Mammoth mint white emerald green 880w

waytoofaded said:

That's a good question that I would also like to know the answer to. Hopefully Dr. Bugbee can look more into this. Thanks for the article suggestion, always looking to learn and improve.

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To the best of my knowledge Bugbee found no morphological effects but didn't quite specify what was the factors he looked at. But lets get this straight: he is one researcher out of many.
In general horticulture green response means more fibrous type growth of support like structure: it promotes more woody growth and is basicly an intra cannopy response; it tells the plant that the part under green light that its not top growth so better to produce fibery growth like a branch. This is nice for yield but is it any good for bud quality, terps and flavors? I doubt that.
I think many who see leds as inferior due to quality of smells, missing volatiles smells and such, are getting these results cause modern growlights depend too much on green and 660 leds for efficiency, rather than trying to get a more balanced approach. To me its insane the whole idea that any red between 600-700nm works the same for the plant when there are clear and differences in how light is processed depending on if its higher or lower that 650nm.
I believe the best approach for a good producing spectrum is wide blues, low to mid green (depending on what intensity your grow at) and wide red with at least as good coverage between 620-640nm as +650nm and at least some type of targeting of 680nm.

Here come the haters! lol. I am a huge fan of the OG LED's that were blurple. Shit, Blackdog and Optic still use that recipe with a mix of white and they are killer lights. Blackdog did their grow-along series with the Phytomax 2 in a 3x3 tent and pulled two and a half pounds of Burmese Kush. That's damned impressive. I ran Platinums for years until they fucked us all over when they went to their so-called therapy lights and took a giant shit on any customers who had warranties remaining on their grow lights. the up side is that I now buy, literally, the same exact lights for my connoisseur crops directly from the same manufacturer that built his lights but at a wayyyyy better price (less than 600 bucks each). The only difference is that the lights I buy, I have painted black and they obviously don't have "Platinum LED" Punched out of the sides of the cases, another upside is that the drivers are better than they used to be. for every 5x5 in my top shelf room, I run 2 P1200 knockoffs and 9 Cree CXB3590's (6x 3,000k and 3x 6,000k), and 2x 4' Agromax Pure UV fluorescent T50s as well as a small 730nm trigger set-up that I use in all my rooms that maybe eats 60 watts per group. It's not a power efficient route, but it always brings out the best in genetic expression when combined with a dialed environment. The breeds I run in there all average 2.5 to 3 per lighting group and the flower quality is phenomenal. This only goes into the top shelf room but is worth it. In the banger rooms I run Optic KillaWatts. Before those I was running GC ROI-E720's with the UB bar add-ons. I am now testing the Mammoth 10-Bar set-up and Am digging what I am seeing. Definitely seeing thicker branches as well as denser calyxes so it is definitely stimulating green growth. I don't see myself as an expert with what wavelengths do what though so I don't know if it's the mint diodes or the spectrum as a whole. I am debating building some booster boards (royal blue, photo and far red UV and IR) to try to make them run kinda like my Platinum room but I dunno yet. Still got the resurrection of OG skunk from 30+ year old seeds eating a lot of time and just that is tedious enough. Anyhoo. Just my 21.1 cents and experience playing with spectrums. One thing I absolutely DO look for in every full spectrum light I buy is a double red spike @ 750nm and 780nm. They seem to do much better than just a bumped red area when it comes to aggressive bud set and stack.