Mammoth mint white emerald green 880w

[tstick]

Already exists. Optic Slims and Borg Tarantula are making full dimmable and controller programmable spectrum lights

In fact, I have an Updayday light that does it, too. It's incredibly fun to have the option of multiple spectrums available. I just wish mine was made with higher quality parts....but, for a 500 watt light, multiple spectrums and everything else, it was definitely worth it for....FREE!

 

[Rocket Soul]

Already exists. Optic Slims and Borg Tarantula are making full dimmable and controller programmable spectrum lights

@tstick what do you mean all colors? Theres a bunch of them, some you may need some, others not. To me it makes more sense to construct dimable channels based on them trying to achieve something specific in the plant, like controlling blue response or far red for stretch, phtochrome switching

Bfdd: Having problems of finding info on both those lights and what channels they do or why. Optic has red blue channels i think and the borg has a veg and flower white and some red and far red.
To me both lights seems lacking in one point or another as a spectrumt tweaking platform. No UV (i think?) or even anything below 450nm peak. Veg/flower/far red feels a bit lacking but im glad they at least put far red on a separate channel. But still on all these lights were looking at one channel one diode; do we really know that this one diode targets what we want.
Another trick with these fully made spectrum lights is that they tend to have one driver with dimers for each channel, but theres no way of controlling the on off from a timer unless you buy the fancy controller. With separate drivers and ac mains connection you can do this yourself with some separate timers or even a cheap esp32.

Im still die hard diy til the day that i die and i think these kind of things you have to build yourself but you can atleast make it easy for yourself by starting out right; make it easy to add your own monos, whatever they may be, let the end use figure out what they want instead of forcing down a solution down their throat. But at least make it easy.
This is my take on spectrum tweaking for the pcbs ill be making for our grow:


White plus 3 different diodes for your base spectrum then build your own channels. Instead of expensive multilayer pcbs (this is the problem with getting spread of your channels right, you meed to be real spendy in fabrication) or adding 2 strips of uv between the base strips with effect of average to poor spread and being stuck with whatever your manufacturer wants to sell, just build what you want.

Just strap your own choice of diodes onto your strips, you can make as many (withing reason) as you like. These strips will take standard ledstar pcbs with the added value of if you have one broken diode you can replace it yourself. UV diodes will break before the rest of your lights normally which means that your light is not very future proof if you have your uv integrated into the pcb.

Yes, you have to solder them to power them but is that really such an effort? If youre prepared to spend 2 months to flower out a grow why not spend a minute or so per diode youd wanna use to solder them and get things right.
I accept that its daunting, it took me a lot of r
time to work up the courage to build with monos but it really isnt a big deal. By the end of the 50 diodes i put on the first light my solders were at least decent (though still not pretty like you see in provids) and i had acquired a new skill. It really isnt that hard and if you are afraid of wrecking your quality brand diodes just get a bunch from aliexpress to do training on. Theyre a $ or less.
You can even source 4up diodes custom, say you want a blue violet uv channel that imitates the blue end of the sun, getting lower and lower the further down the blue end of the spectrum you go. If youre patient and dedicated enough to grow crop after crop (thats 2 months per crop for some new smoke) for years and years, whats stopping you from literally spending a day on this to learn from zero to having a working system in a day, perfect to your own spec?
You may ask yourself but what diodes to get, which wavelength and brand? Brand depends on pockets, and which wavelength diode; well if you for any reason you get it wrong you can just try with new diodes, fully replaceable.

And if you really don't want to solder you can just get some with pushin connectors. It will raise the price a bit but its not going to break your pockets in comparison to 100$ supplementary strips which may or may not have what you want.

All im saying is theres options and with the price tag on some of these lights, hell if youre buying 4 of them you could just aswell get your own setup made to your own spec; the alibubbers are very keen to get your business nowdays, moq is not that big cause China manufacturing is not doing as well as they were a few years ago...

 

[BigFloppyDonkeyDick]

I ordered mine right before they upped the price and shipping time. Ordered on 1/16/24

That's why I didn't bite on preorder. I knew as soon as they started running the preorder out, they were gonna jack the price. They know that a lot of us are OCD and it would drive us crazy to run multiple types of lights therefore we order what we can afford in the preorder at the supposed retail price and then when it's time to upgrade the rest, they've raised the price. Dick move.

 

[BigFloppyDonkeyDick]

@tstick what do you mean all colors? Theres a bunch of them, some you may need some, others not. To me it makes more sense to construct dimable channels based on them trying to achieve something specific in the plant, like controlling blue response or far red for stretch, phtochrome switching

Bfdd: Having problems of finding info on both those lights and what channels they do or why. Optic has red blue channels i think and the borg has a veg and flower white and some red and far red.
To me both lights seems lacking in one point or another as a spectrumt tweaking platform. No UV (i think?) or even anything below 450nm peak. Veg/flower/far red feels a bit lacking but im glad they at least put far red on a separate channel. But still on all these lights were looking at one channel one diode; do we really know that this one diode targets what we want.
Another trick with these fully made spectrum lights is that they tend to have one driver with dimers for each channel, but theres no way of controlling the on off from a timer unless you buy the fancy controller. With separate drivers and ac mains connection you can do this yourself with some separate timers or even a cheap esp32.

Im still die hard diy til the day that i die and i think these kind of things you have to build yourself but you can atleast make it easy for yourself by starting out right; make it easy to add your own monos, whatever they may be, let the end use figure out what they want instead of forcing down a solution down their throat. But at least make it easy.
This is my take on spectrum tweaking for the pcbs ill be making for our grow:
View attachment 5432749

White plus 3 different diodes for your base spectrum then build your own channels. Instead of expensive multilayer pcbs (this is the problem with getting spread of your channels right, you meed to be real spendy in fabrication) or adding 2 strips of uv between the base strips with effect of average to poor spread and being stuck with whatever your manufacturer wants to sell, just build what you want.

Just strap your own choice of diodes onto your strips, you can make as many (withing reason) as you like. These strips will take standard ledstar pcbs with the added value of if you have one broken diode you can replace it yourself. UV diodes will break before the rest of your lights normally which means that your light is not very future proof if you have your uv integrated into the pcb.

Yes, you have to solder them to power them but is that really such an effort? If youre prepared to spend 2 months to flower out a grow why not spend a minute or so per diode youd wanna use to solder them and get things right.
I accept that its daunting, it took me a lot of r
time to work up the courage to build with monos but it really isnt a big deal. By the end of the 50 diodes i put on the first light my solders were at least decent (though still not pretty like you see in provids) and i had acquired a new skill. It really isnt that hard and if you are afraid of wrecking your quality brand diodes just get a bunch from aliexpress to do training on. Theyre a $ or less.
You can even source 4up diodes custom, say you want a blue violet uv channel that imitates the blue end of the sun, getting lower and lower the further down the blue end of the spectrum you go. If youre patient and dedicated enough to grow crop after crop (thats 2 months per crop for some new smoke) for years and years, whats stopping you from literally spending a day on this to learn from zero to having a working system in a day, perfect to your own spec?
You may ask yourself but what diodes to get, which wavelength and brand? Brand depends on pockets, and which wavelength diode; well if you for any reason you get it wrong you can just try with new diodes, fully replaceable.

And if you really don't want to solder you can just get some with pushin connectors. It will raise the price a bit but its not going to break your pockets in comparison to 100$ supplementary strips which may or may not have what you want.

All im saying is theres options and with the price tag on some of these lights, hell if youre buying 4 of them you could just aswell get your own setup made to your own spec; the alibubbers are very keen to get your business nowdays, moq is not that big cause China manufacturing is not doing as well as they were a few years ago...

I would LOVE to build my own vertical style lights but I have no idea where to get standalone diodes, (just the chips, not the mounted turds that rapid LED sells at an inflated price) nor do I have any idea where to get the PCB's. I can solder small diodes with no issues and understand the wiring and even using diode zeners for larger arrays. My ideal light would be a stupid number of channels utilizing warm and cool LM310H Evo's, Red, photo Red, Far red, infrared, Royal blue, and UVB diodes with flourescent UV with my preverence being Pure UV T5 Ho from Agromax or the Solacure T12's. I'd like my 730nm switchable and on a timer for trigger lighting as well as a dimmer. I'd imagine I could use a tablet and an arduino to create a controller that would be far better than the units that theyre pushing for 200 300 bucks.

 

[Rocket Soul]

I would LOVE to build my own vertical style lights but I have no idea where to get standalone diodes, (just the chips, not the mounted turds that rapid LED sells at an inflated price) nor do I have any idea where to get the PCB's. I can solder small diodes with no issues and understand the wiring and even using diode zeners for larger arrays. My ideal light would be a stupid number of channels utilizing warm and cool LM310H Evo's, Red, photo Red, Far red, infrared, Royal blue, and UVB diodes with flourescent UV with my preverence being Pure UV T5 Ho from Agromax or the Solacure T12's. I'd like my 730nm switchable and on a timer for trigger lighting as well as a dimmer. I'd imagine I could use a tablet and an arduino to create a controller that would be far better than the units that theyre pushing for 200 300 bucks.

DIY was more popular years ago before leds came down in price. For parts theres @CobKits here on the forum. Theres looaaaads of stuff on AliExpress and Alibaba.
Parts kinda depends on where youre located; US/euro or wherever. If youre not shy to tell i could maybe set you off in the right direction.

Dont bite off too much to start with though; i dont see any reason going for all those channels. Uvb flouros and diodes would be doubling up on the same. To me a basic but still very high performing setup would be 3 channels. Instead of targeting individual nm target plant response: one main whites + reds, one blue/uv for targeting blue response and then some far reds maybe with IR on the same channel to target the far red end. Its very easy to lose track of how much wiring is involved and create a rats nest of cables that makes your light unpractical.

The main thing really is to have a good idea how to design the spectrum of whatever function you wanna target.
Im going with lm281b+ pro; they are much cheaper and you can make up for any difference in efficiency by doubling up on diode count. 2 of them ran at half power of 1 lm301b is about same price and performance and a better idea in my opinion.

On mammoth im not crazy about their mint green, has anyone ever seen those studies on green and not just a little blurb online? Ive been trying to track sown the study with full details for years and not much luck, only some mentions of it.
On our green heavy lights we have a different quality to the smells and taste; loses some of the in your face character; subtle and complex but not as loud.

 

[Rocket Soul]

I would LOVE to build my own vertical style lights but I have no idea where to get standalone diodes, (just the chips, not the mounted turds that rapid LED sells at an inflated price) nor do I have any idea where to get the PCB's. I can solder small diodes with no issues and understand the wiring and even using diode zeners for larger arrays. My ideal light would be a stupid number of channels utilizing warm and cool LM310H Evo's, Red, photo Red, Far red, infrared, Royal blue, and UVB diodes with flourescent UV with my preverence being Pure UV T5 Ho from Agromax or the Solacure T12's. I'd like my 730nm switchable and on a timer for trigger lighting as well as a dimmer. I'd imagine I could use a tablet and an arduino to create a controller that would be far better than the units that theyre pushing for 200 300 bucks.

Another way would be mounting diodes on ledstars yourself, theres several techniques involving hotplates and hotairgun soldering but ive also seen people do it in a frying pan or even a hairdryer.

 

[BigFloppyDonkeyDick]

DIY was more popular years ago before leds came down in price. For parts theres @CobKits here on the forum. Theres looaaaads of stuff on AliExpress and Alibaba.
Parts kinda depends on where youre located; US/euro or wherever. If youre not shy to tell i could maybe set you off in the right direction.

Dont bite off too much to start with though; i dont see any reason going for all those channels. Uvb flouros and diodes would be doubling up on the same. To me a basic but still very high performing setup would be 3 channels. Instead of targeting individual nm target plant response: one main whites + reds, one blue/uv for targeting blue response and then some far reds maybe with IR on the same channel to target the far red end. Its very easy to lose track of how much wiring is involved and create a rats nest of cables that makes your light unpractical.

The main thing really is to have a good idea how to design the spectrum of whatever function you wanna target.
Im going with lm281b+ pro; they are much cheaper and you can make up for any difference in efficiency by doubling up on diode count. 2 of them ran at half power of 1 lm301b is about same price and performance and a better idea in my opinion.

On mammoth im not crazy about their mint green, has anyone ever seen those studies on green and not just a little blurb online? Ive been trying to track sown the study with full details for years and not much luck, only some mentions of it.
On our green heavy lights we have a different quality to the smells and taste; loses some of the in your face character; subtle and complex but not as loud.

I'm with you on the mint-green. We've been using green light to work in our grow rooms during the plants' night periods for years so it's not aligning in my head as to how green light is all-of-a-sudden useful to photosynthesis now that Samsung has dropped a new LM-Series chip. I understand that green is an entire wavelength range in its own right, but it's literally been frowned upon for ages. A lot of arguments in the past, especially regarding Platinum LED's and how they were using diodes in their 23 color spectrum that were worthless, namely gr4een diodes and now the bandwagon has arrived to pick up a bunch of fan boys for this mint green trend. I personally had great results during the blurple period with Platinum being my go-to until, honestly, they went out of business. I staggered P1200's with 1,000W DE CMH (3,100KR) in my rooms and had the heaviest, frostiest, juiciest runs of my go-to strains that I've ever had but times change, Platinum is dead, DE CHM is dead, and I've gone forward with Optic LED. I'm running 1:1 consumption as far as power is concerned but have been able to dial back AC by 40+ percent thanks to modifying the lights to remove the ballasts from the fixtures. The KillaWatt 1000 Blooms have a killer spectrum and they have not forgotten about the use of royal blue, ALL of the reds, UV, or IR and are not just running arrays that are just a bunch of warm and cool white chips with a 660nm here and there and even fewer ir chips. That seems to be the norm, especially form the direct-from-China lights, (Mars, Spider Farmer, etc.) The 8+ is also a bad ass running 9 CXB3090's and a blurple array with UV and IR as well. I run those in my 3x6 auto tents on movers and never see less than 2 of top shelf loudness. As great as the lights are form them, I still want more from my lights. The reason for the channels being assigned as such is to dial in every single broadcast wavelength to a specific level and researching the effects of these dialed spectrums. I am an advanced electrical engineer that never made a job of it so biting off more that I can chew is never an option. I'm the guy that says if I don't get it done the first try, I will keep at it until I have the results I expect. The topic of the far red and it being switchable comes from an article I'd read, eons ago, discussing the effects it has on putting plants to sleep and switching them to their night time behaviors, Ideally, 722nm is where it happens in nature, but 730 is close enough from a diode to get the same results which essentially gets the plants to sleep and wake up in a matter of minutes instead of a couple hours. I've used trigger lighting for years and it has been 100 percent rewarding. Not only does it work on the day to night, but also to initiate flower more quickly. Anyhoo. I appreciate the input and am still quite interested in building my own lights in the future. I am in the USA. I'm not interested in hand-soldering 5,000 diodes but can build something robotic to handle that duty and am already in the process of building my equipment to manufacture and print my own PCB's.

 

[Rocket Soul]

I'm with you on the mint-green. We've been using green light to work in our grow rooms during the plants' night periods for years so it's not aligning in my head as to how green light is all-of-a-sudden useful to photosynthesis now that Samsung has dropped a new LM-Series chip. I understand that green is an entire wavelength range in its own right, but it's literally been frowned upon for ages. A lot of arguments in the past, especially regarding Platinum LED's and how they were using diodes in their 23 color spectrum that were worthless, namely gr4een diodes and now the bandwagon has arrived to pick up a bunch of fan boys for this mint green trend. I personally had great results during the blurple period with Platinum being my go-to until, honestly, they went out of business. I staggered P1200's with 1,000W DE CMH (3,100KR) in my rooms and had the heaviest, frostiest, juiciest runs of my go-to strains that I've ever had but times change, Platinum is dead, DE CHM is dead, and I've gone forward with Optic LED. I'm running 1:1 consumption as far as power is concerned but have been able to dial back AC by 40+ percent thanks to modifying the lights to remove the ballasts from the fixtures. The KillaWatt 1000 Blooms have a killer spectrum and they have not forgotten about the use of royal blue, ALL of the reds, UV, or IR and are not just running arrays that are just a bunch of warm and cool white chips with a 660nm here and there and even fewer ir chips. That seems to be the norm, especially form the direct-from-China lights, (Mars, Spider Farmer, etc.) The 8+ is also a bad ass running 9 CXB3090's and a blurple array with UV and IR as well. I run those in my 3x6 auto tents on movers and never see less than 2 of top shelf loudness. As great as the lights are form them, I still want more from my lights. The reason for the channels being assigned as such is to dial in every single broadcast wavelength to a specific level and researching the effects of these dialed spectrums. I am an advanced electrical engineer that never made a job of it so biting off more that I can chew is never an option. I'm the guy that says if I don't get it done the first try, I will keep at it until I have the results I expect. The topic of the far red and it being switchable comes from an article I'd read, eons ago, discussing the effects it has on putting plants to sleep and switching them to their night time behaviors, Ideally, 722nm is where it happens in nature, but 730 is close enough from a diode to get the same results which essentially gets the plants to sleep and wake up in a matter of minutes instead of a couple hours. I've used trigger lighting for years and it has been 100 percent rewarding. Not only does it work on the day to night, but also to initiate flower more quickly. Anyhoo. I appreciate the input and am still quite interested in building my own lights in the future. I am in the USA. I'm not interested in hand-soldering 5,000 diodes but can build something robotic to handle that duty and am already in the process of building my equipment to manufacture and print my own PCB's.

Il pm you later to not derail the mammoth thread with diy stuff.

 

[Sade]

Metal Halide, specifically a Hortilux Blue -6500k, and a DE 1000w Halide-5500k, both have wider spectrum than any LED, and its a fact, plants use a great deal of light, that cant be seen. LED only produces visible light. Metal Halide, goes all the way to 2000nm+ and down to 350nm, plus infrared, which some may consider wasted energy, but, the sun, produces a great deal of infrared.

Technically when you say LED is giving more photons, youre leaving out the photons below 437nm, and above 720nm-750nm. Metal Halide, and HPS BOTH produce very strong invisible light below 437nm, and above 750nm.
Ive also never smoked any weed, as good as I was growing in the 90s, under Halide, but the FBI got the strain.

Ive been smoking since 1967, and this suff was as good as anything Ive ever seen. And we have a verified Chem91skva cut, which has been measured at 32%+ THC, though that doesnt tell the whole story. But the stuff I had in the 90s, was so potent, it ran many of my customers off. It was grown under Halide, and Ive seen NOTHING grown under LED, or any other type lighting for that matter.

So, I know, for 100% for sure, Metal Halide, can grow as potent of weed, as any light source.

And the guy at MassMEdicalStrains also agrees, and he says he has experimented, and finds that more true expressions, like would take place outside, are better, under HID, and he spent 10s-1000s $$$$ on LED, and went back to HID.
He also says its strain dependent. And I agree. Just like some weed responds better to the Solacure bullbs, than others. Plants that come from higher UVA/B levels, respond better, than those that have not adapted to extremely high light/UVA/B levels.

Metal Halide, also gives off UVA/B, and does stimulate the UV8 receptor. Just dont use a glass shield in the reflector. The Solacure, is the most efficient/powerful.

While it doesnt show it, MH flatlines all the way to 2000nm+.

View attachment 5363863

I'm not challenging your argument at all and very informative. However will finally be leaving sawmill in Humboldt county for good and working fulltime year round on the fastest expanding and producing farm in Humboldt county Terp Mansion. They are buy most of the properties that were previously used by other growers. He as well was on the fence but finally made the switch and said he has never been happier with the flowers they produce and yield increased since switching from hid to LEDs and many other large farms following as well but he has one of those like $560,000 fully automated greenhouse which is amazing and fully automated but also has glass so utilizes the sun as well as lights so probably not a good example lol. Anyways so excited to live my dream wish me luck guys.

 

[KitnerPush]

White and red is all you need. You can get fancy with UV,FR,Green,Blue whatever... But I doubt you're really going to notice that much of a difference other than maybe better terpenes and plant shape. CO2 and intensity are more important than all the mumbo jumbo.

 

[KitnerPush]

I'm with you on the mint-green. We've been using green light to work in our grow rooms during the plants' night periods for years so it's not aligning in my head as to how green light is all-of-a-sudden useful to photosynthesis now that Samsung has dropped a new LM-Series chip. I understand that green is an entire wavelength range in its own right, but it's literally been frowned upon for ages. A lot of arguments in the past, especially regarding Platinum LED's and how they were using diodes in their 23 color spectrum that were worthless, namely gr4een diodes and now the bandwagon has arrived to pick up a bunch of fan boys for this mint green trend. I personally had great results during the blurple period with Platinum being my go-to until, honestly, they went out of business. I staggered P1200's with 1,000W DE CMH (3,100KR) in my rooms and had the heaviest, frostiest, juiciest runs of my go-to strains that I've ever had but times change, Platinum is dead, DE CHM is dead, and I've gone forward with Optic LED. I'm running 1:1 consumption as far as power is concerned but have been able to dial back AC by 40+ percent thanks to modifying the lights to remove the ballasts from the fixtures. The KillaWatt 1000 Blooms have a killer spectrum and they have not forgotten about the use of royal blue, ALL of the reds, UV, or IR and are not just running arrays that are just a bunch of warm and cool white chips with a 660nm here and there and even fewer ir chips. That seems to be the norm, especially form the direct-from-China lights, (Mars, Spider Farmer, etc.) The 8+ is also a bad ass running 9 CXB3090's and a blurple array with UV and IR as well. I run those in my 3x6 auto tents on movers and never see less than 2 of top shelf loudness. As great as the lights are form them, I still want more from my lights. The reason for the channels being assigned as such is to dial in every single broadcast wavelength to a specific level and researching the effects of these dialed spectrums. I am an advanced electrical engineer that never made a job of it so biting off more that I can chew is never an option. I'm the guy that says if I don't get it done the first try, I will keep at it until I have the results I expect. The topic of the far red and it being switchable comes from an article I'd read, eons ago, discussing the effects it has on putting plants to sleep and switching them to their night time behaviors, Ideally, 722nm is where it happens in nature, but 730 is close enough from a diode to get the same results which essentially gets the plants to sleep and wake up in a matter of minutes instead of a couple hours. I've used trigger lighting for years and it has been 100 percent rewarding. Not only does it work on the day to night, but also to initiate flower more quickly. Anyhoo. I appreciate the input and am still quite interested in building my own lights in the future. I am in the USA. I'm not interested in hand-soldering 5,000 diodes but can build something robotic to handle that duty and am already in the process of building my equipment to manufacture and print my own PCB's.

You're right, and the blurple today isn't what it used to be, it's much better. Wider spectrum choices in both red and blue, along with white to serve as green.

 

[Rocket Soul]

You're right, and the blurple today isn't what it used to be, it's much better. Wider spectrum choices in both red and blue, along with white to serve as green.

Which modern blurples are you thinking of?

 

[KitnerPush]

Which modern blurples are you thinking of?

Phillips

 

[KitnerPush]

Phillips

Or I meant the quality and range of the monos in comparison to the monos used back then...

 

[Rocket Soul]

Or I meant the quality and range of the monos in comparison to the monos used back then...

Still 450/660 based?

 

[KitnerPush]

Still 450/660 based?

Well yeah generally, the royal blue and deep red diodes today put those bulb diodes to shame... Plus you can shades of blue and shades of red today, and even a cunthair or white in there to just to even it out...green is getting better too.

The only argument for using green (at least the way I see it) is with red and blue. White diodes have plenty green, so you might as well use them in combination with red and blue for a more pinkish blurple like the Phillips. That light is intense, and in combination with dialled in CO2 and nute PPM, I'm convinced it is the best light to grow with... That's just my opinion, although I know many who share it...especially commercial growers. I never did get bleached tips with just white and small DR. When I dialled it in to where I could push at max without bleaching tips, or just minor bleached tips the weed was always damn good... I also remember getting a lot more fall colors towards end of flower too... Like non-crisp yellow and dark blue leaves... Not so much with white.

 

[greenbean1029]

I think what is trying to be said is that the light companies need to get sales. Im not saying it is a gimmick. I was a 1000whps/400wmh magnetic ballast user, then 315cm vertical hoods with uv from hortilux, to led with uv mostly for efficiency. One common denominator is if your environment is not dialed it does not matter what light anyone is using. To the op sorry not to derail this and your inquiry into a finished grow with this light @boostedhonda

I could be wrong, but I don't think HLG mentioned the use of mint diodes. Which leads me to believe it's not about the money and maybe it is about performance? Just speculating

 

[waytoofaded]

Green has been misunderstood for a long time, we now know green is even more efficient than blue for photosynthesis. Blue doesn't penetrative like green, green does deep into the leaves. We can grow and get excellent results without green, but we still want better efficiency if possible.

Well yeah generally, the royal blue and deep red diodes today put those bulb diodes to shame... Plus you can shades of blue and shades of red today, and even a cunthair or white in there to just to even it out...green is getting better too.

The only argument for using green (at least the way I see it) is with red and blue. White diodes have plenty green, so you might as well use them in combination with red and blue for a more pinkish blurple like the Phillips. That light is intense, and in combination with dialled in CO2 and nute PPM, I'm convinced it is the best light to grow with... That's just my opinion, although I know many who share it...especially commercial growers. I never did get bleached tips with just white and small DR. When I dialled it in to where I could push at max without bleaching tips, or just minor bleached tips the weed was always damn good... I also remember getting a lot more fall colors towards end of flower too... Like non-crisp yellow and dark blue leaves... Not so much with white.

 

[Rocket Soul]

Green has been misunderstood for a long time, we now know green is even more efficient than blue for photosynthesis. Blue doesn't penetrative like green, green does deep into the leaves. We can grow and get excellent results without green, but we still want better efficiency if possible.

The question is, do we like the morphological response to green? We are not trying to grow sticks, we are trying to grow juicy and fragrant buds. Does green really promote that? I suggest reading up on standard horticulture; green response. It doesnt make a good case for green.

 

[waytoofaded]

The question is, do we like the morphological response to green? We are not trying to grow sticks, we are trying to grow juicy and fragrant buds. Does green really promote that? I suggest reading up on standard horticulture; green response. It doesnt make a good case for green.

That's a good question that I would also like to know the answer to. Hopefully Dr. Bugbee can look more into this. Thanks for the article suggestion, always looking to learn and improve.