World Of Hempy

sk8ter.13

Member
i am currently prepping my hempy buckets, i will be using pots with a thick layer of clay pebbles at the bottom to act as a rez with a layer of perlite(floats) followed by the medium (coco/perlite mix (50/50)) thus creating a rez within the bucket, the hot topic on my mind is sealing the drainage holes, what would be best to do this with, i had thought about using silicone reading up on the stuff makes me think it is safe to use so long as i cap the inside of the hole with some food safe plastic material. is this correct? there will be holes at the top of the rez area to avoid overflow.
JAhphoon,for a hempy bucket you just want one single hole about two inches up from the bottom of the bucket, and it should not be sealed. You can place a screen over it if you want to keep the mix from washing out when you water, but don’t seal it shut.
 

sk8ter.13

Member
Do you guys think I should move the seedlings out of the bright lights of the veg room (which is 18 hours of light, not 24), and maybe just put the three of them back under a single 25 watt CFL like I had them when they first sprouted?
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
I have not fed them anything but plain water that has sat out several days. It is not likely that I splashed anything other than plain water on the leaves either; they have not been near any nutes at all.
I am ashamed to admit that I do not know the PH of my water, I have not been testing it since I began growing, because when I first read about Hempy Buckets, Hempy himself said that it wasn’t an issue in Hempy Buckets and didn’t matter, and I have not had any issues with the other strains I have been growing very successfully in hempy buckets the past few years. I do have a kit here for PH testing for aquariums, and I can test my water with it.
Thank you so much for the help guys!
When you have a dark brown (does the leaf feel like dried paper?) or the yellow starts in the leaf body, its some sort of disease or a lock out. I'm guessing your tap water is around 7 (city) or who knows if a well. You've been gowin' with this water for awhile so you know it won't kill the plants. Seedling are more fragile so a ph of 6 would be better if you could.

Did you have any bugs / gnats during the previous grow with the used medium? Adult plants can handle the gnats feedings on the roots but their larvae can kill a seedling. They are too young to try and clean the medium with bleach or H2O2. Hygrozme will clean and dissolve any dead roots.

If it were me (I am half crazy and the half we won't talk about) I'd ph down some water with a little food in it. If your sick you can't get well without the chicken noddle soup.
 

sky rocket

Well-Known Member
Sounds like 420fied's method.

It might be something to consider. I would'nt want to do it without understanding the logic behind it.... also the technique may be strain specific.

420fied does C99, I'm going to have to order some soon.
Yep that's exactly who I was talking about.
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
Do you guys think I should move the seedlings out of the bright lights of the veg room (which is 18 hours of light, not 24), and maybe just put the three of them back under a single 25 watt CFL like I had them when they first sprouted?
Low light couldn't hurt at this point.
 

sk8ter.13

Member
When you have a dark brown (does the leaf feel like dried paper?) or the yellow starts in the leaf body, its some sort of disease or a lock out. I'm guessing your tap water is around 7 (city) or who knows if a well. You've been gowin' with this water for awhile so you know it won't kill the plants. Seedling are more fragile so a ph of 6 would be better if you could.

Did you have any bugs / gnats during the previous grow with the used medium? Adult plants can handle the gnats feedings on the roots but their larvae can kill a seedling. They are too young to try and clean the medium with bleach or H2O2. Hygrozme will clean and dissolve any dead roots.

If it were me (I am half crazy and the half we won't talk about) I'd ph down some water with a little food in it. If your sick you can't get well without the chicken noddle soup.
Just the one seedling (Lemon OG) really has any brown on it, and just near the tips. The Purple OG has some yellowing, but no brown as of yet, and the C99 looks like it has a couple very tiny yellow spots and maybe one super tiny brown dot. The pictures I posted on the last page were taken this morning. Thankfully the leaves do not feel like dried paper yet, and it does not seem to be spreading too much into the middle or new growth.
Thankfully, (knock on wood), I have not experienced any issues with bugs or gnats that I have noticed. My grows up until this point have been relatively issue free other than some nute burn on flowering plants before getting it dialed in.
I tested my water and the PH looks to be about 6.8 to 7.0 to me, I do have city water. I do have PH down for aquariums here, would that be OK to use for the plants do you think?
You think I should PH some water down and mix in a very light strength nute feeding?
 

JAhphoon

Member
Forget the Pots with holes in the bottom,, get new buckets and drill a hole 2" up, and your done. I like to use food grade buckets myself.
cheers, food grade tubs are easily picked up but take time, i understand the 2" hole is for aeration, allowing the passive hydro to exist, i will make several to be safe

@sk8er.13 i wont be sealing the aeration holes only the original drainage holes.

my question is about sealants, i understand that chemical reactions can take place especially when using an epoxy or super glue as these use chemicals which are not suited for the environment at hand. many people who have homemade hydro setups have used Aquarium grade silicone, clear looking stuff but it is difficult to find info on how fulvic/humic acids at diluted levels affects silicone sealants. i feel confident that it should be safe, especially at such low levels,i am looking for clarification :)
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
I do have PH down for aquariums here, would that be OK to use for the plants do you think?
You think I should PH some water down and mix in a very light strength nute feeding?
Yes the aquarium ph down should be fine.
And I would add a little NPK, Moe mentioned at like 1/5 strength.

When I start my seeds for hempy use I start them in soil in little 2" pots, then build the cup around the soil core after they gotten 3 nodes going.
 

sk8ter.13

Member
Yes the aquarium ph down should be fine.
And I would add a little NPK, Moe mentioned at like 1/5 strength.

When I start my seeds for hempy use I start them in soil in little 2" pots, then build the cup around the soil core after they gotten 3 nodes going.
Thanks man, I really appreciate the advice.
Yeah, I started my first seeds like that in soil, and then transplanted the core into hempy cups, and had no problems. I think I will stick to doing it that way from now on. I thought it would be easier to start in the cubes and then just place them in the cups, but I was wrong. Fuck these rockwool cubes.
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
I just like the way that soil will carry the proper nutes for the first few wks. Its less to think about. Keep us posted on the outcome.
 

sk8ter.13

Member
Do you think I should just give them the light nute feeding one time, and then go back to plain water for a while, or start feeding them every watering from now on?
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
Do you think I should just give them the light nute feeding one time, and then go back to plain water for a while, or start feeding them every watering from now on?
If they respond well I'd keep feeding them. It's better to have a light continuous feeding, than to hammer them every other watering.
 

Rusty Shakelford

Well-Known Member
cheers, food grade tubs are easily picked up but take time, i understand the 2" hole is for aeration, allowing the passive hydro to exist, i will make several to be safe

@sk8er.13 i wont be sealing the aeration holes only the original drainage holes.

my question is about sealants, i understand that chemical reactions can take place especially when using an epoxy or super glue as these use chemicals which are not suited for the environment at hand. many people who have homemade hydro setups have used Aquarium grade silicone, clear looking stuff but it is difficult to find info on how fulvic/humic acids at diluted levels affects silicone sealants. i feel confident that it should be safe, especially at such low levels,i am looking for clarification :)
The hole is not necessarily for aeration, its simple overflow, so you dont fill the bucket to the top, and the 2" res does not have enough time to get stale and funky. You should not be using any sealants, but if you feel that you must, then you want to use Aquarium Grade sealant. This is what is used for most hydro systems running big reservoirs, so your good to go.. But again, if you are doing hempy's correctly, then you should not need additional holes or sealants.
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
If they respond well I'd keep feeding them. It's better to have a light continuous feeding, than to hammer them every other watering.
@SK8er
WattSaver is correct when he suggested using a little NPK. When you say youve had success with soil seedlings before, its because good soil has the right amount of NPK and micro's to carry a plant for a couple of weeks.

The inert Rockwool and perlite has nothing so without any NPK soon your seedling will suffer. Go light and observe, then increase as necessary (as roots/plant develops).
 

sk8ter.13

Member
[FONT=&amp] OK. Did as you guys suggested. Misted them lightly while the lights were off. Moved them out of the cabinet to under a single 25 watt cfl for lower lighting. Went out and bought a gallon of purified water. Tested the PH and it was right at 6.0. Added 1/5 strength nutes and watered the cups.

Is there anything else you guys can think of that might help? Would it be a good idea to try and transplant the cubes into soil until they get bigger? I think that might just shock them more?

Do you guys think I should water them daily, or let the mix dry out a bit and water every other day?

I guess all I can do is wait and see what happens now. I hope they make it, it’s such a pain in the ass to have to order new seeds.

Thank you so much for all the help guys, I am really grateful.
[/FONT]
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
Sk8ter

I think you're doing everything you can. you're going to be OK. .... I wouldn't bother transplanting, You could sprinkle some soil on top, if you want. Soil is good at slowly releasing its organic compounds. It could only help.

How do you plan on growing these babies out? Hempy with Perl/Verm mix?

Please keep us all updated. We would love to see you succeed. :weed:
 

sk8ter.13

Member
Sk8ter

I think you're doing everything you can. you're going to be OK. .... I wouldn't bother transplanting, You could sprinkle some soil on top, if you want. Soil is good at slowly releasing its organic compounds. It could only help.

How do you plan on growing these babies out? Hempy with Perl/Verm mix?

Please keep us all updated. We would love to see you succeed. :weed:
Thanks bro. Appreciate it.

Hopefully these three will grow up to be bonsai moms, and then I will eventually flower out their clones. I have six plants (two each of super lemon haze, kushberry, and big Buddha blue cheese) 4 weeks into flower right now, and clones ready for the next run, so, unfortunately I won’t be able to actually flower out these new strains until the new year, unless I want to mess up my perpetual cycle.

I micro grow in small hempy buckets filled with the 75% perlite and 25% vermiculite mix, under a scrog screen in a two chamber cabinet I built. One chamber is the veg, clone, and mother room, and the other is the flower room. The veg chamber has about 250 watts of CFLs in it, and the flower room has just under 400 watts of CFL’s. I’ve been happy with the results I’ve got so far, but I would like to upgrade to a bigger tent and HPS light for flowering eventually.

I will keep you guys updated; in fact I’ll probably be stopping by this great thread often.
 
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