Clone's keep failing.

Left thumb

Member
As anyone who has read my previous threads you will know I am growing in a shed, I've taken numerous clones and they've all failed except one which made it. I've tried to take a few more at the beginning of flower and they failed to. All cuttings dipped into clonex and into root riot plugs.
Could it be lack of heat which is causing the problem as they're under a single t5 light which is not the warmest, and this is being done in my shed also.
Would a small heatpad under the dome work? Or should I bring the dome and t5 into the house for a warmer temp room?
I have luck using a plant fir clines with 5 nodes at least i clone the hole plant cut it up to as big as pieces as i can
Poke hole in dirt in 16 oz cup fill hoke with water plant clone i scrap the bottom of stock to
 

yummy fur

Well-Known Member
Root riot cubes soaked in pH6 EC 0.6 cut the clone and plant straight into cube
I was just thinking today that if I still grew photoperiods that if I made a clone like you have done, then I could put that plug into an EasyPlug mini pyramid, then grow it as a cloning plant. If that's what you meant by 'slowing them down' not sure. I'm using the mini pyramids to grow mini auto flowers myself, but they'd make a great mother plant so I didn't have to take clones too close to flower.
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
I was just thinking today that if I still grew photoperiods that if I made a clone like you have done, then I could put that plug into an EasyPlug mini pyramid, then grow it as a cloning plant. If that's what you meant by 'slowing them down' not sure. I'm using the mini pyramids to grow mini auto flowers myself, but they'd make a great mother plant so I didn't have to take clones too close to flower.

that’s the point I don’t keep a mother.

this is one of the first times (outside of keeping an actual mother plant) that I’ve tried cloning, letting it root, then cutting the roots off and getting it to root again and then doing it again etc.


why wouldn’t you want to take a clone too close to flowering out of interest?

Don’t you do some pre flowering pruning or shaping etc?
 

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
Dude I take clones well into flower. Cut, scrape, stick in a 5.5 soaked tap water rockwool cube. Set on a plate with no fan for like 24 hrs, then add it to the plate with the rest of the clones and a weak fan. No gel, no dome, no heat. Just a white 5kish lightstrip and cheap 30 dollar amazon led grow light for light. Once your cutting shows its not gonna lay down and it's actually taking up water just feed it like the rest of your clones, but half strength for the first week. 99.9 I promise
 

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
Ok so in the front is a blueberry clone that was just taken in week 3 of flower, to the left of that is a grand mommy purp that just sprouted, next 2 that is a gorilla zkittlez taken in like week 6 of flower, the larger 2 are a mimosa orange punch and a white widow. The larger ones will go right into 5 gal net pots with hydroton over top. Then about 2 weeks to fill out and into flower. I dont spend much time on training clones, i tend to clone late to get thay crazy hedge like growth then control with my nets. Unfortunately those larger clones were taken in veg since they were new runs for me. I just stack blocks as roots grow. Now the lights. The one was a cheap amazon light from many moons ago. The other is 5k white lightstrip. Dude im in a apt, i use every corner i can. Not bragging by any means, saying i hardly try and have no issues Screenshot_20220517-173532_Chrome.jpg
 
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ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
What’s with all the rockwool rooting cubes?
1 part Laziness and 1 part space restricted. 1 part cheap. I have to get them to a decent size before I can put them into buckets. I cant have twice as many buckets lol. So I just add a new cube to the bottom when I see roots and once the roots have colonized like six blocks ill place into net pots. Just a easy way to let the plant grow and stay totally hydro the whole time and not have to deal with any root issues when going into the net pots.
 
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DrOgkush

Well-Known Member
1 part Laziness and 1 part space restricted. 1 part cheap. I have to get them to a decent size before I can put them into buckets. I cant have twice as many buckets lol. So I just add a new cube to the bottom when I see roots and once the roots have colonized like six blocks ill place into net pots. Just a easy way to let the plant grow and stay totally hydro the whole time and not have to deal with ant root issues when going into the net pots.
With the right ph and feed. You know you can grow in those cubes for quite some time?

I thought I was one of the last people to still use rockwool lol
 

Jjgrow420

Well-Known Member
I'm just trying grafting and it's looking promising.
View attachment 5134583
Old root ball from flowering with some fresh growth spliced on.
Funny I've been messing around with some grafting too. Want to try to flower 2+strains off one 'host' and see what happens
I did my pear tree with 5types of pears and they're doing great. It's really funny to see all the diff styles of pear tree and pears growing off one tree. Gave me the idea to give it a go with weed
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
Funny I've been messing around with some grafting too. Want to try to flower 2+strains off one 'host' and see what happens
I did my pear tree with 5types of pears and they're doing great. It's really funny to see all the diff styles of pear tree and pears growing off one tree. Gave me the idea to give it a go with weed
I've got plans to make a tri pheno mother but I'm only at the testing stages just now.

I've done a bit reading about it apparently with apples it's the root stock that dictates the fruit size and height, toake dwarf cherries the graft to some root stock that prevents them ever growing big.

I'm pissed because I've just chucked out a nice yielding stalky root stock, I'd like to try grafting a tall af star dog for example and a short stalky skunk special to see if the root keeps the star dog compact.

It's all a bit if, maybe, could be atm but give me time I'll work through it :-)
 

Jjgrow420

Well-Known Member
I've got plans to make a tri pheno mother but I'm only at the testing stages just now.

I've done a bit reading about it apparently with apples it's the root stock that dictates the fruit size and height, toake dwarf cherries the graft to some root stock that prevents ever growing big.

I'm pissed because I've just chucked out a nice yielding stalky root stock, I'd like to try grafting a tall af star dog for example and a short stalky skunk special to see if the root keeps the star dog compact.

It's all a bit if, maybe, could be atm but give me time I'll work through it :-)
I have an auto coming down soon. Wonder what that would do. Lol. Graft some photos onto an auto....
Same here on the if maybes. It was really just a pet project I was tinkering with off and on
 

yummy fur

Well-Known Member
that’s the point I don’t keep a mother.

this is one of the first times (outside of keeping an actual mother plant) that I’ve tried cloning, letting it root, then cutting the roots off and getting it to root again and then doing it again etc.


why wouldn’t you want to take a clone too close to flowering out of interest?

Don’t you do some pre flowering pruning or shaping etc?
I found that young shoots produce better plants than when they get too woody, and if it near flowing they might have to flip back. having said that I did cut a stem off a fully flowering cannabis bush plant once, drove it 200 miles, put it in a jar of water then put in in some Rockwool with a drip and it did root fine and produced a fantastic garden plant almost as good as hydro.

But it's still better to cut fresh green shoots, in my experience. I predict that if you tried growing a mother in an eazy mini pyramid you will be hooked. It virtually looks after itself.
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
I found that young shoots produce better plants than when they get too woody, and if it near flowing they might have to flip back. having said that I did cut a stem off a fully flowering cannabis bush plant once, drove it 200 miles, put it in a jar of water then put in in some Rockwool with a drip and it did root fine and produced a fantastic garden plant almost as good as hydro.

But it's still better to cut fresh green shoots, in my experience. I predict that if you tried growing a mother in an eazy mini pyramid you will be hooked. It virtually looks after itself.
What's a mini pyramid?
I'm always open to low maintenance suggestions :-)
 
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jondamon

Well-Known Member
I found that young shoots produce better plants than when they get too woody, and if it near flowing they might have to flip back. having said that I did cut a stem off a fully flowering cannabis bush plant once, drove it 200 miles, put it in a jar of water then put in in some Rockwool with a drip and it did root fine and produced a fantastic garden plant almost as good as hydro.

But it's still better to cut fresh green shoots, in my experience. I predict that if you tried growing a mother in an eazy mini pyramid you will be hooked. It virtually looks after itself.
Near flowering is not the same as actually flowering and then if you take a clone during the first 2 weeks of flower you get a monster cropped clone which sends out crazy growth (in a good way)

As for the woody comment I get what you’re saying but there is always newer green growth to be able to take clones.

so sorry I don’t understand your description or reason as to why.

Edit
growing a mother in any way shape or form requires decent lighting to keep it healthy.

The way I’m doing it I use 24w of light to keep the clones I need going.

why would I utilise even more wattage than this when I’m already running wattage for flowering.
 
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