4x4 Tent - Blue Hash and A-Train

mugsby

Member
Fuck man, that sucks! I saw that something new was posted on the forum and ive been following this very closely trying to learn about growing, expecting to read about how your plants are doing great still, and i read this! sorry to hear this. good luck with the rest, though and with cloning it. will be watching you step by step. you jsut may not know it since i dont talk much ;) haha. peace
 

smokingrubber

Well-Known Member
I had to be MUCH more careful with the rest. Used multiple ties to make it more gradual. Shouldnt have waited so long at the crucial bend period.

 

mugsby

Member
You make me feel more of a newbie than i even am. i dont even know what this "crucial bend period" iss. haha. more learning to do i guess!
 

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
It was 90% broken and dangling. Hanging by it's skin. Good to know about the duct tape, but the nodes are so close together I can't see that working in this case. I have 6 good limbs on her below the break and hopefully a clone or two.

Victim: A-Train #1 :(

I looked in and noticed she had grown a lot so I wanted to get her tied down quickly. Shoulda started with the runt again! She's been my guiny pig at every step except today. WTF? ... Oh yeah, JUST got a new sack of kush and I was still working on the first after-work bowl . . . you know how that can get you twisted up. DAMN.
Hey Rubber, why not turn this negative into a positive?

Now you can decide for yourself which method is better for you, LST or topping.

You've basically topped that plant; I'd do it to one or two more, and LST the rest - take note of the differences between the two, and the yield differences.

Just an idea.
 

smokingrubber

Well-Known Member
If I had a clone machine right now I would probably do it. Since I don't, and my hope for these few is dim . . . can't do it. I'm not set up to take care of clones right now. I have a dome tray and a teeny 2ft T5. Tsit. Hosed. I don't even have a handheld ph meter to check on the distilled water I poured on the rockwool. I used a sterile razor and clone gel, but I didn't soak em, didn't use any Thrive or anything. I kinda panicked and I didn't really know what to do. I kept wishing I had a clone machine.

I do have two more A-Train going so I can compare the three.
 

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
If I had a clone machine right now I would probably do it. Since I don't, and my hope for these few is dim . . . can't do it. I'm not set up to take care of clones right now. I have a dome tray and a teeny 2ft T5. Tsit. Hosed. I don't even have a handheld ph meter to check on the distilled water I poured on the rockwool. I used a sterile razor and clone gel, but I didn't soak em, didn't use any Thrive or anything. I kinda panicked and I didn't really know what to do. I kept wishing I had a clone machine.

I do have two more A-Train going so I can compare the three.
I think I might've been a little unclear - I'm saying, you can use two or three of your plants as "topped" plants and see what they yield vs. the plants that you LST - you can measure the yield vs. the extra work of LST and decide if it's worth it for you or not.

And as far as not having a clone machine, the clones you took in rockwool will be fine - whatsa matter with those?
 

smokingrubber

Well-Known Member
Just worried cuz I didn't have the clonex pre-soak and I didn't ph the water. And most of the cuttings are tiny cuz of how tight the node spacing was.

So far, the LST is a pain in the ass but I'm still doing it cuz I'll need these plants to take up a large footprint after I space them out in the 4x8.

The timer I found has a "Smart Cord" connection on one end. Will this work with the Lumitek Digital Ballasts?
 

smokingrubber

Well-Known Member
You make me feel more of a newbie than i even am. i dont even know what this "crucial bend period" iss. haha. more learning to do i guess!
LOL that's a highly technical term I pulled from the old rear end. Lemme splain:
The first tie-off pulls the tiny plant over toward the rim. Thats fairly easy. The 2-4 ties have to start coaxing it into a drastic 100 degree turn. :peace: (It's a 90 degree but by the time you actually make the turn its closer to 100.)

Allowing the stalk to fatten up before bending SUCKS. :evil: My nodes are so close together I could barely get my fingers in there. It got as fat as my finger by the time I tried to push it over. duh loooo-serrrr I should slap the crap out of myself.
 

smokingrubber

Well-Known Member
Ten Simple Steps Medicinal-cannabis Patients Can Take To Protect Their Crops

Since the passage of Proposition 215 in 1996, Californians have been permitted by law to grow marijuana for personal medical use. Even though it has been legal for almost 13 years now, regulations vary from county to county. In Sacramento, which hasn't established its own rules, patients are subject to the guidelines set forth by Senate Bill 420, which permits six mature and 12 immature plants and may possess up to 8 ounces of dried cannabis.

For patients who grow indoors, six mature plants and 12 immature plants can take up a significant amount of space. If the patient wants to grow enough marijuana to last until the next harvest, he or she must grow bigger plants or have a continuous garden, which can draw unwanted attention.

I'm talking about thieves. For anyone who creates something of value, there's always been someone else willing to take it from them. A dismal fact of human existence, but nevertheless a fact, as evidenced by the rash of home invasions tied to medical-marijuana cultivation that occurred in Sacramento this October.

According to The Sacramento Bee, plants were taken by armed gunmen at three of the residences. At a fourth residence, the occupant interrupted the gunmen and was fatally wounded.

In short, if you're going to cultivate your own medicine in the city, you're opening yourself up to an array of problems and risks. Here are some strategies I've learned over the years that might help patients who are new know what they're up against.

1. First rule of fight club: Don't talk about fight club!

Don't worry about telling anyone else what you're up to; what they don't know can't hurt you.

2. If you medicate where you grow, people will know.

When people smell pot burning, it turns heads and labels your domicile a pot house, plants or not.

3. If you live in an apartment complex, use compact fluorescents.

One way a thief can tell you're growing is to look at your electric meter or listen for the large fans needed to cool HID lighting. Compact fluorescents use less than a third of the electricity as HID, and you'll get almost-as-good results. In addition, because most homes aren't wired to support high-intensity discharge lights, you lessen the chance of having a fire.

4. Lights on during the day, lights out at night.

Even though you're a patient and your status is legal, the thermal-imaging scopes used by law enforcement don't know that. If it can read your heat signature from a helicopter, that's enough probable cause to come knocking at your door. ( Always have your physician's recommendation within easy reach for such occasions. ) If your room temperature will allow it, always run your lights during the day, because thermal imaging only works at night.

5. If you want to do well, cover the smell.

If you cut the smell of the garden, you lower your chances of a rip-off by at least 50 percent. Do not skimp on the expense, there is no substitute for carbon filter technology. For under $500, you can purchase a fan-and-filter combination package at the better indoor gardening stores in Sacramento.

6. Investigate before you propagate.

Don't move into a neighborhood and start a garden without feeling things out and getting to know your potential neighbors. Neighborhoods with teenagers and gangbangers should be avoided. The last thing any sick person wants is some kid or criminal breaking in and stealing their medicine.

7. Ask your landlord for permission.

Have some respect for other people's property, they worked hard for it. You can avoid unwanted visits from the guys in blue by being honest with your landlord.

8. Do not destroy or damage your dwelling if you rent it.

Water damage can be devastating to a subfloor and a raised foundation, causing rot and mold problems for the owners to deal with.

9. Do not have parties or gatherings where you are growing.

What is the goal here?

10. Keep a spotless garden, leave no waste on site.

Clean all signs of gardening: nutrients, old bottles, rock wool, stalks, leaves and anything else thieves can spot as an indicator that you're cultivating.

Some of these preventative actions go without saying, but better safe than sorry. Choose your location wisely, be respectful to the environment and the people around you.

Remember, as a member of the medical-marijuana community, you are protected in court and have safe access to medication. If you cultivate your own medication and take certain steps to keep your grow safe from unwanted visitors, your access will remain secure. As Yoda said, "Do or do not. There is no try."

http://www.mapinc.org/norml/v09/n1127/a07.htm

WORDS TO LIVE BY
 

smokingrubber

Well-Known Member
I am starting to question my timing here. The tent is on cruise control (minus a few wrong turns) but the clones and cuttings are going no where. If they don't start making moves soon, Im afraid they'll get left behind.

The one in the veg room will be technically ready to flower in a week or two imo. I will get my new equipment in approximately 3 weeks. The plan is to set everything up and go straight to flower. There is no way the kids will be ready by then at this rate. I could set up the 4x9 and veg everything for ANOTHER 3 weeks. But that means these girls will have to wait another 6 weeks minimum? I don't know if thats the smart thing to do or just kick the babies to the curb and flower the 8 with a bunch of room to fluff out? These are only 2 gallon pots and it's too late to change them.

You can see how fat the stalk is in just a few days. Craaazzzzyyyy. Thats why I'm having such a hard time bending the fuckrs.
 

Attachments

smokingrubber

Well-Known Member
About an hour before lights out, I fetch 4 plants and put them outside on the patio. Its dark and cold out so the plants seem like they relax a bit. They sit outside for 15 minutes and I bring them in one at a time for tieing. Its a gradual tie down when they're this plump. I do them 4 at a time cuz I have 4 empty pots to hold the roots while I work on them.

I dont think it was a great idea to LST under 1000w. Just thinkin out loud. Grow and learn.
 

smokingrubber

Well-Known Member
Im using the 3 part GH nutes. Can anyone provide some info on the "Lucas Formula"? Ive heard it mentioned, but found hundreds of returns on a search without sucess. Anyone recommend it?
 

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
Copy and pasted this one twice tonight but here yah go :peace:
General Hydroponics Flora Series Feeding Strategy - Lucas Formula

G-M-B (Grow-Micro-Bloom)
0-5-10 - For Vegetative cycle (18/6)
0-8-16 - For Flowering cycle (12/12)

The numbers above indicate the number of milliliters (ml) of Flora Grow, Micro or Bloom formulas that I use in one gallon (US Liquid) of nutrients.

You will notice I dont use any of the Flora “Grow” formula, do not need to, the Flora "Micro" provides plenty of Nitrogen.

There are two ways to work with this formula:

1. Top off the reservoir daily using a pH corrected water solution as required to maintain full reservoir level. After adding back an amount of water equal to the amount of your reservoir capacity you should change the reservoir and put in fresh solution.

2. Top off the reservoir daily using a pH corrected 100% strength nutrient solution as required to maintain full reservoir level. Continue to use this nutrient solution without dumping the tank unless the PPM rises above acceptable levels.

Between vegetative and flowering cycles you should dump your nutrients, then flush (possibly with Clearex) to remove salt buildups, then change to the other feeding program. Always shake your GH nutrient bottles before using them!

For young plants, just transplanted into the hydro setup, give them 50% strength nutrient mix to prevent overfeeding them while their young. Gradually bring up the mix to full strength as they grow over the next few weeks or so.

The lucas formula is normally intended for use with RO or near 0 PPM water.

NOTE: The Lucas formula eliminates the need for Epsom salts to correct (Magnesium) Mg deficiencies in most normal feeding programs recommended by manufacturers. Cannabis needs a lot of Magnesium to thrive.

The Flora Micro is providing the Nitrogen and the Magnesium in the proper balance, thus there is no need for the Grow formula and little or no room under the maximum acceptable ppm limit of 1600 @ 0.7 conversion.

Calculated EC/TDS levels:

EC microsiemen:
0-4-8: 946 µS
0-5-10: 1184 µS
0-8-16: 1894 µS

TDS @ 0.5 conversion:
0-4-8 = 473 ppm
0-5-10 = 592 ppm
0-8-16 = 947 ppm

TDS @ 0.7 conversion:
0-4-8 = 663 ppm
0-5-10 = 829 ppm
0-8-16 = 1326 ppm

Addback Calculator - (For Advanced Users)

Say you were running the 0-8-16 formula, at 0.7 conversion with a 22 gallon res. When you first fill it up, your ppm will be around 1330.

Now you have been growing for a week, and some of the water has been taken up by the plants, some has evaporated, and now your res is at 947 ppm. You need to get your ppm from 947 to 1330. Here is the equation:

((target - current) / target) * 8 ml per gallon * res gallons = Flora Micro (ml) double this figure to get Flora Bloom (ml)

Example:

((1330 - 947) / 1330) * 8 * 22
(383 / 1330) * 8 * 22
0.3 * 8 * 22 = 53 ml Flora Micro

53 ml Flora Micro, double that and you get 106 ml Flora Bloom. So 53 ml Flora Micro and 106 ml Flora Bloom to add back to your 22 gallon res to get you from 947 to 1330.

Using Hard Water GH Micro

I had been experimenting with using the Hard water Micro as a substitute for the normal Flora Micro, this to account for my hard 350 PPM water and the lack of a large enough RO filter at the time. It has worked well for me. I just kept my reservoir below 1150 PPM @ .5 conversion and its all good.

One tip - do not pH down this stuff, the hard water micro will drop pH gradually over the next 24 hours, for example I mix up a batch, it is at like 6.2, the next day, its at 5.6-5.8 after running in the system for a while. If I pH downed that to 5.7 before putting it in the system, it ended up as low as 4.8-5.2 by the next day.

My conclusion, the hard water micro was buffering the alkaline crud in my water, it just doesnot do it ASAP fast like the phosphoric acid.
 

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
Im using the 3 part GH nutes. Can anyone provide some info on the "Lucas Formula"? Ive heard it mentioned, but found hundreds of returns on a search without sucess. Anyone recommend it?
I've used it with success this far.

RO water, 8 mL/Floranova Bloom per gallon - haven't changed my res thus far (about seven weeks), and no deficiencies - pH has also been locked onto 5.8 for the past few weeks, haven't had to adjust at all.

And as far as the post above, the different nute amounts during veg and flower were later retracted by Lucas is his popular "Ask Lucas" thread on cannabis-world.com.

The strength is dependent on the lighting system used, not the stage of growth - 5/10 is for fluorescents, 8/16 for HID lighting.

It's really a great system, I'd recommend reading through this entire thread if you're more interested:

http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/showthread.php?t=892

One of my top three all-time threads.
 

smokingrubber

Well-Known Member
That page worked but all the links off it seems bad. Not your fault.

Since I just dropped another 200 friday on extra nutes, I wont be changing anytime soon. I was wondering why hydro-dummy said no one ever buys that stuff (florablend). I ordered 2½ gallons cuz be only carried qts. I'm stocked up.

as always... maybe on the next crop.
 

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
Still tossing around 3-600s vs 2-1000. Here is my current tent setup on the bottom and a couple options.

I'm having the same issues as you regarding planning my next flowering room (either 2 1Ks or 4 600s), but if you're deadset on an 8x4 footprint, then the 1Ks make more sense - the extra 600 in that drawing still doesn't cover the perimeter.
 

laserbrn

Well-Known Member
I'm having the same issues as you regarding planning my next flowering room (either 2 1Ks or 4 600s), but if you're deadset on an 8x4 footprint, then the 1Ks make more sense - the extra 600 in that drawing still doesn't cover the perimeter.
Whether or not it will cover the perimiter will depend upon the reflector chosen. You may have some coverage problems with 3x 600w's covering the perimiter but the light at the perimiter of a 4x4 w/ a 1k light isn't very impressive either.

It may very well be 6 one way and 1/2 a dozen the other. I think you'll be more flexible and have more options if you stick with the 3 600w's though. Either way of course would be awesome. Are you having problems covering the perimiter with a single 600w now?
 
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