How I accelerate fade in soil

OldMedUser said:
It looks good and has some science behind it. I already forget to water my plants often enough so may not see any difference. :D

journals.ashs.org

Increasing Inflorescence Dry Weight and Cannabinoid Content in Medical Cannabis Using Controlled Drought Stress

Controlled application of drought can increase secondary metabolite concentrations in some essential oil-producing crops. To evaluate the effects of drought on cannabis (Cannabis sativa L.) inflorescence dry weight and cannabinoid content, drought stress was applied to container-grown cannabis...
journals.ashs.org journals.ashs.org

:peace:
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I've been playing around with this too. Saw it on reddit, some commercial grower dude called it a Dryback, which is apparently a subcategory of Crop Steering. The last 2 weeks before chop, I let em get real dry a few times before watering. Seems to stimulate terps and frost. Need to mess with it more tho...
 
budtoker221 said:
the base nutes I was using here had magnesium sulfur and calcium but not zinc boron iron etc
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I had a boron deficiency at one time and looked up how to fix that. You can use a bit of good old 20 Mule Team borax or, and better imo, go to the drug store and buy a small container of boric acid. A tsp to 5gal is plenty as the plants need such a tiny amount.

I take Zn for prostate issues so once in a while I'll grind up a few of those along with other stuff to give the plants a bit. Just have to shake the jug between each pour tho most of what's floating around in there is the fillers used to make the tabs. If you use CalMag it has extra iron usually.

I had some but don't know where it got to but you can get Frittered trace elements and mix a bit of that in your medium for slow release micros. Again, not a lot and best if you reuse your medium. As I'm using a lot of organics now I'm trying to recycle a bit.

:peace:
 
I know what you mean they do look very dark green as if maybe too much nitrogen however if you look at the new leaves there is a slight yellow shade there. And all the leaves took on more of that yellow tone a week later since I didn’t feed them too much N after this pic was taken.
I have a bad habit of over feeding my plants N and sometimes it’s obvious like all the leaves staying dark green at harvest that’s why I must rely on drastic measures like OPs new strategy here.
[/QUOTE]
Yellowing on new growth is an immobile nutrient.
 
Ime, all your doing by giving plain water, is taking nutrient from the leaves and putting them into the bud. Either way, the plant is looking to give as many nutrients to the buds as possible, so you're not really getting rid of them. Only in the leaves, which you're not smoking anyways.....I hope.
 
OldMedUser said:
I had a boron deficiency at one time and looked up how to fix that. You can use a bit of good old 20 Mule Team borax or, and better imo, go to the drug store and buy a small container of boric acid. A tsp to 5gal is plenty as the plants need such a tiny amount.

I take Zn for prostate issues so once in a while I'll grind up a few of those along with other stuff to give the plants a bit. Just have to shake the jug between each pour tho most of what's floating around in there is the fillers used to make the tabs. If you use CalMag it has extra iron usually.

I had some but don't know where it got to but you can get Frittered trace elements and mix a bit of that in your medium for slow release micros. Again, not a lot and best if you reuse your medium. As I'm using a lot of organics now I'm trying to recycle a bit.

:peace:
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Frittered trace elements huh? I’ll have to look into that thanks.
 
What if you girdled the main branches, or even the whole plant, just above the soil line. A few weeks before harvest. As in, cutting\peeling away the outer bark layers, all the way around, but leaving the inner xylem intact, so it can still transport water up to the buds. If i remember right, it is the outer layers of a branch that transport most of the other elements and whatnot.

After all, many of us agree plants don't flush anything out, so what would cutting off the skin a few weeks early harm?

Like taking an air layer clone, but not actually waiting for roots, because you will be harvesting those branches in a few weeks instead..


I've never attempted to clone a ripe branch with full on colas that way, but i'm thinking it might be another way to force extreme fade towards the tail end of a grow, and without completely locking out the roots via PH levels...

Kind of like that cola branch you accidentally break sometimes, but you leave it dangling there, and it starts fading fast as it dies off. Then you get some good early sample product to test out. ;)


I'll try it on the next run, on a few sections.
 
Drop That Sound said:
What if you girdled the main branches, or even the whole plant, just above the soil line. A few weeks before harvest. As in, cutting\peeling away the outer bark layers, all the way around, but leaving the inner xylem intact, so it can still transport water up to the buds. If i remember right, it is the outer layers of a branch that transport most of the other elements and whatnot.

After all, many of us agree plants don't flush anything out, so what would cutting off the skin a few weeks early harm?

Like taking an air layer clone, but not actually waiting for roots, because you will be harvesting those branches in a few weeks instead..


I've never attempted to clone a ripe branch with full on colas that way, but i'm thinking it might be another way to force extreme fade towards the tail end of a grow, and without completely locking out the roots via PH levels...

Kind of like that cola branch you accidentally break sometimes, but you leave it dangling there, and it starts fading fast as it dies off. Then you get some good early sample product to test out. ;)


I'll try it on the next run, on a few sections.
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Bro science called. It wants your idea back.

What if… you put a stake through the main trunk??? Oh wait.
 
budrock61 said:
Common method is plain water last 2 weeks of flower.

But if the soil is still too hot, or the plant is just stubborn, I simply PH the plain water down to under 4.0. That low of PH causes nutrient lockout, and accelerates fade.

Tried it on three runs so far with great results. Try it, you might like it.
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I can't try it, locking out my soil in my beds would be pointless.
I run outdoor with inground beds, there is no way you are flushing this bed without really damaging the micro life and bringing that ph down that low would spell disaster for future crops..
 
Playk328 said:
I can't try it, locking out my soil in my beds would be pointless.
I run outdoor with inground beds, there is no way you are flushing this bed without really damaging the micro life and bringing that ph down that low would spell disaster for future crops..
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I grow no till. I can't flush, or stop feeding. I have cover crop growing when I don't have a plant growing.
 
Playk328 said:
I can't try it, locking out my soil in my beds would be pointless.
I run outdoor with inground beds, there is no way you are flushing this bed without really damaging the micro life and bringing that ph down that low would spell disaster for future crops..
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You need to use cold I don't see how else you could do something to remotely influence the mineralization.
The electro culture could also work, but it could do also a lot of damage to the roots or substrate.
The senescence is mostly temperatur dependant anyway
 
twentyeight.threefive said:
So you’ve tried it and tested the results? Oh wait you’re on your first actual grow that you can’t get a handle on it. Maybe you can cry to the admins and get me blocked on this thread too.
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no you just use your head to imagine what happens when you rip the xylem apart

you need to stop telling lies and shut tf up with yout dumb prococation and toxicity within threads lmao
 
Last time I hooked up alligator clips with 9 volts, it caused crazy genetic mutations, 14 prong leaves, and.. what would the name for polypoidism (extra chromosomes right?) be, but with 10 bud sites intstead of 2? A cyst " i forgot the term for the mutation) formed at the site where the electrodes were hooked up, and it shot out 10 branches that had the mutations..
 
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