Looking for Some Organic Options

[Playk328]

Just keep it simple, there is no need in overthinking things or mixing too much stuff up.. Here is a very easy mix that is almost full proof.

1 3.8 bale compressed ProMix HP with myco
1 20 litre bag of worm castings
9 cups Gaia Green All Purpose
"I use eggshell powder for calcium"
I also use alfalfa pellets that I buy from a feed store

Moisten and let this mix sit for about 3-4 weeks, you will see a nice web start to form.

You would use Gaia 2-8-4 for flowering..

General mix rates are 1 cup of Gaia per 5 gallons of soil, this is to pre mix.. When you top dress it will be 1/2 that amount. Very simple, very affective.

 

[twentyeight.threefive]

Just keep it simple, there is no need in overthinking things or mixing too much stuff up.. Here is a very easy mix that is almost full proof.

1 3.8 bale compressed ProMix HP with myco
1 20 litre bag of worm castings
9 cups Gaia Green All Purpose
"I use eggshell powder for calcium"
I also use alfalfa pellets that I buy from a feed store

Moisten and let this mix sit for about 3-4 weeks, you will see a nice web start to form.

You would use Gaia 2-8-4 for flowering..

General mix rates are 1 cup of Gaia per 5 gallons of soil, this is to pre mix.. When you top dress it will be 1/2 that amount. Very simple, very affective.

Where’s the langbeinite?

 

[Playk328]

I've never used langbeinite, I have not even seen at any of my local stores.. I was reading its good for magnesium, potassium and it also has sulfur in it? I have greensand that I am using which is also good for those things and also dolomite lime with some epsom salt if needed.

 

[twentyeight.threefive]

I've never used langbeinite, I have not even seen at any of my local stores.. I was reading its good for magnesium, potassium and it also has sulfur in it? I have greensand that I am using which is also good for those things and also dolomite lime with some epsom salt if needed.

It’s also good because it’s water soluable and flushable.

 

[Playk328]

I do a lot of my growing with in-ground beds, flushing a bed that is 13ft long, 5ft wide and 4ft deep may be next to impossible, not to mention if I attempted to flush these beds I would be drowning them out and killing my soil life.. I just water normally until harvest.

 

[twentyeight.threefive]

I do a lot of my growing with in-ground beds, flushing a bed that is 13ft long, 5ft wide and 4ft deep may be next to impossible, not to mention if I attempted to flush these beds I would be drowning them out and killing my soil life.. I just water normally until harvest.

That’s what you should do. Sorry about that it was a bit of sarcasm for someone else.

 

[Playk328]

Maybe langbeinite would be a good to use for blueberries? With dolomite it buffers the ph, but langbeinite does not add to soil acidity or alkalinity, maybe better to use this for tomatoes and blueberries perhaps.

 

[Kushthemagictree]

Too bad. I liked the sig. It showed who the real troll is.

I just mentioned Langbeinite as an example. It's actually in tons of mixes and lots of us use it. You just know nothing about this topic, but want to pretend you do.

The Gaia is pretty soluble too. They even mention using it as a tea. Check out the analysis.

Guaranteed Minimum Analysis

• Total Nitrogen (N)……….......…....…4.0%
• Water Soluble Nitrogen (N)...............3.0%
• Water Insoluble Nitrogen (N)............1.0%
• Available Phosphoric Acid (P₂O₅).....4.0%
• Soluble Potash (K₂O) ………….……4.0%

Nothing wrong with these products and its entirely up to others what they choose and why they choose the products they do. I see many totally over killing it with organics and spending a fortune on a ton of soil amendments,

think once you clued up on what plants need you can work around that and decide whats enough, whats ok to go with out and also whats not worth the money, i use a product called charge and it saves me adding a ton of soil amendments, i’m also aware my soil could better but all sorts of things can be better and we dealing with hardy weeds that metabalise what they need and dont need.

 

[Kushthemagictree]

Maybe langbeinite would be a good to use for blueberries? With dolomite it buffers the ph, but langbeinite does not add to soil acidity or alkalinity, maybe better to use this for tomatoes and blueberries perhaps.

Ive had good luck with 1:1 Coco or peat mixed with good quality compost as a base. EWC, Biochar, Nerm/kelp and coconut meal, basalt dust as amendments.

I usually add 1 cup each of Neem, kelp and coconut meal, a few cups biochar and half a cup basalt per 30L. I'll add a few tbsp microbe boost (4-1-1) to activate it and let it sit for a week or so and then mix it with uxp pumice, rough limestone and zeolite for aeration.

i’m still recycling old soil from 2/3 grows ago, i set out with coco and soil few grows ago but it was one of the worst with so many issues, my lack of understanding in organics also come in to play but it was also a massive learning curve, the soil now is well diluted with the coco which is ok and where it needs to be.

i’ll be re using again for next grow and allready thinking ahead,current soil ok but not fluffy enough for my liking so i’ll reamend with some rice hulls or another product but i’ll also be close to that no till type of way.
Never been too keen on adding limestone in to mine or the bio char as read some comflicting information on both so dodge them haha, i think i read the bio char can contain too much carbon, could be wrong tho and again depends on amounts used, alot is trial and error and what works for one might not for another for various reasons

 

[PadawanWarrior]

i’m still recycling old soil from 2/3 grows ago, i set out with coco and soil few grows ago but it was one of the worst with so many issues, my lack of understanding in organics also come in to play but it was also a massive learning curve, the soil now is well diluted with the coco which is ok and where it needs to be.

i’ll be re using again for next grow and allready thinking ahead,current soil ok but not fluffy enough for my liking so i’ll reamend with some rice hulls or another product but i’ll also be close to that no till type of way.
Never been too keen on adding limestone in to mine or the bio char as read some comflicting information on both so dodge them haha, i think i read the bio char can contain too much carbon, could be wrong tho and again depends on amounts used, alot is trial and error and what works for one might not for another for various reasons

My soil's about 4 years old now. Basically no-till, but I've only got it in 15 gal pots and no cover crop. I just use rice hulls as a mulch.

I'm not a fan of limestone either. Bio Char is good stuff as long as it's charged, and you don't use a bunch.

 

[Kushthemagictree]

My soil's about 4 years old now. Basically no-till, but I've only got it in 15 gal pots and no cover crop. I just use rice hulls as a mulch.

I'm not a fan of limestone either. Bio Char is good stuff as long as it's charged, and you don't use a bunch.

Yeah i heard its a good amendment also heard some negatives towards it but think it was also about being more cautious on the actuall amount,
4 years man.. thats good going lol i’m hoping i’m doing the same thing going forward,i know my next one which i planning on start end of this week ( veg ) ill be adding in rice hulls to help even it out, i want to be repotting the vegged new plants as i take my current grow down

thinking a mix of blue dream and this grandaddypurp strain and maybe 2/3 mystery cheese strains. Its a new supplier online i’m looking at so still in two minds, reviews seem ok aswell and seeds pretty good value

outletuk they called ton of value there just hope they not poor seeds

 

[PadawanWarrior]

Yeah i heard its a good amendment also heard some negatives towards it but think it was also about being more cautious on the actuall amount,
4 years man.. thats good going lol i’m hoping i’m doing the same thing going forward,i know my next one which i planning on start end of this week ( veg ) ill be adding in rice hulls to help even it out, i want to be repotting the vegged new plants as i take my current grow down

thinking a mix of blue dream and this grandaddypurp strain and maybe 2/3 mystery cheese strains. Its a new supplier online i’m looking at so still in two minds, reviews seem ok aswell and seeds pretty good value

outletuk they called ton of value there just hope they not poor seeds

Both Langbeinite and Bio Char are great, but they're to be respected.

I'm still learning. I've never had my soil tested, but I will one day. It would help a lot to know the actual nute levels. I've just been guessing and adjusting based on what I see. I've also been trying lots of different stuff. I like rice hulls too, but they will break down by the microbes and stuff. I figure my plants should get enough Si from the hulls, but I've been tempted to try adding more and seeing what happens.

 

[EvansInUK]

Isn't there a ban on peat taking effect in 2024 for most gardeners over there in the UK? If so you probably would want to look into mixes that don't contain peat if you're not going to be able to get it in the future.

Oh no idea, guys please argue somewhere else snd keep this board open for actual help please. Thank you

 

[EvansInUK]

My idea was this after looking online and just a general idea

pete moss (for now anyway) + a soil enhancer (its organic compost with 20% biochar) this would just be for the seedling mostly. Worm castings and soft rock phosphate for phosphorus. Vermiculite purely because seed will be put into one large pot from start to finish (I hope) and I read (not sure how accurate, but seedlings are easier with vermiculite)

i was planning on trying to get my hands on either a micro nutrient (liquid non organic) just for it's 5-0-1 formula to provide micro nutes and a form of nitrogen, or skip it for an actual organic 2-0-6 product. But this would be difficult to get my hands on. I have asked if they'd ship me their 2.5 gallons. But I want to rip the fan leaves off,and I heard I need to put all the micro nutrients back from the fan leaves, which leaves me wondering how to help get all the micro nutrients in (which is where I read kelp powder - nutrients are readily available and has many trace elements and micro elements) I just dont know which ones exactly, and grown in an air pot around 2.5-3 gallons. I got full spec led hlg 260w v2 at 4k and 15% blue spectrum in it, so its ideal.

 

[Kushthemagictree]

Both Langbeinite and Bio Char are great, but they're to be respected.

I'm still learning. I've never had my soil tested, but I will one day. It would help a lot to know the actual nute levels. I've just been guessing and adjusting based on what I see. I've also been trying lots of different stuff. I like rice hulls too, but they will break down by the microbes and stuff. I figure my plants should get enough Si from the hulls, but I've been tempted to try adding more and seeing what happens.

Think thats the best way just keeping an eye on plants see how they respond, i know in this run i’ve seen some pretty rapid growth so plants are pretty happy, i also get that praying look daily with also leafs pointing slightly up after a few hours of light,

think i might add in some small amounts of bio char and the rice hulls when i amend this soil after this run.
Have you grow diary added on here mate ? Just out of intrest ?

 

[Kushthemagictree]

My idea was this after looking online and just a general idea

pete moss (for now anyway) + a soil enhancer (its organic compost with 20% biochar) this would just be for the seedling mostly. Worm castings and soft rock phosphate for phosphorus. Vermiculite purely because seed will be put into one large pot from start to finish (I hope) and I read (not sure how accurate, but seedlings are easier with vermiculite)

i was planning on trying to get my hands on either a micro nutrient (liquid non organic) just for it's 5-0-1 formula to provide micro nutes and a form of nitrogen, or skip it for an actual organic 2-0-6 product. But this would be difficult to get my hands on. I have asked if they'd ship me their 2.5 gallons. But I want to rip the fan leaves off,and I heard I need to put all the micro nutrients back from the fan leaves, which leaves me wondering how to help get all the micro nutrients in (which is where I read kelp powder - nutrients are readily available and has many trace elements and micro elements) I just dont know which ones exactly, and grown in an air pot around 2.5-3 gallons. I got full spec led hlg 260w v2 at 4k and 15% blue spectrum in it, so its ideal.

Stronger Plants with Amino Acids

Amino acids are the building blocks of cells in both humans and plants. The best source of amino acids for humans is from plants.

www.growerssecret.com

i read up on this early on to help me with the organic method and to get a better understanding on the nuances of organics, whats needed and what isnt, once you understand this and what the microbes need dont need ect it helped me wittle on down for amendments, i found i can skip some of the soil amendment additives and use another product which is quicker and less expensive, getting the amino’s in their is also important, i
Also found some of the products i used for the gnats also had beneficials in there that actually helps the plants like the desi dust which contains silica which is good for stronger stems and overall plant health. I’m still learning though and theres loads out there, i just try and make sure i have pretty active pot for microbes, along the way i ditched the cal mag additive as i knew for what went in to pots that my plants wouldnt need it. We can add all these diffrent products in to feed/pots liquad ferts ect but if you not doing certain specifics then plants just lock up and havnt the ability to take up what we providing which is another thing i learned along the way.

 

[Rurumo]

I've experimented a lot with bio char in mixes, and I love it, but in small amounts. Each bio-char brand varies in how alkaline it is, depending on the wood used, and other aspects of the pyrolysis process, but typically bio-char is highly alkaline at 8+ ph. I like to soak it in fish hydrolysate for a week then you're good to add it, but don't go over 5% of the total mix as bio-char. The high alkalinity makes it a great addition to peat based mixes, but it does add something to a coco grow too at 1% to 5% of a mix. The main reason I add it is because rhizobacteria love it, and even at 1% of a mix, it creates so many tiny oasis where bacteria can thrive-not that they don't already thrive in coco or peat, we're just talking about the internal surface area of bio-char that gives it such special properties. I like earthworm castings for a similar reason-not for their nutritive value, but for their value in spreading beneficial bacteria/fungi through the media.

 

[VincenzioVonHook]

I've experimented a lot with bio char in mixes, and I love it, but in small amounts. Each bio-char brand varies in how alkaline it is, depending on the wood used, and other aspects of the pyrolysis process, but typically bio-char is highly alkaline at 8+ ph. I like to soak it in fish hydrolysate for a week then you're good to add it, but don't go over 5% of the total mix as bio-char. The high alkalinity makes it a great addition to peat based mixes, but it does add something to a coco grow too at 1% to 5% of a mix. The main reason I add it is because rhizobacteria love it, and even at 1% of a mix, it creates so many tiny oasis where bacteria can thrive-not that they don't already thrive in coco or peat, we're just talking about the internal surface area of bio-char that gives it such special properties. I like earthworm castings for a similar reason-not for their nutritive value, but for their value in spreading beneficial bacteria/fungi through the media.

Couldn't agree more when it comes to microbial activity. I second a max of 5%. I've seen recommendations to run biochar like perlite at 20%, but that seems far too much. I added 4 cups to my latest 30L mix and have to say its the first time I've had so much beneficial fungi and bacteria. A nice even fuzz of mycelium evenly distributed throughout the pot within two days of its first watering.

I've seen people using it at a rate similar to perlite and it does a bloody good job of leaching nitrogen from the mix, with most ending up assuming they have some form of ph or salt induced lockout. It can be detrimental if used wrong, but like anything, moderation is key. I have seen larger amounts successfully used to help with an overabundance of N, but i'd say that's the only reason I'd run more than 2.5% on average.

 

[xtsho]

Oh no idea, guys please argue somewhere else snd keep this board open for actual help please. Thank you

You must have me confused with someone else. Please look back through your thread and show me where I was arguing with anyone. I'm not involved in the bickering.

I made one comment pertaining to the upcoming ban on peat for amateur gardeners in the UK. I thought that my post had merit. 2024 is not that far off. Why focus on using a growing medium that you may not be able to acquire in the future? How is that arguing. You're worrying about making a peat based blend and in a matter of a couple grows you might not be able to get peat. You would be better off focusing on using ingredients that you will continue to have access to.

Anyway, good luck.

Plans to phase out the use of peat in the amateur horticulture sector

Government seeking views on a ban of the retail sale of peat in horticulture by end of this Parliament

www.gov.uk

Sales of peat compost to gardeners to be banned from 2024

Funding for restoration of peatlands and tripling of tree planting in England also announced

www.theguardian.com

 

[EvansInUK]

You must have me confused with someone else. Please look back through your thread and show me where I was arguing with anyone. I'm not involved in the bickering.

I made one comment pertaining to the upcoming ban on peat for amateur gardeners in the UK. I thought that my post had merit. 2024 is not that far off. Why focus on using a growing medium that you may not be able to acquire in the future? How is that arguing. You're worrying about making a peat based blend and in a matter of a couple grows you might not be able to get peat. You would be better off focusing on using ingredients that you will continue to have access to.

Anyway, good luck.

Plans to phase out the use of peat in the amateur horticulture sector

Government seeking views on a ban of the retail sale of peat in horticulture by end of this Parliament

www.gov.uk

Sales of peat compost to gardeners to be banned from 2024

Funding for restoration of peatlands and tripling of tree planting in England also announced

www.theguardian.com

man If you look at my quote, I had a full stop after your quote...., to which I then replied to "everyone else" saying..... please stop arguing, my first sentence of my previous quote was soley and purely replying to you about the comment you made of pete moss getting banned which did have merit yes. (Well it was a coma, not a full stop. But my thought process was the same)

But Why you thought that the rest of the post has anything to do with you is beyond me, I simply quoted your original comment and replied exactly with the words "Oh no idea". - then a coma at the end of the sentence meaning the conversation had ended. I then started a new sentence - pertaining to everyone else, didn't mean to make you think the rest was about you, I done it like that - (instead of making 2 posts) where i then said to everyone please stop arguing... and in all honestly I have not heard anything about pete moss in the uk getting banned, But I will google it and find out more about it thank you, now you mentioned it. I will just buy a couple bags and keep some for later lol.