This is where legends come from.

DubsFan

Well-Known Member
Everything is looking good.
It's nice to see it in action with some lettuce too! :bigjoint: I've been following this thread and really dig it man.

My understanding is you stuck with (3) 1000w bulbs instead of the 600's yes?

Regarding your in line booster fans.

Is this 6" or 8" ducting, looks like 6"?

What is the total run or length of all your ducting, cool tubes included? 10ft with all the bends???

Do you know your cfm rating per fan? Most 6" I see are in the 100cfm range.

I only ask because I'm trying to decide on how to duct these 1000 watters I have. Do I go 6" where there is a great supply of hardware at the Homo Depot or Lowes, or do I go with tth 8" big boy set up (hoods too) but suddenly 8" fans and ducting becomes less available and more expensive.

My ducting spant for (2) 1000w cool tubes is going to exceed 15ft.

Thanks in advance your answers and input.

Killer thread.
 

strictly seedleSs

Well-Known Member
Ive seen this setup done with drain to waste using Coir, but not soil. that would be awesome if you could do it with soil. Maybe just build some octagon shaped flower boxes.
 

strictly seedleSs

Well-Known Member
Thanks for following my grow Dubs. There are only 2 1000 watters in the grow right now, it will be 3 600w next time. The intake for the cool tubes starts with 6" ducting with a 250cfm booster fan, then when it leaves the room through the ceiling it jumps up to 8" line with a 650cfm inline 8" fan. The total ducting in the room is about 10' with a 90 deg sweep (not a bend ;-) ) Then when it leaves the room its about 4' to the big fan with another sweep, and 7' with another sweep right out my roof. Im sure I would be fine with just the one 650cfm fan, but the booster fan def helps the pull of air.
 

DubsFan

Well-Known Member
Or just smash some square sacks together on a tray in your coliseum type set up. The beauty of soil is you can manipulate it.
 

DubsFan

Well-Known Member
Thanks for following my grow Dubs. There are only 2 1000 watters in the grow right now, it will be 3 600w next time. The intake for the cool tubes starts with 6" ducting with a 250cfm booster fan, then when it leaves the room through the ceiling it jumps up to 8" line with a 650cfm inline 8" fan. The total ducting in the room is about 10' with a 90 deg sweep (not a bend ;-) ) Then when it leaves the room its about 4' to the big fan with another sweep, and 7' with another sweep right out my roof. Im sure I would be fine with just the one 650cfm fan, but the booster fan def helps the pull of air.
Yes a sweep....:bigjoint:

Thanks for the intell.
 

DubsFan

Well-Known Member
You have soil sacks, some are round and some are square. It doesn't really matter what their shape is if you smash them together. The square soil sacks are used for efficiency in longer runs. But really, once you put dirt in a bag it just kind of sits there and you make it form any shape you want, except maybe a triangle.

My point being in order to have a this as a vertical coliseum soil grow you can use soil bags or sacks instead of pots. Either way really...

Hope that makes sense.
 

strictly seedleSs

Well-Known Member
okay i get what your saying, one of my moms is in a bag like that. That would work for sure, maybe just make this setup with a 6' diameter and that would give you the space needed for bags. good thinkin dubs.
 

strictly seedleSs

Well-Known Member
I just changed out the res. My ph level is down to 6.7 after the nutes, and before the ph down. Im trying to change the res every 10 days tops.
 

Redeflect

Well-Known Member
I forgot where it is... someone in here has already made a Colosseum where the lvls had adjustable flood gates to the lower lvls to keep the water at the right lvl in the tubes. I think it was something like 5x5 feet and he used a 1000w that worked fine... i think 2000w is going to be overkill for you. Just look up Colosseum and you'll probably find his journal (if you haven't already).
 

strictly seedleSs

Well-Known Member
no i havent seen another grow like this on RIU, but i have seen enough in real life. Ive helped with others, and this is my version. The ones i have seen are 6" pipe with a 6' diameter. Mine is a 4" pipe, with a 5' diameter. I think its funny when people use "overkill" to describe light setups. The plants dont complain, and ive never seen one built without using 1000w bulbs. But for the sake of my electric bill I will be switching the lights next time, and adding another tier.
 

dgk4life

Well-Known Member
never too much light.... and i shame ne one who thinks diff..more light more bud....more bud means more smiles just keep the temps down and you'll be alright
 

smppro

Well-Known Member
This is a good store and have had some hude sales on equipments, controllers and co2 generators(up to 70% off) They dont usually sell them for this price but i guess they are hurting right now. Check out their specials.
http://www.sunshinehydro.com/
 

DubsFan

Well-Known Member
Hey seedless. Outdoor is done for the season other than harvest really...I'm setting up an indoor. Basically, this brain, will it only put out the required amounts of Co2 (i'm an indoor noob)? I have a well insulated room that will have an ac/heating unit turn on or off when temps go over 80 - 85...in the winter the room should hold in the 70's. At times there will not be fresh air pumped in.

The Co2 brain compensates for this?
 

strictly seedleSs

Well-Known Member
The brain compensates for all aspects of your enviroment. Humidity, temp, Co2 ppm, and can control the lights and pumps as well. Im just looking for a CAPS PPM-3, its a simple and "affordable" brain. I just have to plug my Co2 solenoid (controls the valve with a magnet) to the PPM-3 and it keeps the ppms at your desired amount. They run about $350-400, but these "brain" systems can run between $600-?000. Its is a must have for maximizing your yields for pennys on the dollar. Co2 is cheap, the equiptment can be costly. If you buy from craigslist and ebay it wont cost that much.
 

strictly seedleSs

Well-Known Member
its easier to control the Co2 levels if your room is sealed (except for the A/C Heater). Just make sure the air pulled into and out of the room is only for your lights. The Co2 will be more consistent for the plants as well.
 

DubsFan

Well-Known Member
its easier to control the Co2 levels if your room is sealed (except for the A/C Heater). Just make sure the air pulled into and out of the room is only for your lights. The Co2 will be more consistent for the plants as well.
Only air in will be from AC/heater. Lights will be cool tubed sucking from outdoors and exhausting outdoors.
 
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