NFTG. Nectar For The Gods

bubba73

Well-Known Member
I typically grow for quality. But if I can achieve quality as well as quantity, I would enjoy doing that as well. Does Nectar of the Gods give me the same quality and increase my quantity?
be nothing like salts with weight … can’t have both it’s either quality or guantity .. not gonna grow “ donkey dicks “ again who wants too … don’t get me wrong you can get some weight too , but nothing like salts …
 

bubba73

Well-Known Member
How many weeks of veg is the Roman regimen built for?
lol…. Depends how you look at it … seedling , early , mid , late ….each stage can be a two week growth … so seedling be your 1st set of leaves , true leaves … early can be up to the 4 th set of leafs , mid be 4th set to six / 7th set, late can be 7th set till you start flower , depends how there eating can be adding an extra 5 ml in late veg , it all depends how you do it …. Can run a late veg for a week then flip , not set rules … or you can do a early feed , 1 week of mid , 1 week of late veg feed and flip 12/12 … the feed schedule is built for as many weeks as you want , not like flower where timing is everything .
 

bubba73

Well-Known Member
I don’t think it would matter as long as the lines were each run optimally. NFTG is organic, for all intents and purposes, just can’t carry the “official label” due to some mineral based calcium sources.
what it comes down to is your prefence , some are more labor intensive then others , you can run nectar in an organic garden same with cultured too … when I amend soil it’s organic just use the nutrients for the boost and microbes feed …. Side by side really can’t tell any difference , a lot has to do with the environment your in …
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
what it comes down to is your prefence , some are more labor intensive then others , you can run nectar in an organic garden same with cultured too … when I amend soil it’s organic just use the nutrients for the boost and microbes feed …. Side by side really can’t tell any difference , a lot has to do with the environment your in …
I was wondering how do you pH your BK when foliar feeding? I'm using distilled water so can't get a reading with my pH meter to pH before I add the BK so is it okay if I add the BK to the distilled water and then pH with Hades down? For some reason I stopped growing for a couple months and forgot how I do BK.
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
I typically grow for quality. But if I can achieve quality as well as quantity, I would enjoy doing that as well. Does Nectar of the Gods give me the same quality and increase my quantity?
I mean if you go back and look at our pictures we're getting decent weight with great quality I'm realizing it's more about keeping your plant as healthy as you can not trying to slam it with a bunch of stuff. But then again I'm slamming it with a bunch of stuff also LOL
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
lol…. Depends how you look at it … seedling , early , mid , late ….each stage can be a two week growth … so seedling be your 1st set of leaves , true leaves … early can be up to the 4 th set of leafs , mid be 4th set to six / 7th set, late can be 7th set till you start flower , depends how there eating can be adding an extra 5 ml in late veg , it all depends how you do it …. Can run a late veg for a week then flip , not set rules … or you can do a early feed , 1 week of mid , 1 week of late veg feed and flip 12/12 … the feed schedule is built for as many weeks as you want , not like flower where timing is everything .
Okay got it. I was just asking because this time I'm going to be having a bunch of different size plants
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
I made the mistake of buying all these cheap TDS meters over the last couple years and they all read different I have no idea what the hell the PPM of my water is. 1 reads 210 PPM one reads 116 PPM. Last time I did cut my water with 1/3 distilled water and everything ran fine. F*** I need to figure out the PPM of my water without having to buy an expensive TDs meter
 

Dothraki

Well-Known Member
I made the mistake of buying all these cheap TDS meters over the last couple years and they all read different I have no idea what the hell the PPM of my water is. 1 reads 210 PPM one reads 116 PPM. Last time I did cut my water with 1/3 distilled water and everything ran fine. F*** I need to figure out the PPM of my water without having to buy an expensive TDs meter
They have strips for fish tanks. Those will give you a real good idea, it’s what I used before the truncheon. In my case, high alkalinity caused by the calcium carbonate in my water. So my PPM is 350 or .5 EC and PH is 8.2-8.4

If your PH is around 7.5 or lower out of the tap it’s probably not too high in PPM…they are sorta related in that way. But if PH is like 8 then you have high PPM most likely.
 

Dothraki

Well-Known Member
It’s wierd… one plant is on the money, another is looking burnt and deficient and starting to fade…the other is looking like it reacted the worst.

So is NFTG and my setup only good for certain genetics? Seems the gassy strains are doing better than the fruity ones.

Purple tips and serrated edges, looks a little deficient as well
22648E11-7717-441F-B1EB-AA0215440C9E.jpeg


Yellow burnt tips
9796CE97-3DE3-4FDD-9D03-81C78487CF3F.jpeg


Complete depletion starting at lowest leaves for this one

1215CFF4-F9E3-413A-B4D3-585D44929717.jpeg

Only in 4th week of flower. all from seed. Fem photoperiods

After some digging I’ve seen this happen quite a bit with NFTG. Burnt tips and what appears to be nutrient deficiencies. My assumption is that maybe you need the right water for this line if running LED. I use tap with high PPM, alkalinity, PH. What do you guys think? @bubba73 does any of this look familiar in your experience?
 

Dothraki

Well-Known Member
The yellowing from bottom up is nitrogen deficiency. Start adding some Pegasus Potion to your mix. The other pics look typical for NFTG.
I don’t have Pegasus… but 1 plant is nice and dark green, I’m thinking I’m locked out due to high PH. Wish there was a way to slurry without digging into the soil and rip roots up…but then again, maybe I should sacrifice a plant to save the others, at least it would tell me the trend at the roots.

How much Olympus Up do you use with your feedings? Like 1/4 teaspoon?
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
I don’t have Pegasus… but 1 plant is nice and dark green, I’m thinking I’m locked out due to high PH. Wish there was a way to slurry without digging into the soil and rip roots up…but then again, maybe I should sacrifice a plant to save the others, at least it would tell me the trend at the roots.

How much Olympus Up do you use with your feedings? Like 1/4 teaspoon?
Yeah man I think it's just nitrogen deficiency. When the schedule says to reduce Medusa's from mid to late flower I've had yellowing before and added Pegasus and it fixed it. your pH could be out of whack and could be such a simple fix don't get rid of it. A lot of the time by the end of flower for me all my leaves arent green anymore but week 4 is way too early.
 

Dothraki

Well-Known Member
Yeah man I think it's just nitrogen deficiency. When the schedule says to reduce Medusa's from mid to late flower I've had yellowing before and added Pegasus and it fixed it. your pH could be out of whack and could be such a simple fix don't get rid of it. A lot of the time by the end of flower for me all my leaves arent green anymore but week 4 is way too early.
I think the carbonates in my water are causing the soil PH to climb, in testing mode right now with the water situation, If I can nail down whether it’s trending up or down I’ll be good….just figuring it out without going digging is the hard part lol. So trial step one is keeping PH low with feeds while reducing the EC of the starting water. If they improve then I can let the PH go back up for feeds.

Same thing happened last grow…with synthetics. 8.4ph .5 EC tap water ‍♂
 
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