Chlorine Friendly Nutrients In Canada

[OldMedUser]

Thanks for the replies guys. Yes; I think you're right OldMedUser. I've pretty much decided to stay with the H2O2 and only use the chlorine between grows to clean everything. 8ml per L of 35% H2O2 seams pretty high. I use 8ml of 3% H2O2 and I thought that was high. Did your plants leaves droop some?

The company I buy from only carries 29% H2O2. I guess this is ok: just have to use a bit more. I was bringing it to 3% because the info I was able to find on mixing H2O2 into the res was always at 3% and said to use up to 3ml per L. That didn't do anything for me. Thinking that if 1 part 29% H2O2 to 9 parts water makes 3% H2O2 and I'm using 8ml per L of 3%, then I should be able to use almost 1 ml of 29% H2O2 to get the same strength. What's your thoughts?

I have been adding 30% of initial dosage of H2O2 each day for make up because of the root rot issue. I make allowances if the res is down and I add H2O2 to make up water at the rate of 8ml H2O2 per L . Most of the roots are good, but there is the odd spot that looks like root rot. I'm not able to lift the plants, so I am limited as to how much I can see. I am going to take pics of the system today and hopefully can figure out how to get them on here.

The chiller does a great job. The temp in the res is 60 to 61F. From what I can tell the temp in the pots is 63 to 64F. I should mention the pots are 48L coolers so the temps in them don't change very fast. Also, each pot has an air pump with a 6" round air stone. These are great air stones. This is the first grow using the coolers. Thinking back; I think the problem probably started in my veg room. They are in buckets in there and the temps do getup to 70 to 72 F. I don't have a chiller for that room. When the flower room is empty they get moved over.

If you only have a few spots of concern and not full-blown root rot with dead roots floating around in there then I'd say go with 5ml/L of the 29% every 2 days for 3 doses then the 0.5ml/L twice a week until you are sure it's cleared up.

8ml/L of 3% is less than 1ml/L of the 29% so still a pretty low dose to get rid of rot. Even at 8ml/L of 35% I never saw any effect showing in the plant's droopiness or lack of. With the low temps you have going on in your nutes any rot is going to have a hard time spreading so a couple decent doses should get rid of it.

The only time I ever got rot was when I had rooted cuttings in a mix that had some real soil in it. That happened twice out of 50 tubs of plants over 18 years. Both times I beat it back with peroxide and only lost a couple of plants but with 4 or more plants per tub it gave more room for the survivors so probably didn't lose much. I usually root in straight ProMix HP that I've run thru a 1mm mesh screen watered with a dilute sol'n of AN 3-part to let them get lots of roots before sticking into the net pots full of hydroton balls.

 

[Johnny Lawrence]

I'm not familiar with the term bacillus amyloliquefaciens. Is it a good bacteria? I have used Hydroguard. I used it as directed, but still got root rot.

Hydrogarbage.

Get Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide. It's under $15 on Amazon. Same strain as Hydroguard. A lot more concentrated. I ml per gallon shoukd clear up root rot issues. Half a ml per gallon for general use.

I ran sterile for years. Salts and tap. No issues. Then one day, bam, root rot. Took me a minute and several different products to finally get to Southern AG. Shit works. I put it straight into the controller bucket, then fill the whole system up so they get a good root drench. I do this once a week when I change out the rez water.

 

[Johnny Lawrence]

I'd like to add that this particular strain is fine with high EC salts, temp swings, and ph swings. They doesn't help with uptake of nutes. They simply colonize the root zone and battle any dirty little fuckas who try to take their colony from them.

My roots look like they could be used in a Colgate commercial.

 

[The Older Guy]

The roots look great OldMedUser and I will use extra H2O2 and keep an eye on everything. Thank you for the info.

Thanks Johnny; I'll have a look for that.
Sounds like you found the right stuff.

 

[The Older Guy]

Gotcha Johnny. I can tell you I have never had roots that white and it bugs me because I know it all starts with the roots.

 

[The Older Guy]

Is this the stuff Johnny?

 

[rkymtnman]

as you might be aware, you can either go sterile or with good bacteria but not both at the same time.

 

[The Older Guy]

Hey Johnny. I see after I sent that, that it isn't what I'm looking for. I don't see it on Amazon. Maybe because I'm in Canada. I'm going to look on the U.S. site.

 

[The Older Guy]

Yes; I know it's one or the other. I might hook my UV up to the res for a few days and see what happens. My res and containers are very clean so I don't think there is any light issues. I'm thinking if there were light issues you would see signs of it... It will be a few days before I could get anything to put in the res anyway. I read the info about the UV destroying the iron chelates thus allowing the iron to settle out. There is one that held up pretty good. i-Fe-EDDHA. If Remo uses that particular chelate in their food there shouldn't be much of a problem.

 

[The Older Guy]

Well Johnny. It looks like it isn't going to be easy to buy the stuff. Amazon.com is out and don't know if or when they will have it again. Did some google searches with no luck. I'll do some more checking tomorrow.

 

[Turpman]

E bay is where I got my garden friendly fungicide . It’s not approved in Canada so can be hard to source and pricy by the time you get it.

 

[The Older Guy]

Hey rkymtnman. Here are the pics you were asking about. A quick explanation of the system... The first pic is of the RO system used. From there through a 1 micron filter and then to the UV light and then into the holding tank for fresh water. Picture number 4 Is the nutes being mixed in. I use a Meg drive 18B sitting on the bottom of the tank and also the pump with the green hose on it to move liquid around. That pump is a Meg drive 7. Pic 5 & 6 shows the chiller, the res, and the Monarch 3/4 hp pump that pumps to the plants(much too big, but that's what I had). Out of the res and through another filter(pic 7) and to the plants using overhead cvpc pipe that is insulated with pipe insulation. I have some wrapped over that with what I call bubble wrap insulation(pic.
Pic 9 shows the feed line coming down and pic 10 shows where it enters the pot at the bottom. Pic 9 also shows the return line that carries the nutes back to the reservoir. Pic 11 shows how I check the roots or take samples from that particular pot and pic 12 shows the return line going through the wall and carrying the nutes back to the res shown in pic 5. I know with this system there are lots of places that problems can happen. I think with hydro such as this you have to be successful with either a good bacteria grow or a sterile grow to be successful. Right now I have upped the amount of H2O2 that I'm using. So far there is just a sign of root rot, so I intend to gradually increase the H2O2 until the signs of root rot is gone or the plants show they can't take any more.

Happy to answer any questions from anyone.

 

[The Older Guy]

Thanks, Turpman. I was thinking that might be the case. I had the same problem trying to source something else... it's a pain.

 

[rkymtnman]

Hey rkymtnman. Here are the pics you were asking about. A quick explanation of the system... The first pic is of the RO system used. From there through a 1 micron filter and then to the UV light and then into the holding tank for fresh water. Picture number 4 Is the nutes being mixed in. I use a Meg drive 18B sitting on the bottom of the tank and also the pump with the green hose on it to move liquid around. That pump is a Meg drive 7. Pic 5 & 6 shows the chiller, the res, and the Monarch 3/4 hp pump that pumps to the plants(much too big, but that's what I had). Out of the res and through another filter(pic 7) and to the plants using overhead cvpc pipe that is insulated with pipe insulation. I have some wrapped over that with what I call bubble wrap insulation(pic.
Pic 9 shows the feed line coming down and pic 10 shows where it enters the pot at the bottom. Pic 9 also shows the return line that carries the nutes back to the reservoir. Pic 11 shows how I check the roots or take samples from that particular pot and pic 12 shows the return line going through the wall and carrying the nutes back to the res shown in pic 5. I know with this system there are lots of places that problems can happen. I think with hydro such as this you have to be successful with either a good bacteria grow or a sterile grow to be successful. Right now I have upped the amount of H2O2 that I'm using. So far there is just a sign of root rot, so I intend to gradually increase the H2O2 until the signs of root rot is gone or the plants show they can't take any more.

Happy to answer any questions from anyone.

could you put up a bigger pic of 9? the one of your tote with plant?

 

[The Older Guy]

Should be able to. See what I can do.

 

[The Older Guy]

Hope I didn't make it too big. This work?

 

[rkymtnman]

Hope I didn't make it too big. This work?
View attachment 5265213

if that is just the normal yellow lid for that tote, i would try to light proof it . i covered mine up with panda film which really helped block ambient light from the res.

 

[OldMedUser]

Is this the stuff Johnny? View attachment 5265043

Careful with that stuff! I almost killed all my plants using a powder chelated iron product last year and I thought I was using just a tiny bit.

Had to flush the hell out of them to get rid of it and still ended up with shit plants that took a month to nurse back to decent health.

Iron is a micro-nutrient needed in very small amounts and is a fairly rare deficiency to have.

 

[rkymtnman]

Careful with that stuff! I almost killed all my plants using a powder chelated iron product last year and I thought I was using just a tiny bit.

Had to flush the hell out of them to get rid of it and still ended up with shit plants that took a month to nurse back to decent health.

Iron is a micro-nutrient needed in very small amounts and is a fairly rare deficiency to have.

that wasn't the correct bottle. the garden friendly fungicide by southern ag (same stuff as hydroguard). i think he said not available in canada though

 

[OldMedUser]

that wasn't the correct bottle. the garden friendly fungicide by southern ag (same stuff as hydroguard). i think he said not available in canada though

As long as he knows it's the wrong stuff.