^^^^^^^^^^^lmfaowhen i said og. I did not mean strain. I meant orignal gangsta.... People that were here from the beginning.
I've been wanting to set up a DIY LED fixture for awhile now. There's just so much that I don't know when it comes to thermal resistance, LED drivers, C/W for a heatsink, etc. I added a bunch of DIY LED to my shopping cart the other day and it totaled $300. Yeah, it's true they are going to last 10 times longer, but if you don't do it right the first time there goes my $300. I've read pages and pages of info on it, but when it comes down to putting it all together it gets a little iffy.At $30 a pop for the UVL 660 or Red Sun, I can get much better value/performance out of a DIY LED using osram/CREE 660/630s. Throw a couple flora sun and/or coral wave T5s on the sides and happy flowering.
You are on the right track. There are things both do better than the other. OSRAM/CREE 660s would pay for themselves over time v replacing 660s every 6 monthsAt $30 a pop for the UVL 660 or Red Sun, I can get much better value/performance out of a DIY LED using osram/CREE 660/630s. Throw a couple flora sun and/or coral wave T5s on the sides and happy flowering.
Check out www.rapidled.com They have new kit coming out, OR, you can buy individual parts (including predrilled heat sinks). I prefer multiple longer narrow heat sinksI've been wanting to set up a DIY LED fixture for awhile now. There's just so much that I don't know when it comes to thermal resistance, LED drivers, C/W for a heatsink, etc. I added a bunch of DIY LED to my shopping cart the other day and it totaled $300. Yeah, it's true they are going to last 10 times longer, but if you don't do it right the first time there goes my $300. I've read pages and pages of info on it, but when it comes down to putting it all together it gets a little iffy.
and ive heard you, but all these tests you speak of, like its a fact set in stone. you need to take in account the variables FIRST off being the fact these tests where not done with cannabis is a great place to start. all im getting at is use the plant as your benchmark and not the scientific research papers.I was referring to th repetition of how light works and how plants absorb light. No more needs to be said on the subject. Personally posted the same thing to poly several times since he came in here.
There are these new LEDs that have 4 x 3w LEDs already soldered onto a MCPCB board in a circle. That means they are 12w each. Probably are going to get a little hotter than having only 1 x 3w'er on a star board but it saves a lot of money and time. The only thing is I don't know how to size up a heat sink and fan to them. It's going to be $300 for a 150w setup, plus $100 for a driver or around there. 156 V because they are 3v each forward current. So 156v and 156w driven at 700mA. I guess this isn't the right thread to find out where to get the driver, but that's where I'm at anyway. I can't justify hitting the buy now button when I still don't know how to power the lights lol.Check out www.rapidled.com They have new kit coming out, OR, you can buy individual parts (including predrilled heat sinks). I prefer multiple longer narrow heat sinks
Oh ok, I see what you're talking about now. If you guys are looking for a 660nm alternative and not wanting to do the mess around there is always the kessil h150 reds at $170 a piece. 32w with penetrative power. I'm running 4 in a 2x2 ft cabinet along side a mh with great results. I've used blue T5's along side them and although it works, the reds are a lot more penetrative and you end up getting more red than blue to the bottom inside leaves. Not sure if it matters though. I'm not to sure about the Kessils though as I've had a couple of them stop working already. At least they have a warranty. I sometimes wish I would have just put the money towards a DIY setup and said f' it to all the problems and expenses I've had up to this point.Fonz, Pet is referring to the new solderless kits from RapidLED. They should be released within the next couple weeks. I think if you're interested in a DIY panel, this would be the path of least resistance - no soldering, no mess, just plug and play. All you have to do is mount the stars to the heatsink with thermal adhesive and connect the LEDs to the terminal connectors. I've looked at the instructions and it looks really easy, too easy. If you opt for the predrilled sink, you can just use some arctic silver and screw the stars down. Also, these kits are mostly for reefers and fish tanks, meaning they only include royal blue/white in the kits. I've e-mailed them in the past about this and they told me a custom color order (to include red/far reds) wouldn't be a problem.
Pet, I prefer the narrow/longer sinks as well. Excellent alternative to the expensive $30 red bulbs.
This study badly needs at least one thing: Temps throughout the grow. Over 70F, radishes do not fatten up. I wonder of they accounted for that, as I see no mention of it. If nothing else, this makes the study somewhat incomplete. There's also a lack of a comparison against trying to hit the whole PAR range proportionately. I haven't read through the 12 page thread you linked yet. It's a bit much to hunt out the info you're referring to, no offense. I'll try to get to it, but life has a way of distracting me.
I think something changed after you got it then. Jeff sent me the SPD for the 660 bulbs, and they match fonz's SPD. Could you throw yours up? They're on the market now. Plus, this bears some scrutiny; your results may differ from ours if the outputs vary. That sounds like UVL may be pulling a fast one.That is no the same spd that jeff from uvl sent me. Ive tried to.get spd from current and they refused to give one. They just referred a link to their faq where they state what nm it peaks at.
I do not believe those are real spd's.
I would say this thread is a little in the dark. No offense. It's amazing what a little open minded googling can do. This link may open your mind up to the idea I've been going after a bit. Follow Weezard's posts and respond please. It doesn't really sound like any other wavelengths are necessary except for 460 and 660. I'm not totally set on this idea yet as I still have my own experimenting to do, but Weezard has a few photos that are turning me into more of a believer now.
http://boards.cannabis.com/indoor-lighting/198437-need-help-wavelength-spectrum-led.html
http://boards.cannabis.com/indoor-lighting/167881-calling-out-weezard-led-advice.html
I'm just now starting to understand half of the posts you have made about 630nm and 730nm and all that crazy shit. It's all coming together. I didn't realize you were a genius.Weez goes way back with leds, so I tend to believe what he thinks, BUT, I think you still want ~ 20% 5-600