• Here is a link to the full explanation: https://rollitup.org/t/welcome-back-did-you-try-turning-it-off-and-on-again.1104810/

Calcium deficiency in high pressure aeroponics

Wastei

Well-Known Member
Calmag should optimally only be used as a pH buffer in water cultures if needed. You would be surprised how low the requirements for both Ca/Mg are in water cultures and Aeroponics.

There's more than enough Ca in the base formula for running Aero with 3:1 Ca/Mg ratio. You don't want to lower nitrogen even lower and you don't need extra Ca/Mg in Aero. Sensi 3-part is different in composition compared to gh 3 part. Sensi micro only has 2.4% Ca compared to 5.0% in GH's equivalent. Not comparable when doing "Lucas formula".

You don't need to change the mineral ratio much throughout the grow since the requirements doesn't change much. Many people use the same formula from start to finish with stellar results.

If you want to supplement with Ca/Mg it's better to choose a product like Calimagic with very little nitrogen content.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
What is the % of hypochlorous acid on the product you are using?

Salt is a no go. I have a Hypochlorous generator and have tried it. You will fry your plants from the excess sodium.
They are recommending Potassium Chloride be used for agricultural applications rather than Sodium Chloride (Table Salt)
I am going to start a post on this topic soon! ✌
The cheapest and easiest route for sterility is using regular unscented bleach(sodium hypochlorite). The Sodium part is minute compared to the hypochlorite side of the molecule and at application rates it's not even detectable. You may even argue that the small amount of sodium better metabolism and uptake of water.

Hypochlorite becomes hypochlorous acid when being dissolved in water. People argue that Calcium hypochlorite is better but it's always more crude in practical use with more sodium chloride than any bleach intended for cleaning floors and surfaces.

I've used it for decades at this point using a dilution calculator like this:
http://foodsafe.ca/dilution-calculator.html

0.5-1ppm is recommended for Aero.
 

cage

Well-Known Member
The cheapest and easiest route for sterility is using regular unscented bleach(sodium hypochlorite). The Sodium part is minute compared to the hypochlorite side of the molecule and at application rates it's not even detectable. You may even argue that the small amount of sodium better metabolism and uptake of water.

Hypochlorite becomes hypochlorous acid when being dissolved in water. People argue that Calcium hypochlorite is better but it's always more crude in practical use with more sodium chloride than any bleach intended for cleaning floors and surfaces.

I've used it for decades at this point using a dilution calculator like this:
http://foodsafe.ca/dilution-calculator.html

0.5-1ppm is recommended for Aero.
Sodium makes up approximately 30.88% of the mass of sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl).

I think my Calcium hypochlorite is less than 5% sodium.
Was dirt cheap too, made for disinfecting well water.
 

cage

Well-Known Member
Iam not sure on that. This offends basically what i worked out with @cage, to just increase the calcium. If there is more calcium in the water i guess more will be absorbed at same transpiration levels.

For now i keep running at 5.8-6.2 but ill further investigate what is the ideal range for aero. Sadly there is little info available for HPA overall.

You knocked off one of my horns. I dont want to ruin it by pushing too high. Despite i like extremes so much, i want to be a sucessfully grower the most. I backed down to 750 PPFD and will increase from there again. I will from now on only try to use extreme light levels when i have mastered everything else.

Ill look into that. I didnt expected to deal with the nutrients on such (for me) advanced levels.
The calcium uptake is still parabolic, so you can't keep upping it and expect it to linearly follow.
My main concern was that there was too much potassium that was antagonizing the calcium uptake.

Why Calcium Deficiency Might Start in Lower Leaves
  1. Calcium Mobility and Redistribution:
    • Calcium is generally considered immobile in plants, meaning it cannot be easily redistributed from older leaves to newer tissues. This is why symptoms typically show in young leaves or growing tips first.
    • However, if the older, larger leaves are affected first, it may indicate:
      • Secondary deficiencies: Competition from excessive potassium, magnesium, or ammonium that inhibits calcium uptake.
      • Localized calcium transport issues: Poor water movement in specific parts of the plant (e.g., due to low transpiration or poor circulation in dense canopies).
      • Physical damage or buildup of stress (e.g., salinity stress) in older leaves that prevents efficient nutrient flow.
  2. Possible Causes:
    • Root health issues: Damaged or unhealthy roots may fail to distribute nutrients properly, leading to symptoms in older leaves first.
    • Transpiration imbalance: If the growing tips are not actively transpiring (e.g., due to low light or humidity issues), calcium may accumulate elsewhere, resulting in deficiency symptoms in older leaves.
    • Nutrient antagonism: Excess potassium (K⁺), magnesium (Mg²⁺), or ammonium (NH₄⁺) can competitively inhibit calcium uptake and result in deficiencies that might first manifest in stressed lower leaves.


Also disregard my idea for dropping the grow, it contains most of the Mg in the program,
though you are using the calmg product.
Yeah dont worry, no need to go so deep, one can manage with much less.
 
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OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
The cheapest and easiest route for sterility is using regular unscented bleach(sodium hypochlorite). The Sodium part is minute compared to the hypochlorite side of the molecule and at application rates it's not even detectable. You may even argue that the small amount of sodium better metabolism and uptake of water.

Hypochlorite becomes hypochlorous acid when being dissolved in water. People argue that Calcium hypochlorite is better but it's always more crude in practical use with more sodium chloride than any bleach intended for cleaning floors and surfaces.

I've used it for decades at this point using a dilution calculator like this:
http://foodsafe.ca/dilution-calculator.html

0.5-1ppm is recommended for Aero.
When running bleach, do you ever check for Free Chlorine in the nutrient solution or just go by a calculated addition? ✌
 

endorflight

Member
What is the % of hypochlorous acid on the product you are using?
Looked again, the only info on the bottle is "In 100g are contained 0.1g active chlorine, freed up from hypochlorous acid" (translated).

Salt is a no go. I have a Hypochlorous generator and have tried it. You will fry your plants from the excess sodium.
They are recommending Potassium Chloride be used for agricultural applications rather than Sodium Chloride (Table Salt)
I am going to start a post on this topic soon! ✌
Very interesting topic, im in.
 

endorflight

Member
@Wastei, @cage I hope you are still with me.

What happend the last weeks:
I had dropped the CalMag and did not added mono Cal. The suspected calcium deficiency completely went away. I then had some weeks without any problems. Light intensity now is around 1000 PPFD. 1400 PPFD at the highest most centered tops. 700 PPFD at the lowest most outer tops.

New problems:
This round i had a long veg time to get dailed in first. What turned out as a problem is that the root system is now extremely big and some areas are not beeing fully sprayed anymore. The carpet on the bottom is now 10-15cm high. Due to that some areas started to dry out a bit. Iam not sure how to conclude regarding that. Did i let them too long in veg and they are now too big for my system or did i force them to build a massive root system due to underwatering/underfeeding?

My measurings showed that there was no drain/return back from the water i sprayed. I used that as indicator that they need more. Initially it was around 2L during lights on with 2 sec spray time. Until now i have gradually increased to around 5,5L with 6 sec spray time, which they still seem to use up completely. The nightly consumption is much lower like 1,5L the last days.

Iam now at end of 5th flower week. The strain needs around 10 weeks. I had started to give them PK booster starting with only very little. I then observed new signs on the plants that i mapped to PK deficiencies.
- Slight burn on the edges of leaves and tips. Affected middle and lower leaves
- Purple petioles
- Slightly blueish color on middle and lower leaves

I then increased PK gradually to the full dosage. The last days i started seeing the sides of leaves curling up a little which on the common "defiecienies and excess" chart is a sign of excess of most nutrients. Also i started to see some rust spots on the middle of the leaves again.

I kept the EC at around 1-1.1 all the time. Maybe a mistake lowering all other nutrients too much?

Today i also see that the PH is drifting a bit lower instead of higher. I took root pictures and see some browning that appears to be more than the dry spots now. Could be that i overwatered again (despite they used all the water)? I was leaning more to unterwatering what i though caused the deficiencies. Or did i burn them again, iam almost convinced that in the past it was too high EC causing the browning.

The root zone temps are very stable with 19 degree celsius at day and down to 15 degree celsius at night.

I did a flush today with a higher HOCL dose. Now iam leaning to mix a new rez with reduced PK.
 

Attachments

cage

Well-Known Member
@Wastei, @cage I hope you are still with me.

What happend the last weeks:
I had dropped the CalMag and did not added mono Cal. The suspected calcium deficiency completely went away. I then had some weeks without any problems. Light intensity now is around 1000 PPFD. 1400 PPFD at the highest most centered tops. 700 PPFD at the lowest most outer tops.

New problems:
This round i had a long veg time to get dailed in first. What turned out as a problem is that the root system is now extremely big and some areas are not beeing fully sprayed anymore. The carpet on the bottom is now 10-15cm high. Due to that some areas started to dry out a bit. Iam not sure how to conclude regarding that. Did i let them too long in veg and they are now too big for my system or did i force them to build a massive root system due to underwatering/underfeeding?

My measurings showed that there was no drain/return back from the water i sprayed. I used that as indicator that they need more. Initially it was around 2L during lights on with 2 sec spray time. Until now i have gradually increased to around 5,5L with 6 sec spray time, which they still seem to use up completely. The nightly consumption is much lower like 1,5L the last days.

Iam now at end of 5th flower week. The strain needs around 10 weeks. I had started to give them PK booster starting with only very little. I then observed new signs on the plants that i mapped to PK deficiencies.
- Slight burn on the edges of leaves and tips. Affected middle and lower leaves
- Purple petioles
- Slightly blueish color on middle and lower leaves

I then increased PK gradually to the full dosage. The last days i started seeing the sides of leaves curling up a little which on the common "defiecienies and excess" chart is a sign of excess of most nutrients. Also i started to see some rust spots on the middle of the leaves again.

I kept the EC at around 1-1.1 all the time. Maybe a mistake lowering all other nutrients too much?

Today i also see that the PH is drifting a bit lower instead of higher. I took root pictures and see some browning that appears to be more than the dry spots now. Could be that i overwatered again (despite they used all the water)? I was leaning more to unterwatering what i though caused the deficiencies. Or did i burn them again, iam almost convinced that in the past it was too high EC causing the browning.

The root zone temps are very stable with 19 degree celsius at day and down to 15 degree celsius at night.

I did a flush today with a higher HOCL dose. Now iam leaning to mix a new rez with reduced PK.
Hey, still lurking around.
As mentioned before I don't have experience on the high pressure systems, only in DWC/NFT as for water cultures.
So I'll help where I can.

At 5th week of flower she has demanded some extra P and rest of the way she likes more of a K heavy feed.
She is bit on the bluish color with the petioles being red, without signs of Mg deficiency.
So quite convinced she has lacked some P.

As for leaf margins, the way they are curling up is usually indication of low humidity/too much light.
Little inclined to call start of K deficiency too, considering the P deficiency also.

Few things to consider aswell,
the amount of light is at the very high end, especially without added co2 and maybe not optimal temps/humidities.
I'd say that 1000ppfd is the upper end you'd usually want to go to without extra co2.
Maybe aim for 1000ppfd for the most centered parts and try getting atleast 800 for the rest.
The symptoms could very well be from excess light aswell.

The nightly root temperatures are bit on the low end too.
Usually it's suggested not to go below 18celcius. Below that absorption of P gets a hit (could explain your P deficiency).

Don't focus on maximum light anymore, at this point you'll get the best quality and harvest from not stressing her
rather than trying to maximize light.

*edit As for the roots in general, as long as they stay in good humidity, temps and enough oxygen, they'll do great.
So too thick of a root mat, shouldn't be a problem in itself as long as it won't dry up or run out of oxygen.
 
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russ0r

The russ0r
I will add a lot of aero grows turn into dwc grows because of the spraying problem you are experiencing. Mine always did, so I moved to dwc. Its a good problem to have when the roots are that healthy and have that mass.
 

endorflight

Member
@cage Thanks for your input. Iam almost at flower week 6 of 10 now.

Thoughts on your points:
The VPD was set to 1.0 - 1.4 hovering mostly on the upper end. I think thats a good value for late flower. Overall the temperature and humidity where never out of range. I double checked that my sensors are still giving correct results.

The light was that intense before when they did not show any signs. So it was not like i increased it and then they started to show these signs. Also they did not grow significantly closer to the lights. Id say they where tolerating the amount of light well before. What speaks against the light intensity is that the right plant which is smaller and further from the light had the leafes with the curling up edges.

The nightly root temperature is low but as far as i know its still in range and the plants wont anyways take up much water/nutrients during the night. My data shows that they consume 50% less, more like 70% less, water in the night time.

Considering these things i could not map the problems to just low humidty or high light intensity.

What i did:
However to allow the plants some recovery with less extreme conditions, i reduced the VPD to 1.1, tilted the light for a more even distribution and reduced intensity to around 800 PPFD.

Also i dailed the water volume a bit back as i suspect the problems to be somehow related to overwatering/unterwatering or overfeeding/underfeeding. In the new reservoir i used 50% less PK booster, but still a good dose i think. I let the EC at 1.2 where before it was 1.0.

The day after my last message i noticed a heavy PH drop of around 0.5 during 24h reaching as low as 5.2 PH. I realized that it was maybe too low for a good PK uptake. For the next two days i adjusted the PH heavily. As the PH had such a strong downtrend, i then did a big flush with a high HOCL dose again and adjusted the PH to 6.1. Over the last two days the PH remained very stable again and gone done only to 6.0. So the flush must have done something.

How it looks now:
Unfortunately the symptoms worsened a bit, interestingly they are a bit different for both plants.

Burned leaf sides and tips: Both plants are showing these symptoms. The burn is significant on the leaf sides, also on the tips but not like a simple tip burn due to too high EC.

Curled up leaf sides: Only the smaller plant on the right is showing these symptoms. Meanwhile also the tips curl a little bit up. Affected are top and middle leafes.

Rust spots on the leaf veins: The larger plant on the left is now showing significant rust spots. They are not sprinkeld as much like for a Cal deficiency and occur more near the leaf veins. I think this could be PH releated however the PH the last days was very stable again while the symptoms increased and also it was never out of range big time. Lowest point was 5.2 for one day, maybe 5.5 for a week until i realized im in downtrend now instead of uptrend.

Twisted leafes: The larger plant on the left also has some twisted sugar leafs at the tops. Also the tops look kind of flat headed.

Purple petioles: Both plant have very purple petioles.
 

Attachments

cage

Well-Known Member
The yellowing in the leaf veins has me quite confused and can't really point a finger on the problem.

The symptoms might be a bit over the place, if in lights on they are getting somewhat all the nutes they need.
But if during night time they can't absorb the amounts they need.

The nightly root temperatures is what I suspect the most at the moment,
low temps inhibit the nutrient absorptions and the metabolism of the roots goes down too.
-> I'm thinking this might be the reason for some of the deficiencies.
Also consider it like this: If the plant is lacking some nute (like P/K),
it won't look as perky and might suffer a bit if it gets alot of light and is driven hard.
Potassium has alot of functions ranging from osmoregulation and water balance to several other functions.
So I'd say good chance that some of the leaf symptoms, like the edges curling are from lack of K.

As for pH drift, good call giving a HOCL treatment if the pH start dropping the way it shouldn't.
Usually I have upward trend in pH for early flower and later in flower in starts dropping steadily.
(Plant takes less NO3-, more of the K+, thus changing the cation/anion balance a little.)

Below query for ChatGPT considering the nightly root temps:

***********************************************
Yes, **15°C (59°F) root temperatures during lights off** can cause issues, especially in hydroponic setups like **DWC or bubblers**, where roots are fully submerged and more sensitive to temperature fluctuations. Potential problems include:

### **1. Slowed Nutrient Uptake & Growth**
- Below **18°C (64°F)**, root metabolism slows significantly, affecting the plant's ability to uptake nutrients.
- This could lead to deficiencies (even if nutrients are available), possibly contributing to the **yellowing veins** you mentioned.

### **2. Increased Risk of Phosphorus Deficiency**
- P is less mobile in cold roots, and deficiency often shows as purpling stems or stunted growth.
- If veins are yellowing without interveinal chlorosis, impaired **P or micronutrient uptake** due to low temps might be a factor.

### **3. Oxygenation Benefits (but only to a Point)**
- Cooler water **holds more oxygen**, which is good for root health.
- However, below **16°C (60°F)**, root activity declines so much that oxygen benefits are outweighed by slow growth.

### **4. Increased Susceptibility to Pathogens**
- While **Pythium (root rot)** thrives in warm water (>22°C), some cold-tolerant pathogens can still develop in low temps.
- Sluggish root metabolism at 15°C makes plants more vulnerable to stress and infections.

---

### **Solutions if 15°C is a Problem**
- Try **keeping roots above 18°C** at night, ideally 18–20°C for steady growth.
- Insulate the reservoir/tote if it's losing heat too quickly.
- If using an inline fan near the grow, check if it's overcooling the root zone at night.
- **Aquarium heaters** can help, but make sure they don’t overshoot past 22°C.

If your plants seem otherwise healthy, 15°C might not be a huge issue, but if you're seeing **yellowing veins or slowed growth**, root temp fluctuations could be playing a role.

**** EDIT
Spent few more minutes on it.
There is the bit bluish color on the lower leaves aswell, bit hard always to tell from pictures.
But considering your conditions and the look of it I still very much suspect the nightly low root temps.
Also are you taking the night time temp from air sensor?
Evaporation drops the temp even more, so the actual root temp could be even lower?
IR gun is handy for leafs temp and in aero might be handy for roots temps :)

Just that it is periodically probably getting proper nutrients and periodically lacking some,
making the symptoms seem a bit weird.
Cheated few more ideas from chatgpt:

Night-Time Inhibition Effects
  • Delayed or Interrupted Uptake:
    During lights off, the plant’s root metabolism slows considerably at temperatures around 15–16°C. This means that even if phosphorus is available in the medium, its uptake is reduced, leading to an effective “on-off” nutrient schedule.
  • Morning Symptom Exacerbation:
    The deficiencies may become more pronounced in the morning when the cumulative effect of poor nighttime absorption manifests as visible discoloration or spotting—often along the veins, where nutrient transport is most active.
Direct Symptoms of P Deficiency
  • Leaf Discoloration:
    Beyond the orange spotting on the veins, a phosphorus deficiency commonly results in purpling of the lower leaves as the plant accumulates anthocyanins—a response to stress.
  • Stunted Growth and Reduced Bud Development:
    Since phosphorus is crucial for energy transfer and metabolic functions (ATP production), a deficiency can lead to overall sluggish growth, delayed flowering, and smaller or less dense buds.
Secondary Deficiencies Induced by P Deficiency
  • Micronutrient Uptake Issues:
    Phosphorus plays a key role in the overall health and metabolic efficiency of the plant. When it’s lacking, the compromised energy production can disrupt the uptake of other nutrients:
    • Magnesium (Mg) and Calcium (Ca):
      Even if present in adequate amounts, the transport and utilization of these nutrients may be impaired. This can sometimes lead to interveinal chlorosis or necrotic spotting—though typically with different patterns than what’s observed with P issues.
    • Zinc (Zn) and Iron (Fe):
      These micronutrients are often sensitive to overall root health. A stressed root system, struggling with low P uptake, might also underperform in acquiring Zn or Fe, potentially compounding stress symptoms.
  • Overall Metabolic Slowdown:
    Reduced phosphorus levels lower ATP production. This means energy-intensive processes, including the transport and assimilation of other nutrients (such as nitrogen), can suffer, leading to a broader spectrum of deficiency signs even if those nutrients are technically available.
 

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OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
I have never used Advanced products but had a discussion with one of their tech guys as I have been curious about the line for some time.
We were talking more Connoisseur vs Sensi and the suggestion was that too low of a dose contributes too little of the ph buffering chemistry to the solution.
After discussing things I didn't feel confident enough to put any of their products in my water based clean system. Tech was steering me toward the Cultivator series powder for water culture.
It seems like you have made every logical adjustment - maybe try a different brand base? ✌
 

endorflight

Member
The root temperature readings come from a DS18B20 water proof temperature sensor that is hanging in the upper quarter of the root chamber. These sensors while not the most accurate have been proven for me as very reliable. For air temp+humidity i use an SHT45 which is very precise. For the humidity readings iam super picky since most sensors are crap but a decent reading is key for VPD control.

Good idea with the IR gun. I have a high quality IR gun (VOLTCRAFT IR 1201-50D USB IR-THERMOMETER) for leaf temperature readings.

I did a reading right now and the difference to the DS18B20 is around 0.5 degree celsius so i assume my root temperature data is pretty accurate.

I queried the min root temperatures of the last 60 days, suprisingly (time to get some charts) they went down even to 12 degree celsius. However that was before the recent problems appeared.

Code:
"date","min_temp"
"2024-12-30","14.7500"
"2024-12-31","14.8120"
"2025-01-01","14.8750"
"2025-01-02","14.8120"
"2025-01-03","14.5620"
"2025-01-04","14.4370"
"2025-01-05","14.1250"
"2025-01-06","16.2500"
"2025-01-07","14.8750"
"2025-01-08","15.6870"
"2025-01-09","14.1870"
"2025-01-10","14.3750"
"2025-01-11","14.1870"
"2025-01-12","13.8750"
"2025-01-13","13.0620"
"2025-01-14","12.7500"
"2025-01-15","13.5000"
"2025-01-16","12.9370"
"2025-01-17","13.0000"
"2025-01-18","16.6870"
"2025-01-19","16.3120"
"2025-01-20","16.1870"
"2025-01-21","15.9370"
"2025-01-22","16.0000"
"2025-01-23","16.0620"
"2025-01-24","16.0000"
"2025-01-25","16.4370"
"2025-01-26","16.1250"
"2025-01-27","16.0620"
"2025-01-28","16.0000"
"2025-01-29","16.0620"
"2025-01-30","16.0000"
"2025-01-31","15.8120"
"2025-02-01","15.8120"
"2025-02-02","15.8750"
"2025-02-03","15.5620"
"2025-02-04","15.4370"
"2025-02-05","15.4370"
"2025-02-06","15.1250"
"2025-02-07","14.8750"
"2025-02-08","14.7500"
"2025-02-09","15.0620"
"2025-02-10","15.1250"
"2025-02-11","15.0000"
"2025-02-12","15.1250"
"2025-02-13","14.8750"
"2025-02-14","14.9370"
"2025-02-15","14.8750"
"2025-02-16","14.8750"
"2025-02-17","14.7500"
"2025-02-18","14.6870"
"2025-02-19","14.6870"
"2025-02-20","14.7500"
"2025-02-21","15.5620"
"2025-02-22","15.4370"
"2025-02-23","15.2500"
"2025-02-24","15.3120"
"2025-02-25","15.4370"
"2025-02-26","15.0000"
"2025-02-27","15.2500"
"2025-02-28","16.0000"
While i totally get the points i have a hard time to believe its caused by the low nightly root temperatures. At daytime they are around 19 degree celsius. With the day air temps around 24-25 degree celsius. Night air temp is around 19 degree celisus. Iam happy to have achieved a real difference between root and plant temp as i expect that to cause a good transportation in the plants. This is a winter grow, in the summer i had a hard time to get such a difference. Technically i only achieve that difference because i use air heating, everything stays cool but the air. (Maybe the problem lies here?)

However what adds to the low night root temp problematic could be the low water intake during night. Last night it was 1.6L of 3.6L offered. Today during day time they used all of the 3.6L. Temporary i had delivered even more but thats outside my measuring range as i only have calibrated the flow data up to spray times of 5 seconds. Max i gave was 7-8 seconds. I cannot rule out underwatering but i fear the overwatering very much.

The PH is still stable rock solid at 6.0 now even while the rez has only 20L left since its replace time tomorrow.

The EC is drifting a bit up so i have to assume iam not underfeeding. Yesterday morning it was at 1.3, i topped up a bit down to 1.2. Over totday it went back up to 1.3. Previously it stayed rock solid at 1.0-1.1 perfectly in sync with the water consumption.

Ill post a recap of the last things that happened before i saw the first signs of the recents problems soon.
 

endorflight

Member
Thanks to anyone joining and contributing!

I will add a lot of aero grows turn into dwc grows because of the spraying problem you are experiencing. Mine always did, so I moved to dwc. Its a good problem to have when the roots are that healthy and have that mass.
Iam using a relatively large root chamber of 90L for two plants to give enough space. The problem this grow is that i let them as long in veg time until i had resolved the initial calcium issue. That was 7 week of veg time. Far too long. I learned for aero 1 week of veg time is enough. The other thing is, that i might have forced the root system so big due too underwatering/underfeeding. Last grow it was far smaller.

I appreaciate your input but moving to DWC is not an option, also i already did a DWC grow in the past. I wont give up here. This is the second aero run and even the first one (against all odds) yielded some decent bud. This one will be much better. Iam really about to go down this road wherever it leads. Aero has quite a lot of advantages over DWC.

It seems like you have made every logical adjustment - maybe try a different brand base?
Iam back to the Grow Micro Bloom line this run. The rez water is perfectly clear, no problem at all since i moved back to it. However the conisseur line is soo full of additional stuff (I think origanic stuff) that i cannot recommend it for Hydro. However iam using the remains of it for some Chillies grown in EazyBlockz right now and they are going absolutely stellar :-) They say it clearly "conisseur is not for everyone" and i have to admit it wasent for me. The Sensi i have no experience with. The only other stuff i use is the Rhino Skin (silica) and the different PK boosters one at time (Bud Ignitor, Big Bud, Overdrive). Iam not a fan, their support cant help on HPA at all, its expensive but not a bad line or something. The PH Perfect also does wonders for me even on 50% strength. I might migrate to cheaper alternatives in the future but it kind of works right now. I dont think its the nutes.
 

endorflight

Member
Iam baffled. Here is a snapshot from right now. The EC has somehow increased from 1300 to 1400 in only 3 hours after lights off.

Air Temperature: 19.7°C
Water Temperature: 19.1°C
Root Temperature: 15.6°C
Outdoor Temperature: 5.6°C
PH1: 5.9pH
PH2: 6pH
EC1: 1426µS/cm
EC2: 1428µS/cm
Water Distance: 187mm
SHT45 Temperature: 19.8°C
SHT45 Humidity: 41.9%
VPD Air: 1.34kPa
VPD Leaf: 1.07kPa
Water Remaining: 19.5l
Salt Remaining: 27.9g
Water Given 12h: 3.7l
Salt Given 12h: 4.9g
Water Used 12h: 3.1l
Salt Used 12h: 1.6g

Could it be we have some kind of reverse osmosis or alike here? Also why the heck is the root temp so low despite water and air temperature are higher.
 
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cage

Well-Known Member
While i totally get the points i have a hard time to believe its caused by the low nightly root temperatures. At daytime they are around 19 degree celsius. With the day air temps around 24-25 degree celsius. Night air temp is around 19 degree celisus. Iam happy to have achieved a real difference between root and plant temp as i expect that to cause a good transportation in the plants. This is a winter grow, in the summer i had a hard time to get such a difference. Technically i only achieve that difference because i use air heating, everything stays cool but the air. (Maybe the problem lies here?)

However what adds to the low night root temp problematic could be the low water intake during night. Last night it was 1.6L of 3.6L offered. Today during day time they used all of the 3.6L. Temporary i had delivered even more but thats outside my measuring range as i only have calibrated the flow data up to spray times of 5 seconds. Max i gave was 7-8 seconds. I cannot rule out underwatering but i fear the overwatering very much.

The PH is still stable rock solid at 6.0 now even while the rez has only 20L left since its replace time tomorrow.

The EC is drifting a bit up so i have to assume iam not underfeeding. Yesterday morning it was at 1.3, i topped up a bit down to 1.2. Over totday it went back up to 1.3. Previously it stayed rock solid at 1.0-1.1 perfectly in sync with the water consumption.

Ill post a recap of the last things that happened before i saw the first signs of the recents problems soon.
As for the nightly water consumption, it's obviously gonna be lower than day because of the extra temps and transpiration.
While some of the nutes move better with water, other have more of a active uptake.

It's easier to compare EC/pH levels at same times, since they drift bit different directions during night and day.

The transpiration drops the temperature quite a bit if there is plenty of it.
You will see the same result with your leaves, top leaves are way cooler than ambient air.
Which is why I thought you might have even lower root temps that you have registered.

Any easy methods you could try upping your root temps a bit?
Maybe use some styrofoam around the container or heat from power supplies?

But yeah, I don't have much else to suggest than the root temps
 
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endorflight

Member
Snapshot from this morning 2.5 hours after lights on:

Air Temperature: 21.1°C
Water Temperature: 19°C
Root Temperature: 17.5°C
Outdoor Temperature: 5.9°C
PH1: 6pH
PH2: 6pH
EC1: 1527µS/cm
EC2: 1531µS/cm
Water Distance: 193mm
SHT45 Temperature: 22.8°C
SHT45 Humidity: 41.6%
VPD Air: 1.62kPa
VPD Leaf: 1.3kPa
Water Remaining: 18l
Salt Remaining: 27.5g
Water Given 12h: 3.7l
Salt Given 12h: 5.5g
Water Used 12h: 1.5l
Salt Used 12h: -0.2g

I try to look at day and night differently but my abilities so far are limited. I just look at the data from the last 12 hours closely after day and night periods.

Night temperature problem:
Interesting, even 2.5 hours after lights on, the root temp is still at 17.5, maybe it adds to the night temps problem that they need too long to get warm while the light and day temp/humidity are already firing. As for the heat i can set the min night air temperature higher. Its currently set to 19 degree celsius. Also ill try to install a heat mat below the root chamber today. Ill definitively try to increase night root temperatures at this point. Not knowing how big the problem is, but 12 degree celsius is obviously far too low.

Feeding problem:
Again we see a increase of EC by 0.1. Still 1.5l water consumption nightly. Rez water level is at absolute minimum with 18L. Looking at the two snapshots they consumed only very little of the offered salts. Yesterday: 1.6g/4.9g. The consumption was higher lately. I have to mix a new rez today and i tend to go down to 1.0 EC.

If i spray 2sec at 1.0 EC initially and now 5sec at 1.0 EC i deliver 2.5x the salts just by spraying more. In a situation of high transpiration i could imagine that i have to lower the EC even though the plants are bigger. Roughly id say, for some weeks now, the data indicates they are using water heavily but not the salts so much.
 

cage

Well-Known Member
Feeding problem:
Again we see a increase of EC by 0.1. Still 1.5l water consumption nightly. Rez water level is at absolute minimum with 18L. Looking at the two snapshots they consumed only very little of the offered salts. Yesterday: 1.6g/4.9g. The consumption was higher lately. I have to mix a new rez today and i tend to go down to 1.0 EC.

If i spray 2sec at 1.0 EC initially and now 5sec at 1.0 EC i deliver 2.5x the salts just by spraying more. In a situation of high transpiration i could imagine that i have to lower the EC even though the plants are bigger. Roughly id say, for some weeks now, the data indicates they are using water heavily but not the salts so much.
Few things comes to mind as for the feeding.
You had like 90liters res?
When you go very low on res or after topping the res few times,
your nutrient ratios might not be anywhere near you put them in as.
Depending on the feed given there might be some nutrients accumulating and some running low.
So then the plant might struggle to get all it needs, because of the antagonisms and just not having enough certain nutrients.
Also I think it's common to nutrient demand to drop a little from the most active growth phase.

As for the night temperature, yeah definatly little low to cause something minor atleast.
Bit less nutes, bit slower metabolism, so might not handle the amount of light etc
 

endorflight

Member
Thanks for putting light on every vector!

The 90L is for the aero root chamber, it contains only the roots with a drain back to the rez.

The rez is 70L but i fill it only to 45L regulary, at the current consumption that lasts for one week. I always replace the rez once a week to adress the imbalances problem. Until the last two weeks i did not top the rez as the EC was very stable. Around 18L is the absolute minimum water line since below that the rez becomes asymetric due to the chiller tubing etc., so below that i cannot get a reliable water distance/water volume measuring. Iam doing that measuring with an ultra sonic distance sensor. My water volume measurings theoretically have a precision of 250ml. That measuring is key for some of my advanced metrics that should allow an independent view on water and salt consumption.

With DTW (i guess you remember i did it the second half of last grow) i could also elimanate the imbalances problem, but DTW would require double the hardware 2x PH, 2x EC, 2x Distance and even than the DTW measurings would be completely different. It would be far more complex, risiky and i atm dont really see how a DTW runoff analysis would yield good data. I think its to harsh, to shortly timed, too little quantity. The change over a period of one or more days, id say tells more than a single pass of the water. Also it would not work the same with the excess fog. Currently iam pulling excess fog out with a fan and defog it in the rez (That mechanism also draws the extra oxygen into the areo chamber). DTW would as of now only be a thing again for me if i decide i need bigger root containers that would add too much height to the system. Sadly iam limited to a small number of plants and that limits my ability to really pull the advantages of aero, with many small plants and super short veg time.
 

endorflight

Member
To deal with the question "do i give enough water", i read for other irrigation systems that 10% runoff is a good rule. Do you think its a good strategy in general to increase the watering so that i always match around 10% runoff? Thats what i tried to do.

And in conjunction with that how should i handle the salts, assuming that my salt data given/used is reliable, is it a good idea to also give 10% more or maybe give exactly as much as they consume?

I feel more and more confident that with the increase of watering from 2sec to 5sec and temporary even to 7-8sec, i overwatered/ still underwatered and maybe grossly overfeed, maybe especially during night as i have no automatic reduction of nightly spray times.

Here is my spray volume / flow calibration data. Only up to 5 sec but calculating for higher values should still give a good estimate. Keep in mind its two plants sharing that water. Roughly i can say they did use up all of the water up to 7sec during day time. For the salts i did not keep an eye. When i increased for the first time thats roughly when the problems started to appear.

The trigger was that i paniced when i saw parts of the roots drying out (due to the root system becoming so big that it blocks out certain areas). Also at that moment i did the first of two HOCL flushes, these i also consider as maybe problematic. Also at that time i had increased the PK booster from 25% initially (all was good then) to 50% and then to 100%, when i saw the possible PK deficiency signs like the purple petioles.

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