Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Yep, doing better lately, more like 1z per plant.just a few questions...
~u get about 3/4 of an ounce per plant on avg?
Floods to the height of the overflow tube included with the flood tray (approx 70mm), no calculations at all.~how deep do you flood a table? is there a specific method to figuring it out depending on the numbers of plants?
No, you would need one 1000 per each 4'x5' (20sq ft) tray. You're looking for 50W/sq ft.~will a 1000watt HPS light be fine for 2 4'x5' tables? seems like overkill on the lumens. then again, im probably doing the calculations wrong.
Yep.~i can fit 4 plants per square foot right? so that means around 80 plants on a 4x5 table?
Figure you need to cut about 10-20% more clones than you intend to flower. I get 30 cuttings every 2 weeks from 8-10 mother plants, intending to flower about 23 of them. Spares become replacement mums or compost.~how do i figure the number of mums needed to provide the number of cuttings i need for those size tables?
Not sure I understand what you mean. What goes in is what goes out. If your exhaust blower can shift the room air volume out in 2-3 minutes, it's got to come back in from somewhere- or you have a vacuum! Make sure your exhaust air can not be sucked right back into the op.~i got the exhaust set for full air exchange every 2-3 minutes. but what about air intake for fresh air?
If you use passive intake (no intake blower), the intake duct must be 2x the size of the exhaust for reasonably efficient operation. If you use intake blower/s, the rate of intake should not be more than about 80-90% of the exhaust rate so the room remains at slightly negative pressure. This aids in scent control- all air leaving the room goes through the exhaust duct. If the intake blower can put more air into the room than the exhaust blower can remove, the room will be at a slightly positive pressure relative to atmosphere. Scents will leak out from any small air gaps.