Kitty's 6000 Watt Ebb & Flo, pictures galore, continually updated never ending oh no!

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Topped and uptopped, plants look great.

I disagree with laceygirl regarding the light thingie. Some of the best gardens I've seen are where 1,000W lights are hanging a meter above the plants. You gauge plant health by color and vigor. Too much light will bleach out chlorophyll....then you can just hang it up regarding your crop.

Heat and light saturation points are totally different issues. You WILL screw up a plant if you think you can hang a 1,000W lamp 30 cms from their tops while maintaining a cool or cold temp at leaf level.

Good luck,
UB
 

laceygirl

Well-Known Member
Topped and uptopped, plants look great.

I disagree with laceygirl regarding the light thingie. Some of the best gardens I've seen are where 1,000W lights are hanging a meter above the plants. You gauge plant health by color and vigor. Too much light will bleach out chlorophyll....then you can just hang it up regarding your crop.

Heat and light saturation points are totally different issues. You WILL screw up a plant if you think you can hang a 1,000W lamp 30 cms from their tops while maintaining a cool or cold temp at leaf level.

Good luck,
UB
Not disagreeing with you Uncle Ben, you are my grow guru, but please have a look at my journal at my Super Lemon Haze, they are vibrant and healthy and loving the fake sun... I was only pointing out she could get them closer, not as close as mine maybe, but yeah make a little better use of the lumens... Don't bleach your plants but create the ideal conditions for them... I'll go for 10 inches closer.???

Laceygirl...
 

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
I'm subbed. Your plants are looking good. I just topped 2 of my girls UB-style, and I'm gonna do a few more soon. Love the direct controlled experimenting.
Daniels
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Not disagreeing with you Uncle Ben, you are my grow guru, but please have a look at my journal at my Super Lemon Haze, they are vibrant and healthy and loving the fake sun... I was only pointing out she could get them closer, not as close as mine maybe, but yeah make a little better use of the lumens... Don't bleach your plants but create the ideal conditions for them... I'll go for 10 inches closer.???

Laceygirl...
Your success speaks for itself, just seen so many gardens screwed up by giving too much light and once the damage is done, it's done, there is no recovery. I'd rather err on the "light" side than push them over the edge. You can give a plant alot of light if you balance out factors that produce and maintain chlorophyll - plenty of N, Fe, Mg....good temps etc. Looks like you got it sussed Lacey. ;)

Best,
UB
 

researchkitty

Well-Known Member
Hi kitty been reading your posts, I'd love to have a basement, it would be the best... For now I have to use my double garage...lol...

I only have one tiny piece of advice as you seem to have everything else well taken care of...

Get those lights closer to your plants and get a thermometer in the top of the pots with the plants so you can monitor the temps to see how close you can get your lights... It seems to me you are wasting a lot of lumens just in distance... My 1000watt are only 22 inches away from my plants and the temp is a perfect 28 degrees celcius, sorry about the temps, I'm Australian...lol..

You will see greater growth and your plants will love you for it...

Laceygirl...;-)
Thanks Lacey! :) The plants are about 2 feet from the lights right now -- the reason I kept them far away is because they've been vegging from sprouts to where they are now under 1000watt lamps. I really wanted to keep them a bit farther away than normal because of their size. The new veg room is almost done, which gives me a much easier setup for sure. I'm going to be rewiring the room over this weekend for the new lights so it'll all be changed up soon!! Thanks for subbing too!


Topped and uptopped, plants look great.

I disagree with laceygirl regarding the light thingie. Some of the best gardens I've seen are where 1,000W lights are hanging a meter above the plants. You gauge plant health by color and vigor. Too much light will bleach out chlorophyll....then you can just hang it up regarding your crop.

Heat and light saturation points are totally different issues. You WILL screw up a plant if you think you can hang a 1,000W lamp 30 cms from their tops while maintaining a cool or cold temp at leaf level.

Good luck,
UB
White rice alert!! ;) I forgot to mention too, that once the plants flip to flower, that the lights will be closer. The vortex fan is only on about 1/2 speed right now and temperatures are perfect, so it gives me a lot more light room to grow.





With respect to CO2, sure it speeds up flowering by a few days and adds a bit of weight, but the overall propane and electric cost, or the cost of bringing in co2 tanks etc.... for a room this size and then having to A/C it with that electric as well....

Also keeping in mind I have a 4800watt Kiln for glass blowing......

I think for now my decision on Co2 will be NO Co2, until after all the lights get setup so I can properly analyze what would be needed to cool it and maintain it.......

Thanks everyone!
 

Murfy

Well-Known Member
i also run my lights close with benefits-
i think alot depends on TEMP and NUTES
what is your take on co2 and cabs or houses unc?

i use pegboard for a floor and the fans are in the top with circulating fans at plant level so continuous upward flow of fresh air is present
 

researchkitty

Well-Known Member
Another day another update!

Thanks again for all the positive comments regarding the topping experiment. Received a few nice PM's about it as well.



...the room was consolidated bringing lights A and B closer to each other so that the light overlaps plants instead of overlapping concrete. Thanks for the suggestions on that!





...this is as far back as I could get with the camera to show the size of the room thats open now with the lights in their right spots. Much bigger. =) Room for probably 10,000 watts but 6,000 watts is the max I plan for it anyhow.





...moved the carbon filter and fan to the top of the room instead of hanging. Its noisy now that its mounted, and I already know I have to remount it with some noise cancelling material behind it to smooth out vibrations a bit more, but that'll wait till later.





Another shot showing the room size from the other corner.





...light A, all of the topped plants (nine)





...light B, all of the untopped plants (eleven). I was going to make moms out of some, but decided not to. The 12th plant ("mutant"), is now in the veg room.....





...aah yes, the veg room all in bandaid fashion right now. :) :) The mutant is in there as well as the next batch of seeds which will be flowered under the soon-to-be-hung lights C and D.

....and finally.......



.......the momement a grower loves in a new grow space..........


................F L O W E R I N G D A Y # 1...................


Yay, its begin. Dumped the res, cleaned stuff out, swapped some more hoses to clear in the process, and began flowering. (did you catch it by the red lights instead of blue in the pics?)

Thanks for listening as always....

Kitty
 

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Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Lookin' good kitty, just curious. Do you use reflecting panels adjacent to the plants?

Goes against the lighting paradigm of most growers, but keep in mind that in its natural state cannabis receives far less light during flowering than during veg.

Keep 'em green,
UB
 

researchkitty

Well-Known Member
Hi Uncle

I'm a little embarassed to say, but I dont know what your question means. The only reflective materials in the room are the mylar wall coverings (Which I did from ceiling to floor only to keep it pretty, could have gotten away with much less) and then the reflectors of the lights themselves........ What material do you refer to?

K
 

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
Hi Uncle

I'm a little embarassed to say, but I dont know what your question means. The only reflective materials in the room are the mylar wall coverings (Which I did from ceiling to floor only to keep it pretty, could have gotten away with much less) and then the reflectors of the lights themselves........ What material do you refer to?

K
My guess would be panels in front of the A and B marking on the light hoods to reflect the light going out that direction. Something you can move out as they grow.
I've been trying to guess what he'll answer. Keeps me entertained, and when I guess right I feel that I must be catching on to the UB-guru magic. Those plants are looking great by the way.
Daniels
 

rvrdennis

Active Member
this is a great journal and i like the topped/untopped experiment. i can't wait to see how things go for you. it looks very promising. sub'd
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Hi Uncle

I'm a little embarassed to say, but I dont know what your question means. The only reflective materials in the room are the mylar wall coverings (Which I did from ceiling to floor only to keep it pretty, could have gotten away with much less) and then the reflectors of the lights themselves........ What material do you refer to?

K
You need to keep highly reflective panels touching perimeter plants. It will increase light received by the plants 10 fold. Watts mean nothing unless the light is configured efficiently.

My indoor garden consists of large reflecting panels that can be picked up and placed against the plants according to the ever changing garden footprint, even the floor is painted with a brilliant white paint.

As an aside, cabinets with fixed reflective walls don't cut it nor do open sides where 50% of the light is wasted.

It's all about "buying light".

Good luck,
UB
 

rvrdennis

Active Member
You need to keep highly reflective panels touching perimeter plants. It will increase light received by the plants 10 fold. Watts mean nothing unless the light is configured efficiently.

My indoor garden consists of large reflecting panels that can be picked up and placed against the plants according to the ever changing garden footprint, even the floor is painted with a brilliant white paint.

As an aside, cabinets with fixed reflective walls don't cut it nor do open sides where 50% of the light is wasted.

It's all about "buying light".

Good luck,
UB
thats good info to know. and i shall put that into use asap. but u said white paint, is that good enough or do you need mylar?
 

clipse0

Member
You need to keep highly reflective panels touching perimeter plants. It will increase light received by the plants 10 fold. Watts mean nothing unless the light is configured efficiently.

My indoor garden consists of large reflecting panels that can be picked up and placed against the plants according to the ever changing garden footprint, even the floor is painted with a brilliant white paint.

As an aside, cabinets with fixed reflective walls don't cut it nor do open sides where 50% of the light is wasted.

It's all about "buying light".

Good luck,
UB

thats why i told her to move the lights and plants close to the wall the get some of the light relefected off the wall and on to the plants:bigjoint:
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
thats why i told her to move the lights and plants close to the wall the get some of the light relefected off the wall and on to the plants:bigjoint:
Yep.

The easiest and one of the most efficient ways is to use a corner as 2 stationary reflecting panels and then use a support to support 2 other panels, all painted with something like Behr's Ultra White paint. It's easier to paint than worry about hanging mylar IMO. For me, I used 1X4 upright supports with a wood base and large furniture cardboard panels stapled using a heavy staple gun. Panel is raised and stapled starting about 16" from the ground. You can sit a floor window fan just outside of the garden footprint and blow cool floor air into the garden, which also forces hot lamp air up and out reducing disease pressures. I was so anal as to cut 5' tall by 14" wide cardboard, paint it white and drop it into the corners. You want your plants adjacent to panels all the way around. When you take a HPS horizontal reflective hood, fire it up with no plants in the garden, hang it about 4' from the floor, the reflective properties looking in from above should be almost blinding.

UB
 

researchkitty

Well-Known Member
That makes sense quite a bit, thanks for the tips. I've got to jet to the Hydro store today to pick up some more buckets for the veg room and some other misc stuff. Going to grab a few clones off of the non-topped plants and get them rocking for next time. I'm sure the store will have some type of a paneling, if not, white picket fence covered in mylar or something will work! :)

Scarily enough, I had also considered purchasing a few more of those 4' wide T5 8-bulbers. Its the same as a 400w lamp, and thought it'd be fun to hang them on the walls illuminating the sides at full strength, but its probably overkill. Sounded like fun, though!

One part of this that is newer to me is the Hydroton, so I'm unsure about how to transplant/transfer plants from a veg room to the flower room without having to use a bucket for each of them already. Will research that in a bit and get the stores opinion too. I'm afraid that if I dont veg them in their normal buckets, that when they are ready for them they will be hard to transplant or damaging. Do most people veg in an E&F system in regular buckets too?

Off to the store back in a bit........... Thanks!!
 

hollywood420

Active Member
That makes sense quite a bit, thanks for the tips. I've got to jet to the Hydro store today to pick up some more buckets for the veg room and some other misc stuff. Going to grab a few clones off of the non-topped plants and get them rocking for next time. I'm sure the store will have some type of a paneling, if not, white picket fence covered in mylar or something will work! :)

Scarily enough, I had also considered purchasing a few more of those 4' wide T5 8-bulbers. Its the same as a 400w lamp, and thought it'd be fun to hang them on the walls illuminating the sides at full strength, but its probably overkill. Sounded like fun, though!

One part of this that is newer to me is the Hydroton, so I'm unsure about how to transplant/transfer plants from a veg room to the flower room without having to use a bucket for each of them already. Will research that in a bit and get the stores opinion too. I'm afraid that if I dont veg them in their normal buckets, that when they are ready for them they will be hard to transplant or damaging. Do most people veg in an E&F system in regular buckets too?

Off to the store back in a bit........... Thanks!!
home depot sells 4'x8'x1/4" sheets of paneling for tub surrounds that are white already. they are 10-$15 each and waterproof 1/4"
i would build 2 walls like a old school chalk board on wheels and all. props on the op right now, looks sweet. im along for the ride. ++rep:weed:
 

researchkitty

Well-Known Member
Great idea on the tub surroundings! They are surely a strong enough material for that. I'm now going to home depot, then the hydro store. ;)

Researched the veg and hydroton a bit, seems I can do it in smaller pots to start then transplant a few days before flower to the big room by filling bucket with hydroton and water then slowly letting plant sink into it. Neat.
 

jjfoo

Active Member
do you expect the roots to develop in 12/12? I used to transplant rock wool cubes into my hydroton buckets at the time I was flowering and when I harvested there where almost no roots! If I had to do it again with buckets and hydroton, I'd veg in the hydroton...
 
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