CFL Grow: 85w cfl perpetual SOG op
- Thread starter hmk024
- Start date
brick20
Well-Known Member
BTW... I would like any perpetuals out there to sub-up and join the club...
THE PREPETUAL GARDEN GROWERS THREADxxx
im rounding em all up
THE PREPETUAL GARDEN GROWERS THREADxxx
im rounding em all up
hmk024
Active Member
I dont veg them long, maybe a week. I put them in the cups and let them sort of adjust to the new container and coco, and if they arent shocked or dying after that time, i throw em in the box, they go in about 2-4 inches tall, depending on the cutting length. I try to keep them uniform, but some tend to be lil longer/shorter. Im sorta basing my grow from Dr. Bud's micro cfl grow, except my box is a little taller and i have more powerful lights than what he was using, but basically 4 plants in, 4 plants out will be the cycle. Thanks for checking my post! more to come!
brick20
Well-Known Member
I see the stalks of your girls if you supper-cropped em in veg(squeezing and bending the lower part of the main stem) i promise u that u will get a better yield research and try this method...
U could even do a trail by doing it to half and leave the other half normal and compare the results...
The earlier in the stage you do it the better...
imma see if i can find that link on it for u...
U could even do a trail by doing it to half and leave the other half normal and compare the results...
The earlier in the stage you do it the better...
imma see if i can find that link on it for u...
brick20
Well-Known Member
hmk024
Active Member
Ive seen a friend of mine show me the FIM technique, i thought it was crazyness but shows it works well if u have patient hands and the knowledge of where to make your cuts. This is my first harvest, so the first 4 are just for fun to see how well the bud and feeding cycles are, see if i should up it to get better yeilds or scale it back, trial run if anything. Today im planning on picking up some Hydroplex, also i might be getting this stuff called Gravity by Humbolt somethingrather. Supposed to dense up the nugs the last 2 weeks, since i went ahead and put a daylight bulb on the side i will be pulling plants from. Testing out to see if that will help it yeild higher than its looking now. I will def check that link out man, thanks a ton!
t0rn
Well-Known Member
As you can see it's a little box with a SOG method, how would cropping colas over to the side increase yield in a small space like that. They would just be on top of each other and blocking stuff to the side of the cropped area as well. I think this guy has it figured out in the space usage category.
brick20
Well-Known Member
all he has to do is pinch and bend each stem below the cola then tie it to the stock to stand up, that way it blocks nothing and this would give him a better yield... u obviously don't need extra space to do that
t0rn
Well-Known Member
People usually supercrop for 3 reasons:
1. To keep an even canopy level on a larger plant/plants
2. To create more light on the side of branches creating multiple colas from a single branch (done during veg)
3. To stop a branch/cola that's growing out of control from growing into a light
Bending/pinching/snapping a stem are ways of getting light to the sides of branches or lower stuff in the canopy. What is bending a stem and putting it back up going to do for you?
1. To keep an even canopy level on a larger plant/plants
2. To create more light on the side of branches creating multiple colas from a single branch (done during veg)
3. To stop a branch/cola that's growing out of control from growing into a light
Bending/pinching/snapping a stem are ways of getting light to the sides of branches or lower stuff in the canopy. What is bending a stem and putting it back up going to do for you?
brick20
Well-Known Member
Good question...
It would damage the tissue where it was pinch or bend and the plant will intern repair it self making that area bigger and all areas above it bigger giving u a supper highway to pass nutrients to the buds making them really swell up
t0rn
Well-Known Member
That statement is suspect, both right and wrong. You're right in the fact that the plant will become thicker at the bend spot. The stem above the bend, or the thickness created from stress, isn't going to get bigger. That being said it won't be able to channel as much fluids through itself than it would have before. Besides, the amount of transpiration that determines nutrient uptake is dependent on environment (temp/air circulation/humidity/amount of light).
Super-croping is used for the reasons I stated above in the other post.
brick20
Well-Known Member
This pretty much answers your question
Super Cropping - SOG Style
Welcome soggers to the wonderful world of supercropping. Though it may seem somewhat cruel and evil to abuse one's children, I assure you that such things are permissable and encouraged if your children happen to be pretty female flowers.
I recommend High Times' "Best of" issue for 2001 for an excellent pictorial demonstration on how supercropping is done.
I'll do the best I can to explain it in words:
Supercropping is based on a pretty simple principle: strong plants will become stronger if forced to endure certain types of stress. In this case, that type of stress is breaking the inner husk of the meristem (In SCROG you would be breaking a number of branches, not just the meristem). Once broken, the husk is given a week to recover in which time the stem becomes thicker, growth becomes more vigorous, nutrient uptake increases, and bud size as well.
If you notice the photos above, the large skunk plants were vegged for 7 days in 4" rockwool cubes and the colas are obviously quite large. In fact, they are very large for plants that were only vegged for seven days in 4" cubes, and those pics were taken at 50 days 12/12 so you can imagine how large they were at 70 when harvested. It was an initial experiment with the supercropping method, and more intensive treatments would surely produce even more pronounced effects provided adequate support was given (see below).
Technique and timing is crucial, but it's really quite easy if you know how. After clones have established themsleves in the 4" cubes you begin.
First treatment should occur on the meristem beneath the top grow shoot. To break the husk, you simply pinch the stem in between your thumb and forefinger (like a spliff) and gently crush it while simultaneously moving your fingers in opposite directions (just like break up a small nug of dry sensi). It is good to gently bend the cutting over so that the injury becomes more pronounced and the clone wilts. Remember in my first installment, I suggested placing bamboo poles in the cubes when transplanting. Well they come in really handy at this point and will throughout the supercropping experience.
You will notice much more vigorous growth over the next few days, and the cuttings will really begin to take off. After the initial wound is healed, and several new leaf nodes have grown (best rule is when growth has doubled) you may resume the process, this time working larger areas between the nodes, and leaving about 2" space between each break. I like to vary it quite a bit, making fairly large 3" wounds, and then several smaller breaks. Remember to give adequate recovery time for best results.
You may wonder if you have to change the technique once the plant gets larger, and my answer is yes and no. You continue to pinch and twist the stem, but you also have to listen for the sound of the husk breaking to make sure you're doing adequate damage. Practice makes perfect. It's really not that hard, and you'll catch on pretty quick. You'll also find that even severe damage can be done to the stems without affecting growth (as long as you are supporting it properly so that it is not strangling itself), and will in fact increase bud weight in the end. Some of the largest colas I've seen have had horrible-looking wounds all the way up the meristem. The key is to providing a proper environment for recovery by giving them adequate time, using support, keeping food and environmental conditions at optimum levels.
Also remember to re-break already broken areas once they have fully healed.
When flowering is initiated and the girls begin to stretch, you should work every several inches up the meristem making large and small wounds. Not all the breaks should be equally traumatic. Try to keep it to one or two severe breaks each treatment. The B1 I recommended in my last post will help a lot in the early days of flowering. Your girls will just love it (sort of). You can probably up your food levels to 1800EC right after you go to 12/12 since they will be eating A LOT to recover (like a bodybuilder. A bodybuilding plant, I wonder if you can give your plants Deca?)
The treatment is to be repeated until 3 weeks into bloom. You will be pleased with the results. Also note that additional support may be necessary since the top colas of these supercropped plants become so large that the rockwool cubes cannot support their weight and they tip over creating a horrible mess. One friend's grow had to be harvested a week early because of such a tragedy. Packing Hydroton or rockwool between your cubes might help keep them supported. The panda film also helps to keep the cubes in their place. If you wanted to get fancy some reinforced chicken wire would be solid. This would also help to keep your profile in check during the stretch.
Super Cropping - SOG Style
Welcome soggers to the wonderful world of supercropping. Though it may seem somewhat cruel and evil to abuse one's children, I assure you that such things are permissable and encouraged if your children happen to be pretty female flowers.
I recommend High Times' "Best of" issue for 2001 for an excellent pictorial demonstration on how supercropping is done.
I'll do the best I can to explain it in words:
Supercropping is based on a pretty simple principle: strong plants will become stronger if forced to endure certain types of stress. In this case, that type of stress is breaking the inner husk of the meristem (In SCROG you would be breaking a number of branches, not just the meristem). Once broken, the husk is given a week to recover in which time the stem becomes thicker, growth becomes more vigorous, nutrient uptake increases, and bud size as well.
If you notice the photos above, the large skunk plants were vegged for 7 days in 4" rockwool cubes and the colas are obviously quite large. In fact, they are very large for plants that were only vegged for seven days in 4" cubes, and those pics were taken at 50 days 12/12 so you can imagine how large they were at 70 when harvested. It was an initial experiment with the supercropping method, and more intensive treatments would surely produce even more pronounced effects provided adequate support was given (see below).
Technique and timing is crucial, but it's really quite easy if you know how. After clones have established themsleves in the 4" cubes you begin.
First treatment should occur on the meristem beneath the top grow shoot. To break the husk, you simply pinch the stem in between your thumb and forefinger (like a spliff) and gently crush it while simultaneously moving your fingers in opposite directions (just like break up a small nug of dry sensi). It is good to gently bend the cutting over so that the injury becomes more pronounced and the clone wilts. Remember in my first installment, I suggested placing bamboo poles in the cubes when transplanting. Well they come in really handy at this point and will throughout the supercropping experience.
You will notice much more vigorous growth over the next few days, and the cuttings will really begin to take off. After the initial wound is healed, and several new leaf nodes have grown (best rule is when growth has doubled) you may resume the process, this time working larger areas between the nodes, and leaving about 2" space between each break. I like to vary it quite a bit, making fairly large 3" wounds, and then several smaller breaks. Remember to give adequate recovery time for best results.
You may wonder if you have to change the technique once the plant gets larger, and my answer is yes and no. You continue to pinch and twist the stem, but you also have to listen for the sound of the husk breaking to make sure you're doing adequate damage. Practice makes perfect. It's really not that hard, and you'll catch on pretty quick. You'll also find that even severe damage can be done to the stems without affecting growth (as long as you are supporting it properly so that it is not strangling itself), and will in fact increase bud weight in the end. Some of the largest colas I've seen have had horrible-looking wounds all the way up the meristem. The key is to providing a proper environment for recovery by giving them adequate time, using support, keeping food and environmental conditions at optimum levels.
Also remember to re-break already broken areas once they have fully healed.
When flowering is initiated and the girls begin to stretch, you should work every several inches up the meristem making large and small wounds. Not all the breaks should be equally traumatic. Try to keep it to one or two severe breaks each treatment. The B1 I recommended in my last post will help a lot in the early days of flowering. Your girls will just love it (sort of). You can probably up your food levels to 1800EC right after you go to 12/12 since they will be eating A LOT to recover (like a bodybuilder. A bodybuilding plant, I wonder if you can give your plants Deca?)
The treatment is to be repeated until 3 weeks into bloom. You will be pleased with the results. Also note that additional support may be necessary since the top colas of these supercropped plants become so large that the rockwool cubes cannot support their weight and they tip over creating a horrible mess. One friend's grow had to be harvested a week early because of such a tragedy. Packing Hydroton or rockwool between your cubes might help keep them supported. The panda film also helps to keep the cubes in their place. If you wanted to get fancy some reinforced chicken wire would be solid. This would also help to keep your profile in check during the stretch.
brick20
Well-Known Member
You've came to the right place to learn...
I used to just LST my SOG plants to get a better yield, until i stumbled across this site and seen so much about super cropping....
Then i ordered some seeds and got a pure gold as a freebe and supper crop it and the whole plant got so thick that i was not able to super-crop it again...
Ever since then as soon as my clones root i super-crop em alil before its transplanted
t0rn
Well-Known Member
That above isn't super-croping, it's one of the effect of super-cropping that he has utilized to create a knotty stem in order to make it thicker. I don't see pictures, but it seems like he's working with much larger plants. He says he makes 3" wounds with several smaller wounds and then another larger wound, mixing it up.
As you can see in this grow he doesn't have much veg time in order to keep the plants at a manageable height. Also in your post it says he doesn't do it later than 3 weeks into flower. Going from clone to knotting the hell out of your stem for the first 3 weeks of flowering doesn't sound like it would work out too hot.
As you can see in this grow he doesn't have much veg time in order to keep the plants at a manageable height. Also in your post it says he doesn't do it later than 3 weeks into flower. Going from clone to knotting the hell out of your stem for the first 3 weeks of flowering doesn't sound like it would work out too hot.
t0rn
Well-Known Member
You keep getting all your techniques mixed up. SOG is having a large number of plants in a smaller area. You do this in order to get single cola plants. You don't have the extended vegging period of LSTing your plants. You LST your plants in order to get multiple colas, therefore creating a bushier plant and putting less plants per square foot.