BloomBrothers
Active Member
Lookin good..................
Not disagreeing with you Uncle Ben, you are my grow guru, but please have a look at my journal at my Super Lemon Haze, they are vibrant and healthy and loving the fake sun... I was only pointing out she could get them closer, not as close as mine maybe, but yeah make a little better use of the lumens... Don't bleach your plants but create the ideal conditions for them... I'll go for 10 inches closer.???Topped and uptopped, plants look great.
I disagree with laceygirl regarding the light thingie. Some of the best gardens I've seen are where 1,000W lights are hanging a meter above the plants. You gauge plant health by color and vigor. Too much light will bleach out chlorophyll....then you can just hang it up regarding your crop.
Heat and light saturation points are totally different issues. You WILL screw up a plant if you think you can hang a 1,000W lamp 30 cms from their tops while maintaining a cool or cold temp at leaf level.
Good luck,
UB
Your success speaks for itself, just seen so many gardens screwed up by giving too much light and once the damage is done, it's done, there is no recovery. I'd rather err on the "light" side than push them over the edge. You can give a plant alot of light if you balance out factors that produce and maintain chlorophyll - plenty of N, Fe, Mg....good temps etc. Looks like you got it sussed Lacey.Not disagreeing with you Uncle Ben, you are my grow guru, but please have a look at my journal at my Super Lemon Haze, they are vibrant and healthy and loving the fake sun... I was only pointing out she could get them closer, not as close as mine maybe, but yeah make a little better use of the lumens... Don't bleach your plants but create the ideal conditions for them... I'll go for 10 inches closer.???
Laceygirl...
Thanks Lacey! The plants are about 2 feet from the lights right now -- the reason I kept them far away is because they've been vegging from sprouts to where they are now under 1000watt lamps. I really wanted to keep them a bit farther away than normal because of their size. The new veg room is almost done, which gives me a much easier setup for sure. I'm going to be rewiring the room over this weekend for the new lights so it'll all be changed up soon!! Thanks for subbing too!Hi kitty been reading your posts, I'd love to have a basement, it would be the best... For now I have to use my double garage...lol...
I only have one tiny piece of advice as you seem to have everything else well taken care of...
Get those lights closer to your plants and get a thermometer in the top of the pots with the plants so you can monitor the temps to see how close you can get your lights... It seems to me you are wasting a lot of lumens just in distance... My 1000watt are only 22 inches away from my plants and the temp is a perfect 28 degrees celcius, sorry about the temps, I'm Australian...lol..
You will see greater growth and your plants will love you for it...
Laceygirl...
White rice alert!! I forgot to mention too, that once the plants flip to flower, that the lights will be closer. The vortex fan is only on about 1/2 speed right now and temperatures are perfect, so it gives me a lot more light room to grow.Topped and uptopped, plants look great.
I disagree with laceygirl regarding the light thingie. Some of the best gardens I've seen are where 1,000W lights are hanging a meter above the plants. You gauge plant health by color and vigor. Too much light will bleach out chlorophyll....then you can just hang it up regarding your crop.
Heat and light saturation points are totally different issues. You WILL screw up a plant if you think you can hang a 1,000W lamp 30 cms from their tops while maintaining a cool or cold temp at leaf level.
Good luck,
UB
My guess would be panels in front of the A and B marking on the light hoods to reflect the light going out that direction. Something you can move out as they grow.Hi Uncle
I'm a little embarassed to say, but I dont know what your question means. The only reflective materials in the room are the mylar wall coverings (Which I did from ceiling to floor only to keep it pretty, could have gotten away with much less) and then the reflectors of the lights themselves........ What material do you refer to?
K
You need to keep highly reflective panels touching perimeter plants. It will increase light received by the plants 10 fold. Watts mean nothing unless the light is configured efficiently.Hi Uncle
I'm a little embarassed to say, but I dont know what your question means. The only reflective materials in the room are the mylar wall coverings (Which I did from ceiling to floor only to keep it pretty, could have gotten away with much less) and then the reflectors of the lights themselves........ What material do you refer to?
K
thats good info to know. and i shall put that into use asap. but u said white paint, is that good enough or do you need mylar?You need to keep highly reflective panels touching perimeter plants. It will increase light received by the plants 10 fold. Watts mean nothing unless the light is configured efficiently.
My indoor garden consists of large reflecting panels that can be picked up and placed against the plants according to the ever changing garden footprint, even the floor is painted with a brilliant white paint.
As an aside, cabinets with fixed reflective walls don't cut it nor do open sides where 50% of the light is wasted.
It's all about "buying light".
Good luck,
UB
You need to keep highly reflective panels touching perimeter plants. It will increase light received by the plants 10 fold. Watts mean nothing unless the light is configured efficiently.
My indoor garden consists of large reflecting panels that can be picked up and placed against the plants according to the ever changing garden footprint, even the floor is painted with a brilliant white paint.
As an aside, cabinets with fixed reflective walls don't cut it nor do open sides where 50% of the light is wasted.
It's all about "buying light".
Good luck,
UB
Yep.thats why i told her to move the lights and plants close to the wall the get some of the light relefected off the wall and on to the plants
home depot sells 4'x8'x1/4" sheets of paneling for tub surrounds that are white already. they are 10-$15 each and waterproof 1/4"That makes sense quite a bit, thanks for the tips. I've got to jet to the Hydro store today to pick up some more buckets for the veg room and some other misc stuff. Going to grab a few clones off of the non-topped plants and get them rocking for next time. I'm sure the store will have some type of a paneling, if not, white picket fence covered in mylar or something will work!
Scarily enough, I had also considered purchasing a few more of those 4' wide T5 8-bulbers. Its the same as a 400w lamp, and thought it'd be fun to hang them on the walls illuminating the sides at full strength, but its probably overkill. Sounded like fun, though!
One part of this that is newer to me is the Hydroton, so I'm unsure about how to transplant/transfer plants from a veg room to the flower room without having to use a bucket for each of them already. Will research that in a bit and get the stores opinion too. I'm afraid that if I dont veg them in their normal buckets, that when they are ready for them they will be hard to transplant or damaging. Do most people veg in an E&F system in regular buckets too?
Off to the store back in a bit........... Thanks!!