Stoney McFried's diary of a level two plant slayer(a grow journal)

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robert 14617

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it happened right after you repoted ? now all the new groth is fresh and green ,just keep an eye out its gotten over what ever it was
 

Twistyman

Well-Known Member
Have you checked the FAQ chary by Neitzsche.. FAQ,..to plant prob..to nute/ph prob..to chart.. some similar pics, but don't throw everything at it... it may just be PH issue ... Just some pics...

fig 16 is similar..
Magnesium (Mg)
Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency:
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.


Figure 15


Figure 16
 

Stoney McFried

Well-Known Member
No, this happened BEFORE I repotted, before I added molasses, before I added a dark cycle.
it happened right after you repoted ? now all the new groth is fresh and green ,just keep an eye out its gotten over what ever it was
I did, but I didn't think that was what it was...because these are gray blotches...and I used bottled water.
Have you checked the FAQ chary by Neitzsche.. FAQ,..to plant prob..to nute/ph prob..to chart.. some similar pics, but don't throw everything at it... it may just be PH issue ... Just some pics...

fig 16 is similar..
Magnesium (Mg)
Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency:
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.


Figure 15


Figure 16
 

EKIMRI

Well-Known Member
I think she's still too young to be showing any deficiencies, if anything at that age it might be too much of something... Looks like the issue has susided however, write it off as one of lifes little mysteries, and enjoy that lovely lush new green growth ;-)

Lookin good Stoney...
 

Stoney McFried

Well-Known Member
Yeah...weird, because I wasn't gonna give her any nutes till she's at least a month, maybe more.And since there are nutes in the new soil.., I'm gonna be extra cautious.
I think she's still too young to be showing any deficiencies, if anything at that age it might be too much of something... Looks like the issue has susided however, write it off as one of lifes little mysteries, and enjoy that lovely lush new green growth ;-)

Lookin good Stoney...

By the way, guys...I just called, and 5 pounds of dry ice is gonna be $2.68!!!
If I use that in the top part of my swamp cooler, do you think it will blow out Co2?
 

EKIMRI

Well-Known Member
Sorry Stoney, not a thread jack I assure you, but some pertinent info relative to using dry ice for enrichment as you are considering...

To calculate the amount of Carbon Dioxide needed to enrich a room to 1500 ppm, first calculate the volume of the growing space. For instance, an 8x8 foot room with an 8 foot ceiling would contain 512 cubic feet of space. Determine the CO2 needed to enrich to 1500 ppm by multiplying the volume of space by .0015. 512 x .0015 = 0.768

Thus, 0.768 cubic feet (or rounded up to 0.8 cu ft ) of carbon dioxide will be needed to enrich this room at 1500 ppm. 1 lb of CO2 is equal to about 8.5 cubic feet at normal temperature and atmospheric pressure.

The rate at which carbon dioxide needs to be replaced is purely a function of how much ventilation the space receives and how many plants are consuming CO2 in the grow space. Only testing monitoring will ensure CO2 levels remain somewhat constant. Grow rooms that rely heavily on external ventilation to control temperatures or smell should not consider CO2 enrichment, because any gas introduced to the space will be blown out as quickly as it's created. A sealed room that relies on no external ventilation is ideal for CO2 enrichment. Since the ideal temperature for CO2 enrichment is much higher than normal, growers who employ this technique will need much less ventilation (if any).

DRY ICE

Dry ice is nothing but carbon dioxide in its solid form. Dry ice is commercially available nearly everywhere for industrial, medical, and theatrical (fog machine) applications. One pound of dry ice is equal to 8.5 cubic feet of gaseous CO2. Create a CO2 chamber by poking holes in the sides and top of an insulated box, foam cooler, or similar container that can insulate the material from human skin and plants. The box also helps insulate the solid ice so that it vaporizes more slowly. Ideally it should take an entire day for the chunk of ice to vaporize, although smaller chunks may need to be added at intervals through the day to maintain 1500 ppm.

Some growers place their containers of dry ice directly over grow lights. The falling CO2 bathes the plants beneath them and also helps control temperatures from hot lights.

For our 512 CF grow room, about 1 lb of dry ice per day would be needed to keep CO2 at 1500 ppm. At $.60/lb, dry ice would be a very cost effective solution. Storage of dry ice in a home freezer will slow it's vaporization, but dry ice is hard to store ahead because doesn't have a long shelf life. Not many homes have freezers capable of maintaining -109°F.

Advantages
-Inexpensive, widely available material
-Easy to construct and maintain
-No risk of catastrophic failure
-Dry ice has slight cooling effect

Disadvantages
-Impossible to regulate evaporation
-Must be used immediately - has no shelf life
-Can harm skin if handled without gloves.

bongsmilie
 

tipsgnob

New Member
I think it looks fine. seedlings are tender anyway and stuff that gets on the leaves(potting shittlets and such) leave spots. the new growth looks fine......at this point just leave it alone and let grow...no nutes... no more molasses...you doing fine..:)
 

Stoney McFried

Well-Known Member
Awesome post, thanks.I'll have the old man measure the space and calculate...since I only have one plant, I was only thinking of hitting her a couple of times a week with co2.
Sorry Stoney, not a thread jack I assure you, but some pertinent info relative to using dry ice for enrichment as you are considering...

To calculate the amount of Carbon Dioxide needed to enrich a room to 1500 ppm, first calculate the volume of the growing space. For instance, an 8x8 foot room with an 8 foot ceiling would contain 512 cubic feet of space. Determine the CO2 needed to enrich to 1500 ppm by multiplying the volume of space by .0015. 512 x .0015 = 0.768

Thus, 0.768 cubic feet (or rounded up to 0.8 cu ft ) of carbon dioxide will be needed to enrich this room at 1500 ppm. 1 lb of CO2 is equal to about 8.5 cubic feet at normal temperature and atmospheric pressure.

The rate at which carbon dioxide needs to be replaced is purely a function of how much ventilation the space receives and how many plants are consuming CO2 in the grow space. Only testing monitoring will ensure CO2 levels remain somewhat constant. Grow rooms that rely heavily on external ventilation to control temperatures or smell should not consider CO2 enrichment, because any gas introduced to the space will be blown out as quickly as it's created. A sealed room that relies on no external ventilation is ideal for CO2 enrichment. Since the ideal temperature for CO2 enrichment is much higher than normal, growers who employ this technique will need much less ventilation (if any).

DRY ICE

Dry ice is nothing but carbon dioxide in its solid form. Dry ice is commercially available nearly everywhere for industrial, medical, and theatrical (fog machine) applications. One pound of dry ice is equal to 8.5 cubic feet of gaseous CO2. Create a CO2 chamber by poking holes in the sides and top of an insulated box, foam cooler, or similar container that can insulate the material from human skin and plants. The box also helps insulate the solid ice so that it vaporizes more slowly. Ideally it should take an entire day for the chunk of ice to vaporize, although smaller chunks may need to be added at intervals through the day to maintain 1500 ppm.

Some growers place their containers of dry ice directly over grow lights. The falling CO2 bathes the plants beneath them and also helps control temperatures from hot lights.

For our 512 CF grow room, about 1 lb of dry ice per day would be needed to keep CO2 at 1500 ppm. At $.60/lb, dry ice would be a very cost effective solution. Storage of dry ice in a home freezer will slow it's vaporization, but dry ice is hard to store ahead because doesn't have a long shelf life. Not many homes have freezers capable of maintaining -109°F.

Advantages
-Inexpensive, widely available material
-Easy to construct and maintain
-No risk of catastrophic failure
-Dry ice has slight cooling effect

Disadvantages
-Impossible to regulate evaporation
-Must be used immediately - has no shelf life
-Can harm skin if handled without gloves.

bongsmilie
 

Stoney McFried

Well-Known Member
Will do.:bigjoint:
I think it looks fine. seedlings are tender anyway and stuff that gets on the leaves(potting shittlets and such) leave spots. the new growth looks fine......at this point just leave it alone and let grow...no nutes... no more molasses...you doing fine..:)
 

EKIMRI

Well-Known Member
Anxious to watch your grow too tips. I'm about 10 days out from harvest on my first couple little WW's, I just love watching the kids grow! bongsmilie
 

Twistyman

Well-Known Member
Awesome post, thanks.I'll have the old man measure the space and calculate...since I only have one plant, I was only thinking of hitting her a couple of times a week with co2.
If you use carbon dioxide don't let pets sleep near it its heavier than air and stays low to the ground and will kill an animal if too much accumulates ......

I started 9 newbies today...........
I planted three lowryders today that popped in two days and my three snowryders are starting to show tap root, so three days to pop.....100%...... plant them tomorrow.. bongsmilie
 
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