Almost to harvest and spider mites

MDBMDB

Member
So I am almost to harvest and suddenly have a spider mite problem. I understand that spraying oil this late is a no no. Options I am considering are to go ahead and harvest a bit early. I believe another two to three weeks before harvest would be ideal but if I leave them unchecked the spider mites will proabably web up everything by then. Another idea is to defoliate massively and rub oil on the few remaining leaves taking care not to get oil on the buds. Anyone have advice on those two options or any other advice? It is just my second grow and I don’t want to loose it this close to the end.
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Actinolite

Member
Defoliating may buy you a week or two depending on how bad they are already. I would start there personally (you'll probably stunt your growth quite a bit at this point by doing that, but if your alternative is to harvest you may as well defoliate first).
If you can get predator mites quickly, go that route, they will help immensely.
If all else fails and you really wanna keep going, you can wash the buds after you harvest. I don't like doing that but it's an option.
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
Defóliate, vacuum and in extreme cases take the plants outside and wash them down with cold water. Then release some predators. To handle the rest. Spider mites are the creatures of nightmares. Drop your room temp to slow their life cycle.

also one note on persimillis predator mites. You have to make sure they don't travel for very long to get to you. The fresher you get them, The more effective they will be. When you open the cap at first you should see hundreds of red fuckers running around like crazy. If they are not moving then they are probably dead and won't do shit for your infestation. Good luck.
 

Oldreefer

Well-Known Member
The only time had had those bastards, I applied diatomaceous earth via duster and vacuumed later. Couple applications may be needed but you can smoke the DE easier than ya can mites.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Defóliate, vacuum and in extreme cases take the plants outside and wash them down with cold water. Then release some predators. To handle the rest. Spider mites are the creatures of nightmares. Drop your room temp to slow their life cycle.

also one note on persimillis predator mites. You have to make sure they don't travel for very long to get to you. The fresher you get them, The more effective they will be. When you open the cap at first you should see hundreds of red fuckers running around like crazy. If they are not moving then they are probably dead and won't do shit for your infestation. Good luck.
Careful you don't toss them too soon. If they are cold their activity will slow. I'm just saying make sure they're dead and not just cold.

And going straight through Good Guys is cheaper than Arbico. They've got a spider mite trio too.
 

rmax

Well-Known Member
That flower is going to snap, crackle & pop when burning because of the mite bodies heating then exploding. Be careful.
 

Phytoplankton

Well-Known Member
Diatomaceous earth will work pretty well, BUT, you need to do a very thorough bud wash before you smoke it. Unfortunately "the Borg" are a scourge to growers.
 

Hotrod2

Well-Known Member
I think the best way to kill spider mites is to suffocate them. Not knowing how tall your plants are, if they will fit in a 55 gallon trash bag. If so put them in the trash bag pull the trash bag up around the plant and fill the bag with CO2 for 5 to 10 minutes. Repeat in one week so you kill the ones that hatch from the new eggs. Don't skimp on the bags buy the heavy duty ones. The CO2 will benefit your plants and of course the spider mites cannot breathe so they will die.
 

Phytoplankton

Well-Known Member
I think the best way to kill spider mites is to suffocate them. Not knowing how tall your plants are, if they will fit in a 55 gallon trash bag. If so put them in the trash bag pull the trash bag up around the plant and fill the bag with CO2 for 5 to 10 minutes. Repeat in one week so you kill the ones that hatch from the new eggs. Don't skimp on the bags buy the heavy duty ones. The CO2 will benefit your plants and of course the spider mites cannot breathe so they will die.
Nyloc bags, that are used to store food when fumigating a house, are perfect.
 

Hotrod2

Well-Known Member
I have not done this yet. But I am starting a grow with some autoflowers and I'm considering putting all my fabric pots in large trash bags and once a week feeding my plants CO2 with the idea of the benefit that will have to the leaves and the plant overall.
 

Modern Selections

Well-Known Member
Just be careful of overdoing the CO2. Plants will turn red with CO2 poisoning.

It used to be a thing to increase ppm of CO2 to 10,000 ppm for an hour to wipe out insects.

Best thing to do is spray a few times a day with plain water and increase the wind and lower the temps. This will keep them at bay until harvest. Looks like about 3 weeks.
 

Hotrod2

Well-Known Member
Just be careful of overdoing the CO2. Plants will turn red with CO2 poisoning.

It used to be a thing to increase ppm of CO2 to 10,000 ppm for an hour to wipe out insects.

Best thing to do is spray a few times a day with plain water and increase the wind and lower the temps. This will keep them at bay until harvest. Looks like about 3 weeks.
I'm only suggesting two times for 5 minutes each time to suffocate them. I'm not yet sure what it appropriate to use on a regular basis. I spent a hundreds of dollars and many hours trying to kill them when I had them and my bro was completely decimated. Never again. I don't allow anyone in my grow room but me.
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
I tried this a couple times and it seemed to work well.

I mixed up a simple ISO ( isopropyl alcohol 70% ) or food grade ( I used everclear 120 ) and water in a bottle sprayer.
2 parts water / alcohol . Heavy infestation up to 1:1.….. ( extreme )
That latter mix will roast the little fuckers on contact. However , I do not spray the flowers …. Only the leaf matter , stalks , branches , etc.
It desiccates them on contact - even eggs. Alcohol will evaporate fairly quickly when applied which helps in doing multiple sprays.
NO residue like oil. After first good spray down - 15 minutes later do it again. Another 15 and I mist wash off the dead.
I checked with a loupe after initial spray - mites are dead / eggs discolored.

As far as harvesting bugs in flowers ( triches are sticky ) and will trap some.
Look into BUD WASHING online …. Simple method to pull debris , bugs , old foliar residue , dirt by dunking.
Then hung dried as usual when harvested.

GL
 

Hotrod2

Well-Known Member
I tried this a couple times and it seemed to work well.

I mixed up a simple ISO ( isopropyl alcohol 70% ) or food grade ( I used everclear 120 ) and water in a bottle sprayer.
2 parts water / alcohol . Heavy infestation up to 1:1.….. ( extreme )
That latter mix will roast the little fuckers on contact. However , I do not spray the flowers …. Only the leaf matter , stalks , branches , etc.
It desiccates them on contact - even eggs. Alcohol will evaporate fairly quickly when applied which helps in doing multiple sprays.
NO residue like oil. After first good spray down - 15 minutes later do it again. Another 15 and I mist wash off the dead.
I checked with a loupe after initial spray - mites are dead / eggs discolored.

As far as harvesting bugs in flowers ( triches are sticky ) and will trap some.
Look into BUD WASHING online …. Simple method to pull debris , bugs , old foliar residue , dirt by dunking.
Then hung dried as usual when harvested.

GL
Don't spider mites mostly feed on the buds?
 
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