MY True HP Aero Plug&Play Pods

[tree farmer]

No, scratch that... I would be using the wires from my pump to the dywer switch but then could i still use the transformer?
I am totally in the dark on how to hook this pump to the pressure switch... I would appreciate any input at all! Thanks!

your pump has a transformer to take regular 120 volt AC and convert it to whatever power the pump uses. you need the transformer to power the pump.

you have to take a 120 volt AC regular current line and run it to the line inputs on the pressure switch (should be marked L1 and L2 on pressure switch)and then come off the other two terminals on the pressure switch(should be marked T1 and T2 or something similar) and run those to an outlet and plug the pump transformer into that outlet. now when the switch calls for pressure it will send 120 volts to the outlet which will power the transformer which will turn on the pump.

the only other way to do it is if the pressure switch is rated for whatever voltage (ACorDC) the transformer puts out. if the pressure switch is (i doubt very much it is)rated for the output voltage of the transformer then you can plug the transformer into the wall and run the 2 wires from the transformer to the pressure switch L1 and L2 terminals and then run 2 wires from the other two terminals on the pressure switch to the pump.

 

[travish413]

your pump has a transformer to take regular 120 volt AC and convert it to whatever power the pump uses. you need the transformer to power the pump.

you have to take a 120 volt AC regular current line and run it to the line inputs on the pressure switch (should be marked L1 and L2 on pressure switch)and then come off the other two terminals on the pressure switch(should be marked T1 and T2 or something similar) and run those to an outlet and plug the pump transformer into that outlet. now when the switch calls for pressure it will send 120 volts to the outlet which will power the transformer which will turn on the pump.

the only other way to do it is if the pressure switch is rated for whatever voltage (ACorDC) the transformer puts out. if the pressure switch is (i doubt very much it is)rated for the output voltage of the transformer then you can plug the transformer into the wall and run the 2 wires from the transformer to the pressure switch L1 and L2 terminals and then run 2 wires from the other two terminals on the pressure switch to the pump.

Thanks! I called dywer customer support and it blew their minds. I am still waiting for them to call me back with an answer on how to hook it up. haha I shouldnt laugh tho, hell i didnt have a clue either. You guys have helped me the whole way through. Id still be growing in water with some air stones and air pumps if i wouldnt have came across this thread. Thanks again!

 

[travish413]

No... I take back what i said about dywer. They just called me back and actually tore one apart right then and she wired it up to make sure what she thought should work did and called me back and told me basically the same as what you all have explained to me.

 

[travish413]

Atomizer
You are familiar with these dywer switches. Well, like i said i just spoke with the customer service and they said that they had made a mistake and that each line and motor screw will control two seperate systems. You know how there is two on top and two on bottom? You probably already know this but just a little info i thoght id pass on just in case...

 

[Atomizer]

Should have it all sorted now
The dwyer switch could do either the high side or low side voltage of the transformer. Switching the 120v side is better for the transformer than leaving it powered up 24/7 and just switching the 24v output on/off. It won`t run often enough to warrant leaving it on
The transformer is probably rated something like 120vac @ 300mA, 24vac @ 1amp.

 

[travish413]

Just got my netafim parts in today. I got the orange pin check valves and i also got the 4 head fogger but it has a green pin. I am guessing they have the same specs? Do you have any idea Atomizer? The nozzles are alot smaller than what i was expecting... Which is perfect bc i was afraid they were going to be to big. They just looked big in the video on their web site i guess. Anyway, I am ready to test these dgt misters out too and see how they do. I will keep yall informed.

 

[Atomizer]

Not sure about the green, is that the colour of the adv pin or the nozzles?
A 4-way cross assembly is fairly compact, 2"x 2" square or about 2.5" across the diagonal and 3" high including the adv and base.
edit: Color code indicator:
Purple opening pressure: 2.0 bar closing pressure: 0.9 bar
*Green opening pressure : 3.0 bar closing pressure: 1.5 bar
Orange opening pressure: 4.0 bar closing pressure: 1.8 bar

 

[travish413]

Not sure about the green, is that the colour of the adv pin or the nozzles?
A 4-way cross assembly is fairly compact, 2"x 2" square or about 2.5" across the diagonal and 3" high including the adv and base.
edit: Color code indicator:
Purple opening pressure: 2.0 bar closing pressure: 0.9 bar
*Green opening pressure : 3.0 bar closing pressure: 1.5 bar
Orange opening pressure: 4.0 bar closing pressure: 1.8 bar

green is the color of the pin. should i put the four head fogger on the orange or green pins in your opinioin, or what would be the determining factor?

 

[Atomizer]

I`d definitely go with the orange pin adv`s. The green and purple pin versions are used with lower system pressures.
The determining factor is just pump pressure, a pump with 50psi max couldn`t manage an orange pin adv as they won`t open below 58psi.

 

[travish413]

Well, I am waiting for my cycle timer and solenoid to come in. I have been thinking about how I should run my plumbing and wanted to run it by yall and get some input if yall didnt mind. The inlet and outlet on my pump is 3/8" and my acc. tand in 1" I have some misters that i wanted to try that fit on a 1/2" and some that fit on a 3/8" I thought i would run 3/8" tube to the acc. tank where it would be increased to an inch tee. Then I would reduce down to half inch pvc and connect the remaining misters i had to the 1/2" line. Incorporate quick connects to the 1/2" line for the 3/8" misters and just drill holes in the pvc for the dgt misters that just use the 1/2" pvc. Does that make sense???....

 

[Atomizer]

Plumbing in everything between the pump and the solenoid is likely to be the trickiest part of the job.
You have the pump, pressure switch, pressure gauge, accumulator (ideally with an inline shutoff valve), PRV, an outlet for draining back to res and finally the solenoid. Its a pity they don`t use a single pipe/thread size for everything..but that`d be too easy

 

[travish413]

Plumbing in everything between the pump and the solenoid is likely to be the trickiest part of the job.
You have the pump, pressure switch, pressure gauge, accumulator (ideally with an inline shutoff valve), PRV, an outlet for draining back to res and finally the solenoid. Its a pity they don`t use a single pipe/thread size for everything..but that`d be too easy

Yeah, I am just going to have to trust myself and do it. I am just waiting for the pressure switch and its just eating me up and i cant hardly wait.

 

[fatman7574]

The Delavan small SN nozzles and the adapters I ordered from Patriot Supply are still not here yet. They just did send me a shipping inventory on Saturday. I assume that means they made it to the Post Office yesterday. Cheaper than from Stephen but definitely not quick. Stephen however was far from quick. Patriot Supply said they had to order the adapters. They are about half of Stephens quoted prices though. I have 30 days off and nothing new to play with.

 

[travish413]

I know this doesnt have anything to do with this thread but I trust yalls opinion more than anybody elses. I am about to buy a couple new inline fans and was wondering what yall used and what you thought about vortex. I was going to get 2 6in vortex. One more thing envriomental control? If yall get could any one or if you have the one you want which one is it? I want to be able to control everything with one unit.

 

[travish413]

just got my dywer switch in! gonna get in all hooked up and take some pics and let yall critque it.

 

[Atomizer]

Hi Travish,
Set the bypass pressure on the pump first, then set the dwyer switch cut-in/cut-out without the accumulator. Finally set the accumulator air precharge to 2psi lower than the pump cut-in pressure. If you have the 20gal accumulator inline when you set up the switch you`ll be there for hours waiting for it to fill

Fatman,
Fingers crossed for you that the rest of the bits arrive before xmas puts the brakes on the post office.

 

[travish413]

Hi Travish,
Set the bypass pressure on the pump first, then set the dwyer switch cut-in/cut-out without the accumulator. Finally set the accumulator air precharge to 2psi lower than the pump cut-in pressure. If you have the 20gal accumulator inline when you set up the switch you`ll be there for hours waiting for it to fill

Fatman,
Fingers crossed for you that the rest of the bits arrive before xmas puts the brakes on the post office.

Thanks for the advice ! Oh yeah, the post office doesnt take a break. Just christmas day. I work for the slave drivers No, its not that bad.... But thanks again for the tip.

 

[fatman7574]

Consider the design of a vortex fan. They simply take a large fan and put reducers on each side so that it is basically something like a 8 or 10 inch fan stuck between two 6 inch ducts. Nothing special there. Just as long as the transitions are smooth tapers it will work in any DIY situation. Also consider furnaces use squirrel cage fans not a prop type fan. This is beacuse squirrel cage fans work more efficiently where there are pressure differences. A squirrel cage fan uses lesss power when faced witha pressure differnce wherae as a prop type fans power suage incraeses when there is a pressure difference. This means a higher wattage lower flow squirrel cage fan when pushing against the friction of long ducts and carbon filters will provide the same or more air movement than a [rop type fan advertised at the smae wattage and a higher flow. However if the fan will not experience long ducy ts abnd carbon filters etc then a prop fan would p operate more efficiently. A squirel cage fan without pressure differences use its maximum rated wattage.

 

[fatman7574]

Some more interesting siphon air atomizer nozzles. They even sell a lot in plastic. http://www.i-spraynozzle.com/en_Spray_Nozzle_Detail.asp?l_title=Clean-out-Air-Atomizing-nozzle&id=86&bid=60 These lool a lot like those in the old retailed systems.

 

[tree farmer]

Consider the design of a vortex fan. They simply take a large fan and put reducers on each side so that it is basically something like a 8 or 10 inch fan stuck between two 6 inch ducts. Nothing special there. Just as long as the transitions are smooth tapers it will work in any DIY situation. Also consider furnaces use squirrel cage fans not a prop type fan. This is beacuse squirrel cage fans work more efficiently where there are pressure differences. A squirrel cage fan uses lesss power when faced witha pressure differnce wherae as a prop type fans power suage incraeses when there is a pressure difference. This means a higher wattage lower flow squirrel cage fan when pushing against the friction of long ducts and carbon filters will provide the same or more air movement than a [rop type fan advertised at the smae wattage and a higher flow. However if the fan will not experience long ducy ts abnd carbon filters etc then a prop fan would p operate more efficiently. A squirel cage fan without pressure differences use its maximum rated wattage.

thats funny you mention furnace blowers. back in the day thats all i use to use. id go around to heating companies and ask them to save there old blowers from furnace upgrades they were doing. id give 20 bucks for them and they were happy and i was happy not having to spend 200-300 hundred on an inline fan. id put them in a box with fitted intake and exhaust. they really worked good. used them for years. now i use Fantech. they are some really nice fans. i also have some vortex and there ok for light jobs but nothing beats the fantech fk XL series. able to push thru alot of static pressure . but at 550 a pop not cheap.

Man i never thought id have to say this but the chambers are not big enough. they have filled almost completely up and are closing in on the misters. im very glad i kept things small(shrubs not trees) to test. i think ill be able to make it but i can see im going to have to have larger chambers for trees. im sure if i would have had it dialed in from the beginning id really be in trouble as there defineatly wouldednt have been enough room. thats abou 5.5 cubis feet filled . just some thing to nthink about. i know most of you guys are into smaller ladies but anyone interested in trees id recommend larger chambers.