250w HPS Club And Help Guide

[Doobieus]

Thanks again Doob,

So you think they will make it?

I'm hoping that there is a lot more going on below ground (wool) like the first few weeks of a seedling and they will be taking off in another week or so. Best case.. If they all make it I am thinking that I will keep one of each as a mother and with the smart pots I can put the others in the flowering cab and see what happens.

Grazz

Raise your light, clones can't take intense light. You have roots and they're growing new leaf sets, you should be fine. If you raise the light and still notice yellowing, check the ph and give them a little nutes VERY little.

Those are the 3 major things that I can think of, aside from temp control.

 

[Doobieus]

what can i use to sanitize the room bleach and water?

Yes that will work, as bleach kills just about anything lol.

 

[Grazzmon]

Raise your light, clones can't take intense light. You have roots and they're growing new leaf sets, you should be fine. If you raise the light and still notice yellowing, check the ph and give them a little nutes VERY little.

Those are the 3 major things that I can think of, aside from temp control.

I figured out the light issue (when the little leaves turned crispy) I have some water that I have been feeding with.. ph'd and about 1/8 strength nutes. Temps have been super in the flower cab 77/61 the area were the clone are stays around that top number..
I'm liking the smart pots so far, seems they will be easier to work with. I may go to these in the flowering cab after this grow is done.

Grazz

 

[Grazzmon]

Found this on another site.. what does the club think of this?

<*week 4/5 of flower. drop ph to 5.4 to make PK nutes more available to plants. increase the ph each week .1... i.e. wk4-ph5.4, wk5 ph5.5, wk6 ph5.6, wk7 ph5.7, wk 8 5.8 finish...Again; If you require longer finishing time, You hold off on this ph transition.>

Grazz

 

[AWnox]

Found this on another site.. what does the club think of this?

<*week 4/5 of flower. drop ph to 5.4 to make PK nutes more available to plants. increase the ph each week .1... i.e. wk4-ph5.4, wk5 ph5.5, wk6 ph5.6, wk7 ph5.7, wk 8 5.8 finish...Again; If you require longer finishing time, You hold off on this ph transition.>

Grazz

Sounds great if you can tell me how to accurately "set" your pH so specifically by small increments. Please correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the nutrients handle buffering of the pH at that stage of flowering. After 900 or so ppm FloraNova Bloom (one part) handles the pH rather well and has no need to adjust it once it reaches that amount.

 

[Doobieus]

Found this on another site.. what does the club think of this?

<*week 4/5 of flower. drop ph to 5.4 to make PK nutes more available to plants. increase the ph each week .1... i.e. wk4-ph5.4, wk5 ph5.5, wk6 ph5.6, wk7 ph5.7, wk 8 5.8 finish...Again; If you require longer finishing time, You hold off on this ph transition.>

Grazz

There are a couple things wrong with that.....

I'm not a hydro grower (Tried but I prefer soil) but I do know that at 5.4 you're not getting the best uptake of PK that's 5.3. 5.6 - 5.8 is what you're wanting to shoot for.

Sounds great if you can tell me how to accurately "set" your pH so specifically by small increments. Please correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the nutrients handle buffering of the pH at that stage of flowering. After 900 or so ppm FloraNova Bloom (one part) handles the pH rather well and has no need to adjust it once it reaches that amount.

You get a waterproof PH meter with a probe and drop the probe in the res and adjust accordingly. A lot of nutes have PH buffers, however they don't always work as they are not 100% fail safe. PPM/TDS/EC has a lot to do with PH, but the best way I can explain it. Is PH is what allows the nutrients to be soaked into the roots, PPM is more how much nutes, TDS is how dissolved, and EC should be self explanatory at this point. The all work together, but they are different things. Your PPM could be high but your PH all jacked, see my point?

================================================

On another note....

I have heard of this being done, it's not unheard of or uncommon. Each grower has their way of growing, if you wanna give it a go Grazz then go for it dude. You'll never know your grow style/habits/routine until you try a lot of stuff and even then there's always newer things popping up all of the time.

 

[AWnox]

There are a couple things wrong with that.....

I'm not a hydro grower (Tried but I prefer soil) but I do know that at 5.4 you're not getting the best uptake of PK that's 5.3. 5.6 - 5.8 is what you're wanting to shoot for.


You get a waterproof PH meter with a probe and drop the probe in the res and adjust accordingly. A lot of nutes have PH buffers, however they don't always work as they are not 100% fail safe. PPM/TDS/EC has a lot to do with PH, but the best way I can explain it. Is PH is what allows the nutrients to be soaked into the roots, PPM is more how much nutes, TDS is how dissolved, and EC should be self explanatory at this point. The all work together, but they are different things. Your PPM could be high but your PH all jacked, see my point?

================================================

On another note....

I have heard of this being done, it's not unheard of or uncommon. Each grower has their way of growing, if you wanna give it a go Grazz then go for it dude. You'll never know your grow style/habits/routine until you try a lot of stuff and even then there's always newer things popping up all of the time.

Thanks for the reply Doobieus; I know how to measure it's just how to increment it by such small amounts seems a bit difficult and for the trouble I wouldn't see the nececity. I'm a believer that the plant and the nutrients will handle what it needs and wants and you just provide it for her. You might want her to uptake more PK but what if she doesn't need it then you'll end up with nute burn, know what I mean? Would be awesome if there was (I'm sure there is just very expensive) a way to know how much N or PK she's been up-taking just how we do with ppm in general but more specific. In regards to nutrient pH buffering, FloraNova does a VERY good job at keeping the pH stable and around what she needs, I check it every day and the pH stays at or around 5.4 - 5.9 depending on the day and haven't added any pH down to my reservoir since I went up to 900 ppm. Highly recommend it for hydro grows.

 

[Doobieus]

Thanks for the reply Doobieus; I know how to measure it's just how to increment it by such small amounts seems a bit difficult and for the trouble I wouldn't see the nececity. I'm a believer that the plant and the nutrients will handle what it needs and wants and you just provide it for her. You might want her to uptake more PK but what if she doesn't need it then you'll end up with nute burn, know what I mean? Would be awesome if there was (I'm sure there is just very expensive) a way to know how much N or PK she's been up-taking just how we do with ppm in general but more specific. In regards to nutrient pH buffering, FloraNova does a VERY good job at keeping the pH stable and around what she needs, I check it every day and the pH stays at or around 5.4 - 5.9 depending on the day and haven't added any pH down to my reservoir since I went up to 900 ppm. Highly recommend it for hydro grows.

I know lol, I used to sell that stuff =P. Ah my bad, misunderstood your question. I believe that nutrients, heat and many other variables are based on the strain you're growing. My Bubblegum loved heavy feedings and can take hotter temps, my Blueberry didn't like that so much lol. So I concur with the whole what your plant wants thing, because strain is a very important factor.

I also think it would be a hassle to do that unless you were on a larger scale, lots easier to manage more water than less. I'm pretty sure this method as far as I've seen anyway, has been applied to way larger grows. I also agree the equipment does cost a lot, especially for the nicer probe meters.

However with that said, as I always say different tokes for different folks.

 

[Grazzmon]

There are a couple things wrong with that.....

I'm not a hydro grower (Tried but I prefer soil) but I do know that at 5.4 you're not getting the best uptake of PK that's 5.3. 5.6 - 5.8 is what you're wanting to shoot for.


You get a waterproof PH meter with a probe and drop the probe in the res and adjust accordingly. A lot of nutes have PH buffers, however they don't always work as they are not 100% fail safe. PPM/TDS/EC has a lot to do with PH, but the best way I can explain it. Is PH is what allows the nutrients to be soaked into the roots, PPM is more how much nutes, TDS is how dissolved, and EC should be self explanatory at this point. The all work together, but they are different things. Your PPM could be high but your PH all jacked, see my point?

================================================

On another note....

I have heard of this being done, it's not unheard of or uncommon. Each grower has their way of growing, if you wanna give it a go Grazz then go for it dude. You'll never know your grow style/habits/routine until you try a lot of stuff and even then there's always newer things popping up all of the time.

Thanks for the replies, I do not plan on trying this.. it was just something I came across and thought it might be a good topic of conversation. I have been using the Lucas formula since I started and like they say "If it aint broke..." I have noticed that since I've gone to flower the ph has been pretty close to stable, during veg I had to bring it down between floods..

Grazz

Grazz

 

[AWnox]

I know lol, I used to sell that stuff =P. Ah my bad, misunderstood your question. I believe that nutrients, heat and many other variables are based on the strain you're growing. My Bubblegum loved heavy feedings and can take hotter temps, my Blueberry didn't like that so much lol. So I concur with the whole what your plant wants thing, because strain is a very important factor.

I also think it would be a hassle to do that unless you were on a larger scale, lots easier to manage more water than less. I'm pretty sure this method as far as I've seen anyway, has been applied to way larger grows. I also agree the equipment does cost a lot, especially for the nicer probe meters.

However with that said, as I always say different tokes for different folks.

I'm gonna quote you on that saying Very well put bro.

 

[Doobieus]

Thanks for the replies, I do not plan on trying this.. it was just something I came across and thought it might be a good topic of conversation. I have been using the Lucas formula since I started and like they say "If it aint broke..." I have noticed that since I've gone to flower the ph has been pretty close to stable, during veg I had to bring it down between floods..

Grazz

Oh stop lying, you know you just like starting shit lol jk.

 

[Doobieus]

I'm gonna quote you on that saying Very well put bro.

Lol not a bro, but thanks man lol.

 

[Grazzmon]

Oh stop lying, you know you just like starting shit lol jk.

Not me.. I'd never..

 

[Grazzmon]

Lol not a bro, but thanks man lol.

There it is again...lol

 

[frankcast04]

success my nirvana seeds poped in just 24 hrs, hey doobieus ( or anyone ells thats grown this strain) i know you grown the Nirvana Bubblicious , how long did you vag for? did you top or LST? what was your dry wieght?

 

[Doobieus]

success my nirvana seeds poped in just 24 hrs, hey doobieus ( or anyone ells thats grown this strain) i know you grown the Nirvana Bubblicious , how long did you vag for? did you top or LST? what was your dry wieght?

Lol you put vag.

On a serious note though, it was Nirvana's Bubblegum the predecessor of Bubblicious. However the genetics should be fairly similar if not the same and they just renamed. I vegged until they sexed, I will usually plant Reg seeds not Fem. This round was Fem because of time constraints, but normally I will wait for preflowers in Veg to show sex, then throw into bloom. The stretch is about 3x, so if you start at 1 ft in bloom it will grow to be around 3 ft or so.

No top or LST, just super cropped and that was it. Yield was decent I remember that, the exact amount however.... That grow was about 2-3 years ago, so yeah.... It lasted me for months though and I'm a very heavy smoker, if that helps?

Here are some pics of it. Now mind you there were emergency buds taken off of her lol, ahhh it happens. She was not completely done in these pictures either. I do remember that even though it was not as matured as I normally like, it really wasn't bad at this point. The flavor my god, sweet sugar pink bubble gum like bazooka joe status.

 

[AWnox]

xD Vag ... had a Beavis and Butthead moment just now. BTW those trichs on that bubblegum look amazing man, props to ya, was that with a 250W?

 

[Doobieus]

xD Vag ... had a Beavis and Butthead moment just now. BTW those trichs on that bubblegum look amazing man, props to ya, was that with a 250W?

Yes this was with a 250, and funny story. This plant was grown in a half gallon pot lol, a little over 3 ft tall in a half gallon pot gotta love it.

 

[AWnox]

Yes this was with a 250, and funny story. This plant was grown in a half gallon pot lol, a little over 3 ft tall in a half gallon pot gotta love it.

Wow. I imagine the root ball was basically the entire pot if it got to 3 feet. I'm using the Waterfarm right now and my girl is turning into a beast...and for my space that's not such a good thing didn't think she would stretch that much during flowering, now I know. Those extra air stones and bigger pumps really make the difference with the WF's.

 

[Doobieus]

Wow. I imagine the root ball was basically the entire pot if it got to 3 feet. I'm using the Waterfarm right now and my girl is turning into a beast...and for my space that's not such a good thing didn't think she would stretch that much during flowering, now I know. Those extra air stones and bigger pumps really make the difference with the WF's.

This was soil lol, half gallon soil pots. The roots were nuts but because they were in a coco/soil mix the roots were still happy. The hydro setup I used was a DWC bucket, with a nice H shaped air stone, and nano chiller with PPM probe meter, Temp probe meter and PH probe meter.

Edit: Just want to clarify I am mainly a soil grower, but that is the setup I used for hydro.