The other day I was looking at something on youtube about people sharing EC and ppm readings. First of all the EC is the most accurate, but the readings are only related to what your doing not what I'm doing or Bobby down the road. So I guess the readings can only relate to the plants, enviroment, grower. At the moment with my plants I run about .5-.8 ec.yeah z, exactly, i use a bluelab truncheon nute meter. 8 mL micro per gallon and 16 mL Flower per gallon give me an ec of 1.2 or 770 ppm (ec x 700) or 550 ppm (ec x 500) what number should I shoot for on the 500 side? is that personal preference, or because of GH nutes? Thanks for the knowledge.
Here is the print Screen of A and B and just to compare, FloraNova is below. So where are the minerals at?Hmmm. House & Garden isn't listed anywhere on the link you provided, and so far I haven't found the label, but I really doubt that there are only four elements in their Aqua Flakes line. H&G is a quality nutrient, I know several people who run it with great success. I'll keep searching when I get time tonight, that, or I'll go check the bottles at a friend's house and get back to you on that.
Using silica and fulvic acid is a great way to naturally lower and raise ph. They also break down nutes for easier uptake(fulvic) and strengthen the plant tissue(silica)....Good idea...PeaceThe only thing I use is Dutch Master Zone and Sm-90. I don't count Magi-cal because it is a base nutrient. The reason is that they help my roots stay healthy and they are not hog wash...the Dutch Master is the same thing most good water supplies use to sterilize there drinking water with a few other things to keep the plants roots happy. The Sm-90 keeps all pest from messing with my plants and it's got some sulfur in it to help my plant stay healthy. Not to mention they are both chelating agents. I'm not a big fan of additives Homebrewer will a test to that. I think most people waste to much money trying to grow good bud with additives. I was going to try some silcia and fulvic/humic acid next grow. To see but I don't think anything will happen.
GH 3 Part Flora Series and Botanicare CNS17 Series
Liquid KoolBloom or Botanicare Pure Blend Bloom
GH Flora Nectar or Botanicare Sweet
Bud Candy (currently experimenting)
molasses (currently experiementing)
CAL-MAG
Hygrozyme
Botanicare Silica Blast
Superthrive
Just bought a litre of AN OverDrive to the mix. Has anyone have experience using Overdrive in veg? I'm thinking of experimenting with that in my next cycle and fed it to my current cycle that is at Wk 5.
I use Dutch Masters Silica, Zone, Potash, and Max, also Humboldt County's Own Gravity, Bushmaster. Silica is simply a silica boost. Silica is supposed to make the cell walls stronger making the plant healthier and less prone to disease. The Zone is a tank sanitizer as I'm in DWC. I've always had white roots and clear water. Never any algae or root rot. Potash is just a boost of potasium to be used during flower. The Max stuff is the only thing I think is possibly bunk. It is supposed to be something to aid in the uptake of nutrients, whatever that means. I'm not sure if the max does anything, but it's not expensive so I'm ok with it.Not counting your base nutes what additives do you use? The plant gets all the macro and micro nutrients it needs from the base nutes (if you're using good nutes) so what purpose does your additive serve? I am curious how many of these additives are snake oil. I am talking about things like, Roots Excelerator, Bud XL, molasses, etc. Some additives have micro/macro nutrients too, like Bud Blood. Bud Blood is considered an additive right? Shouldn't good base nutes have all the nutrients the plant needs? I've used additives in the past but very few of them have given a noticeable result. Some of the best weed I've smoked has been grown with a 3-part or 4-part nutrient schedule.
I am switching to hydro for the first time. I am using Dyna-Gro as my base nutrient, and I can't think of any additives that would be necessary. I've never used it but DG is suppose to be a good balanced nutrient that has everything the plant needs, and I've never seen an additive that has a noticeable effect. So, somebody try and sell me on an additive on top of the DG base.
Sour KushInfact, if you guys provide a pic of the buds you get... with what you use for nutes/additives it would be very helpful for everyone to see what kind of results you get with your setup... could be interesting...
That's weird. I've never turned off my airpump at all and never had anything like that happen. Not sure if it's becuase I only use a little or if the zone keeps it in check or what. But yeah, been 5 grows so far with it, 3 dwc and 2 flooded tube and I've not once changed anything when the gravity enters... just cut back on the other nutes is all.Gotta be careful with humbolt gravity in a res, if you have a air pump, turn it off when putting it in your res... it will Gunk up into a nice frothy white mess... the air pump activates something for mold or something.. I've had that happen... one res was perfectly fine, the other with the airstone was a nasty mess within 24 hours... and in a aeroponics setup it can be really nasty....
yea, it's strange. I did it a couple times and couldn't figure out why it got a white frothy mess after 24 hours... but I looked it up and others had the same issue...That's weird. I've never turned off my airpump at all and never had anything like that happen. Not sure if it's becuase I only use a little or if the zone keeps it in check or what. But yeah, been 5 grows so far with it, 3 dwc and 2 flooded tube and I've not once changed anything when the gravity enters... just cut back on the other nutes is all.
my guess is it has some of the same stuff to make microbes react with aeration... not sure why or what not... but sometimes it reacts badly.. might be a heat/humidity combination that makes it progressively worse....sounds like you are running Hydro. I like to use 2 2.5 ML / gallon in my
reservoir and run it for about 3 days before I dump my reservoir. I have run my
res both with and without air stones while using Snow Storm, Gravity, &
Bushmaster. I always off-gas my R.O. water in another tank for 48 hours with
another air-stone, prior to mixing.
The simple rule seems to be that if you DO aerate your reservoir, you should
only use the products for the last 72-48 hours of the waters life before its
time to dump it. The fact is that even with only a couple of days of watering
out of the week with this stuff, you still seem to get the same if not better
results from running it continuously. If you get it in and out of your res in 48
hours, the chances of building up that bad bacteria is much reduced. Dont be
scared of a little foam in the reservoir![]()
When your water level and total-dissolved-solids (PPM) has dropped a few days
after first mixing up your water, its the perfect time to add snow storm and
gravity along with pure R/O water and possibly a Phosphorous / Potassium (P/K)
boost like Kool-Bloom Powder from General Hydroponics or Hydroplex from
Botanicare.
Now, if you DO NOT aerate your res, you can run the snow storm at its
continuous dose of 2 ml/ gallon and just leave it in for the entire 7-14 days
you keep your reservoir water until you dump and start fresh. Even when your
water is low and you need to top-off the water, you can add the respective
amount on 2 ml/gal to your top-off water. I will say again that even with just
2-3 waterings per week of this stuff, the same amazing results seem to occur. As
they say on the label, less is more.
All the same would apply in regards to aeration with Bushmaster and Gravity.
Bushmaster however is only used for 3-7 days, and Gravity is only used from
weeks four to eight. Gravity can be run at a continuous dose of 1 ML / FIVE
GALLONS of water.
I had the same results both with and without an aerated reservoir