DIY LED light

L

Lariz

New Member
Hi,


I've been looking at the bridgelux EB gen 3 modules and I'm planning on going with 8 BXEB-L0590U-35E1500-C-C3 in a 75cm x 65cm space which may be slightly overkill, but it opens up room for expansion in future.
I've seen people who've had these strips mounted on a baking tray as a passive heatsink, and I was wondering if I run these at 0.7-0.9A, would I be able to get away with this in such a small space?
I've found baklava trays which are 70cmx47cm aluminium trays, so I believe the surface area and thermal conductivity of aluminium should be suffice in passive heat control, although I'm not certain and was hoping someone more experienced could provide some advice on this?

I'm just really not wanting to pay the exuberant amounts I've been seeing for heatsinks around europe - USA $16 for 12feet of 1inch thick heatsink, here the same equivalent is 5-8x that price.


Thanks in advance!
 
M

MedicinalMyA$$

Well-Known Member
Lariz said:
Hi,


I've been looking at the bridgelux EB gen 3 modules and I'm planning on going with 8 BXEB-L0590U-35E1500-C-C3 in a 75cm x 65cm space which may be slightly overkill, but it opens up room for expansion in future.
I've seen people who've had these strips mounted on a baking tray as a passive heatsink, and I was wondering if I run these at 0.7-0.9A, would I be able to get away with this in such a small space?
I've found baklava trays which are 70cmx47cm aluminium trays, so I believe the surface area and thermal conductivity of aluminium should be suffice in passive heat control, although I'm not certain and was hoping someone more experienced could provide some advice on this?

I'm just really not wanting to pay the exuberant amounts I've been seeing for heatsinks around europe - USA $16 for 12feet of 1inch thick heatsink, here the same equivalent is 5-8x that price.


Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
The datasheet says at low currents they may not require heatsinks, maybe try the 8 of them in parallel and if they get a bit hot then just add some more strips.
 
MidnightSun72

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
Lariz said:
Hi,


I've been looking at the bridgelux EB gen 3 modules and I'm planning on going with 8 BXEB-L0590U-35E1500-C-C3 in a 75cm x 65cm space which may be slightly overkill, but it opens up room for expansion in future.
I've seen people who've had these strips mounted on a baking tray as a passive heatsink, and I was wondering if I run these at 0.7-0.9A, would I be able to get away with this in such a small space?
I've found baklava trays which are 70cmx47cm aluminium trays, so I believe the surface area and thermal conductivity of aluminium should be suffice in passive heat control, although I'm not certain and was hoping someone more experienced could provide some advice on this?

I'm just really not wanting to pay the exuberant amounts I've been seeing for heatsinks around europe - USA $16 for 12feet of 1inch thick heatsink, here the same equivalent is 5-8x that price.


Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
I personally have a lot of experience with these strips. You don't need a heat sink at 0.7a with them. The baking trays will be a perfectly sufficient heat sink/ physical support structure.
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
These eb slims are quite flimsy, i recommend some kind of support but no sinking necessary at 700mA. The drawback with these are that the build can get messy since each strip needs a parallel string with connecting cables. Pro tip: wire 2 (or even 4) in series with a higher voltage driver: series connection tend to be less mess than parallel.
 
L

Lariz

New Member
Thank you all for your replies, really appreciate it!

I decided to go for a combination of all advice, in increasing my total strips (Thanks @Rennpappe) but remaining at the same current as advised by all other replies (thanks for the confidence boost @MidnightSun72 your experience is greatly appreciated).

My thoughts are running 14 strips at 0.7A in parallel (I'll manage messy wires as best possible!) but on two separate drivers. This offers the potential of turning one off completely until it's needed, or until expanding.
I was thinking of running on a driver which I've seen is rated 12-24v and max current of 5A which should provide each strip 0.71A (7 strips per driver).

My only concern is would there by any detrimental impacts from running the driver this hard? I know heat will be an obvious byproduct, as is the tolerance for any current drop (which I'm not overly concerned about) but I believe I should be OK in the voltage department. I'm more concerned about lifespan, and potential overheating/fire hazards? I'll 100% be going with meanwell drivers, I don't think this is a worthwhile part to cheapout on given it's quite literally the driving point behind being a success, or a failure.

Thanks again! Really enjoyed reading into all different circuit designs, and understanding the maths behind it - Which is significantly less complicated than I initially thought it would be!
 
L

Lariz

New Member
MedicinalMyA$$ said:
If you haven't already bought the Bridgelux strips, you might consider these 3K LM301B Samsung H-Influx strips, available for $3.70 each. That's very cheap for what they are.
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They'd take too long to get here, unfortunately. I have sourced some SI-B8Y101560US for a reasonable price, but I can't really find any mention in the data sheet whether these would require heat sinking when run at their test currents (450ma). I don't suppose you'd know if I'd be able to get away without sinking them, and what current I'd be able to run them to without a sink? I've seen they have a max current of 950ma and would assume there's a safe tolerance/threshold above 450ma where they could be run without a heat sink (if they can be run at 450ma without a heatsink).
The location I am is fairly cold, with indoor temps averaging 18 celcius - So some heat is definitely needed, welcome, and hopefully would aid in heat dissipation.
 
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Rennpappe

Rennpappe

Active Member
Google only finds the SI-B8T101560US .
Never use strips at rated current without proper cooling. Proper cooling will cost you more than buying more strips to lower the current.
If you drive them hard they will degrade quickly. LED's are supposed to make light, not heat.
For heating use a heater, not LED's.

And if you buy many strips, use a light meter or phone to check your light pressure or you'll burn your plants.
 
M

MedicinalMyA$$

Well-Known Member
Lariz said:
They'd take too long to get here, unfortunately. I have sourced some SI-B8Y101560US for a reasonable price, but I can't really find any mention in the data sheet whether these would require heat sinking when run at their test currents (450ma). I don't suppose you'd know if I'd be able to get away without sinking them?
The location I am is fairly cold, with indoor temps averaging 18 celcius - So some heat is definitely needed, welcome, and hopefully would aid in heat dissipation.
Click to expand...
The Q-Series strips you mention are very floppy and would most likely require something to at least attach them to. I run the 4ft versions at 350mA on some U-channel and they barely get warm even with minimal air movement. They are really thin so I'm guessing this is to help with heat transfer/efficacy etc

The H-Influx strips I linked before were a good deal, they are very solid and at low currents wouldn't require sinks or anything other than something to hold them in position.

If you are after heat I would just use the baking tray, it will act kind of like a hood and trap some heat. Your driver will put off some heat you can use, as will slowing your extraction, especially for that little space.

If heat-sinks are an issue for you right now you may be able to do something similar to THIS if you can find some cheap strips. I've only ever found cheap strips (and drivers) at Arrow.com
 
J

Jonesfamily7715

Well-Known Member
MedicinalMyA$$ said:
I've seen that a few times before when they have had stuff really cheap, quite often the price soon drops again until they have all sold.
Care to share your build?
Click to expand...
Sure will when I figure out how I'ma do it, I already have plenty of aluminum angle bar 1 1/2" , 1/8" thick. I got like 4, 8' bars. And I also got 421 cree xpg3 diodes off arrow for under $90, just gotta reflow em to boards
 
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