McShnutz's Muts [No-Till/ water only]

myke

Well-Known Member
I see you have just bark as mulch,do you scrape it back to add compost? Most no till I see have a good thick layer of mulch/food that they keep adding too.
 

McShnutz

Well-Known Member
Apparently one of my power supplies is on the outs. I had to unplug one of the supplies because the diodes are pulsing ON/OFF.
They will stay on 100% after about 24hrs being unplugged. I'm not a electrician so I can't diagnose the sole component that failing. I however can repair or replace. If anyone has knowledge about LED power supplies and retail sourcing, I'd love to hear about it.
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
Here we are today.
Flowering day 15

Plants (S1) look much happier. I'm very happy to see 9 bladed fans on the s1. She is taking everything I can throw at her and not missing a beat. First pic is of the F1, all others are S1.
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Hey looking nice there. I’ve used very similar setups. The only thing I could possible suggest to you is getting your blusoak hoses under the mulch layer. Better yet if your planning on going full no till you really need a living mulch for bed longevity.
Great stuff though!
 

McShnutz

Well-Known Member
I see you have just bark as mulch,do you scrape it back to add compost? Most no till I see have a good thick layer of mulch/food that they keep adding too.
It's cypress mulch. There's bark within the substrate, but probably completely composted by now. Browns need Nitrogen to decompose and its my way of N regulation. Almost a failsafe against N toxicity. But because it pulls it from the soil I do have to add back.

I usually add pockets of dry amendments under the soaker lines to leach back in. Lately I'm giving nutrified teas and fermented extracts.

But a short answer on the mulch, I'll completely till the bed every couple yrs and add more ammendments. It's coco based substrate and that's a(carbon) BROWN. Just gotta get the (Nitrogen) GREEN in there. It's always in a liquid form until I reammend.
 

myke

Well-Known Member
It's cypress mulch. There's bark within the substrate, but probably completely composted by now. Browns need Nitrogen to decompose and its my way of N regulation. Almost a failsafe against N toxicity. But because it pulls it from the soil I do have to add back.

I usually add pockets of dry amendments under the soaker lines to leach back in. Lately I'm giving nutrified teas and fermented extracts.

But a short answer on the mulch, I'll completely till the bed every couple yrs and add more ammendments. It's coco based substrate and that's a(carbon) BROWN. Just gotta get the (Nitrogen) GREEN in there. It's always in a liquid form until I reammend.
A different approach for sure,do you chop up your old stems, leaves and add them back?
 

McShnutz

Well-Known Member
Hey looking nice there. I’ve used very similar setups. The only thing I could possible suggest to you is getting your blusoak hoses under the mulch layer. Better yet if your planning on going full no till you really need a living mulch for bed longevity.
Great stuff though!
The main reason for the wood mulch now is because I haven't propagated a living one yet. It's certainly been on my mind latley!! Spot on advise man!!
Thanks.
And I'll take your advise also on the blusoak. I considered it when I installed the system but I was unsure of microbials possibly degrading the lines in time or clogging from biofilms accumulating. It's definitely worth a shot tho. I was think about going to the mega 2.0 blusoak anyways. I have some crazy ideas utilizing blusoak as the water delivery source and fabricating a SIP with a blumat Maxi as a controller.
 

McShnutz

Well-Known Member
And........... now the seedlings and clones are going into the flower tent. I've been intentionally starving and mistreating them with water deprivation. Just enough to stay alive. They look like their in need and I'm not going to transplant twice, so into the mix they go. Hand watered the seedlings yesterday to field capacity and the one damn near doubled in size and is now showing a K deficiency. Like I said, these little Fuckers are hungry. They'll get all they need now.
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Clones will be 30 days behind the moms.
Seedlings will be.... no idea how far behind. They have to reach maturity first. Plus I figure it's a good time to add them into the mix under the 1/2 compromised light. Don't want to beat them up right away with too much light. 20220303_100707.jpg
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Damn cat. Always sneaks in for a chance to hang with Dad.
 

McShnutz

Well-Known Member
Awesome, I found the power supply I need and it's comforting to know it's a mean well that carries a 7yr warranty. And I can shop it to them for any repairs if need be. This is a solid source. I'm getting antsy and I need another project. I'm deeply interested in building a lighting system.

I was watching Prof. Bruce Bugabee on YouTube. I have a much better understanding now of the importance of FR. The only thing I was aware of is the Emerson effect. But that only has an emphasis on putting the plants to sleep quicker and an earlier harvest window of about 7 days. However that's not the only benefit of FR. And it now has recomended inclusion for the entire light schedule because it widens the range of light spectrum where photosynthesis peaks. Also helps to increase PPFD so lights don't have to be ran as close or at full power.
I have UVB in my lights now, but UVA is where it's at and it won't degrade the THC.
 

McShnutz

Well-Known Member
Flower day 17.
Night shots.
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The smell in the air is really getting heavy now. What was sweet like Carmel and berries for the last week, is now turning really skunky with a rotten fruity banana hint that builds the longer your there.
Hands down, one of my favorite "anytime" strains.
 

McShnutz

Well-Known Member
Day 35 of 12/12
Day 21 of true flower

Not much happening with the daily checklist. Leaf analysis and monitoring hydrostatic pressure within the soil.

MBar is consistent. Target is 100, calibrated @ 89Mbar, +/- 7Mbar.

Leaf analysis shows slight burnt tips. That are (some, not all) elongated and turned up. The turned up part is an indicator that Potassium is very plentiful.
Tips that are not elongated with the upwards tip burn and are straight out like normal, indicate a sufficient nutrient level in general.

So I'm now aware that I have high K values and the plants have more than enough for the rest of the cycle. Clones and seedlings too. It's a good idea to keep an eye on Calcium but en excess of K can cause uptake issues for Magnesium.
Magnesium will be supplemental from this point forward. And a small amount of sulfur occasionally. I'll be top dressing a few pockets of Epsom salts/ EWC under the irrigation lines.

Some plants are Magnesium whores! Just the brakes. I'll be doing a soil analysis with reagents later today. Im positive I'm good on NPK, I'm just curious to see their values. That will confirm the molecular antagonistic actions I'm suspecting.

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I'm my past experience when the flower is so dense with white pistils, that you can barely distinguish the calaxy.... that's gonna be a super dense chunky ass flower when fully ripe.

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McShnutz

Well-Known Member
LAB is done. 2 days!!! I'm going to givebit 1 more day to firm up some of that curd. I should get a little bit more whey out of it.
Either way, 1 gallon of milk yielded ~1/2 gal of serum.
$2.99/ gallon of milk...... Wining! Nothing beats fresh, highly active LAB.

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