dirrtyd
Well-Known Member
In my opinion it should be out by now to allow it time to finish. If not it will only reveg and give some leafy buds. For my summer crops I will put some out in April then the rest in May. dirrtyd
Greenhouse vs Raised Bed vs Large Hole
- Thread starter dirrtyd
- Start date
dirrtyd
Well-Known Member
a little something about how soil works.
Soil Biology
The Soil Biology Primer
Chapter 4: SOIL FUNGI
By Elaine R. Ingham
THE LIVING SOIL: FUNGI
Fungi are microscopic cells that usually grow as long threads or strands called hyphae, which push their way between soil particles, roots, and rocks. Hyphae are usually only several thousandths of an inch (a few micrometers) in diameter. A single hyphae can span in length from a few cells to many yards. A few fungi, such as yeast, are single cells.
Hyphae sometimes group into masses called mycelium or thick, cord-like “rhizomorphs” that look like roots. Fungal fruiting structures (mushrooms) are made of hyphal strands, spores, and some special structures like gills on which spores form. (See figure) A single individual fungus can include many fruiting bodies scattered across an area as large as a baseball diamond.
Fungi perform important services related to water dynamics, nutrient cycling, and disease suppression. Along with bacteria, fungi are important as decomposers in the soil food web. They convert hard-to-digest organic material into forms that other organisms can use. Fungal hyphae physically bind soil particles together, creating stable aggregates that help increase water infiltration and soil water holding capacity.
Soil fungi can be grouped into three general functional groups based on how they get their energy. Decomposers – saprophytic fungi – convert dead organic material into fungal biomass, carbon dioxide (CO2), and small molecules, such as organic acids. These fungi generally use complex substrates, such as the cellulose and lignin, in wood, and are essential in decomposing the carbon ring structures in some pollutants. A few fungi are called “sugar fungi” because they use the same simple substrates as do many bacteria. Like bacteria, fungi are important for immobilizing, or retaining, nutrients in the soil. In addition, many of the secondary metabolites of fungi are organic acids, so they help increase the accumulation of humic-acid rich organic matter that is resistant to degradation and may stay in the soil for hundreds of years.
Mutualists – the mycorrhizal fungi – colonize plant roots. In exchange for carbon from the plant, mycorrhizal fungi help solubolize phosphorus and bring soil nutrients (phosphorus, nitrogen, micronutrients, and perhaps water) to the plant. One major group of mycorrhizae, the ectomycorrhizae (Figure 3), grow on the surface layers of the roots and are commonly associated with trees. The second major group of mycorrhizae are the endomycorrhizae that grow within the root cells and are commonly associated with grasses, row crops, vegetables, and shrubs. Arbuscular mycorrhizal (AM) fungi (Figure 4) are a type of endomycorrhizal fungi. Ericoid mycorrhizal fungi can by either ecto- or endomycorrhizal.
The third group of fungi, pathogens or parasites, cause reduced production or death when they colonize roots and other organisms. Root-pathogenic fungi, such as Verticillium, Pythium, and Rhizoctonia, cause major economic losses in agriculture each year. Many fungi help control diseases. For example, nematode-trapping fungi that parasitize disease-causing nematodes, and fungi that feed on insects may be useful as biocontrol agents.
Figure 1: Many plants depend on fungi to help extract nutrients from the soil. Tree roots (brown) are connected to the symbiotic mycorrhizal structure (bright white) and fungal hyphae (thin white strands) radiating into the soil.
Credit: Randy Molina, Oregon State University, CorvallisFigure 2: Fungus beginning to decompose leaf veins in grass clippings.
Credit: No. 48 from Soil Microbiology and Biochemistry Slide Set. 1976. J.P. Martin, et al., eds. SSSA, Madison WI.
Figure 3: Ectomycorrhizae are important for nutrient absorption by tree and grape roots. The fungus does not actually invade root cells but forms a sheath that penetrates between plant cells. The sheath in this photo is white, but they may be black, orange, pink, or yellow.
Credit: USDA, Forest Service, PNW Research Station, Corvallis, OregonFigure 4: The dark, round masses inside the cells of this clover root are vesicules for the arbuscular mycorrhizal fungus (AM).
Credit: Elaine R. Ingham
WHERE ARE FUNGI?
Saprophytic fungi are commonly active around woody plant residue. Fungal hyphae have advantages over bacteria in some soil environments. Under dry conditions, fungi can bridge gaps between pockets of moisture and continue to survive and grow, even when soil moisture is too low for most bacteria to be active. Fungi are able to use nitrogen up from the soil, allowing them to decompose surface residue which is often low in nitrogen.
Fungi are aerobic organisms. Soil which becomes anaerobic for significant periods generally loses its fungal component. Anaerobic conditions often occur in waterlogged soil and in compacted soils.
Fungi are especially extensive in forested lands. Forests have been observed to increase in productivity as fungal biomass increases.
Figure 5: In arid rangeland systems, such as southwestern deserts, fungi pipe scarce water and nutrients to plants.
Credit: Jerry Barrow, USDA-ARS Jornada Experimental Range, Las Cruces, NM.Figure 6: Mushrooms, common in forest systems, are the fruiting bodies made by a group of fungi called basidiomycetes. Mushrooms are "the tip of the iceberg" of an extensive network of underground hyphae.
Credit: Ann Lewandowski, NRCS Soil Quality Institute
MYCORRHIZAL FUNGI IN AGRICULTURE
Mycorrhiza is a symbiotic association between fungi and plant roots and is unlike either fungi or roots alone. Most trees and agricultural crops depend on or benefit substantially from mycorrhizae. The exceptions are many members of the Cruciferae family (e.g., broccoli, mustard), and the Chenopodiaceae family (e.g. lambsquarters, spinach, beets), which do not form mycorrhizal associations. The level of dependency on mycorrhizae varies greatly among varieties of some crops, including wheat and corn.
Land management practices affect the formation of mycorrhizae. The number of mycorrhizal fungi in soil will decline in fallowed fields or in those planted to crops that do not form mycorrhizae. Frequent tillage may reduce mycorrhizal associations, and broad spectrum fungicides are toxic to mycorrhizal fungi. Very high levels of nitrogen or phosphorus fertilizer may reduce inoculation of roots. Some inoculums of mycorrhizal fungi are commercially available and can be added to the soil at planting time
Hope this helps someone understand there soil mix and soil better. dirrtyd
Soil Biology
The Soil Biology Primer
Chapter 4: SOIL FUNGI
By Elaine R. Ingham
THE LIVING SOIL: FUNGI
Fungi are microscopic cells that usually grow as long threads or strands called hyphae, which push their way between soil particles, roots, and rocks. Hyphae are usually only several thousandths of an inch (a few micrometers) in diameter. A single hyphae can span in length from a few cells to many yards. A few fungi, such as yeast, are single cells.
Hyphae sometimes group into masses called mycelium or thick, cord-like “rhizomorphs” that look like roots. Fungal fruiting structures (mushrooms) are made of hyphal strands, spores, and some special structures like gills on which spores form. (See figure) A single individual fungus can include many fruiting bodies scattered across an area as large as a baseball diamond.
Fungi perform important services related to water dynamics, nutrient cycling, and disease suppression. Along with bacteria, fungi are important as decomposers in the soil food web. They convert hard-to-digest organic material into forms that other organisms can use. Fungal hyphae physically bind soil particles together, creating stable aggregates that help increase water infiltration and soil water holding capacity.
Soil fungi can be grouped into three general functional groups based on how they get their energy. Decomposers – saprophytic fungi – convert dead organic material into fungal biomass, carbon dioxide (CO2), and small molecules, such as organic acids. These fungi generally use complex substrates, such as the cellulose and lignin, in wood, and are essential in decomposing the carbon ring structures in some pollutants. A few fungi are called “sugar fungi” because they use the same simple substrates as do many bacteria. Like bacteria, fungi are important for immobilizing, or retaining, nutrients in the soil. In addition, many of the secondary metabolites of fungi are organic acids, so they help increase the accumulation of humic-acid rich organic matter that is resistant to degradation and may stay in the soil for hundreds of years.
Mutualists – the mycorrhizal fungi – colonize plant roots. In exchange for carbon from the plant, mycorrhizal fungi help solubolize phosphorus and bring soil nutrients (phosphorus, nitrogen, micronutrients, and perhaps water) to the plant. One major group of mycorrhizae, the ectomycorrhizae (Figure 3), grow on the surface layers of the roots and are commonly associated with trees. The second major group of mycorrhizae are the endomycorrhizae that grow within the root cells and are commonly associated with grasses, row crops, vegetables, and shrubs. Arbuscular mycorrhizal (AM) fungi (Figure 4) are a type of endomycorrhizal fungi. Ericoid mycorrhizal fungi can by either ecto- or endomycorrhizal.
The third group of fungi, pathogens or parasites, cause reduced production or death when they colonize roots and other organisms. Root-pathogenic fungi, such as Verticillium, Pythium, and Rhizoctonia, cause major economic losses in agriculture each year. Many fungi help control diseases. For example, nematode-trapping fungi that parasitize disease-causing nematodes, and fungi that feed on insects may be useful as biocontrol agents.
Credit: Randy Molina, Oregon State University, CorvallisFigure 2: Fungus beginning to decompose leaf veins in grass clippings.
Credit: No. 48 from Soil Microbiology and Biochemistry Slide Set. 1976. J.P. Martin, et al., eds. SSSA, Madison WI.
Credit: USDA, Forest Service, PNW Research Station, Corvallis, OregonFigure 4: The dark, round masses inside the cells of this clover root are vesicules for the arbuscular mycorrhizal fungus (AM).
Credit: Elaine R. Ingham
WHERE ARE FUNGI?
Saprophytic fungi are commonly active around woody plant residue. Fungal hyphae have advantages over bacteria in some soil environments. Under dry conditions, fungi can bridge gaps between pockets of moisture and continue to survive and grow, even when soil moisture is too low for most bacteria to be active. Fungi are able to use nitrogen up from the soil, allowing them to decompose surface residue which is often low in nitrogen.
Fungi are aerobic organisms. Soil which becomes anaerobic for significant periods generally loses its fungal component. Anaerobic conditions often occur in waterlogged soil and in compacted soils.
Fungi are especially extensive in forested lands. Forests have been observed to increase in productivity as fungal biomass increases.
Credit: Jerry Barrow, USDA-ARS Jornada Experimental Range, Las Cruces, NM.Figure 6: Mushrooms, common in forest systems, are the fruiting bodies made by a group of fungi called basidiomycetes. Mushrooms are "the tip of the iceberg" of an extensive network of underground hyphae.
Credit: Ann Lewandowski, NRCS Soil Quality Institute
MYCORRHIZAL FUNGI IN AGRICULTURE
Mycorrhiza is a symbiotic association between fungi and plant roots and is unlike either fungi or roots alone. Most trees and agricultural crops depend on or benefit substantially from mycorrhizae. The exceptions are many members of the Cruciferae family (e.g., broccoli, mustard), and the Chenopodiaceae family (e.g. lambsquarters, spinach, beets), which do not form mycorrhizal associations. The level of dependency on mycorrhizae varies greatly among varieties of some crops, including wheat and corn.
Land management practices affect the formation of mycorrhizae. The number of mycorrhizal fungi in soil will decline in fallowed fields or in those planted to crops that do not form mycorrhizae. Frequent tillage may reduce mycorrhizal associations, and broad spectrum fungicides are toxic to mycorrhizal fungi. Very high levels of nitrogen or phosphorus fertilizer may reduce inoculation of roots. Some inoculums of mycorrhizal fungi are commercially available and can be added to the soil at planting time
Hope this helps someone understand there soil mix and soil better. dirrtyd
dirrtyd
Well-Known Member
First off Thanks double JJ for stopping by. Well I'm trying to let folks know that you can grow more efficient if you understand what the soil does. It seems like when I think I have it I find another enlightening article somewhere. Overall I will see how the soil mix I use reacts after this years grow. I see my earthworm population growing overall so I feel good about the roots extending on my plants. Will give them some fungi upon transplant and let them go water only. All have a great grow. dirrtyd
growUS
Member
Wow dirrtyd, awesome experiment going on here. I have a mini green house I'll be using this season up to flower stage. I didn't know much about raised beds before coming here, i'm going to have to look into that. thanks
Something i do to my soil mix is add liquid carbon 2 weeks before i plant, its a great soil conditioner. The only brand i've been able to find is Monty's.
On a side note, you have a nice variety, if i may ask how does one go about getting those. This year i lucked out with high quality seeds but next year i would love to obtain seeds from high quality strains. Does everyone use seed banks? and are there any seed banks in US? sorry its a newb question.
Something i do to my soil mix is add liquid carbon 2 weeks before i plant, its a great soil conditioner. The only brand i've been able to find is Monty's.
On a side note, you have a nice variety, if i may ask how does one go about getting those. This year i lucked out with high quality seeds but next year i would love to obtain seeds from high quality strains. Does everyone use seed banks? and are there any seed banks in US? sorry its a newb question.
angryblackman
Well-Known Member
Great info dirrtyd! 
dirrtyd
Well-Known Member
thanks hopefully more will read the articles. dirrtydGreat info dirrtyd!
dirrtyd
Well-Known Member
Well its raining today the seedlings are all coming along good. I see a few females already and have not had to 12/12 them. This looks like it will be a good year. Some will read this and ask how did he know they were female. Well I can see the primordia and the pistil on the new growth. Makes me feel good too see this with the naked eye. I thought I saw it a month ago under the scope but now it is for sure. dirrtyd
dirrtyd
Well-Known Member
Well I took another look and I saw a couple more females . These are all seedlings that were sprouted on Christmas and New Years. I got a couple that look like they will be male but I have at least two of each strain that are female at this point. This is going to make putting them outside alot easier and space will not be wasted.dirrtyd
Gopedxr
Well-Known Member
http://www.lowes.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&cId=SEARCH&productId=3112005&cm_mmc=SCE_gps-_-gps-_-gps-_-Flowerhouse 6-1/2 x 6 x 6 Pop Up Greenhouse FHSP300
Is that the green house you have here in the thread? Looks kinda small but you said you can still yield a lot huh? I cant wait to see how this comes out
Is that the green house you have here in the thread? Looks kinda small but you said you can still yield a lot huh? I cant wait to see how this comes out
Gopedxr - What you can yield is entirely in your hands. I know it sucks to hear this. The strain you choose will determine whether or not you can even yield a high quantity. Next you must give the plant optimum growing conditions. If you understand how plants grow in general, you will have a major hand up in this game! I believe what is important is making sure the plant receives generous amounts of light each day, plenty of water, enough food - without over fertilizing, while also not under fertilizing and not allowing the plant to grow to its potential. And keeping the plants free of pests. If you can keep a plant watered, properly fed, pest free, and in a place the sun shines, you are good to go. There are other factors that can help, such as making sure it has a wind break, and isn't beaten down by gusts of wind..etc. Good luck brother, and happy growing!
dirrtyd
Well-Known Member
That is not the greenhouse that I have. I guess all nonbelievers will have to stay tuned because this is going to be good. I will be using the strains that I grew last year and a few from seed some mine some purchased. I have only enhanced my soil mix this year everything else will be the same. If you read the thread and the articles I'm sure you will find something interesting. All questions and comments welcome.dirrtyd
dirrtyd
Well-Known Member
At present I have a few ladies that are 18 to 36 inches some clones some seedlings. The first ones will go out 4 20 11 the rest the first weekend in May. When they are done I imagine them to all be at least 4 feet minimum. dirrtyd
buenodiasmf
Well-Known Member
dirty d-
as you know i put my shit outside already and im flowering........
what could i expect to see in terms of growth or stress since they were pre flowering for at least another month untill the legit sun comes mid april.?
for example will my growth stunt, will buds die if i dont trim them off, essentially how should i treat my plant, ignore the flowering and pretend she is going to be in veg and she will be soon enough,
or are the precations i need to take before i lose my whole crop.??
as you know i put my shit outside already and im flowering........
what could i expect to see in terms of growth or stress since they were pre flowering for at least another month untill the legit sun comes mid april.?
for example will my growth stunt, will buds die if i dont trim them off, essentially how should i treat my plant, ignore the flowering and pretend she is going to be in veg and she will be soon enough,
or are the precations i need to take before i lose my whole crop.??
dirrtyd
Well-Known Member
If I remember correctly you are close but far. Your light will not hit 14 hours until May the 12th or there about. so depending on the strain they could possibly finish flowering. I would cut the big buds leave the rest you will know they are revegging when you see the single leaf shoots coming out. She will rpobably go back into veg around first week of June if your are lucky. dirrtyd
dirrtyd
Well-Known Member
Yes I have them in some one gallon containers. When they go in the ground trust me they will explode. Remember i'm working with the same genetics as last year. Oh also azomite and crabmeal have been added to the mix. dirrtydDirty- at almost 4 months, you have been able to keep them at 36"?? daannggg!!! I have tried to not push mine at all, and they're sitting at 4'.. after a whopping 3 months. Spring is slow to come