For all new growers with questions... Tons of information and answers..

[jdizzle22]

Oh man I kind of spaced about penetration. I had just read several times that for a tent the size of mine *GL80 that 400w was good, and some people said 6 plants is certainly fine. I only have 3 right now and they are definitely not all the same strain (they are just growing too different I think). Supposed to be pretty good bag seed stock. I only have 3 in there right now, what would you guys recommend I let them veg to before I induce flowering? I forgot about penetration and was just going to let them go to almost half the height they could possibly grow to (forgetting about how they could tripple).

Right now the safe distance of the 400w hps from the top of the tallest plant keeps it about halfway up the whole tent. How much taller should I let them grow before I am risking how tall they might ever get? I have probably a little over 2 more feet that I can raise the reflector up to without it getting in the way of the air filter.

Here is a picture from yesterday or something

PS: I just thought to pH test my plants with that cheap like 8 dollar pH stick. According to that 2 of my plants are only about 5.5, and one is 6.5 In the picture the 2 with 5.5 are the tallest and the smallest. I did think I noticed the 2nd to last time i watered I had forgotten to pH test and the day after that the 2nd tallest leveled out all its leaves and has been doing great. So I think there could be a pH problem with the other 2. Apparently one of them is stable and 6.5 and the others are only 5.5 How can I safely raise that up a point? Should I give them water with a pH of 7.5?****** can't believe I have been forgetting to write down my specific pH water recordings and actual adjustment amounts! But I'm not sure which is which, but when I pH test its usually either around 4.0 or lower, or its about 8 (either pink or dark green haha). I'm not sure which one of those is for water with superthrive, or water with superthrive and growbig.

PSS: Ok I just read that last post about how tall they grow and no point in a 4ft 400w plant. So I guess what I should end up doing is probably a SOG or take a few plants and lst them around so I can get more plant with less height. I don't want to risk screwing up big my first round so I will let these grow normal. Plus this way I can still get some material to my patient before I start risking lst and scrog and what not

 

[choempi]

I am starting a closet flood and ebb grow with a seat of the pants approach...

Bagseed and CFLs till upgrades numerous...

I have read and re-read this thread many times and booked multiples...

This thread is the best I have read and have scoured the web...


I smell a book?

Thanks for being willing to share, that is hard to do when you don't have to...

subscribed big time Sam, keep it live!

 

[choempi]

SimpsonSam I'm gonna call you Sam...

The Situation: 3 x 2 x8 closet, final objective a monthly harvest.

Background: I have not grown since 1990, inside with a 1000 MH and trays with bubblers, media lava rocks in styrofoam, end result good weed to smoke but small in proprtion to effort...

Bought a light from a ad in High Times, thought everything was good and never a thought as to delivery of nutes and such.

Miracle Gro...

Woke up, got outa bed...

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiFYOn1AFms[/youtube]

 

[showhard2handle]

Hey thanks for the input my man. However I should have qualified my post with the fact that they are autos. So they no likey the switch to 12/12. Keepin 'em @ 20/4 for their entire lives. Good info. re: reg. photo beans tho.

Thanks a bunch for ur 2 cents

 

[simpsonsampson420]

Do you have any good fans you can recommend for the reflector/light? My air filter thingy is supposedly 48 dBA and I know that kind of thing is hard to calculate, but its like a loud gaming computer and its only 130cfm. Are there any high powered fans I could use for the venting that wouldn't be much louder? Any difference between squirrel cage fans, inline fans, can fans, etc. in your experience? I don't know much about any of these things yet.

I just read someone say that inline fans are only boosters so they aren't as powerful, but are far more quiet.*
This is a good I think, someone was raving about it on another site, supposed to be super quiet and not much less than 300cfm http://www2.panasonic.com/consumer-electronics/shop/Building-Products/Ventilation-Systems/Inline-Fans/model.FV-20NLF1.S_11002_7000000000000005702#tabsection

if you want a good fan that will last a long time and is quiet i would highly recommend these.. http://www.wormsway.com/results.aspx?t=prod&search=sunleaves windtunnel&cat=all&AC=1 the 6 inch is the one i wanted to show.. they arent bad priced and move a shit load of air.. you can also add a duct muffler http://www.horticulturesource.com/c-a-p-custom-automated-products-duct-muffler-6--p5110/ to help quiet it further...

stay away from inline or booster fans.. they wont last the long haul, and move a lot less air.... they are meant to help exhaust fans move air over long distances...

also.. you should try to have your ducting as straight as possible.. all the twists and bends will drastically cut fan efficiency...

THanks for the kind words my man, your seal of approval is definitely some kick ass encouragement. Here are some pics of the girls from today, (I realize it's bascially 4 shots of the same picture, but the flash was fukin up & just wanted to give you the best seat possible for a prognosis).

I've been changin the res. out every Saturday, so I went ahead & loaded her back up with freshie water & same VEG nutes they been on. I see some flowering sites, but seems like they haven't made the switch yet. Specially from what I read about 'em, says they go into almost a "violent" flowering stage. I have to assume even a newb like me would be able to qualify that change. However, please take a look & lemme know what ya think.

The drippers were gettin a little cloggy lookin w/ salt deposit I suppose. So I yanked them out & changed them out with new ones (hopefully for soon upcoming flower stage). So I shoud be good, just need to know when to start the "ween" to flower nutes.

I'm also soakin my photo beans tonight & gonna get them in the tray tomorow night. Last time I did the jury rigged thing at the tops of the plugs with rippin a small piece of material off of a separate rooter to cover the hole @ top. Can't remember if you said that was good or not. My conventional wisdom is to cover it with the extra material (as that is how I have planted every other type of seed since I was a kid). But would they be alright just gettin dropped into the holes & leave them uncovered (direct flo light on the butkus of the bean). I know it sounds trivial, just wanna make sure I nail these photos, and get some good moms rockin. So I guess this is one of those: What would Sampson do?? type thingies.

I also went ahead & changed up from the halide to the HPS (OG bulb that came with light, it didn't break & is kickin ass so far, so hey). I think your suggestion to use halide for first few weeks was spot on (hell its all been spot on), created some massive branching on virtually every on of those chicks. Granted, I may be completely off base in that analysis. I just remember readin threads bout autos, and everyone stressed the importance of branching as much as possible, will OBV. produce best yield possible. I'm thrilled with evthing so far. That recipe for success kicks ass, just bought another one today, so gonna stay with them.

From the looks of things, how much longer do you think these girls will occupy the system (I wont holda ya to it, just a guess doc). Gonna go ahead & start these photos. Got the waterfarm ready 2 roll. Just need to get a dozen from bean & be ready to replace into v-drip & wanna coordinate properly.

You're the man, thanks for evthing, especially my incessant quentioning.

Stay up my man!

hey bro... looks like things are coming along nice..

i would go ahead and start making the switch over to flowering nutes... by the time you eliminate the veg nutes they will be ready to go...

drippers can get clogged easily.. its a good idea to clean them somewhat frequently...

you dont need to cover the beans up when you put them in the rooting cube.. the hole should close over them.. if they dont close a little bit of scratching to get the hole covered is fine.. no need to work too hard.. lol

glad to hear they branched well.. thats the key to good yields... many nice thick branches... also glad the tachnaflora is working out well.. it is a good idea to stick with it a few runs until you get broke in.. but i do urge you to try different nutes to see if there is a better fit for you... or even experiment a little with your own nute recipes...

i would estimate (and its a pretty rough one..) about 5 weeks until chop... how long has it been from seed now??

ok i was just curious i have some good noeds going but how will i now what pre flower looks like iidk im a newb lol

preflowers on females will appear in the form of pistils.. little white hairs... not to be confused with the little green V that is at every node.. these are actual white pistils... males will start to show ball sacs...

Oh man I kind of spaced about penetration. I had just read several times that for a tent the size of mine *GL80 that 400w was good, and some people said 6 plants is certainly fine. I only have 3 right now and they are definitely not all the same strain (they are just growing too different I think). Supposed to be pretty good bag seed stock. I only have 3 in there right now, what would you guys recommend I let them veg to before I induce flowering? I forgot about penetration and was just going to let them go to almost half the height they could possibly grow to (forgetting about how they could tripple).

Right now the safe distance of the 400w hps from the top of the tallest plant keeps it about halfway up the whole tent. How much taller should I let them grow before I am risking how tall they might ever get? I have probably a little over 2 more feet that I can raise the reflector up to without it getting in the way of the air filter.

Here is a picture from yesterday or something

PS: I just thought to pH test my plants with that cheap like 8 dollar pH stick. According to that 2 of my plants are only about 5.5, and one is 6.5 In the picture the 2 with 5.5 are the tallest and the smallest. I did think I noticed the 2nd to last time i watered I had forgotten to pH test and the day after that the 2nd tallest leveled out all its leaves and has been doing great. So I think there could be a pH problem with the other 2. Apparently one of them is stable and 6.5 and the others are only 5.5 How can I safely raise that up a point? Should I give them water with a pH of 7.5?****** can't believe I have been forgetting to write down my specific pH water recordings and actual adjustment amounts! But I'm not sure which is which, but when I pH test its usually either around 4.0 or lower, or its about 8 (either pink or dark green haha). I'm not sure which one of those is for water with superthrive, or water with superthrive and growbig.

PSS: Ok I just read that last post about how tall they grow and no point in a 4ft 400w plant. So I guess what I should end up doing is probably a SOG or take a few plants and lst them around so I can get more plant with less height. I don't want to risk screwing up big my first round so I will let these grow normal. Plus this way I can still get some material to my patient before I start risking lst and scrog and what not

i would say 12 to 15 inches worth of veg is good before flowering... do you know if they are sativa or indica influenced?? i would say if they have more sativa to flower no later than 12" of height... from the looks of the picture i'd say within a week or so you may want to flower..

when it comes to checking soil ph and nute solution ph its best to use a pen that has a read out.. the strips can be very inaccurate and hard to read.. plus if your nutes change the water color it will interfer with the read you get from the strips.. with that said i dont really feel comfortable telling you to fuck with your ph in the soil at all until you know 100% for sure what it is... i would feel bad if i made a complication worse through suggestions.. but to answer your question earth juice ph up and earth juice ph down will raise/lower soil level phs pretty easily.. i just highly highly recommend raising/lower slowly.. for 2 reasons.. 1 if you over correct then you have to recorrect and that just is a pain in the ass going back and forth.. also to much change in ph too quickly can cause osmotic shock in the roots.. which will affect how the plant takes in water and nutes..

sog/scrog or a good LST would be ideal for a tent that size.. perfect even.. just a matter of holding a mother for clones... but i think you are wise to let this go as is for now and fix things later.. too much over doing can lead to failure...

I am starting a closet flood and ebb grow with a seat of the pants approach...

Bagseed and CFLs till upgrades numerous...

I have read and re-read this thread many times and booked multiples...

This thread is the best I have read and have scoured the web...


I smell a book?

Thanks for being willing to share, that is hard to do when you don't have to...

subscribed big time Sam, keep it live!

SimpsonSam I'm gonna call you Sam...

The Situation: 3 x 2 x8 closet, final objective a monthly harvest.

Background: I have not grown since 1990, inside with a 1000 MH and trays with bubblers, media lava rocks in styrofoam, end result good weed to smoke but small in proprtion to effort...

Bought a light from a ad in High Times, thought everything was good and never a thought as to delivery of nutes and such.

Miracle Gro...

Woke up, got outa bed...

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiFYOn1AFms[/youtube]

thanks for the kind words.. and im very happy to help.. i enjoy it...

glad to hear you are getting back into growing as well... im sure its hard to leave once you start...

for a seat of your pants run try to keep your expectations within reason.. dont feel bad when your harvest is a 10th of what i will be when you get things up and running right..

also, for flowering stick with HPS... stay away from MH unless for veg... MH doesnt put off the lumens or have the pentration power that hps's do, that is needed for flowering..

the youtube video didnt copy/play at all.. can you re post it??

as i tell everyone, any thing i can help you with feel free to ask!

wen should i intro flower??

you can start to flower anytime you want.. you can go 12/12 from seed if its what you want to do.. but your plant wont be 100% of what it can be without a good veg time.. typically 4 to 6 weeks...

but keep in mind of lighting (how big and how much penetration your light offers), grow area size, and final plant size... plants will double to triple in size during flowering... make sure you can accomodate both height and width of them..

Hey thanks for the input my man. However I should have qualified my post with the fact that they are autos. So they no likey the switch to 12/12. Keepin 'em @ 20/4 for their entire lives. Good info. re: reg. photo beans tho.

Thanks a bunch for ur 2 cents

i still think i got the question answered.. if i didnt just ask again.. lol

P.S. Sorry for dropping the F-bomb in my last post. Don't want to disrespect the thread!

dont sweat it.. fuck is my favorite word.. i use it fondly... lol

 

[showhard2handle]

hey bro... looks like things are coming along nice..

i would go ahead and start making the switch over to flowering nutes... by the time you eliminate the veg nutes they will be ready to go...

drippers can get clogged easily.. its a good idea to clean them somewhat frequently...

you dont need to cover the beans up when you put them in the rooting cube.. the hole should close over them.. if they dont close a little bit of scratching to get the hole covered is fine.. no need to work too hard.. lol

glad to hear they branched well.. thats the key to good yields... many nice thick branches... also glad the tachnaflora is working out well.. it is a good idea to stick with it a few runs until you get broke in.. but i do urge you to try different nutes to see if there is a better fit for you... or even experiment a little with your own nute recipes...

i would estimate (and its a pretty rough one..) about 5 weeks until chop... how long has it been from seed now??

Hey bro, thanks for the wisdom. Auto beans were popped on 1-15, went into the v-drip system the following weekend (1-23). Had that little exhaust set back (case & point to the dude you mentioned the fan for in the post, dude inline fans are worthless! THe original Can Fan is the nuts. & yeah, watch the angles.

Anyway Sampson, preesh the estimate on chop time. Any closer estimate u could make w/ the start date i just provided would be choice. Tryin to make things synched up & ready to pop as best as possible.

I'm gonna go ahead & add another gallon of water, and start with say 1/4 strength flower nutes.

Lemme know on that nute proportion. GOnna wait to to that til I hear back from you.

Finaly, you know I always got 1 last thing (or 10). Anyway, like i said I been using the HPS bulb that came with the light I bought (along with the halide bulb). Now it says the word "GROW" on it. Here's why I ask...

I noticed that when I was playin it safe & usin the cheap $20 HPS bulb from HD, the light was way more amber / straight red. WHich is also what I have read is the most citical for flowering. THis bulb (the one that came with the light). Looks nicer that the HD one, however, the light it puts off is very similar to the halide bulb. Very white type light, with maybe a hint of yellow.

It's just a huge difference in the contrast of hues between the HD cheap bulb & the one that came with it that says "GROW". During my research I have read tons of varying opinions obv., but seems that folks say that the extra blue spectrum is added in, so that you could use the same HPS bulb through both veg & bloom.

To finally bottle the question here. Would you stick with the "GROW" HPS (white light) that came in with the light, or switch up to the HD cheapie (red light) since I am lookin for pure bloom spectrum.

Trivial & stupid question I'm sure.

Thanks for the patience in essentially hokkin up my education. Man, good thing you don't hit a brotha up per hour. ha.

For real bud, thanks for all your time, this virtual tech. support is absolutely crucial.

A gentleman & scholar you are!

 

[jdizzle22]

Thanks man, I had a feeling that 1-2 weeks was probably what I would go for. I think I will make the switch on the 1st of march, unless they had already started alternating nodes.

I just noticed today, upon closer inspection, that Berri is going nuts all over her first 5 inches. It is hard to capture with my digital camera, but basically she already has new branches growing new leaves off of branches with new leaves coming off the main stalk.

So I can see this (in the places its not so thick with foliage I can't see in deeper). She has these branches growing off the main stalk, that have several new leaves growing off of those branches! Oh god its hard to describe. She has like new baby stalks growing off of branches growing off of branches growing off the main stalk? Its like her genes are telling her to grow out of and off of every possible frikkin angle as early as possible. Main Stem-new branch-4 new sets of leaves growing off that-teeniest tiniest baby leaves that look like they could by those girly hair. Ok I am just going mad trying to explain this! Is she a super freak?

Also: I have no idea what strains or sativa/indica background any of them come from.
PS: Would you recommend I use books and such to raise the smaller plants up so that all the plants tops are evenly close to the light? *i just did but I don't know if that is really considering all possible factors
PSS: I won't have any money to spend until almost the end of the month, so that last pic is basically my set up. I wake up at 6am, plug in the light, turn on old computer (powers a computer fan), and go back to bed. Sometime between 9 and 10 I get up, open the tent doors, turn on the oscillating fan, rotate each plant pot a 90 degree turn, and continue the day. Right now I have it set up so the computer fan blows air into 3/4 feet of venting to the reflector, then have a long run of venting out the other side and up straight out the top of the tent. I have the filter set up and connected to some venting so that it blows in a straight line out the back, then a 90 degree turn straight up. That really small fan by the old computer I am just using to help keep the computer fan in place (i did a test with a piece of string and the computer fan blows much harder than that big fan). I am pondering now if I should have the air filter vent into the hood (maybe it would keep it cooler), but I don't think I will bother. It appears now that there is enough cooling so the air coming out the top (from the reflector) isn't even that warm (I switched the venting today so the in air went through less venting than the out air). Eventually I think I will order some kind of venting fan for the vent. Also I hope to get some clip on fans in the coming weeks so that I can feel better about keeping the tent closed during the day (right now I feel the benefits of them blowing in the wind outweighs the light lost/etc for having the doors open most of the day.

PS: My room is messy because I haven't forced myself to clean up and reorganize after setting up the tent, I promise to try harder to keep the cat out (they can carry dust mites from outside or something right?). I have tape on the chair mat because I'm too cheap to get a new one that won't last more than a couple years (so I'm extending its life with tape!). The jugs are for the tap water to get shaken and stirred and let sit out in, and the darker spot on the wall is from 11 years of the bed being against the other wall, along with the pillows and my hands/arms rubbing against it.

 

[simpsonsampson420]

Hey bro, thanks for the wisdom. Auto beans were popped on 1-15, went into the v-drip system the following weekend (1-23). Had that little exhaust set back (case & point to the dude you mentioned the fan for in the post, dude inline fans are worthless! THe original Can Fan is the nuts. & yeah, watch the angles.

Anyway Sampson, preesh the estimate on chop time. Any closer estimate u could make w/ the start date i just provided would be choice. Tryin to make things synched up & ready to pop as best as possible.

I'm gonna go ahead & add another gallon of water, and start with say 1/4 strength flower nutes.


Finaly, you know I always got 1 last thing (or 10). Anyway, like i said I been using the HPS bulb that came with the light I bought (along with the halide bulb). Now it says the word "GROW" on it. Here's why I ask...

I noticed that when I was playin it safe & usin the cheap $20 HPS bulb from HD, the light was way more amber / straight red. WHich is also what I have read is the most citical for flowering. THis bulb (the one that came with the light). Looks nicer that the HD one, however, the light it puts off is very similar to the halide bulb. Very white type light, with maybe a hint of yellow.

It's just a huge difference in the contrast of hues between the HD cheap bulb & the one that came with it that says "GROW". During my research I have read tons of varying opinions obv., but seems that folks say that the extra blue spectrum is added in, so that you could use the same HPS bulb through both veg & bloom.

To finally bottle the question here. Would you stick with the "GROW" HPS (white light) that came in with the light, or switch up to the HD cheapie (red light) since I am lookin for pure bloom spectrum.

i would still say you have somewhere are 4 to 5 weeks to go.. you are about 4 weeks in.. most finish in 8 to 9.. so that leaves you the 4 or 5 to go...

i would go ahead and start the transition in nutes... go 1/3 strength each gro/veg, bloom/flower, and micro/boost.. we'll see what they look like in a week and decide what to hit them with then...

alright.. so now to tackle the whole grow bulb thing...

your right about it having an enhanced blue spectrum.. some do... a lot of companies actually have introduced more blues in.. mainly as an option to use throughout the entire growth cycle...

now we know during flowering the plants like red/orange spectrum the most... but they can still utilize some blue spectrums... so using the enhanced spectrum bulb throughout flower is not completely worthless...

now as far as one being better than the other during flowering i cant say for sure.. if it is truely as white as you say then i would stick with the plain hps bulb... but if it is only less orange than the hps due to the spectrum (this is your call on this since i cant see and compare) then i would have no reason to think it would be less affective than the regular hps..

if i were you here is what i would do.. i would stick with the enhanced bulb this grow.. im curious about it for 1.. but you can also use it as a basis comparison (loosely) against a plain hps bulb in a future grow... if for any reason i think that switching to the plain hps is neccessary i will let you know... but its your call..

hope that helps some..

Thanks man, I had a feeling that 1-2 weeks was probably what I would go for. I think I will make the switch on the 1st of march, unless they had already started alternating nodes.

I just noticed today, upon closer inspection, that Berri is going nuts all over her first 5 inches. It is hard to capture with my digital camera, but basically she already has new branches growing new leaves off of branches with new leaves coming off the main stalk.

So I can see this (in the places its not so thick with foliage I can't see in deeper). She has these branches growing off the main stalk, that have several new leaves growing off of those branches! Oh god its hard to describe. She has like new baby stalks growing off of branches growing off of branches growing off the main stalk? Its like her genes are telling her to grow out of and off of every possible frikkin angle as early as possible. Main Stem-new branch-4 new sets of leaves growing off that-teeniest tiniest baby leaves that look like they could by those girly hair. Ok I am just going mad trying to explain this! Is she a super freak?

Also: I have no idea what strains or sativa/indica background any of them come from.
PS: Would you recommend I use books and such to raise the smaller plants up so that all the plants tops are evenly close to the light? *i just did but I don't know if that is really considering all possible factors

wow... thats all i can say.. that plant is crazy..... it is some sort of genetic mutation for sure.. ive seen it happen to reverted plants or clones taken late into flowering... never and actual vegging plant... i am interested to see how it turns out.. i imagine it will make a large bud ball... lol

as far as raising plants, the closer to the light you can get them the better.. if you can raise them up somehow do so!

 

[jdizzle22]

Forgot to mention: During the plants night time I have the air filter plugged into a timer thing so it comes on for a half hour every hour and a half.

Yeah man I guess I got a bag of mutant seeds! I wet towel 4 seeds, all 4 pop! One never sprouts, one was a fist of leaves the first 5 weeks of its life, and now another is growing a jungle a couple inches off of the ground!

Now I will try to justify this post with a real question... Umm... Hmm... Ok how about this? So the reflector glass is rectangular with the bulb hung horizontally on one end. How should I lay out my plants? Right now I have them so that 2 pots are lined up with the edge of the reflector on the side with the bulb, and so that the bulb is lined up with the line that the 2 pots touch each other. Then I have the 3rd pot, I'll just draw a picture! So my question is: Is there a better way I could arrange these? * I'm not sure if the bulb throws way more light out ahead of it vs behind it... etc *pic isn't exactly scale, ex: bulb definitely dosen't take up that much space of the hood

PS: So its not going quite so crazy, but on the tallest plant it does have a good amount of new leaves coming in around the base under the first couple major pairs. Mostly the same thing just not as many, has some branches growing off the main stem that have new leaves/branches growing off those. Also the fist shaped one is probably having the similar thing, just harder to tell because its still pretty curled up and crazy fist shaped. Man I really got a bag of mutants?

 

[NoCeilings]

i have a couple simple questions that im sure would help many newbs, like me, out. lets say i have several young plants outdoors and they are vegging. what i want is to know which plants are male, so i can stop wasting expensive FF soil and nutes on them. i throw a sheet over them to induce flowering (12/12). i notice the males, and i exterminate the males. i have all females now, i know that.. but:

1) will this (veg>flower>back to veg) have any negative effects on my plants?
2) does the time at which i induce flowering matter (younger or older?)

no, im NOT going to buy fem seeds lol. thanks

 

[jdizzle22]

i have a couple simple questions that im sure would help many newbs, like me, out. lets say i have several young plants outdoors and they are vegging. what i want is to know which plants are male, so i can stop wasting expensive FF soil and nutes on them. i throw a sheet over them to induce flowering (12/12). i notice the males, and i exterminate the males. i have all females now, i know that.. but:

1) will this (veg>flower>back to veg) have any negative effects on my plants?
2) does the time at which i induce flowering matter (younger or older?)

no, im NOT going to buy fem seeds lol. thanks

going back to veg from flowering is a bad idea, it has bad side effects. Yes you can often go back to veg from flower, but its not really ever worth it. However, wait until someone who knows better before you change whatever you are doing right now. If you are vegging again right now, I am not sure if it is worth it to switch back to flowering, or if that would just make things even worse. Just stay at whatever you are at now until he responds. But update yourself: Explain - are you actually back to vegging right now?

 

[NoCeilings]

going back to veg from flowering is a bad idea, it has bad side effects. Yes you can often go back to veg from flower, but its not really ever worth it. However, wait until someone who knows better before you change whatever you are doing right now. If you are vegging again right now, I am not sure if it is worth it to switch back to flowering, or if that would just make things even worse. Just stay at whatever you are at now until he responds. But update yourself: Explain - are you actually back to vegging right now?

no i havent even planted yet, but in a couple months i will be. just learning. idk if you got me though.. im asking if i can flower for the sole purpose of determining sex and getting rid of males. then taking my sheet off, going back to veg and continuing with my usual grow. if this will like 1/2 my yield or give me a hermie, then i wont try it. no harm done because i havent started, only researching now. thanks jdizzle

 

[boseke420]

how much would a cheap cfl lighting cost me and how many k should they be?? im just wondering whats the best cheapest possible settup my plants can efficently grow on isnt this every 's dream lol

 

[simpsonsampson420]

Forgot to mention: During the plants night time I have the air filter plugged into a timer thing so it comes on for a half hour every hour and a half.

Yeah man I guess I got a bag of mutant seeds! I wet towel 4 seeds, all 4 pop! One never sprouts, one was a fist of leaves the first 5 weeks of its life, and now another is growing a jungle a couple inches off of the ground!

Now I will try to justify this post with a real question... Umm... Hmm... Ok how about this? So the reflector glass is rectangular with the bulb hung horizontally on one end. How should I lay out my plants? Right now I have them so that 2 pots are lined up with the edge of the reflector on the side with the bulb, and so that the bulb is lined up with the line that the 2 pots touch each other. Then I have the 3rd pot, I'll just draw a picture! So my question is: Is there a better way I could arrange these? * I'm not sure if the bulb throws way more light out ahead of it vs behind it... etc *pic isn't exactly scale, ex: bulb definitely dosen't take up that much space of the hood

PS: So its not going quite so crazy, but on the tallest plant it does have a good amount of new leaves coming in around the base under the first couple major pairs. Mostly the same thing just not as many, has some branches growing off the main stem that have new leaves/branches growing off those. Also the fist shaped one is probably having the similar thing, just harder to tell because its still pretty curled up and crazy fist shaped. Man I really got a bag of mutants?

there is not right or wrong way to set up plants under the light.. you want to optimize the amount of light they are getting, but in a space your size it shouldnt be a problem anywhere they are at... what you can do (if you so choose) is to rotate the pots every few days so the side away from the light is now facing the light... it will help expose the entire plant a little more... but it isnt a huge deal...

getting mutants in bag seed isnt uncommon.. even if the seeds come from good bud (which means they will produce the same bud, yes) they can still have all sorts of genetic mutations and such... i dont see anything wrong with them, except they look crazy..

i have a couple simple questions that im sure would help many newbs, like me, out. lets say i have several young plants outdoors and they are vegging. what i want is to know which plants are male, so i can stop wasting expensive FF soil and nutes on them. i throw a sheet over them to induce flowering (12/12). i notice the males, and i exterminate the males. i have all females now, i know that.. but:

1) will this (veg>flower>back to veg) have any negative effects on my plants?
2) does the time at which i induce flowering matter (younger or older?)

no, im NOT going to buy fem seeds lol. thanks

1) going from veg to flower back to veg can have devistating effects on your plant.. the main thing is the stress that it will cause.. which is enormous.. there is a VERY high chance of your females turning hermie from it.. light cycle stresses carry the highest chance of causing hermies over any stress that can be induced (except chemical).. so i would suggest "wasting" the nutes until you can properly identify the males and females.. which brings me (and ties into) the second question...

2) now if you are growing outdoors you cant really control when flowering starts... unless you want to manually cover and uncover the plants like you mentioned above.. but thats a pain in the ass and will stand out like a sore thumb...

most mj plants, after a 4 to 6 week veg time, will reach maturity and show their sex before flowering ever starts... there is NO chance of pollination at this point.. they are just preflowers... basically a way to tell you if they are male or female... females will show 2 white pistils that will pop out of the green V-fingers at each main node set on the main stalk... if allowed to veg long enough the pistils will show all over... i had a female that looked like it was flowering in veg because of the preflowers she was showing.. males will show their sacs.. but wont have pollen in them... so you dont have to worry about getting you females pregnant..

now my main question to you is why are you against fem'd seeds?? there is a lot of mis information about them... i would very much like to know if you have been fed that info... imho it is a waste of money (unless you plan on breeding) to get mixed seeds... fem'd seeds from a quality breeder and seed bank will have a 100% female growth rate... maybe 1 out of every 100 now MIGHT, and i stress might, be a hermie.. but that is getting less and less common... assuming again you are choosing a quality breeder and not snookie and ray rays discount beans.. lol

if you wait until the plant has reached its maturity (seeing preflowers or alternating nodes appear) then when you flower you can get 10)% of the flowering capabilities to show in the plant... if they flower younger, although you will still get a harvest, it will not be as potent or as much as if the plant reached maturity... the longer the veg the larger the harvest...

how much would a cheap cfl lighting cost me and how many k should they be?? im just wondering whats the best cheapest possible settup my plants can efficently grow on isnt this every 's dream lol

ok.... here is the thing with cfls that makes this answer hard to answer....

it really comes down to the results you are looking for....

since cfls dont penetrate well at all it takes a lot of them to properly flower a plant... maybe 3 cfls per plant to get a decent harvest... but even in the end, the harvest you get from cfls (on a watt per watt basis) is not going to compare to and HID or high output floro set up...

with that said, i dont want to discourage as you can get a harvest... i just dont want you to over expect and then get bummed...

if i had to make a setup using cfls.... i would at least 3x 23w cfls per plant... with a plant height not to exceed 18" total... 12" would be better...

 

[simpsonsampson420]

but again, using cfls (unless you have a really really small grow) is basically a waste of time and money... what you get in the end isnt worth the work it takes to get there.. you would honestly be better off going HID or some sort of high output floro system...

 

[NoCeilings]

good thorough answer man +rep for that. main reason i dont want to buy fem seeds is because i need one or two males to make seeds for next year. plus i dont want to buy 5 fems and get a couple hermies. but i guess youre right when you say thats unlikely if bought from a reputable bank. so much for Joe Blow's Discount Seeds

 

[zues]

Im a newbie i have a quick question for u excellent growers ...... Is a 42 watt daylight cfl also a fullspectrum cfl...... If so is it better to have full spectrum or 2700 spectrum since 2700 is the flowerin spec. ...... Im thinkin a 42 watt 2700 bulb will give u dense nugs an a 42 full spectrum might slack a lil ........... Can some one please help me plleeeaasssssee

 

[simpsonsampson420]

good thorough answer man +rep for that. main reason i dont want to buy fem seeds is because i need one or two males to make seeds for next year. plus i dont want to buy 5 fems and get a couple hermies. but i guess youre right when you say thats unlikely if bought from a reputable bank. so much for Joe Blow's Discount Seeds

if you need males i can understand... good luck!

Can somebody help me wit my question

stick with 2700k if you are flowering.. full spectrum if not..

 

[showhard2handle]

Sampson, or anyone out there ever heard of Dinafem? I received a Dinafem widow bean (freebie w/ my order), and from the name I am assuming it's a fem. However, I would LOVE to be certain. Spent alot o' $$ makin sure that there is a zero percentage of Y chromosones.

Any feedback would be appreciated!

Also Sampson, I gotta another freebie that is UFO's LA Woman, Sounds super sexy from the reviews I've read, but she's not a fem.

With my newbness factor, I am leaning toward just not trying for a few runs, just to ensure that I don't jack anything up & pollenate my little ladies. From the post you answered for that other cat, sounds like it is easy to ascertain sex, with ample time before having to worry about pollenation. What would you do?

Keep in mind, it either will essentially go from seedling to SOG, or be a mom. But I guess that won't work. Def. not gonna roll the dice & have 1 of my moms potentially be a dude. THat would eff it all up.

ALright, think I may have just answered my own question bout LA Woman. Sorry to waste space.

But if anyway can hook up some feedback on the Dinafem, that'd be lovely. Thanks a ton!

 

[boseke420]

there is not right or wrong way to set up plants under the light.. you want to optimize the amount of light they are getting, but in a space your size it shouldnt be a problem anywhere they are at... what you can do (if you so choose) is to rotate the pots every few days so the side away from the light is now facing the light... it will help expose the entire plant a little more... but it isnt a huge deal...

getting mutants in bag seed isnt uncommon.. even if the seeds come from good bud (which means they will produce the same bud, yes) they can still have all sorts of genetic mutations and such... i dont see anything wrong with them, except they look crazy..



1) going from veg to flower back to veg can have devistating effects on your plant.. the main thing is the stress that it will cause.. which is enormous.. there is a VERY high chance of your females turning hermie from it.. light cycle stresses carry the highest chance of causing hermies over any stress that can be induced (except chemical).. so i would suggest "wasting" the nutes until you can properly identify the males and females.. which brings me (and ties into) the second question...

2) now if you are growing outdoors you cant really control when flowering starts... unless you want to manually cover and uncover the plants like you mentioned above.. but thats a pain in the ass and will stand out like a sore thumb...

most mj plants, after a 4 to 6 week veg time, will reach maturity and show their sex before flowering ever starts... there is NO chance of pollination at this point.. they are just preflowers... basically a way to tell you if they are male or female... females will show 2 white pistils that will pop out of the green V-fingers at each main node set on the main stalk... if allowed to veg long enough the pistils will show all over... i had a female that looked like it was flowering in veg because of the preflowers she was showing.. males will show their sacs.. but wont have pollen in them... so you dont have to worry about getting you females pregnant..

now my main question to you is why are you against fem'd seeds?? there is a lot of mis information about them... i would very much like to know if you have been fed that info... imho it is a waste of money (unless you plan on breeding) to get mixed seeds... fem'd seeds from a quality breeder and seed bank will have a 100% female growth rate... maybe 1 out of every 100 now MIGHT, and i stress might, be a hermie.. but that is getting less and less common... assuming again you are choosing a quality breeder and not snookie and ray rays discount beans.. lol

if you wait until the plant has reached its maturity (seeing preflowers or alternating nodes appear) then when you flower you can get 10)% of the flowering capabilities to show in the plant... if they flower younger, although you will still get a harvest, it will not be as potent or as much as if the plant reached maturity... the longer the veg the larger the harvest...



ok.... here is the thing with cfls that makes this answer hard to answer....

it really comes down to the results you are looking for....

since cfls dont penetrate well at all it takes a lot of them to properly flower a plant... maybe 3 cfls per plant to get a decent harvest... but even in the end, the harvest you get from cfls (on a watt per watt basis) is not going to compare to and HID or high output floro set up...

with that said, i dont want to discourage as you can get a harvest... i just dont want you to over expect and then get bummed...

if i had to make a setup using cfls.... i would at least 3x 23w cfls per plant... with a plant height not to exceed 18" total... 12" would be better...

sorry havent replied for a while but u no i wont get disscuraged if i have a bad harvest just like an eith would b good from a bag seed soil with no nutes i mean any thing getts me im good u no and ima get sum blueberry seeds and ima grow that with better lighting