Changed my driver to double the power but light doesn’t seem any brighter?

[Boatguy]

Sweet setup imma grab the same driver

You wouldnt have to rewire your panels to series if you go with the driver @ANC and @Prawn Connery
recommended.
Price is about the same

 

[SaHt420]

You wouldnt have to rewire your panels to series if you go with the driver @ANC and @Prawn Connery
recommended.
Price is about the same

Yea I already re did them in series to see what it throws with the c2100 50% power we get 5-600ppfd at 24 inches above canopy.

 

[SaHt420]

Yea I already re did them in series to see what it throws with the c2100 50% power we get 5-600ppfd at 24 inches above canopy.View attachment 5240958View attachment 5240959

Might run this for now prolly until flower it’s plenty for veg lol

 

[Boatguy]

By my estimate, a HLG-320H-54A or AB (now that I've seen the Samsung datasheet) has the potential to pull 30-40W more than your C2800, but it can always be dimmed. Comes down to how much power the OP wants or needs.

When i look at that datasheet, i see that operating voltage at 129w is 58.8 so i assumed that at 2800ma the operating voltage would be even higher.
Is that the case, or does voltage not really matter that much compared to drive current?

 

[Prawn Connery]

When i look at that datasheet, i see that operating voltage at 129w is 58.8 so i assumed that at 2800ma the operating voltage would be even higher.
Is that the case, or does voltage not really matter that much compared to drive current?

Voltage requirements always increase with current. Simplest way to explain this is to look at an LED Forward Voltage vs Forward Current graph. This is a Nichia 3030 diode. See how voltage increases with current (lefthand side) and decreases with temperature (righthand side).

As current increases, temperature will also increase which partially offsets the higher voltage requirements, but not by much, because the temperature increase is relatively small (say from 25C to 70C) compared to the multitude increase in current.

 

[Rocket Soul]

The A drivers have Io and Vo adjustment but the 320 AB drivers only have an Io dial. GLA has sold a lot of these over the years so I can confirm that is the case as I've seen and tested both models in the flesh (metal).

Personally, I see no real advantage to voltage limiting most LED panels as it's a tricky business. As soon as the temperature of the LEDs changes, the current also changes quite a lot (edit: assuming you are not ALSO current limiting – which you can do). It can be an advantage to limit maximum voltage as a way of also limiting the maximum current, but you can do this anyway with the Io dial. Removing the Vo dial removes one more thing that users can fark up if they don't know what they're doing. When dimming A drivers, we always recommend only adjusting the current dial.

Is this the case for all the hlg AB type?
I like the A type when you have any risk for one of of your parallel boards should fail or get a loose cable: you use the Vo to sorta set a max wattage per board by adjusting it down to match your desired max wattage. Or for those pesky leds that dont match up well with regular led voltages, for example blux vestas at 25V and blux eb 2 foot at 19ish. I just do 2 in series and use a 48A/36A and privlem solved, with a bonus of a bit of extra wattage out of the driver.

 

[Prawn Connery]

Samsung is known to do some pretty sneaky stuff with their diodes, such as over-rating them. This has nothing to do with HLG – it's all on Samsung. So this is where it gets interesting.

An increase in forward voltage from 51.0V to 58.8V at the same 2.2A current is over 15%. That really doesn't make any sense to me, because I have never seen such a large variance in voltage due to temperature. Indeed, if you look at the LM301H datasheet, there is only a 3% drop in forward voltage from 25-85C, yet Samsung says there is a 15% potential difference in forward voltage at the same current!

So that brings us to voltage bins. The only thing I can think of is that Samsung are throwing any old voltage bins on these boards, because the LM301H bins range from 2.6-2.9V each – which is still only an 11.5% difference. But if add the 3% temp variation in there, then we get close to 15%.

I am not saying this is the case, but there does not appear to be any other explanation as to why there is such a wide variance in forward voltage at the same current.

Basically, if you're confused by this then so am I

 

[SaHt420]

Samsung is known to do some pretty sneaky stuff with their diodes, such as over-rating them. This has nothing to do with HLG – it's all on Samsung. So this is where it gets interesting.

An increase in forward voltage from 51.0V to 58.8V at the same 2.2A current is over 15%. That really doesn't make any sense to me, because I have never seen such a large variance in voltage due to temperature. Indeed, if you look at the LM301H datasheet, there is only a 3% drop in forward voltage from 25-85C, yet Samsung says there is a 15% potential difference in forward voltage at the same current!

So that brings us to voltage bins. The only thing I can think of is that Samsung are throwing any old voltage bins on these boards, because the LM301H bins range from 2.6-2.9V each – which is still only an 11.5% difference. But if add the 3% temp variation in there, then we get close to 15%.

I am not saying this is the case, but there does not appear to be any other explanation as to why there is such a wide variance in forward voltage at the same current.

Basically, if you're confused by this then so am I

View attachment 5240975

Ya sound like one of the smartest pot heads ever lol

 

[Prawn Connery]

Is this the case for all the hlg AB type?
I like the A type when you have any risk for one of of your parallel boards should fail or get a loose cable: you use the Vo to sorta set a max wattage per board by adjusting it down to match your desired max wattage. Or for those pesky leds that dont match up well with regular led voltages, for example blux vestas at 25V and blux eb 2 foot at 19ish. I just do 2 in series and use a 48A/36A and privlem solved, with a bonus of a bit of extra wattage out of the driver.

The HLG-320 AB models are the only drivers I have seen without a Vo dial compared to the A models. And I have worked with most of the ELG and HLG range. I don't know why Mean Well does this.

The XLGs are the other models that only have a current dial, but the XLGs behave more like a constant power driver than a CC or CV driver (even though all Mean Wells are technically CC drivers). They are a different animal and I don't like them because when you crank up the current dial too much they go into limp mode. They can also sit at very high currents just before limp mode, which leads to failure.

I do agree having a Vo dial gives you more options to voltage limit LEDs – especially when wired in parallel (because voltage limiting also current limits) – but it can be a PIA when customers start playing with it and wonder why their LEDs are not behaving well. Vo dials are really only good for setting hard limits when LED boards and strips are wired in parallel or the driver is too big for the application, and then it offers added insurance.

But in reality, I don't think it's that useful when you match the correct driver to the LED application, because you should really only be adjusting the current when you dim up and down. It's the current, after all, that drives everything.

 

[SaHt420]

Just so don’t fuck up lmao this is the one correct? Lmao

 

[Prawn Connery]

Ya sound like one of the smartest pot heads ever lol

LOL! There are some very smart people on these boards. In fact, there are some very smart people already posting in this thread. But I'll take that as a compliment!

Pot doesn't make you dumb, BTW

 

[SaHt420]

LOL! There are some very smart people on these boards. In fact, there are some very smart people already posting in this thread. But I'll take that as a compliment!

Pot doesn't make you dumb, BTW

Never said it did

 

[Boatguy]

Samsung is known to do some pretty sneaky stuff with their diodes, such as over-rating them. This has nothing to do with HLG – it's all on Samsung. So this is where it gets interesting.

An increase in forward voltage from 51.0V to 58.8V at the same 2.2A current is over 15%. That really doesn't make any sense to me, because I have never seen such a large variance in voltage due to temperature. Indeed, if you look at the LM301H datasheet, there is only a 3% drop in forward voltage from 25-85C, yet Samsung says there is a 15% potential difference in forward voltage at the same current!

So that brings us to voltage bins. The only thing I can think of is that Samsung are throwing any old voltage bins on these boards, because the LM301H bins range from 2.6-2.9V each – which is still only an 11.5% difference. But if add the 3% temp variation in there, then we get close to 15%.

I am not saying this is the case, but there does not appear to be any other explanation as to why there is such a wide variance in forward voltage at the same current.

Basically, if you're confused by this then so am I

View attachment 5240975

This is my problem with this datasheet. Usually they state operating voltages at different drive currents.
This one is not helpful

 

[Prawn Connery]

Just so don’t fuck up lmao this is the one correct? Lmao View attachment 5241000

That's the one. Same as @Boatguy 's

 

[SaHt420]

That's the one. Same as @Boatguy 's

View attachment 5241002

Nice

 

[Rocket Soul]

Just so don’t fuck up lmao this is the one correct? Lmao View attachment 5241000

Tbh im not sure now, sombody said the boards are 58V, i dont know the datasheet which wouldnt fit on this driver. 58+58 is over 114v which is upper limit of this driver.

 

[ANC]

The HLG-320 AB models are the only drivers I have seen without a Vo dial compared to the A models. And I have worked with most of the ELG and HLG range. I don't know why Mean Well does this.

The XLGs are the other models that only have a current dial, but the XLGs behave more like a constant power driver than a CC or CV driver (even though all Mean Wells are technically CC drivers). They are a different animal and I don't like them because when you crank up the current dial too much they go into limp mode. They can also sit at very high currents just before limp mode, which leads to failure.

I do agree having a Vo dial gives you more options to voltage limit LEDs – especially when wired in parallel (because voltage limiting also current limits) – but it can be a PIA when customers start playing with it and wonder why their LEDs are not behaving well. Vo dials are really only good for setting hard limits when LED boards and strips are wired in parallel or the driver is too big for the application, and then it offers added insurance.

But in reality, I don't think it's that useful when you match the correct driver to the LED application, because you should really only be adjusting the current when you dim up and down. It's the current, after all, that drives everything.

my first LED grow was with 50 odd COBs, I remember those hated undervoltage... had to leave drivers set to max, and use current for dimming.

 

[Boatguy]

Tbh im not sure now, sombody said the boards are 58V, i dont know the datasheet which wouldnt fit on this driver. 58+58 is over 114v which is upper limit of this driver.

I can assure you.. Been running it this way for a year or so without issue.
I started a similar thread last January

qb 648 questions

So, I have a diy 2 board diablo lamp. Originally i had it in a 2x2.5' tent, but i picked up a 3x3 for alittle more space. I foolishly went and just bought the recommended driver on hlg's site without double checking specs, and just assumed the 320h-2100 would give me 320w or so. I am sure...

www.rollitup.org

 

[Prawn Connery]

Tbh im not sure now, sombody said the boards are 58V, i dont know the datasheet which wouldnt fit on this driver. 58+58 is over 114v which is upper limit of this driver.

Real-world info there. I'm guessing 331W at the wall is maxed out? 56V x 2 (112V) x 2.8A = 313.6W / 94% driver efficiency = 333.6W or thereabouts.

I reckon they must be pretty close to 56V @ 2.8A based on the above. Or @Boatguy could have 57V @ around 2.7A per board if voltage limited. Either way, it seems pretty close to what the OP wants.

 

[SaHt420]

I reckon they must be pretty close to 56V @ 2.8A based on the above. Or @Boatguy could have 57V @ around 2.7A per board if voltage limited. Either way, it seems pretty close to what the OP wants.

Exactly thanks guys