ttystikk
Well-Known Member
The biggest difference between HID lighting and LED lighting is the relative lack of infrared, aka radiant heat. You keep doing what you're doing it will work out fine.
New LED and new grow, gonna need some assistance here please.
- Thread starter gr865
- Start date
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
"Us"? Speak for yourself.Don't give us that old song and dance. @gr865 is a very accomplished grower who doesn't have these problems. That = THE LIGHT
Yes he can throttle it back and kinda band aid the situation but the peaky spectrum is the issue
Maybe less blather and more observation. Who knows? You might accidentally learn something.
OneHitDone
Well-Known Member
What he is doing is not working so keep doing the same thing?
@gr865 ,
#1 do you have some means of measuring your light intensity even if only a lux meter?
#2 what are your temps / humidity like?
#3 - the internet is full of opinions so you know the saying but here is mine:
You are adding WAY too much Epsom salt to your mix (Think Jacks 3-2-1). Your canna base is premium, and fully formulated so should not need anything with the possible exception of a dash of cal-mag if you are using RO (Can't remember your water source off hand)
I would drop the Epsom all together personally and use a minimal Cal-mag dose is your using RO. Then bring your EC up to the 1.4 by increasing the Canna A&B
You already have a solid watering strategy and drain to wast technique.
I have most all of my plants in soil now but ran this tent on nutrients just for a comparison on finished quality.
This is week 7 with a 1 Part Bottle Nutrient on tap water under LED.
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Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Its the light and your climate, what's the steady temp during lights on? It needs to be a bit higher than with HID, try 81-84, especially if you use high intensity. 70% of the scorpion is a lot of intensity; it's like about 700w of DE sodium which imho is a lot to give to small plants, especially when the temps are low which means they can't support the metabolism properly and that they won't drink enough. These problems are almost always due to not drinking enough, you need to up the transpiration.
Look at the second photo in this reply, it's not so much the defs that are telling it's the whole plant stance: they look saggy and not erect, like they aren't drinking enough. There's a trick to get led grown plants to transpire and it has to do with vpd: vapour pressure deficit. It's a compound of temps and rh which means hope much more "space" there is in the air for evaporated water before the air/water reaches the dew point. High vpd: air that "wants" to dissolve water. There are several threads around about this, I'd take it all as guidance rather than laws, you still have to read your plants to see how they're doing. Remember as well if thebvpd thread is old: numbers are related to leaf temperature which is generally lower with leds than hids; if you're getting hid numbers for your vpd then your not going to make it work, you'd need a bit higher temps.
Ttystik and ohd both makes some points but Im not sure if I agree with everything: keep going as your going; no I think you need to tweak your environment. The fact that you haven't mentioned it very much yet is a tell tale sign that this is where your problems might be starting cause it doesn't seem like your factoring it into the problems. Again: this is not a problem with ppms normally, it's a problem with not enough food being taken up due to low total drinking.
Ohd:" you have a solid watering strategy": uuhhh, I'm not sure if I've understood it correctly, are you watering a 3 gallon coco pot 3 times a day til run off with these plants? This is not something weve been able to make work and sounds like over watering. If you can make it work then all glory to you, but if your having problems in the grow, possibly related to transpiration, I'd go for another strategy. We only do auto watering if the plant can finish the water in the next 2 days and be dry. Weve gone hand watering til the end with 100 plants when dry times wouldn't cooperate. I know some are able to run coco like this with multiple watering but usually it's with much bigger plants which show strong's signs of optimal drinking. The second photo doesn't show any plant really with healthy drinking signs.
gr865
Well-Known Member
The tent temps are spot on to your suggestion, over the day the temps float between 80 and 84, with RH range over the day it 61 to 70%.
Plants are drinking well, before each cycle the pots are fairly lite with the exception of one of the regulars which has not been drinking well and I am hand watering it with extra Great White to help the roots establish better, then will put it on the automated system.
Plants are drinking well, before each cycle the pots are fairly lite with the exception of one of the regulars which has not been drinking well and I am hand watering it with extra Great White to help the roots establish better, then will put it on the automated system.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Then I'm out of advice except for lower intensity.
OneHitDone
Well-Known Member
Do you have a means of measuring the light intensity at the plants?
All of the charts I can find on the Diablo Scorpion are for Full Power which would put you at 30" + to canopy at this stage
OSBuds
Well-Known Member
gr865
Well-Known Member
Things are looking a bit better than earlier this week, lowered the light intensity to 60%, raised the lamps to 29 inches, and increased the cycle times to 45 secs to get adequate runoff.
Do believe it was my error for not calibrating the pH meter.
And I took @Rocket Soul 's advice and upped the fan blowing on the plants to aid in transpiration, although my humidity seem ok. The plants have responded some and the leaves are lifting up some, with the exception of the Critical which if a bit behind the others as far as leaf lifting, but they are improving.
Group shot
The Cookies and Cream regulars, be sexing them soon.
I am guessing that the taller plant on the right in front of the fan will be a male, the others are more squat and darker in color. Just my guess.
The Autos, Gelato in the front and the two Critical XL's are toward the back.
Do believe it was my error for not calibrating the pH meter.
And I took @Rocket Soul 's advice and upped the fan blowing on the plants to aid in transpiration, although my humidity seem ok. The plants have responded some and the leaves are lifting up some, with the exception of the Critical which if a bit behind the others as far as leaf lifting, but they are improving.
Group shot
The Cookies and Cream regulars, be sexing them soon.
I am guessing that the taller plant on the right in front of the fan will be a male, the others are more squat and darker in color. Just my guess.
The Autos, Gelato in the front and the two Critical XL's are toward the back.
gr865
Well-Known Member
Thanks Pin,
I am cleaning my compost bins this weekend, screening and storing. Going to make a general tea, (compost, molasses, some seaweed, and I am adding a few oz. of EM1.)
Yes, this is my first for Auto's, they were freebies, but researched and they are quality seeds.
Been looking at your grow, love it, wish I could do outside or greenhouse. My very first attempt at growing was in the early 70's on Lake Travis in Austin. My bud and I rented a place on the lake from the guy we bought our cannabis from. It had an attached green house, wow this pic is at least 48 yrs ago.
gr865
Well-Known Member
May try running 6 to 8 Autos next fall, if I can get the seeds I have looked at. There are some quality high THC auto strains.
gr865
Well-Known Member
Well one thing I have learned on this grow is keep you pot size consistent. I used three gallon fabric pots for the three Autos and two gallon for the 5 regulars. Too much hand watering.
I just did some minor defo and found this on the largest plant, was really expecting it to be a male but:
I just did some minor defo and found this on the largest plant, was really expecting it to be a male but:
gr865
Well-Known Member
Not much going on but they have cleared up since I calibrated my pH meter.
The Gelato Auto is still showing signs of the problem but it is improving.
The group,
The Cookies & Cream regulars, the one in the back is still a bit off color but looking better.
The Auto's, up front is the Gelato and the two Critical XL are in the back. All are at 42 days since emergence
.
The new light does not show true color of the plants.
Being new to Auto's I am not sure when to do any defo. I normally do the second defo of my fem's at day 42. Any thoughts on this guys/girls?
The Gelato Auto is still showing signs of the problem but it is improving.
The group,
The Cookies & Cream regulars, the one in the back is still a bit off color but looking better.
The Auto's, up front is the Gelato and the two Critical XL are in the back. All are at 42 days since emergence
.The new light does not show true color of the plants.
Being new to Auto's I am not sure when to do any defo. I normally do the second defo of my fem's at day 42. Any thoughts on this guys/girls?
gr865
Well-Known Member
This evening @ around 7pm I will be moving the C&C's to the back shop patio then will put them back in the tent at 7am tomorrow morning. Will do this till they show their sex. Then they go back in the tent to veg till the Auto's are ready. Will be taking cuttings to get me 8 to 16 good clones. Hope for 16 and do a semi SOG.
