World Of Hempy

Rusty Shakelford

Well-Known Member
Here is a quick look at my world of hempy (Veg style)
I have some 100 peralite, some 100% Coco, my final Dirt, and some blends of Turface/Peralite & Coco/Peralite, and 2 DWC buckets to round it off

So far it looks like the Coco takes off a bit quicker but looks pretty even once they hit the rez.

I am also trying a few ladies with main-lining and took a shot of some roots with my turbo cloner for fun
View attachment 2452211View attachment 2452212
I got your +Rep on this one.. I need to spread it around anyway.. Keep us updated on how the various mediums work out.
 

Rusty Shakelford

Well-Known Member
Rusty, how is your scrog going? Any updated pics?
Thanks for asking Dank!

I switched to flower one week ago today. Here is some shots from last Wed (19th)

20121219_071204.jpg20121219_071127.jpg20121219_071150.jpg

I should have another week or so of Stretch, and figure that will pretty much fill out the screen.. They are now Popping Pistils all over the place, so I guess all seems to be going well!! I fed transition nutes all last week 800ppm (.5), and switch to Bloom nutes tomorrow :mrgreen:

I left the 400w CMH Bulb in place, and will continue using it throughout flowering. :peace:
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
January is coming around and hopefully I won't keep pushing my grow back but anyways trying to get y'all's opinion on my 2l hemp grow. 3x600's or 2x1000's in a 5x9 tent.
Why not start with 2x600 just to until you get off the ground? 1000's are too hot for 2L.

Hey rocket, stop putting it off man, start buying the equipment and you'll have to follow it through. :peace:
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
Gladiator! lol...

So I am coming up on the harvest of my first 7 aurora in 2l hempy... How does everyone else wash their perilite/verm medium out after a grow? I saw on 420fied's thread that he washed it in a rubbermaid tub with a bunch of small holes drilled in the bottom. Any other techniques that WOH members use? China caps? Ultra fine strainers? So excited that I don't have to go out and buy soil for the next round!
I use coarse perlite so my screen won't work with real fine perlite. I put screen over wheelbarrow or tub and rinse with the garden hose.

HempyBreakdown 002rui2L.jpgperlite screen 2riu.jpgperlite screen 1riu.jpg
 

Attachments

Nizza

Well-Known Member
i have a 5gal bucket with holes in the bottom. if im scared things are gonna fall through i drop in a few pieces of burlap. I wash my coco and perlite and stuff in this homemade bucket just by putting it in the bathroom under running water :)
 

Shivaskunk

Well-Known Member
So i have about 2/3 of my harvest in jars now. The tops are still hanging but ready to trim when i get a chance. My two dankest strains on notebook. Thats one plant o blue dream on left and two plants elephant on right minus tops. BD crops much heavier. average of 20 grams per when flowered at about 8 inches tall compared to about 9 on elephants...but elephant is insanely delicious and potent. 307 grams dry in jars and tops from 23 plants still need trimmed. Much better than last harvest. Ill never flower BD tall under 600s again. This stuff is amazing herb and i think if i run 30 BD at about 12 inches when flipped that i can pull 2 lbs plus from 2 600s. My jack crosses all selfed at the end but got some very nice smoke from them. Oh and my fall colored trim should make great tincture. IMG_20121222_171513.jpgIMG_20121222_171444.jpgsecuredownload-162.jpgIMG_20121222_020019.jpg
 

drdank50

Well-Known Member
Shiva, excellent buds bro! Tried to +rep ya but I still need to spread the love for some reason :(. I'll get ya soon! Looks like you are the first of the purple hempys! Congratulations and can't wait to hear the report!

Edited:

How much stretch did you get on the BD? I have an S1 from Cali connection and it's a stretchy lil bitch even in veg!
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
:leaf::leaf::leaf::leaf::leaf:Guide to growing with Coco - by House&Garden:leaf::leaf::leaf::leaf::leaf:

Coco coir is the outside layer of husk that surrounds the shell of the coconut. After coconuts are harvested, the fibrous husk is removed from the coconut seed. From this husk, three main horticultural coir products can be produced: coir chips, coir fiber or coir pith/dust. Coir dust retains water well while the fibers and chips help with air space and drainage.

There are many brands and types of coco coir available on the market. We recommend that you use only buffered coir products, as coco coir naturally contains a lot of sodium ions that cling to the coco coir like a magnet. The buffering process involves pre-soaking with a buffering solution high in calcium, which displaces the sodium and balances the naturally occurring potassium. After the soaking period the media is washed with water, which removes the displaced sodium, leaving the calcium in the coir. This buffering process prevents unwanted draw down or ‘lockout’ of calcium and magnesium, and avoids sodium toxicity issues. These selections of coir products are made from high quality coconuts and use unique buffering processes to ensure the health of your crop.


10 Benefits of Coco:

  • Promotes strong root growth and plant vigor.
  • Coco coir is completely environmentally friendly.
  • Encourages beneficial bacteria and discourages harmful bacteria.
  • It is a 100% renewable resource
  • Coco has an ideal pH range of 6.0-6.8.
  • Coco coir never shrinks, cracks or produces crust
  • High lingin and cellulose content
  • Coco coir is odorless, pleasant to handle, and uniform in composition.
  • Coir has a high cation exchange, meaning it can store unused minerals to be released to the plant as and when it requires it.
  • Contains significant amounts of phosphorous (10-50ppm) and potassium (150-450 ppm).

Coco coir has many unique physical and chemical properties that actually make typical hydroponic nutrients less than ideal. This is because coco coir growing media interacts with nutrients and holds onto calcium and magnesium while slowly releasing potassium and nitrogen instead. For this reason there are several nutrients that are specifically formulated with the coco coir’s unique characteristics in mind. These formulas contain far less potassium, less sulfate, more calcium, and more magnesium than their standard grow and bloom counterparts. By using a nutrient specifically formulated for the coir-based system, such as House & Garden’s Cocos A+B, you are ensuring that your plants are receiving the best possible nutrition package. Only high quality coco coir nutrients will ensure that your plants receive the nutrients and elements they require for strong and healthy growth.
Furthermore, coconuts are naturally high in compounds called lignins. This compound is able to help encourage the development of beneficial bacteria, which makes it less likely for harmful bacteria to invade your system. This also means that if you choose to use a hydroponic supplement that contains beneficial microbes, they are more likely to grow, thrive, and benefit your system. These organisms, such as bacillus, mycorrhizae and trichoderma all form symbiotic relationships with the plant that can increase overall performance and yield. Bacillus is used world wide for the control of insect pests and opportunistic fungi pathogens. Mycorrhizae are beneficial fungi that colonize the root surface, helping the plant take up nutrients.
Many forms of coco coir also contain trichoderma and if a healthy root environment is maintained, the bacteria will continue to colonize the roots and multiply in the growing media. Trichoderma works in symbiosis with plant roots to protect them from pathogenic fungi such as pythium or fusarium. These characteristics can boost yields by decreasing disease organisms. Since Trichoderma grow and proliferate best when there are abundant healthy roots, they have evolved numerous mechanisms for both attack of other fungi and for enhancing plant and root growth. As coco coir is a natural habitat for trichoderma, it provides an ideal environment for trichoderma to thrive.


When using beneficial microbes, always use reverse osmosis (RO) water, which removes harmful chemicals that can kill the beneficial microorganisms. Tap water often contains chlorine and chloramine to kill harmful biologicals. Unfortunately this indiscriminately kills beneficial bacteria. Reverse osmosis units can remove up to 99.9% of tap water impurities including phosphate, nitrate, minerals, and heavy metals for contaminant-free water. Your beneficial microorganisms will thrive and be at their healthiest population by removing these harmful substances.

However, reverse osmosis water is so pure that it is depleted of essential trace elements and minerals, which must be added back to the nutrient solution. Furthermore, calcium and magnesium are both naturally attracted to bind to coco coir, causing them to become unavailable to plants. To compensate for this, it is important that you add some form of a calcium/magnesium supplement to your nutrient solution, especially if you are using reverse osmosis water.
Coco coir is an ideal medium for encouraging roots to develop to their full potential due to its high levels of aeration, naturally occurring trichoderma and remarkable drainage properties. Its high buffer capacity also assures that coco coir will hold and release nutrients over extended periods of time, optimizing plant growth.


http://www.house-garden.us/articles/guide-to-growing-in-coco/
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
I use coarse perlite so my screen won't work with real fine perlite. I put screen over wheelbarrow or tub and rinse with the garden hose.
Wattsaver, nice lawn there bro....I know from experience what you do when you aren't tweaking your MMJ grows.....
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
Here is a quick look at my world of hempy (Veg style)
I have some 100 peralite, some 100% Coco, my final Dirt, and some blends of Turface/Peralite & Coco/Peralite, and 2 DWC buckets to round it off

So far it looks like the Coco takes off a bit quicker but looks pretty even once they hit the rez.

I am also trying a few ladies with main-lining and took a shot of some roots with my turbo cloner for fun
View attachment 2452211View attachment 2452212
+Rep from me too...I'de love to run that many mediums in comparison.....it's personally my favorite topic of interest with hempy's. It such a simple/robust grow method...other than different strains, seems the only things left to play with are different nutrients and what medium they grow in.
 

drdank50

Well-Known Member
So I've been just scouring the internet for a deal on a new 600 watt ballast. I want to go as big as I can for the 3x3x6 tent I'm currently using. To maximize height and yield I was wondering what suggestions would be had here at WOH since I will be graduating from 2L and moving more towards 1-2 gal buckets (thankfully they come black!) I would like these to be about 3' tall and I'll be trimming the undergrowth. Looking to pull about .5-.75 g per watt as a goal. Appreciate the guidance!
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
:leaf::leaf::leaf::leaf::leaf:Guide to growing with Coco - by House&Garden:leaf::leaf::leaf::leaf::leaf:

Coco coir is the outside layer of husk that surrounds the shell of the coconut. After coconuts are harvested, the fibrous husk is removed from the coconut seed. From this husk, three main horticultural coir products can be produced: coir chips, coir fiber or coir pith/dust. Coir dust retains water well while the fibers and chips help with air space and drainage.

There are many brands and types of coco coir available on the market. We recommend that you use only buffered coir products, as coco coir naturally contains a lot of sodium ions that cling to the coco coir like a magnet. The buffering process involves pre-soaking with a buffering solution high in calcium, which displaces the sodium and balances the naturally occurring potassium. After the soaking period the media is washed with water, which removes the displaced sodium, leaving the calcium in the coir. This buffering process prevents unwanted draw down or ‘lockout’ of calcium and magnesium, and avoids sodium toxicity issues. These selections of coir products are made from high quality coconuts and use unique buffering processes to ensure the health of your crop.


10 Benefits of Coco:

  • Promotes strong root growth and plant vigor.
  • Coco coir is completely environmentally friendly.
  • Encourages beneficial bacteria and discourages harmful bacteria.
  • It is a 100% renewable resource
  • Coco has an ideal pH range of 6.0-6.8.
  • Coco coir never shrinks, cracks or produces crust
  • High lingin and cellulose content
  • Coco coir is odorless, pleasant to handle, and uniform in composition.
  • Coir has a high cation exchange, meaning it can store unused minerals to be released to the plant as and when it requires it.
  • Contains significant amounts of phosphorous (10-50ppm) and potassium (150-450 ppm).

Coco coir has many unique physical and chemical properties that actually make typical hydroponic nutrients less than ideal. This is because coco coir growing media interacts with nutrients and holds onto calcium and magnesium while slowly releasing potassium and nitrogen instead. For this reason there are several nutrients that are specifically formulated with the coco coir’s unique characteristics in mind. These formulas contain far less potassium, less sulfate, more calcium, and more magnesium than their standard grow and bloom counterparts. By using a nutrient specifically formulated for the coir-based system, such as House & Garden’s Cocos A+B, you are ensuring that your plants are receiving the best possible nutrition package. Only high quality coco coir nutrients will ensure that your plants receive the nutrients and elements they require for strong and healthy growth.
Furthermore, coconuts are naturally high in compounds called lignins. This compound is able to help encourage the development of beneficial bacteria, which makes it less likely for harmful bacteria to invade your system. This also means that if you choose to use a hydroponic supplement that contains beneficial microbes, they are more likely to grow, thrive, and benefit your system. These organisms, such as bacillus, mycorrhizae and trichoderma all form symbiotic relationships with the plant that can increase overall performance and yield. Bacillus is used world wide for the control of insect pests and opportunistic fungi pathogens. Mycorrhizae are beneficial fungi that colonize the root surface, helping the plant take up nutrients.
Many forms of coco coir also contain trichoderma and if a healthy root environment is maintained, the bacteria will continue to colonize the roots and multiply in the growing media. Trichoderma works in symbiosis with plant roots to protect them from pathogenic fungi such as pythium or fusarium. These characteristics can boost yields by decreasing disease organisms. Since Trichoderma grow and proliferate best when there are abundant healthy roots, they have evolved numerous mechanisms for both attack of other fungi and for enhancing plant and root growth. As coco coir is a natural habitat for trichoderma, it provides an ideal environment for trichoderma to thrive.


When using beneficial microbes, always use reverse osmosis (RO) water, which removes harmful chemicals that can kill the beneficial microorganisms. Tap water often contains chlorine and chloramine to kill harmful biologicals. Unfortunately this indiscriminately kills beneficial bacteria. Reverse osmosis units can remove up to 99.9% of tap water impurities including phosphate, nitrate, minerals, and heavy metals for contaminant-free water. Your beneficial microorganisms will thrive and be at their healthiest population by removing these harmful substances.

However, reverse osmosis water is so pure that it is depleted of essential trace elements and minerals, which must be added back to the nutrient solution. Furthermore, calcium and magnesium are both naturally attracted to bind to coco coir, causing them to become unavailable to plants. To compensate for this, it is important that you add some form of a calcium/magnesium supplement to your nutrient solution, especially if you are using reverse osmosis water.
Coco coir is an ideal medium for encouraging roots to develop to their full potential due to its high levels of aeration, naturally occurring trichoderma and remarkable drainage properties. Its high buffer capacity also assures that coco coir will hold and release nutrients over extended periods of time, optimizing plant growth.


http://www.house-garden.us/articles/guide-to-growing-in-coco/
Spread that coco love Moe! There are so many good reasons out there for perlite/vermiculite hempy's....but outside of "world peace" and "world hunger", here's a X-mas wish that every hempy enthusiast has the chance to do a coco run just for the fun of the science and the surprise of a good tasting and bountiful yield. This was not so eloquently presented by Dahli Hempy himself. I'm lucky to have followed his advice based on the high flames in his coco conversion thread and his instantaneous, trite and temperamental responses to his flame-war "challengers". In some places coco is simply not available or convenient to use and I understand that. But sometimes I think that some folks have a hard time wrapping their minds around something "brown" in a hydro growing scheme, after all, a lot of us are venturing that dramatic escape from dirt and soil growing.
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
So I've been just scouring the internet for a deal on a new 600 watt ballast. I want to go as big as I can for the 3x3x6 tent I'm currently using. To maximize height and yield I was wondering what suggestions would be had here at WOH since I will be graduating from 2L and moving more towards 1-2 gal buckets (thankfully they come black!) I would like these to be about 3' tall and I'll be trimming the undergrowth. Looking to pull about .5-.75 g per watt as a goal. Appreciate the guidance!
Lumatek digital ballast are well proven in my medically legal "neck of the woods".....but do be aware of the 600W heat in your 3x3x6 unless you live somewhere cold or have some good CFM exhaust no's. on your vented hood. I can heat up a 2.5' x 4.5' x 7' tent real fast with a Digilux 400w lamp and a 4" 160CFM fan...but I do live in a hot/arid climate...so I run 400W HPS in wintertime and 2- 180W LED's in the summer months.
 

Shivaskunk

Well-Known Member
Drdank, flowered at 8 inches still had some reach about 2 feet. When i flowered at about 18 inches tall one grew to 52 inches.
 

justanotherbozo

Well-Known Member
So I've been just scouring the internet for a deal on a new 600 watt ballast. I want to go as big as I can for the 3x3x6 tent I'm currently using. To maximize height and yield I was wondering what suggestions would be had here at WOH since I will be graduating from 2L and moving more towards 1-2 gal buckets (thankfully they come black!) I would like these to be about 3' tall and I'll be trimming the undergrowth. Looking to pull about .5-.75 g per watt as a goal. Appreciate the guidance!
high man, here's a link to a guy i know who just finished a run in a similar space where he pulled better than a gram per, ...he ran 2x 400s stacked barebulb, ...he just started the next run and this run he's using a 600 over one of the 400s but that's another thread, lol.

Blumats, vert, n' dirt

peace, bozo

...the link to that second thread is in his sig if you're interested and feel free to chime in, he's a fun guy and welcomes all civil discourse.

...you might could check out some of the links in the sigs of the people who post in his threads as well, he has some VERY gifted friends.
 

drdank50

Well-Known Member
Lumatek digital ballast are well proven in my medically legal "neck of the woods".....but do be aware of the 600W heat in your 3x3x6 unless you live somewhere cold or have some good CFM exhaust no's. on your vented hood. I can heat up a 2.5' x 4.5' x 7' tent real fast with a Digilux 400w lamp and a 4" 160CFM fan...but I do live in a hot/arid climate...so I run 400W HPS in wintertime and 2- 180W LED's in the summer months.
Jela10, I currently have a dimmable lumatek 250/400 and I put a bid on a nextgen 400/600 dimmable ballast. Nextgen is a reputable brand just like Lumatek. Heat won't be an issue because I live in a colder climate. There is snow on the ground if that's any consolation :)
 

steeliesteve

Active Member
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