Root Aphids.

[purklize]

My biggest fear is them building a resistance and me producing some kind of super root aphid.

Use my method. It's cheaper, non-toxic (you really shouldn't be using Imid!!! it's not approved for food, and lingers for a year+ in the plant!) and they don't build resistance, it's impossible because the whole idea is to drown them. I spent a HUGE amount of time researching solutions and months battling them. My method is so easy it's a complete joke. The hardest part is switching to hydro if you're not already doing it. Since you're already in hydro you could do it right now... a dash of rosemary or peppermint oil, a squirt of soap, and some water... soak the roots deeply enough that the hydroton starts to float... 10 minutes later, 100% are dead. Lift and drain and you'll see them pour off by the thousands. Your plant will be exploding with fresh growth in 2 days.

I wouldn't wish them on my worst enemy!

I would.

 

[AvonBarksdale]

Well, I went to war tonight.

Sorry purklize, but I went the Imid route because everything I researched seemed to suggest it was the best. I feel like your method would help diminish the populations greatly, but never 100% kill them because of the ones hanging out in the tray and reservoir.

So I ended up doing 40ml/gallon in a dunk submersion for 2 minutes each on all 12 plants. I definitely got some of the small black ones killed and floating in my green Imid solution. It was harder to see the smaller translucent ones in there, but I'm sure I got a bunch of them. So I did that, then I added 20mL/gallon to my rez's, and I'm running to more times tonight for 15 minutes a piece. I'll go lights out with no feedings, hoping they absorb the Imid good, then when lights on tomorrow, I'll flush and change out new solution.

I'm really freaking out though now. I barely saw about 6 black mature ones come up in all that, and not many of the smaller translucent ones either. It leads me to believe my plants have been infected with some kind of virus, either because of the aphids, or because they already had it and the RA's made it worse. I've heard about Tobacco Mosaic Virus, and similar MV's in cannabis, but nobody seems to know 100% if it's legit.

I'm also freaking out that I possibly have broad mites, which I've heard are even worse than RA's. The reason I say this is because after I ran the Imid flood tonight, I came back when it was dry, and I still noticed a few moving organisms... they were so freaking tiny though, like way tinier than any of those pictures I posted. But they did look similar under my jeweler's loupe.

 

[1337hacker]

Damn, sounds like your having one hell of a time. Good luck there, and yah Root aphids can open you up to all sorts of diseases I could see that being a problem... I wish I was more versed in the hydro stuff to help you out there man, I'll ask around a bit for you though.

 

[jcdws602]

It's ok to leave bayer in the res for a for a few days..........after you change out the bayer I recommend adding some beneficial microbes to help aid those beat up roots those aphids been munching on......I use orca or just brew one up.....

 

[J9BLACK]

I also got the nematodes and am about to deploy them

 

[YThor]

I'm really freaking out though now. I barely saw about 6 black mature ones come up in all that, and not many of the smaller translucent ones either. It leads me to believe my plants have been infected with some kind of virus, either because of the aphids, or because they already had it and the RA's made it worse. I've heard about Tobacco Mosaic Virus, and similar MV's in cannabis, but nobody seems to know 100% if it's legit.

Cannabis definitely supports a number of viruses, probably including TbMV. I don't see what your question is- whether root aphids are a vector for TbMV, or what.

 

[purklize]

All you have to do is find a way to seal off the rockwool from the air with a sheet of plastic, or do 2-3 dunks spaced apart by 5 days. It kills 100% of everything it comes in contact with. I only had to do one dunk. There are other problems where chemicals are the most effective route (such as powdery mildew) but this one is not one of them.

http://www.plosone.org/article/info:doi/10.1371/journal.pone.0032432 <-- Imid is in the class of pesticides that is neurotoxic to mammals... there's a reason it only says shrubs and roses on the bottle... you're poisoning yourself and your customers.

 

[1337hacker]

All you have to do is find a way to seal off the rockwool from the air with a sheet of plastic, or do 2-3 dunks spaced apart by 5 days. It kills 100% of everything it comes in contact with. I only had to do one dunk. There are other problems where chemicals are the most effective route (such as powdery mildew) but this one is not one of them.

http://www.plosone.org/article/info:doi/10.1371/journal.pone.0032432 <-- Imid is in the class of pesticides that is neurotoxic to mammals... there's a reason it only says shrubs and roses on the bottle... you're poisoning yourself and your customers.

The fact they never have veggies listed on the Bayer bottles always leaves me worried .. Bayer has a long history of human trials with their poisons, you can reference their human trials during the holocaust in which they were experimenting with drugs on imprisoned Jews in concentration camps...

I know a thread where someone's plants are getting raped by bugs isn't the place to talk about it, but Bayer is a pretty fucking evil company that I will never support or use in proximity to my plants. I'm gonna reserve judgement obviously in this instance, but definitely avoid smoking harmful chemicals or passing it along to others if it's gonna be part of the plant come harvest time.

 

[purklize]

People are too used to organic methods not working. But my method really works. I had thousands of root aphids and in one dunk, they were all gone. It's been a year and they haven't come back.

 

[1337hacker]

People are too used to organic methods not working. But my method really works. I had thousands of root aphids and in one dunk, they were all gone. It's been a year and they haven't come back.

I am 100 % organic from start to finish in my systems... I am well aware of the power of organics That being said, I'm not ready for a case of root aphids I hear they are a bitch to get out of soil

 

[purklize]

Yep you can't kill them in soil without resorting to Imid. It's one of the reasons I switched to DWC (which has been better in almost every way, including being less work).

 

[BeaverHuntr]

Yep you can't kill them in soil without resorting to Imid. It's one of the reasons I switched to DWC (which has been better in almost every way, including being less work).

I used to grow monsters in DWC it's the shizznit!

 

[jcdws602]

The fact they never have veggies listed on the Bayer bottles always leaves me worried .. Bayer has a long history of human trials with their poisons, you can reference their human trials during the holocaust in which they were experimenting with drugs on imprisoned Jews in concentration camps...

I know a thread where someone's plants are getting raped by bugs isn't the place to talk about it, but Bayer is a pretty fucking evil company that I will never support or use in proximity to my plants. I'm gonna reserve judgement obviously in this instance, but definitely avoid smoking harmful chemicals or passing it along to others if it's gonna be part of the plant come harvest time.

It is made for both veggies and fruits I think you are thinking of bayer tree and shrub.........IDK anything about test on jews.... : ( but this directly from their website

What trees or plants can Bayer Advanced&#8482; Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control Concentrate be applied to?

Fruit & Nut trees including Citrus, Apple, Peach, Cherry, Plum and others as listed on the label.
Vegetables including Tomato, Pepper, Carrot, Melon, Cucumber, Herbs, and others as listed on label.
Strawberry, Blueberry, Raspberry, Grape and others as listed on label.


When can treated edible crops be harvested?

See the label for plant specific restrictions for Pre-Harvest Interval.
If no Pre-Harvest Interval is listed, then Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control Concentrate may be applied up to and including day of harvest.

 

[jcdws602]

Yep you can't kill them in soil without resorting to Imid. It's one of the reasons I switched to DWC (which has been better in almost every way, including being less work).

ALMOST.....Except taste and aroma.....only get that from all organic soil grown budzz : )

 

[irieie]

It is made for both veggies and fruits I think you are thinking of bayer tree and shrub.........IDK anything about test on jews.... : ( but this directly from their website

What trees or plants can Bayer Advanced&#8482; Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control Concentrate be applied to?

Fruit & Nut trees including Citrus, Apple, Peach, Cherry, Plum and others as listed on the label.
Vegetables including Tomato, Pepper, Carrot, Melon, Cucumber, Herbs, and others as listed on label.
Strawberry, Blueberry, Raspberry, Grape and others as listed on label.


When can treated edible crops be harvested?

See the label for plant specific restrictions for Pre-Harvest Interval.
If no Pre-Harvest Interval is listed, then Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control Concentrate may be applied up to and including day of harvest.

For some reason I don't like to only listen to what the company who is selling me the product says about it. I am not saying the would lie, but words like "may be used" makes me wonder about misinformation. I always feel more comfortable researching the active ingredients on my own and then making conclusions based upon unbiased research about such ingredients. After all the medicine that I grow will be consumed by patients who are already sick and may have compromised immune systems, so pesticides and sprays which would not effect a healthy adult may have adverse effects on patients. This is just my opinion not meant to offend anyone.

 

[AvonBarksdale]

Yeah, I just want to clarify that I am using the Fruit and Vegetable version with a lower amount of Imid.

Everything I've read seems to suggest it's out of the plant in 30-45 days, and I'm only on Day 10 of a 63 day strain, so I feel like with proper flushings and feedings throughout the term, that it will be Imid free. I don't know where that could be tested, but I'm sure somebody does.

I definitely understand anyone not wanting to smoke something that's been treated with Imid, and next time I will try the organic dunk. This was just an emergency situation and my timing window was limited, had to act fast if going the Imid route.

 

[purklize]

http://www.ipmofnh.com/services/hemlock-woolly-adelgid/

• Imidacloprid is a systemic (a chemical that is taken up by the plant) and will travel within the plants vascular system to all parts of the plant where it will kill all the Hemlock Woolly Adelgid.
• Will stay in the plant and kill the pest for two years (some tests have shown that this can be a lot longer).

In the end it's up to whether the risk is worth it... I just don't really trust research on these pesticides as it's so often funded by the company with the patent, and it's so common for things that are "safe" to turn out to be amazingly bad for you (BPA for one).

 

[oldschooltofu]

i used mighty wash and MET 52 and i won last winter.

i also took clones and kept seperate and clean while the girls finished flowering, removed all soil. sterilized everything

add MET 52 after roots appear. its a fungus not a chemical.

 

[AvonBarksdale]

Well, here is the latest update.

I opened up the tent tonight, and sure enough, I still see some of those micro fuckers crawling around. You guys wouldn't believe how tiny these things are. Smaller than the head of a pin. Like ridiculously small. You would never know unless you were searching. They just look like flecks of dirt. But when I put them under my scope and illuminate them, they glow white, crawl like creepy critters, and have six legs and two long anntenae. And you can almost make out their evil little faces.

So frustrated, I mixed up a concentrated batch of SM-90 and spray all over the inside of my tray and pots again... a real good soaking. After I did that, the majority of them were gone. I know this is going to be a frustrating battle all the way to the end.

I just don't understand why I don't have the mature ones any more. Are these even root aphids? Did I have broad mites and root aphids? Am I just being paranoid? Are they some type of beneficial mite(not likely), ahhhhhhhh this is so frustrating. I couldn't even imagine doing a commercial grow and running into this issue. Another reason why they deserve to be paid six figures in my opinion.

Anyways, picking up some SNS-203 tomorrow which I believe is cinnamon and rosemary oil, so similar to your recipe man. I'm hoping a can at least stay on top of these fuckers for the remainder of this cycle.

After this, I'm getting my nuke on in this room. These things make my skin crawl.

 

[1337hacker]

wow man that totally sucks ;( i wishu could get us a picture of them or maybe you can find a picture that relates what you are seeing through the scope

I have had good success with an sns product I used in the past, you gonna follow purklize's instructions?