DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes
- Thread starter Heisenberg
- Start date
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
I read something recently about slime and h2o2 and it stated that h2o2 doesn't fully oxidize unless ph is around 4. Anybody know anything about that? Seems like a logical reason why h2o2 wouldn't kill all slime. Just doesn't explain why it does kill some slime
Heisenberg
Well-Known Member
Hydrogen Peroxide decomposes into water and oxygen when heated above about 80°C and in the presence of catalysts (metals, acids, or oxidizable organic materials). Decomposition of H2O2: increased temperature, increased pH (pH 6-, contamination (reactive metals: copper, manganese, iron, etc.), exposure to ultraviolet light. Contamination and pH together, increase decomposition of H2O2. Commercial grades of Hydrogen Peroxide contain stabilizers designed to minimize decomposition. Hydrogen Peroxide decomposition is accelerated by trace levels of contaminants. The degradation by-products are usually acidic. H2O2 solutions are more stable at low pH. Some producers may add mineral acids (phosphoric acid or nitric acid) in the production process or after to further lower the pH.
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Heisenberg
Well-Known Member
A clone will work on it's roots for a while before it concentrates on it's canopy. You can use a very light foliar feed during this time to help it along, such as dutch masters APS. Once the root ball is big enough to support vigorous growth you can start using liquid light. Half strength the first few times (unless the plant is already large). Do not be alarmed if your plants droop for the first hour after applying LL, it's normal.
theR
Active Member
Hi everyone, from EasternEurope.
My problem is same and I appreciate all your help. But this tea making is complicated, because I have to improvise the components.
I can get next things:
Humus/Worm casting/Biohumus
H202
but...
I dont know where I have to look inoculation that contains myco fungi and inoculation that contains bacillus bacteria,
also no SM-90 in here
(I have this thing called Hesi-Powerzyme, think it is not a good to use it)
I can order my components, but I have to make my moves fast. Dont want to lose this war.
(Using CannaVega A/B)
Big thanks, hope you can get me some ideas at least.
My problem is same and I appreciate all your help. But this tea making is complicated, because I have to improvise the components.
I can get next things:
Humus/Worm casting/Biohumus
H202
but...
I dont know where I have to look inoculation that contains myco fungi and inoculation that contains bacillus bacteria,
also no SM-90 in here
(I have this thing called Hesi-Powerzyme, think it is not a good to use it)I can order my components, but I have to make my moves fast. Dont want to lose this war.
(Using CannaVega A/B)
Big thanks, hope you can get me some ideas at least.
neobes
Well-Known Member
I am about to start using a foliar fungicide called SNS 244 as I have had some powdery mildew issues. Powdery mildew is a real bitch--once you have it, you can only control it. It looks like the main ingredient in this spray is thyme oil, and that seems pretty innocuous. I haven't been able to find any info on the web about it except from the manufacturer's website. Do you guys think if I am careful not to get any of the spray in the rez that my benes will be safe? Anyway, I got the stuff for free and anybody can get 4 oz free samples of their stuff at www.sierranaturalscience.com.
They sent me 2 bottles and it looks like I'll probably never actually have to buy the stuff. Hope it works!
They sent me 2 bottles and it looks like I'll probably never actually have to buy the stuff. Hope it works!
sqydro
Active Member
24hrs in and my first batch isnt very frothy, is this still ok to use? also i read a interesting article about airstones causeing pythium as its a airborn disease, and that you should use a water pump to create ripples in your dwc and it actualy adds more dissolbed oxygen that a 8" stone, whats your views guys? flooming its called!
I have a bit of an issue arise from using bennies! I am running 4 plants in on DWC system thus they are all going to react a little different as they are from seed and different phenos. Well I started getting the claw on one plant due to nitrogen overdose. I started doing some research and folks were saying you can run in to this issues if you are adding any sort of humic acid or other things that will increase nute uptake and root growth.
Any suggestions on how I should help this one plant out since the others show no sign of Nitrogen overload...I should note I did a 24hr ph'd flush a few days ago and it didn't seem to help. Although I did the flush for other symptoms...the leaf edges were curled up and I wanted to take precaution against a possible salt build up. I believe the problem was actually low humidity. I'm already running low ppm's a week into flower, I'm at 230 down from 280 about 3 days ago.
Any suggestions on how I should help this one plant out since the others show no sign of Nitrogen overload...I should note I did a 24hr ph'd flush a few days ago and it didn't seem to help. Although I did the flush for other symptoms...the leaf edges were curled up and I wanted to take precaution against a possible salt build up. I believe the problem was actually low humidity. I'm already running low ppm's a week into flower, I'm at 230 down from 280 about 3 days ago.
CaliMackdaddy
Active Member
Recently started using Xtreeme Tea blend that the hydro store gave me a sample of, it seemed to be a bit old seeing as the materials inside were falling apart (paper packaging) When i started using it this dark brown gunk started to form on the roots, so i tried a smaller dosage rinsed and cleaned each bucket for a new batch, but the same thing happened. The stuff comes off easy and seems organic in material but i cant say for sure, this is my first time using Dwc. Should i throw a new batch together and give it another go or just scrap it and test out the blend that was described in this topic.
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
JEsus dude. LOL
Your questions have already been answered in the thread but anyways..
Great white tbsp per gallon, earth worm castings one cup per gallon, yes you can use sweet (expensive), probably tablespoon a gallon, any container you got, lots of air and three day
1 cup per gallon of rez water initially. 1 cup per 5 gallons every three days after that.
Yeah, fine with your all chemical, absolutely nothing organic (vegan) nutes.
Phyzane 20...with your biotic tea? Your not seriously asking that are you? Cause if you are, that is beyond dense.
Your questions have already been answered in the thread but anyways..
Great white tbsp per gallon, earth worm castings one cup per gallon, yes you can use sweet (expensive), probably tablespoon a gallon, any container you got, lots of air and three day
1 cup per gallon of rez water initially. 1 cup per 5 gallons every three days after that.
Yeah, fine with your all chemical, absolutely nothing organic (vegan) nutes.
Phyzane 20...with your biotic tea? Your not seriously asking that are you? Cause if you are, that is beyond dense.
No I was not asking if I should I use phy20 with the the tea but piror to ussing the tea (well its brewing) like I said I knew most of what I asked was Already as been gone through I spent like almost 3 1/2 hours reading the tread but I am one of those people that will ask the same questions twice as long as i am the one getting the answer from the horse mouth. Thank you for clearing all that up also the great white as a scope in it that says it does 10 gallons of water pre scope (and you to say to use 1 tbs of great white) can anyone confirm 1 tablespoon