Water cooling leds

ttystikk

Well-Known Member

Induction brazing. Check it out! One of the tricks I might have up my sleeve If I try making the DIY coolant rails. :wink:

Almost done with building a 1000w 48v liquid cooled ZVS induction coil. Not only could I melt down some aluminum scraps in a mini crucible, and cast my own little square end plugs (with a tight interference fit) for capping off the 3/4' square tube rails... but also use it to heat up the parts more equally than any other method, and get perfect water tight solder joints within seconds. Without any welding, torching, or grinding on it.. Just zap it together with high frequency pulces. Then tap out the center hole the rest of the way on the end plugs, and screw in whatever compression or hose barb fitting on each end for the tubing to connect the loop..
I want to hear more about this!
 

1212ham

Well-Known Member

Induction brazing. Check it out! One of the tricks I might have up my sleeve If I try making the DIY coolant rails. :wink:

Almost done with building a 1000w 48v liquid cooled ZVS induction coil. Not only could I melt down some aluminum scraps in a mini crucible, and cast my own little square end plugs (with a tight interference fit) for capping off the 3/4' square tube rails... but also use it to heat up the parts more equally than any other method, and get perfect water tight solder joints within seconds. Without any welding, torching, or grinding on it.. Just zap it together with high frequency pulces. Then tap out the center hole the rest of the way on the end plugs, and screw in whatever compression or hose barb fitting on each end for the tubing to connect the loop..
The rods I tried years ago were probably junk. Not sure, but I don't remember any flux.
Anyway, I did remember and searched for lucasmilhaupt.com, decades ago I requisitioned $5000 of their mil spec silver solder. Their aluminum rods are flux core and they make mil spec products, links below.

Brazing would allow the elimination of almost all fittings and hoses. Plug the tubes, lay a manifold tube across the ends of the cooling tubes and braze together. Small corresponding holes for coolant passage. It would about be the same as my light except for brazed lap joints rather than welded butt joints. I use a 6mm pump and silicone hose, super flexible and it easily cools 250 watts.
 
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Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
I like the manifold idea, and using another tube on each end instead of a bunch of extra tubing and fittings. I would only worry about making sure there is an equal amount of flow through each bar. Going corner to corner like this should work good!

1735426860075.png
 

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
1735427637837.png

Found another good deal on square tubing. Under $3 per tube ;)

^ These are 44"L, but have pre-drilled holes on each end. They could be cut off right at the holes, leaving you with what I estimate to be a 42" bar, according to the pics. They're only 1/2" too, which is the same width as the BXEB Gen 3 slim LED modules I want to get. I was thinking I could probably make little 1/2" square c-clips of some sort, to snap on around the tubes and hold the strips! Put them anywhere there are joints/seams between 2 connected modules, or wherever the existing screw slots on the sides are, etc.. I could maybe even 3d print a bunch of plastic clips with higher temp ABS..

I couldn't really find anything that long with the other 3/4" balusters I linked earlier, which were all like 36" or under without holes anyway. They are still a good deal for smaller fixtures, and up to 18mm wide LED modules.

These are too short to use the longer 1190 bxeb modules I really want, but 3 of the smaller 340mm L modules together will fit the 42" bars..
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
View attachment 5447610

Found another good deal on square tubing. Under $3 per tube ;)

^ These are 44"L, but have pre-drilled holes on each end. They could be cut off right at the holes, leaving you with what I estimate to be a 42" bar, according to the pics. They're only 1/2" too, which is the same width as the BXEB Gen 3 slim LED modules I want to get. I was thinking I could probably make little 1/2" square c-clips of some sort, to snap on around the tubes and hold the strips! Put them anywhere there are joints/seams between 2 connected modules, or wherever the existing screw slots on the sides are, etc.. I could maybe even 3d print a bunch of plastic clips with higher temp ABS..

I couldn't really find anything that long with the other 3/4" balusters I linked earlier, which were all like 36" or under without holes anyway. They are still a good deal for smaller fixtures, and up to 18mm wide LED modules.

These are too short to use the longer 1190 bxeb modules I really want, but 3 of the smaller 340mm L modules together will fit the 42" bars..
These are a good length to cover a 4' run.
 

Jonesfamily7715

Well-Known Member
"Magnetic metals" so this does not include aluminum?
Very slowly, when compared to ferrous metals, I have access to a lot of different metals and tested quite a few. Non magnetic stainless like 304 or 316 takes forever as well.Being a magnetic stainless I used 17-4 stainless for my Induction vape works very well compared to these titanium you see brands making, as titanium has a weak magnetic pull kinda like most stainless. I bet the solder in that video has something in it to help with heating because the aluminum takes to long.
 

1212ham

Well-Known Member
I like the manifold idea, and using another tube on each end instead of a bunch of extra tubing and fittings. I would only worry about making sure there is an equal amount of flow through each bar. Going corner to corner like this should work good!

View attachment 5447609
Yes, it works well.
1735503957774.jpeg

"I was thinking I could probably make little 1/2" square c-clips of some sort, to snap on around the tubes and hold the strips! "

I like the KISS rule of engineering, so I just used zip ties. This is an old picture and the BXEB Gen2's have been replaced by Grow Lights Australia strips.
Those were strapped on with 18ga. wire, I guess I went all-in with KISS. :lol:
1735504699799.jpeg
 
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Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
Induction tech has so many cool uses! You can anneal copper shell casings, heat up stubborn bolts for extraction, magically solder/braze/weld pipes or fittings like a pro, melt locks, cook dinners using special induction grade cookware and pots, forge metals, sterilize lab tools, heat up dab oil tooters, build induction home heating systems, & the lists goes on...

:hump:
 

Jonesfamily7715

Well-Known Member
Induction tech has so many cool uses! You can anneal copper shell casings, heat up stubborn bolts for extraction, magically solder/braze/weld pipes or fittings like a pro, melt locks, cook dinners using special induction grade cookware and pots, forge metals, sterilize lab tools, heat up dab oil tooters, build induction home heating systems, & the lists goes on...

:hump:
Yeah I seen a video dude made one with a battery pack got a mobile lock melter, keys to the city lol
 

Jonesfamily7715

Well-Known Member
Yes, it works well.
View attachment 5447760

"I was thinking I could probably make little 1/2" square c-clips of some sort, to snap on around the tubes and hold the strips! "

I like the KISS rule of engineering, so I just used zip ties. This is an old picture and the BXEB Gen2's have been replaced by Grow Lights Australia strips.
Those were strapped on with 18ga. wire, I guess I went all-in with KISS. :lol:
View attachment 5447762
How are the gla strips preforming under these conditions?
 

1212ham

Well-Known Member
How are the gla strips preforming under these conditions?
Conditions? If you are referring to the mounting, it has excellent heat transfer, better than expected. Air temps were getting high so I simply tied the GLA light to my old water cooled frame. I'd say the GLA perform better than the guy using them. I turned up the light too far, too fast, overlooked EC level and caused a serious deficiency. :wall:
She was looking rough but made it to harvest, curing now.

1735604283992.jpeg
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Conditions? If you are referring to the mounting, it has excellent heat transfer, better than expected. Air temps were getting high so I simply tied the GLA light to my old water cooled frame. I'd say the GLA perform better than the guy using them. I turned up the light too far, too fast, overlooked EC level and caused a serious deficiency. :wall:
She was looking rough but made it to harvest, curing now.

View attachment 5447994
Cooler LED lights are more efficient, too. Water cooling can be a way to increase umol/Watt in your garden.
 

Jonesfamily7715

Well-Known Member
Cooler LED lights are more efficient, too. Water cooling can be a way to increase umol/Watt in your garden.
Absolutely, most of the high power diodes and cobs are binned at 85° c where mid powers are binned at 25°. Gotta pile of cobs ready to play with lol. I just realized how much smaller the cmu2287 cobs are compared to cxb3590 each cob was $3.15 or less still got em on arrow I think.

20241230_184210.jpg
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Absolutely, most of the high power diodes and cobs are binned at 85° c where mid powers are binned at 25°. Gotta pile of cobs ready to play with lol. I just realized how much smaller the cmu2287 cobs are compared to cxb3590 each cob was $3.15 or less still got em on arrow I think.

View attachment 5447995
All of my Cree CXB3590 chips were binned at 25 C/77 F. That's where the efficiency numbers were taken, as well. Most people just shrug and accept the efficiency loss of running them as warm as 150 F on air cooled heat sinks but with water cooling, we can set that operating temperature wherever we want.

When I set mine at 60F I had... problems. LOL
 

Jonesfamily7715

Well-Known Member
I still see major potential for cobs but we have really cheap electricity in okc $.09 per kwh, I could see the appeal fading when that cost goes up. I don't really care about efficiency as much as bud quality, where I live bud is worthless unless you really knock it outta the park.
 
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