Changed my driver to double the power but light doesn’t seem any brighter?

SaHt420

Well-Known Member
I went from a hlg-150h-54 running two qb648 diablos. I upgraded to a hlg-320h-c2100b an with light at same location full power the ppfd has gone down if anything. Ig I’ll just lower the light and dim it but if the 150 was brighter I should have stuck with it
 

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Boatguy

Well-Known Member
I went from a hlg-150h-54 running two qb648 diablos. I upgraded to a hlg-320h-c2100b an with light at same location full power the ppfd has gone down if anything. Ig I’ll just lower the light and dim it but if the 150 was brighter I should have stuck with it
I had the same issue.. because of the driver specs and the lights draw, you wont see better than 250w.
This driver fixed the problem
 

SaHt420

Well-Known Member
I bought this one after I bought the 150w I guess it’s only in a 32”x32” so 250watt should be plenty huu
 

SaHt420

Well-Known Member
Fuck I already used the driver so I have to keep it lol what light set up would this driver run optimally
 

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
I was just as pissed as you.. I saw the driver max output and hit the buy button.
$100 more got me the right driver
 

SaHt420

Well-Known Member
I was just as pissed as you.. I saw the driver max output and hit the buy button.
$100 more got me the right driver
So you use the same set up? Could you send a pic of the watt meter lol I’m not doing this again lmao
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
I run in parallel also if that makes difference. View attachment 5240785
I think imma go with the hlg-320h-c2800b after I see boatguys tomorrow
That's your problem right there. The HLG driver recommendations are for LED panels run in series, not parallel.

Running in parallel means you are only using 56V or less and the current is divided between each board. When you run in series you double the voltage but get full current to each board.

Wire them in series and report back.

And in future, if you want to run in parallel, use a constant voltage driver like you had originally – HLG-320H-54V for example – or re-wire your boards in series. That HLG-320H-C2100B is not designed to power 56V LEDs as the constant current region is 76-152V, so when they are wired in series (56V + 56V = 112V) they will be right where you want them to be.

BTW, 112V x 2.1A = 235W (series) whereas 56V x 2.1A = 117W (parallel). Those QB648s won't be drawing 56V at such a low current, so I'd guess you are probably only drawing 80-100W from the wall. So yes, you are getting less power from that 320W drvier than from your original 150W driver.
 
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Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
That's your problem right there. The HLG driver recommendations are for LED panels run in series, not parallel.

Running in parallel means you are only using 56V or less and the current is divided between each board. When you run in series you double the voltage but get full current to each board.

Wire them in series and report back.

And in future, if you want to run in parallel, use a constant voltage driver like you had originally – HLG-320H-54V for example – or re-wire your boards in series. That HLG-320H-C2100B is not designed to power 56V LEDs as the constant current region is 76-152V, so when they are wired in series (56V + 56V = 112V) they will be right where you want them to be.

BTW, 112V x 2.1A = 235W (series) whereas 56V x 2.1A = 117W (parallel). Those QB648s won't be drawing 56V at such a low current, so I'd guess you are probably only drawing 80-100W from the wall. So yes, you are getting less power from that 320W drvier than from your original 150W driver.
Winner winner chicken dinner. OP needs a HLG320H-C2800 (series) or parallel with HLG320-C54A: the A version is able to adjust voltage up to get to 56V, a B version with external dim will only get to 54 and throttle current. I never heard about a V version though, whats the score on that one or is this an error?
 

SaHt420

Well-Known Member
That's your problem right there. The HLG driver recommendations are for LED panels run in series, not parallel.

Running in parallel means you are only using 56V or less and the current is divided between each board. When you run in series you double the voltage but get full current to each board.

Wire them in series and report back.

And in future, if you want to run in parallel, use a constant voltage driver like you had originally – HLG-320H-54V for example – or re-wire your boards in series. That HLG-320H-C2100B is not designed to power 56V LEDs as the constant current region is 76-152V, so when they are wired in series (56V + 56V = 112V) they will be right where you want them to be.

BTW, 112V x 2.1A = 235W (series) whereas 56V x 2.1A = 117W (parallel). Those QB648s won't be drawing 56V at such a low current, so I'd guess you are probably only drawing 80-100W from the wall. So yes, you are getting less power from that 320W drvier than from your original 150W driver.
What would I be looking at for power wise wiring in series with the 320h-c2100? And would you be able show me a quick diagram on how to wire in series
 

SaHt420

Well-Known Member
The boards specs say 56+Vdc so does that mean it will draw more Vdc then 56 per board? sense the driver goes to 152vdc 2100mA would it be able to draw more voltage per board at 2100mA pulling in end more wattage? Or will it still be limited by the driver I have now ?5464FF6D-179D-458D-A917-DD7B7290CCF9.png
 
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