Water cooling leds

ttystikk

Well-Known Member

Induction brazing. Check it out! One of the tricks I might have up my sleeve If I try making the DIY coolant rails. :wink:

Almost done with building a 1000w 48v liquid cooled ZVS induction coil. Not only could I melt down some aluminum scraps in a mini crucible, and cast my own little square end plugs (with a tight interference fit) for capping off the 3/4' square tube rails... but also use it to heat up the parts more equally than any other method, and get perfect water tight solder joints within seconds. Without any welding, torching, or grinding on it.. Just zap it together with high frequency pulces. Then tap out the center hole the rest of the way on the end plugs, and screw in whatever compression or hose barb fitting on each end for the tubing to connect the loop..
I want to hear more about this!
 

1212ham

Well-Known Member

Induction brazing. Check it out! One of the tricks I might have up my sleeve If I try making the DIY coolant rails. :wink:

Almost done with building a 1000w 48v liquid cooled ZVS induction coil. Not only could I melt down some aluminum scraps in a mini crucible, and cast my own little square end plugs (with a tight interference fit) for capping off the 3/4' square tube rails... but also use it to heat up the parts more equally than any other method, and get perfect water tight solder joints within seconds. Without any welding, torching, or grinding on it.. Just zap it together with high frequency pulces. Then tap out the center hole the rest of the way on the end plugs, and screw in whatever compression or hose barb fitting on each end for the tubing to connect the loop..
The rods I tried years ago were probably junk. Not sure, but I don't remember any flux.
Anyway, I did remember and searched for lucasmilhaupt.com, decades ago I requisitioned $5000 of their mil spec silver solder. Their aluminum rods are flux core and they make mil spec products, links below.

Brazing would allow the elimination of almost all fittings and hoses. Plug the tubes, lay a manifold tube across the ends of the cooling tubes and braze together. Small corresponding holes for coolant passage. It would about be the same as my light except for brazed lap joints rather than welded butt joints. I use a 6mm pump and silicone hose, super flexible and it easily cools 250 watts.
 
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Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
I like the manifold idea, and using another tube on each end instead of a bunch of extra tubing and fittings. I would only worry about making sure there is an equal amount of flow through each bar. Going corner to corner like this should work good!

1735426860075.png
 

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
1735427637837.png

Found another good deal on square tubing. Under $3 per tube ;)

^ These are 44"L, but have pre-drilled holes on each end. They could be cut off right at the holes, leaving you with what I estimate to be a 42" bar, according to the pics. They're only 1/2" too, which is the same width as the BXEB Gen 3 slim LED modules I want to get. I was thinking I could probably make little 1/2" square c-clips of some sort, to snap on around the tubes and hold the strips! Put them anywhere there are joints/seams between 2 connected modules, or wherever the existing screw slots on the sides are, etc.. I could maybe even 3d print a bunch of plastic clips with higher temp ABS..

I couldn't really find anything that long with the other 3/4" balusters I linked earlier, which were all like 36" or under without holes anyway. They are still a good deal for smaller fixtures, and up to 18mm wide LED modules.

These are too short to use the longer 1190 bxeb modules I really want, but 3 of the smaller 340mm L modules together will fit the 42" bars..
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
View attachment 5447610

Found another good deal on square tubing. Under $3 per tube ;)

^ These are 44"L, but have pre-drilled holes on each end. They could be cut off right at the holes, leaving you with what I estimate to be a 42" bar, according to the pics. They're only 1/2" too, which is the same width as the BXEB Gen 3 slim LED modules I want to get. I was thinking I could probably make little 1/2" square c-clips of some sort, to snap on around the tubes and hold the strips! Put them anywhere there are joints/seams between 2 connected modules, or wherever the existing screw slots on the sides are, etc.. I could maybe even 3d print a bunch of plastic clips with higher temp ABS..

I couldn't really find anything that long with the other 3/4" balusters I linked earlier, which were all like 36" or under without holes anyway. They are still a good deal for smaller fixtures, and up to 18mm wide LED modules.

These are too short to use the longer 1190 bxeb modules I really want, but 3 of the smaller 340mm L modules together will fit the 42" bars..
These are a good length to cover a 4' run.
 
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