SoG Grow Room Discussion
- Thread starter SOG
- Start date
danksmoker77
Well-Known Member
wow that seems very efficient those temp changes seem great. you would think with proper exausting in the attic you should be able to get pretty decent temps. Sorry if you already stated this but how many amps does your chiller draw? i Am thinking that this would be more energy efficien in my sealed cabinet than the electrical enclosure A/C i use now? Also how often does the compressor in the chiller run.
SOG
Well-Known Member
couldn't find it on the manual, it somewhere between 4-6amp
and it is working amazingly, better than expected,
i just need to dial in the res size etc...
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
UNF BRO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thas what the fuck im talking about!i would like to thank you for thinking outside the box brother.
shit, just think if we met a couple years back, we coulda had our own company, hydro innovations WHO?? WHAT?
SOG
Well-Known Member
ty LB, its in the works bra
i would like to thank you for thinking outside the box brother.
shit, just think if we met a couple years back, we coulda had our own company, hydro innovations WHO?? WHAT?
out to look for a 50g res
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
brute trashcans on wheels work nicely
SOG
Well-Known Member
greenthumb111
Well-Known Member
Very nice device SOG! You really used what you had to the max and made it work. With exhaust air at that temp you wont need AC if the outer room buffer zone is cooled to 72 degrees. I just wonder if the radiant heat on the roof will be deflected by your reflective layer and insulation?which one?
Where did you get that trash can? Why dont you use those blue 55 gal barrels? Granted the trash can looks sturdy and it has wheels too.
Again excellent device.
SOG
Well-Known Member
ty gt,
its a good idea, keeping some of this cool air inside to help cool down the room
the radiant heat is a non issue with my setup, my room is located in the center of the attic
since the attic is always hot during the day, to crazy temps over 120 easily
non of the room walls are external or even close, including the ceiling
the room is right in the center of the attic, so no radiant heat is an issue
and if i exhaust this cool air into the attic it will eliminate the attic heat
and help with keeping the house cool, with less AC usage during the day
in the winter i can shout the chiller off, and use this hot air to warm up the house
got the trash can at home depot, the blue and gray are the same in diff colors
the barrels are hard to move around
this is a 55gallon, in the picture its filled up with exactly 50 gallon
which are now being chilled to 36f so i can run another test in the morning
i also changed the pump to the 633, I'm only getting 210gph with the 396
and only up to 270gph with the 633, the chiller needs to run at 480gph to be efficient
G33kDro
Well-Known Member
Amazing work! if your 1/4 HP chiller is working that well, I am almost scared to think what my 1/2HP unit will do... i haven't fired anything up yet.(very anxious to, but don't have an icebox/radiator like yours, yet!)
I would love to get my hands on a radiator like that... nice and big. why is your gph getting bogged down like that? possibly smaller tubing size in the radiator?
-G33k
EDIT: on the GPH rating have you thought of using separate pumps? BenVegas' thread has discussed this, and i believe it works better that way, at least in theory.
I would love to get my hands on a radiator like that... nice and big. why is your gph getting bogged down like that? possibly smaller tubing size in the radiator?
-G33k
EDIT: on the GPH rating have you thought of using separate pumps? BenVegas' thread has discussed this, and i believe it works better that way, at least in theory.
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
which one?
ahhhh great minds think alike.... i knew me and you would hit it off and get along JUSSSSSSS fine
i got the baby brother brute... that one wouldnt fit through my door and was too bulky for storage needs.
i just got the round 50 gallon one.
words of advice...where are the res and chiller gonna reside? up in the attic with everything? or in the 'room' garage whatever under the attic?
please keep in mind about pump lift and length of tubing.
also with your chiller being set to 36F, in theory your room temps would be 10F degrees above your water temps.... give or take
but because of your situation, i wouldnt put set numbers on it. i think your mileage will vary on different days....but once its finalized and stabilize your temps will be perfect.
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
also if you didnt know......i would leave it on (chiller) during lights off cuz chillers turn off and on when that differential is met or not met so its not like it would be burning constantly just like an a/c but more efficient, imo.
i also think this will help keep your res cold and give it a great booster start on the day when the lights start and are on and kicking.
im thinking with lights off your temperature window will be 60-65F
i also think this will help keep your res cold and give it a great booster start on the day when the lights start and are on and kicking.
im thinking with lights off your temperature window will be 60-65F
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
another problem solved.
whas next on the problem solving list?
seems to me you can at least do away with one of those portable a/c, if not both of them. however backup is always good.
but with this system, really doesnt look like your gonna need them. furthermore if inside temp are a problem im sure you could rig up a manifold and buy some iceboxes and run your main room exhaust icebox with reflector iceboxes in the tent. @ only $100-150 per icebox, you are already winning when you have the res chiller already (which is of course the biggest cost factor in setups like these)
you also never got back to me about condensation buildup or if there even was any.
i wonder how stable and/or good your RH will be.
whas next on the problem solving list?
seems to me you can at least do away with one of those portable a/c, if not both of them. however backup is always good.
but with this system, really doesnt look like your gonna need them. furthermore if inside temp are a problem im sure you could rig up a manifold and buy some iceboxes and run your main room exhaust icebox with reflector iceboxes in the tent. @ only $100-150 per icebox, you are already winning when you have the res chiller already (which is of course the biggest cost factor in setups like these)
you also never got back to me about condensation buildup or if there even was any.
i wonder how stable and/or good your RH will be.
SOG
Well-Known Member
ty G33kwhy is your gph getting bogged down like that? possibly smaller tubing size in the radiator?
-G33k
EDIT: on the GPH rating have you thought of using separate pumps? BenVegas' thread has discussed this, and i believe it works better that way, at least in theory.
I'm thinking the way its plugged in now,
I'm delivering the most cold water first to the coil
before the temps get mixed up and go down in the chiller
i noticed it will be simpler to run two pumps then brake the operation cycle to chill and vent with timers in order to have the system auto run
i havent seen BenVegas thread, i will have to take a look at that
the res will be inside the grow room in the attic,
the op must remain stealth and invisible at the house level
during the night, it will go even 57 up there
you are on the money LB, i was starting to realize this
I'm sorry i missed your condensation question,
condensation seem to start building up below 45f,
it is minimal sweat to non existence
this is only happening while the res is building up its chill and the hot air is off
see previous comment,
do i need to open a other depot so you'd feel free to talk?
danksmoker77
Well-Known Member
wow i just finshed reading heath robinsons journal and that shit was crazy!!!!
SOG
Well-Known Member
i know its amazing what people out there come up with
gotta love those out of the box thinkers