Thanks Eraser for pointing out that his panels ARE using all chinese diodes(basically confirmed now that he removed the Cree tags)......But this brings up the issue: that many of us growers don't know(me included if I didn't follow spuzz and eraser)....we can't expect high quality diodes at the prices their selling them for.Has anyone else noticed that Hydroponics Hut removed all references and logos regarding Cree from the website?
I think with the combination of me emailing him and putting a little fire under his ass about fake Cree's, and Psuagro getting on him for being shady, he realized it is best to just tell the truth.
And btw,
Advanced LED removed all references to Bridgelux and Epistar from the Diamond Series description as well. Not sure if it had to do with my emails to him asking him to explain how he has spectrums from specific companies that they do not even make.
People are getting wise to the tomfooleries from these LED companies.
I seem to recall advanced changing some of the leds they use when they came out with the diamond series...i don't recall which they ditched and went with which new ones, but I do remember one being semiled....the other two escape me at the moment.
Thanks Eraser for pointing out that his panels ARE using all chinese diodes(basically confirmed now that he removed the Cree tags)......But this brings up the issue: that many of us growers don't know(me included if I didn't follow spuzz and eraser)....we can't expect high quality diodes at the prices their selling them for.
I paid 309.00(w shipping) dollars for a panel drawing 160w(?maybe?),and now that I've checked out chip suppliers(briefly contemplated the DIY thing) their is no way any of the top selling panels contain good quality diodes.....
obviously their are a few exceptions from my researching panels(like procryon 100watt/all cree xpe..$600) and you will pay out the ass for it....
Oh I still haven't been credited back my money from Ben..........Is the war not over???
Are most LED grow lights a ripoff? Why do they need so many LED's?
Because they are built to maximize profit and take advantage of cheap labor soldering all those tiny, inefficient LEDs onto terrible heat sinks. You have a wallet, and somebody wants what's in it. I can't get more blunt than this. If you want more state of the art fixtures you'll need to look at those used for reefing, and even the majority of those are junk. The Cree based ones are very expensive.
For my own growth lights I use new XP-Es and drive them at an amp. Not sure how many 5mm or 10mm or SEMI based LEDs they kick in the pants, but it's likely a heck of a lot lot. 30watts of royal blue XP-E likely has the same blue growth energy (PAR) as 100-150watts of metal halide. Daylight balanced MH wastes huge amounts of energy emitting green and yellow which is why they are so hot and bright but don't do much for plants.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?322777-Are-most-LED-grow-lights-a-ripoff-Why-do-they-need-so-many-LED-s
Speaking of LED grow lights, I just finished building my own light several weeks ago. The current grow area is 2x2ft. I haven't tried flowering any plants under LEDs yet, but the plants look healthy during their vegging phase. With LED grow lights, DIY is the way to go if you know which wavelengths you want.I've been keeping them on for 18 hours a day. The leds are being driven by 2 constant current drivers. One single 1400mA driver for the reds in a 3S/2P configuration and a 2100mA driver for the blues in a 2S/2P configuration.
LEDs Used and Drive Currents:
12 Cree XP-E Royal Blue LEDs at 1.1Amp Each
12 Cree XP-E Red LEDs at 700mA Each
6 Luxeon Rebel Deep Red Leds at 700mA Each
Power Consumption: ~80W
Total Cost: ~$300
I basically mounted everything to a metal panel with arctic alumina and soldered the LEDs in series/parallel configurations. With a 150W 24V DC power supply, they seem to be performing very well for herbs. A vertical fan was used to pass air over the heatsinks and keep the whole setup cool.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?322777-Are-most-LED-grow-lights-a-ripoff-Why-do-they-need-so-many-LED-s&p=3754029&viewfull=1#post3754029
Oh I still haven't been credited back my money from Ben..........Is the war not over???
Yeah that(paypal) and he emailed me back that he wants to inspect the panel "thoroughly" to see if it's "as new" condition before crediting me back All my money....I may have underestimated Ben's business savviness...........PayPal? It took 5 days for PayPal to give me the money that the seller had already returned in 24 hours. Sits in PP's bank account earning daily interest.. with millions of other people's money.
That's what it "could" be anyways.........
Check out these modules. http://www.theledstore.com.au/product_p/ls0056.htm
There was a sales man at the hydro store with these already in a retail system with 36 of these diodes. http://www.ftelighting.com. The retail was I think at $1,600.00.
If you go to Mouser. http://www.mouser.com/knowledge/leds/illumitexhorticulture/ the modules are about $11.00 a piece.
1.7W 8.5μmol/s each. I'm thinking 50 of these over a 3 X 3 table.
http://www.rapidled.com/osram-660nm-3w-red-led/Where can i find Osram Golden Dragon plus Hyper Red 660nm mounted on a star? Also Cree XR-E's on a star? saw them on cutter but didn't see mounted on star.
Forgot the Crees...Where can i find Osram Golden Dragon plus Hyper Red 660nm mounted on a star? Also Cree XR-E's on a star? saw them on cutter but didn't see mounted on star.
Yeh they seem pretty nice especially if they use less voltage and produce more lm. Also i dig the new tech with the diode shape, did you see the spectrum output it looks pretty cool and i believe this could be very beneficial for the future of leds. But honestly you have to be careful with two much blue lumens in a light for LEDs. They are a major contributor to leaf Bleaching. I just had a new customized blue veg light manufactured and man did it bleach bad(when it is close to plants, but fine when its further away)because of all the blue in it, I recommend not going more than fifty percent blue for veg, and 20% blues for flowering LEDs. Also i have been having a hell of a time with 60 degrees lens, for anyone wondering don't mix 60's and 90 degree lens. the sixties create hot spots and bleach even over two feet away. 90s are a great all around for flower (but you have to keep it further away than 120s). 120 degrees for veg always.. White light doesn t seem to bleach as much....? Can't quite explain it but there must be to much photon absortion for blues which kinda makes sense when you look and the absorbtion rate of blues on the PAR plant graphs makes sense you would want to balance the absorption rate out.
http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQSd8nnC-FpV9rsGbRJ52g8bsD59_oPjHpnh-XuQ5dpBTAzq-Gg
They also have White XL-m's Cutter Electronics
Also I'll be posting some pictures of the LEDs i get manufactured in the LED tech forum (link below)
They have a 18-19 band spectrum