Full tilt med SCROG. blue w, mango cush, jack herrer. Ebb/flow, co2, botanicare

Buick455gs

Active Member
Buick, the higher amount of salts, minerals, etc in your solution, the more buffeting qualaties it has and the more resistant to ph swings it will be. That's why codger only needs to add a couple drops of acid to lower his ppm 0 RO water. I think that the precipitate on your hydroton is many things besides calcium. You must keep your nutes pretty low though huh? I'm planning to run about 1800 ppm of bloom during flower. That would lock the shit out of your plants. 900 ppm from the tap though? Jesus I would probably ro my drinking water at those levels.
So 5.5 to 6.2 over a week is a big jump in ph? Never had any problems. I run at about 1600 ppm on top of the 900 ppm out of the tap. So thats 2500 ppm. But I do use Gen Hydro Hardwater micro. As far as ph I don't think 2tsp of ph down for a 20 res is alot. Do you? And my wifes grandfather built this house in the 30's so they've been drinking the water for there whole lives with no problems.
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
No I don't think that is a big jump. The minerals etc in your water are likely buffering the ph. 2 tsps sounds about right. I use about 10 mls. If you have copper plumbing I wouldn't sweat the drinking water....if galvanized iron though... Getting a heavy metal test wouldn't be a bad idea. Our parents lived in a time when the were not bombarded daily by pollutants of every sort. Look at cancer rates over the last 40 years. Ugghhh.

But anyways. If it's not broke don't fix it :)
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Ok, so getting back on track with the actual grow
hydroton issue now solved I'm focusing on dealing with the nutrient defficiency. Lessons learned - 1. treat your hydroton before use with ph water. 2. Follow the label, not some nutrient schedule someone posted.

Anyways...
Nutes:
20 gallon rez with 7ml/gallon cal mag and 15ml/gallon grow. 3tsp ph up results in:
930 PPM total.

Enviro: lights 17" from plants. Averge 65k lumen
1000 ppm of co2
18/6 lights.
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Update: things are going quite well. Plants responded very well to nute PPMs in the range of 1100 ppm. At about 5 nodes now. Fidded two plants and started to LST another.

Biggest change is the addition of a humidifier. Read a very good article in the urban Gardner about relative humidity, vapor pressure and vapor pressure differential VPD. At increasing temps the ideal humidity jumps rapidly. The higher humidity avoids excess transpiration as plants don't generally like their stomata wide open under a hot light and fans. The end result is papery leafs and wasted energy on transpiration. This was counter intuative to me as I thought super transpiration would be ideal but apparantly it is not.

So at 85-88 degrees I have them at 80% RH. They look much happier...so I'm much happier.
 

xivex

Active Member
Update: things are going quite well. Plants responded very well to nute PPMs in the range of 1100 ppm. At about 5 nodes now. Fidded two plants and started to LST another.

Biggest change is the addition of a humidifier. Read a very good article in the urban Gardner about relative humidity, vapor pressure and vapor pressure differential VPD. At increasing temps the ideal humidity jumps rapidly. The higher humidity avoids excess transpiration as plants don't generally like their stomata wide open under a hot light and fans. The end result is papery leafs and wasted energy on transpiration. This was counter intuative to me as I thought super transpiration would be ideal but apparantly it is not.

So at 85-88 degrees I have them at 80% RH. They look much happier...so I'm much happier.
I read that same article in Urban Grower and was also quite intrigued by it. I'm worried about the increasing humidity levels though. How do you deal with the threat of mold/botrytis? Or Spider Mites?

Thanks,

X
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Well I'm in a sealed room so not too worried about the mites. I don't know how dependant the mites are on humidity as I have seen horrendous, horror show style mites in rooms with 60-70% humidity. The molds and what not I'll just have to keep an eye out for. I'm using co2 so the high humidity is critical to keeping the stomata open in the high temps so co2 absorption can take place. I think I misquoted above cause I was posting and driving but the stomata close in the high heat and 50-60% Humidity to slow transpiration so the plants don't wilt. Noticed a little leaf margin curl up this morning which can happen from mg defeciency or high humididty. Have to look into that a little.

The article made ALLOT of sense to me, especially since I'm spending money to keep co2 at 1300 ppm
 

xivex

Active Member
Well I'm in a sealed room so not too worried about the mites. I don't know how dependant the mites are on humidity as I have seen horrendous, horror show style mites in rooms with 60-70% humidity. The molds and what not I'll just have to keep an eye out for. I'm using co2 so the high humidity is critical to keeping the stomata open in the high temps so co2 absorption can take place. I think I misquoted above cause I was posting and driving but the stomata close in the high heat and 50-60% Humidity to slow transpiration so the plants don't wilt. Noticed a little leaf margin curl up this morning which can happen from mg defeciency or high humididty. Have to look into that a little.

The article made ALLOT of sense to me, especially since I'm spending money to keep co2 at 1300 ppm
Beautiful man! I'm in a sealed room too, this is my first grow, so I'm going to learn all I can from you! Thanks!! Stop in and check out my grow journal sometime, gimme some tips :)
 

ScrogThis

Active Member
Wouldn't worry much about mites, they like a lower humidity - usually below 60% I would keep an eye out for gray & white molds, I think your temps are out of the ideal range for pythium - 60-78 degrees F but about perfect for white mold. As much as you tend them I doubt it would get past you but keep an eye out down low, hydroton, stem, bottom leaves.
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Thanks Scrog. I learned a valuable lesson about four days ago. If you push your plants like a race car, if one aspect goes wrong at high speed then the results are immediate.

Case in point.. Close lights, high temps, and a humidifier that I forgot to refill.... I woke up to top leaves that looked like tootsie rolls. Pinpointed the problem to low humidity stress that was localized in the canopy. Not surprising as the humidity dropped to 38%. Anyways, the plants bounced back and they have FUCKIN EXPLODED! Came back from 4 days of work travel and couldn't believe my eyes. The FIM'd cushes look like hedges and the LST'd and topped plants are also filling out big time.
No doubt to the 1200 ppm solution AND ph that has remained steady at 6.0. I'll post some pics later.
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
As promised, here are the pictures. This is week 3 for the plants, I lost about a week from starving them the first week.

Changed the nutrient solution yesterday to the following:
15 ml/ gallon Grow
5 ml/ gallon cal mag
7 ml/gallon liquid karma ( I may just cut this off as the hydro store guy said just save it for flower.
6 tbs of general hydro culture M (myco's)


A couple shots of the flood table. Then a few individual pictures showing : leaf curl from humidity drop, mega-branches from FIMing, and close ups of the blue widows that I can believe how dense they are right now.

IMG_3746.jpgIMG_3750.jpgIMG_3752.jpgIMG_3749.jpgIMG_3748.jpgIMG_3754.jpgIMG_3753.jpgIMG_3751.jpg
 

xivex

Active Member
As promised, here are the pictures. This is week 3 for the plants, I lost about a week from starving them the first week.

Changed the nutrient solution yesterday to the following:
15 ml/ gallon Grow
5 ml/ gallon cal mag
7 ml/gallon liquid karma ( I may just cut this off as the hydro store guy said just save it for flower.
6 tbs of general hydro culture M (myco's)


A couple shots of the flood table. Then a few individual pictures showing : leaf curl from humidity drop, mega-branches from FIMing, and close ups of the blue widows that I can believe how dense they are right now.

View attachment 1240853View attachment 1240854View attachment 1240855View attachment 1240856View attachment 1240857View attachment 1240858View attachment 1240859View attachment 1240860
Those are some dense ass plants man! Wow. I want my seedlings to grow up like that! :) What is the white line in pic 1,2, and 3? It seems to be laying on the plant. What is that? Just curious!

Thanks,

X
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
the white line is just the wire to he temp/humidity sensor in the canopy. I set all my room controls by the readings on that sensor, not on the other sensors in the room.
 

xivex

Active Member
noboody else has any comments on the density of those plants? Are they too dense do you think?
They are pretty fucking bushlike man. But I thought that was a good thing, no? :) You could lollipop prune them before flower? Just a though...looking good tho!
 

ScrogThis

Active Member
Just got back to see your pics, that is some ridiculously dense foliage! Great looking plants! How tall are they at this point? imho I'd start LST immediately else you'll have a lot of fun trying to train them to the screen. When I flipped to 12/12 mine grew an inch or two/day for almost two weeks. With your setup it won't be as critical but I only had 20" of room above the screen.
 
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