60 Plant Grow Setup

trenton

Well-Known Member
FDD I have a great idea. Lets go and hit up the clubs in the city this weekend. We will find the cheese clone somewhere. We can veg it into a mother at my house and use it for cuttings. Im serious here. :mrgreen:
 

CALIGROWN

Well-Known Member
FDD I have a great idea. Lets go and hit up the clubs in the city this weekend. We will find the cheese clone somewhere. We can veg it into a mother at my house and use it for cuttings. Im serious here. :mrgreen:
ummmmmmmmm.............hey guys......hey guys.......over here...over here.....iiiiiiiiiiiiii ffffffoooooouuuuuunnnnnddddddd sssssooooooommmmmmeeeeeee.....................
 

jmac

Well-Known Member
You guys are starting to hurt my feelings with all that sharing over there in cali,I was born there should'nt that count for something ?
 

trenton

Well-Known Member
OK well just go to caligrown. I have a question I ran the sulfur burner for 3 hours today. Ive noticed some real heavy moisture spots on some leaved. Is this caused by the sulfur burner, Also, I still se powder mildew and I wanto to say it's getting a little worse. Should I run the sulfur burner for longer tomorrow. Pleeeeeaasse help.
 

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
OK well just go to caligrown. I have a question I ran the sulfur burner for 3 hours today. Ive noticed some real heavy moisture spots on some leaved. Is this caused by the sulfur burner, Also, I still se powder mildew and I wanto to say it's getting a little worse. Should I run the sulfur burner for longer tomorrow. Pleeeeeaasse help.

the moisture on your leaves is most likely because the fans were off. it should dry right up once the fans and lights come on. run it longer tomorrow.
 

CALIGROWN

Well-Known Member
it will look like it's getting worse for about a day or 2 max....it freaked me out too....but you should start to notice a difference soon...is there a way to set it on a timer and have it go on and off in 15-20 minute intervals?? if so that is how it is used most efficiently...run it again 3 hours..then the next day if it is not looking any7 better try running it in intervals the whole time the lights are off.....15 on...15 off...and so on....
 

trenton

Well-Known Member
Caligrown thanks but that interval thing doesnt make any sence. Ive read up on the sulfur burners and the way it works is once the sufur turns into a liquid form it is able to absorb itself into the leaves creating an acidic environment which kills powerdy mildew. Sulfur burners take at least 15 minutes for the sulfur to turn into liquid...Let me know what you think. I will get more timers tomorrow and run it for 4 hours I am also sealing off any cracks i see in the garage with duct tape. (could help)
 

CALIGROWN

Well-Known Member
ok...i just got off the phone with my buddy..he is using a pot right now for 30 clones in a hydro set up...he said he runs it for 3 days a week.....he goes 1 hour and 15 minutes on 1 hour and 45 minutes off..so it turns on 4 times during the 12 hours dark...he said he gets powder mildew every time, and that from the time he sees the mildew it takes about 10-14 days till it's completely gone and you can not see it anymore..he said in some spots there will be spots where its not gone and he just wipes it off the leaf with a damp cloth and thats it...he continues to run it for the rest of the flowering period because he said if it comes back a couple weeks later you may not have time to get rid of all of it again before harvest time....so its just some advise but this guy does know what he's talking about for the most part...I was kind of his apprentice back in the day...:peace::peace:
 

CALIGROWN

Well-Known Member
yes sir.....and im watching a video right now where a guy has 2 burners...in a smaller room then you..they said as long as you have a good air system that flips on right when the lights do, it wont hurt them one bit...but you have to remember its only 3 days a week..and also people use those ether things for the sent instead of carbon filters, and that has to be a lot worse for the bud then the sulfur...but anyways....like I said thats just what my buddy said about how he uses his and its effective...if you watch "urban grower" episodes I think there are a couple where they explain how they use the burner and why..
 

trenton

Well-Known Member
Caligrown does you buddy completley turn off all the intake, exhaust and oscallating fans while the burner is running.
 

trenton

Well-Known Member
I have done some research on marijuanahydro.com and I dont think I have powdery mildew. I think I have what is called Fungis Botrytis. Powdery MIldew is always fluffy white where as Fungis Botrytis is grey patches. Read this.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a common fungus that can rapidly infect a crop. Like Fungus
Botrytis and mold it can be prevented using good ventilation and low humidity
levels.

Powdery mildew starts its life, grows and produces spores much like Fungus Botrytis, except that powdery mildew does not turn gray but stays a fluffy white color. Powdery mildew is easier to wipe off than Fungus Botrytis but tends to spread more quickly than Fungus Botrytis, causing the plant's leaves to be covered in a white film. This inhibits photosynthesis and leads to stunted growth. Powdery Mildew also rots bud.

Powdery mildew can be curbed using the same techniques used in the treatment of Fungus Botrytis.

Fungus Botrytis
This is the most common variety of fungus found on cannabis plants. It is also called gray mold, gray blight or Botrytis blight. It begins its life as a white powder-like growth, which eventually turns gray as it spreads.
[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Fungus Botrytis forms spores that dislodge and are spread to neighboring plants. The spores can stay dormant for quite some time, so growers should treat all the plants in the surrounding area for Fungus Botrytis. This is because the fungus has a high tendency to stealth spread itself without notice in spore format. Spores do not need living matter to stay alive.They can lay dormant almost anywhere.
If you can solve a Fungus Botrytis problem quickly then you may prevent spores from being produced and this is why growers need to keep a close eye on their plants. Fungi are very hard to clean by hand. Rotted areas must be clipped away instead.

Fungus Botrytis will grow wherever it comes in contact with plant nutrients.This means that the fungus is more likely to be found developing on necrotic plant tissue or other damaged areas of the plant where the nutrients are more readily accessible. From here it spreads to other areas of the plant causing its feeding patches to rot. Cut areas after pruning and cloning are especially susceptible to Fungus Botrytis.

High humidity will cause fungi to spread more rapidly so lower humidity levels if needed. In some cases, lowering the humidity is all that is needed to prevent the fungi from spreading. Mold should also be treated the same way. If lowering the humidity does not solve fungi or mold problems then you need to apply a fungicide on the infected areas. Fungicides can be used on the infected areas to remove the fungus — preventing further plant rot. Spores tend to fall downwards so remove the top layer of soil from your infected plant and throw this away. After harvest, a previously infected grow area should be cleaned down to prevent further fungi growth during your next crop.
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