Is yellowing normal now that I'm flowering

McStrats

Well-Known Member
yeah sadly, but I feel like it still wasn't a waste to formulate these lengthy answers because other readers may catch them, and realize a plant treatment is not like a car repair :lol:
Is there a particular brand of bottle nutes you like for soil grows?
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
NPK Raw's feeding chart of individual nutrients says to cut out the nitrogen during flower, but the plants are still getting it from the calmag and traces of whatever else. So I would say this is accurate. Just enough to keep growth of the buds happening after the stretch I suppose.
is that on their website? or do you have a link?

Jack's also has a Finishing formula of 7-15-30 but it has no Ca either so i don't know how long a plant could go in bloom without Ca either? seems like you'd need cal nitrate which would bump the N back up anyway??
 

lusidghost

Well-Known Member
i'd love to know approx how many ppms of N in total there is from the cal/mg and kelp?? i doubt he broke down the analysis that much though.
I don't know about the kelp, but the calmag is 9 - 0 -0. I was thinking about switching to it during flower because jack's calnit is 15-0-0.
 

lusidghost

Well-Known Member
cutting edge makes a Ca additive that has no N in it. calcium chloride based (i think?). that might be a way to go too..
Someone, maybe you, brought that up a couple of weeks ago. That's pretty awesome. I'm not sure if I want to eliminate all of the nitrogen though. I don't run any additives, so I need to pick up that 20% from somewhere. At some point I want to make my own nutrient blends. I've never liked the chunkiness of brands that you only increase throughout the grow. I would like to reduce the N, and boost the PK in flower without adding it on top of what's already there. Breeding and DIY nutrients are my two eventual goals.
 

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
Is there a particular brand of bottle nutes you like for soil grows?
this is not at all where I want to position myself due to "advertising" bias etc

but I believe that a soil grow should be mostly organic, with as little as salts or acids used as necessary.

also, having a rich soil that contains feeds already in the form of dry amendments and bottles only for stimulating what's going on inside the pot, or pushing it into a specific region. like S Mg on the onset of frost to prevent some top pale, likewise P later.

Now if we increase specific ions in relation to the general formulae does that already imply a reduction of N? In one way - no - as the raw/netto feed of N is the same (or even more if we generally up EC from veg >> early flower >> mid flower.
But since ions exert a rivalry at the plasmalemma an increase of an anion could likely result in a decrease of nitrate for the plant physiologically.
There's so many different ways to look at these things. Also, this differentiation between veg & flower. Some grow-plans suggest upping PK booster at flower, which many will do right after going 12/12. Which I find totally wrong, the stretch phase resembles physiologically much more the veg phase, and due to the plants internal hormone boost, would require more of that (via +EC imo). A PK too early will just create deficiency/lock (see above), and then when I post in newbie sections about that gets oftentimes shit from hippies for "the evil N in flower" or "but the plan" from noobs. not reading the plant the fancy bottled schematic knows apparently better.

You see, when even the very definitions of simple terms vary then it's quite easy to turn ones own words around to imply what's not been wanted to be said...
 

McStrats

Well-Known Member
this is not at all where I want to position myself due to "advertising" bias etc

but I believe that a soil grow should be mostly organic, with as little as salts or acids used as necessary.

also, having a rich soil that contains feeds already in the form of dry amendments and bottles only for stimulating what's going on inside the pot, or pushing it into a specific region. like S Mg on the onset of frost to prevent some top pale, likewise P later.

Now if we increase specific ions in relation to the general formulae does that already imply a reduction of N? In one way - no - as the raw/netto feed of N is the same (or even more if we generally up EC from veg >> early flower >> mid flower.
But since ions exert a rivalry at the plasmalemma an increase of an anion could likely result in a decrease of nitrate for the plant physiologically.
There's so many different ways to look at these things. Also, this differentiation between veg & flower. Some grow-plans suggest upping PK booster at flower, which many will do right after going 12/12. Which I find totally wrong, the stretch phase resembles physiologically much more the veg phase, and due to the plants internal hormone boost, would require more of that (via +EC imo). A PK too early will just create deficiency/lock (see above), and then when I post in newbie sections about that gets oftentimes shit from hippies for "the evil N in flower" or "but the plan" from noobs. not reading the plant the fancy bottled schematic knows apparently better.

You see, when even the very definitions of simple terms vary then it's quite easy to turn ones own words around to imply what's not been wanted to be said...
Thanks.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure if I want to eliminate all of the nitrogen though
i'm running dyna gro bloom with cal/nit and epsom now. with kelp/humic mix too. i'm wondering if i cut out the cal/nit, will the 3-12-6 of the dyna gro along with the kelp be enough N? seeing that chart you put up makes me think maybe it will be enough. guess only one way to find out.
 
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