=extrudedproduct&product=13
airflow calculator for this
http://www.comairrotron.com/airflow-unit-conversion

working space for this fan


94m³ is for free airflow, pressing the Air between the Fins we will see a value of about 50 to 60m³/h(estimated)
the Airflow Calc. says 2m/s for this value
putting this values into the sim gives us a Rth 0.146K/W.
75W* on this Heatsink/fan-combo results in 10K over Ambient

the chip-Temp of the Oslons at 25°C Ambient will about 60°C with this fan.


*worst case... eff. of the Leds here 0%, all the Power goes up in heat.

 

[stardustsailor]

- 1) How easy is to find this fan ? (here in EU ...A link ..? An e-shop ? ) ..
Can we find a 3d cad file of the fan ?

-2 ) Thanx for the sims ....

-3 ) pick an Alps potentiometer model ...I need a model of thepotentiometer ,to have ....
To estimate better the free space for electronics and connectors ..

- 4 ) Why I can't find people like you more often around me ?

- 5 ) I'll have a look at the sims and the heatsink-fan thing later ....(I'm tireeeeeedd...)

- 6 ) I 'll upload them shortly ,painted version ...But not scaled in their real -life dimensions ....(easy to handle ,until "grouping " ..)

 

[guod]

To estimate the free space in a case i build simple boxes where the components fit easily in (little space around them)
with this i start the Puzzle of placing them.
if i find a solution then i start the fine tuning and going for Details

that´s my way.

 

[stardustsailor]

Oh ...Ok ...
I used to do that also ,sometimes ...
But now ,I've SketchUp ..
Though,still I get often the ...." lego syndrome " ...
But ,since it;s images,at both cases , that we are "viewing" inside our brains ...
So ,..I like also the image of 'painted 3D models" .....
Much more accurate ..and pleasant to the brain ...-than small little carton boxes or legos(that I'm using often ...)
....
Ok...

....



Can't we pick a potentiometer though ,appropriate for the boxe's electronics (if analog dimming ...) ..?

All we need to know is the range of Ohms ...Isn't that so ?
I mean ..What the heck ? ..It's a potentiometer ...Basic variable is it's range of resistence ...
Which range will we need ..?
Or you 've first to figure out other things , before that ?
If so ,it can wait then ...
No rush-Less mistakes done ...




..PS : I 've corrected the coloring ,to match the real ones ...

 

[stardustsailor]

Wait ..You 're gonna laugh now ....
I'll give it a shot ....

No ...
Those bucks need PWM ...
So how with a potentiometer ,can one create or /and control a pulsed width modulation ?

Directly it is not doable ...Is it ?

No way ...

Potentiometer can be used to control a low voltage circuit ,which in turn will regulate a PWM generator ...
Which then sends the "signal" to buck-driver ...To dim it ...or switch it off-on ...

Ok ...
I give up ! ...
...
No potentiometer then ...


PS: 100% of PWM Duty cycle is same as >2.5 ~ 6VDC or open circuit,at DIM ~ -Vin ?
What is that range then ? 100 ~ 1KHz ? from what % to what % ?

Or it means 100% of PWM Duty cycle is an DC voltage('square') signal 2.5-6 V and freq of
1KHz ?
What is 100Hz ?
Oh....
I get it ..100 Hz is the min value ..The 210 mA .....
Ok ...

......
-PWM generator with output voltage 2.5-6 V
regulated by low voltage circuit .
-Potentiometer
-Power supply .(47 V ) (for both supplying power to PWM generator and it's low voltage regulating circuit...)
......

Hmm....

Ah....I prefer chlorophyll,microscopes , cells ,test tubes ,ect .....
What the heck I'm doing in 3D modelling and electronics ?
Neither is my " thing "......

 

[guod]

How easy is to find this fan ? (here in EU ...A link ..? An e-shop ? ) ..
http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ebm-papst/4414FL/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvuXzJ9NcThanDqKRDxPVQdbqj%2bq6vyM4Q=

All we need to know is the range of Ohms ...Isn't that so ?
dimension for pots are equal, anything between 1K to 10K is possible
------------------------------------------------------------------

the microproz. is out of the race for this project
this means also no speed regulation for the fan.

i changed the Bucks to some simpler ones, makes things easier
nearly same size, only a pot and we are done.

http://www.recom-lighting.com/uploads/tx_ohledcalc/RCD-48.pdf
http://www.recom-international.com/pdf/Lightline/RCD-48.pdf

 

[stardustsailor]

How easy is to find this fan ? (here in EU ...A link ..? An e-shop ? ) ..
http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ebm-papst/4414FL/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvuXzJ9NcThanDqKRDxPVQdbqj%252bq6vyM4Q%3d

All we need to know is the range of Ohms ...Isn't that so ?
dimension for pots are equal, anything between 1K to 10K is possible
------------------------------------------------------------------

the microproz. is out of the race for this project
this means also no speed regulation for the fan.

i changed the Bucks to some simpler ones, makes things easier
nearly same size, only a pot and we are done.

http://www.recom-lighting.com/uploads/tx_ohledcalc/RCD-48.pdf
http://www.recom-international.com/pdf/Lightline/RCD-48.pdf

OMG !

Now ,I'm meltin' like butter ......


Work to do tonight ....
(Was thinking going having a beer ,maybe meet a girl ,or whatever ....Shhh..ttt...Dunno ...As it comes .... )